Siezed collet removal

That brings back memories… and not good.

a grinder is no different…

What occurred is known as fretting. And what that is, is high speed vibrations that micro-welds the collet.

• The causes can come from;
  a poorly manufactured too
• poor installation of the tool (always clean the tool holder and collet before installing it)
• a bad collet
• etc..

the problem is, just replacing one item will not solve it, if a collet has micro-welds, it will pass it onto a clean tool holder, that can pass it onto a new collet, that passes it on and on…

when that happens, one can tap the collet or tool holder to break the micro-welds.

One should inspect you collet and tool holder before installing it.

Here’s an example of fretting, looks to be a BT tool holder… the collet it holds can happen also…

This was not fretting or cold welding,it was just rust.

Wiping off the collet shaft with cleaner revealed no pitting or fretting of the shaft.After cleaning and burnishing,the collet shaft is still free of frets,pitting or cold-welding however the nut is pitted,so I am replacing both just to be sure,even though I would have no qualms about reusing the collet if absolutely necessary.I think the Never Seize will prevent future problems of this sort.

I just wanted to suggest a method of removing hardened shafts,that are harder than tool steel.

Did you try beating on the OD with it resting on something solid--like a vise or anvil? The slight radial deformations might break it loose. Same with frozen nuts, but might have to use a hammer on both sides.

I got it off by using the Emory cloth and vise grips,as stated in my original op.I was simply passing along a tip about gripping very hard surfaces that are harder than tool steel.

A standard way of freeing-up nuts and bolts that have rusted in storage is to heat them up with the propane gun, and immediately drop them into a bucket of water.

A bit 'McGuyver', perhaps, though it does the trick.

I have done this on many things,but not on items surrounded by plastic.

This method is particularly useful on exhaust manifolds,or aluminum parts with steel setscrews,as the two metals have a different thermal expansion rate.

A particularly hard setscrew to remove was in a large 300hp fan,and was finally broken free by heating the aluminum fan hub,and then quenching it with freezing cold ice water.

The different expansion rates broke the bond and the screw finally was removeable.

This became a SOP for this type problems in the machine shop.

Exhaust bolts are very hard to remove because the bolts get very hard due to the repeated heat.cool cycling.They normally cannot be drilled with hss drill bits,must use carbide bits.

The use of the proper EZ out tool is important.The spiral type tend to expand the bolt making removal more difficult.I have found that the square tapered profile with cutting grooves on the sides does a better job without expanding the bolt very much.GM makes that type,and is the only type I use,even though I have plenty of the other type.

If you really want to make a assembly shake/vibration proof,drill a small hole with right hand threads in the bottom of the hole,and a larger hole with left hand threads in the top half of the hole.If either tries to loosen,it will be prevented by the other screw.Use a cup-point,serrated tip setscrew.

The holes should be appropriately sized to let the smaller set screw go through the large threaded hole.

↑(Of course,this ↑ is common sense,but common sense is so rare anymore,I wonder why the call it common?No offense intended,just trying to eliminate the obvious questions or comments that may follow).

This method is simply using a modified version of a method used by nature for millions of years in the cucumber vine.Half of the curls are clockwise,the other are counter clockwise.Pull on the curl,and one half loosens,and the other half tightens.

This also works when coiling up a hose or cord.

Reverse the winding direction about half way through,and it will prevent kinking when you unwind it.

You're welcome!

Common sense is the most fairly distributed thing in the world, for each one thinks he is so well-endowed with it that even those who are hardest to satisfy in all other matters are not in the habit of desiring more of it than they already have.

René Descartes

A variation is to get the nut red hot, then put the wrench to it. This temp apparently changes the ferric to ferrous--or the other way 'round, I get them mixed up--which takes up a bit less space and should let the nut move. but it may also destroy any heat treating on the original bolt or nut. Of course, as HTRN says, cannot be used near plastic, rubber, or similar materials.

Yes, a good idea. Also you can use emery cloth as a "washer" under the threaded collar used to clamp cutting discs in an angle grinder. Put the abrasive side against the disc and then the cloth backing goes against the collar. This makes it easier to undo.

The rusting of the collets comes from your fingers. You do the right thing by making sure the collet is clean when inserting but using your fingers to do this causes the rust. An old ( oily ) rag is "de rigeur."