Changing from 110/115 volt wiring to 220/ 230 volt wire set up?

Hello everett w.

You refer to a pair of diagrams, but do not actually show those diagrams, just some letters and numerals.

If you have a digital camara, please take photos of the diagrams, and upload here to your reply post, then perhaps we can make sense out of what you have.

Thanks for

Kind Regards....

this what i have to change to 220 volts

thank you for the help if you need more pictures i will sent more

once again thank you for the help

Hello again, everett w.

Thanks for the pics.

Could you send a larger one of the wiring diagram - the first picture, as my eyesight is not what it used to be.

Make that new picture a high definition one, and when you place it in the CR4 Text Editor Box, left click on it which should give you the "frame surround" of that picture, with a tiny box in each corner, plus one box in the middle of each side, and "placing your mouse on a right-hand corner box, left click and whilst holding that click down, pull with the mouse", on a tiny box of the "frame surround", in a right-hand corner, which should enlarge it as much as you can, and in proportion.

It's just that I can see the U, V, and Z, but cannot distinguish the 1,2,3 etc which are the smaller following sub-numbers.

I tried enlarging the picture here in a graphics viewer, but picture definition was poor and fuzzy, so I was no better off in trying to distinguish the sub-numbers.

I see you have 3 wires entering from the lower right in your second picture - two are blue (attached) and one is white, unattached.

Were these wires as supplied by the factory?

If those wires were supplied from the factory, were those wires marked?

If so, please advise the wire markings.

Also advise if those wires were attached, and which terminals they were attached to.

Please also advise where those wires run from - perhaps the power input cable? Advise please.

Appreciate your further advice.

Kind Regards....

Usually the diagram you need is printed on the inside of the switch cover It is not easy and almost impossible without the switch information. Good luck...Clint

It looks like the motor can be connected to run either forward or reverse.

The 110 volt configuration always has terminals U1 and V1 to one leg of the 110 volt power and terminals U2 and V2 to the other leg of the 110 volt power.

The connections to terminals Z1 and Z2 determine motor rotation direction.

With Z1 connected to U1 and V1, and Z2 connected to U2 and V2, the motor will run one direction. With Z1 conneted to U2 and V2, and Z2 connected to U1 and V1, the motor will run the other direction.

Addendum to last message:

Upon re-reading your request, I see you want to run the motor at 220 volts.

Connect 220 volt power to terminals U1 and V2.

Terminals U2, V1 and Z2 are jumpered together. (This puts the U1 - V1 winding and the U2 - V2 winding in series for 220 volt operation)

Terminal Z1 is tied to terminal U1 for one direction motor rotation and Z1 is tied to terminal V2 for the other direction of motor rotation.

Note: Winding U1 - U2 and winding V1 - V2 are wired in parallel for 110 volt operation.

As suspected, that creature is sold by Harbor Freight. www.harborfreight.com hunt for "milling machines" and you will see the picture you published. Click on it and you will get a full page on that device. Read closely and you will see "Print Users Manual". This will get you a PDF file of the manual. Digging through the manual, you will find a tech support phone number 1-800-444-3353. SKU 33686 might be of importance here.

Come back here if you need further help.

Bill

Dear Mr. Bill thank you for your help. First motor wireing has alway baffeld me? to many wires with the same colors. I do not why they do that. I must of had an old Harbor Freight page because it did not have any PDF's. i used your link and walla it has PDF's. i down loaded now have picture to work with along with all the advice from the other nice people on CR4. This is one very good web site. Lots on information my brain will be overloaded with all the new stuff.

i will put all the information together and go do it. Once again Thank you

Everett w. Corvalllis Oregon

I am going to go ahead and state the obvious question which is "Are you qualified or experienced enough to perform this electrical work?"

Perhaps you should get in an electrician or other suitable electrical person to perform this work safely. The last think you want is to either electrocute yourself, accidentally damage the machine or burn down the factory. If you are going to go ahead, at least remember to electrically isolate the machinery. Oh, and that blue object in the pictures looks like it may be a capacitor, so just be aware that some of the terminals could still be at a lethal voltage potential even with the mains supply disconnected.

Safety first.

Well, I am logged in, but it says above that I am not. Can you take a photograph of the terminals in the connection box? I cannot figure out what all the z2 u2 v2 ....etcetera stuff means. If I could see what the terminals look like, I could tell you how to wire it. --jerrymack

Hey come on, if the instructions are so unclear, you

SHOULD NOT BE CHANGING THE WIRING YOURSELF

your playing with 240VAC you connect it and kill yourself or an employee, what will you do then.

Go and get someone who knows what they are doing.

The instructions on the case are so clear, it shows as a diagram how the links should be arranged on the motor terminals, but as its not clear to you, all I can say is Please leave it to someone who knows what they are doing.

I don't know about 110VAC, but 240 is not to be played with, trust me IT HURTS..... alot (now if I can find the voltage to stop these damn shakes)

you are right i may not be qualified to change the wiring on this motor and switch control. If you are not willing to ask question where you are unsure you are not qualified to do the work. While it is true i have never been around motor to see what goes where. I am very aware of the dangers of electricity. I have had my share of hits. What i am trying to learn is after you switch the motor setting from 100 volts to the 220 setting. you need to remove the 110 cord and put on a 220 cord. where do the wires go on the 220 cord. the information i have gives no indication of where 2 hot wire would go.

looking at the control switch the 110 is jump at 13 to 5, & 13 to 15, & 15 to 3 white wire

the black 9 to 1,& 9 to 11,& 11 to7. it would appear that jumper wires from 9 to 1 and 11 to 7 need removed to add the second power line in. or maybe not?

i have made a drawing of the diagrams and visuals i have with the information from the MFG. still lacking something?

All the control wires stay the same except the white wire from the control switch is not hook up and insulated from contact. The solid jumper is moved from V2 to v1 then U1 is move to U2 and z2 that is understandable.

I have had the Milling Machine for over 4 years. It has never been pulged into power. Until i am sure it still will not be plugged in. I can run it on 110 but that is a waste of energy and horse power. Yes before I do put power, i will have a person with knowledge look see.

Thank you very much for you concerns as I also have them or I would not ask for help.

everett w

I have had the Milling Machine for over 4 years. It has never been pulged into power. Until i am sure it still will not be plugged in. I can run it on 110 but that is a waste of energy and horse power. Yes before I do put power,I will have a person with knowledge look see.

I DON'T KNOW WHERE YOU FOUND THIS OPINION...IT IS WRONG...YOU BUY WATTS FROM THE ELERCTRIC COMPANY...VOLTS TIMES AMPS EQUAL WATTS... SAME HORSE POWER EITHER WAY.............

110 VOLTS NEED TWICE THE AMPS TO EQUAL THE MOTOR WATTS CONSUMED ...NO MORE OR LESS ENERGY.

220 VOLTS NEEDS HALF THE AMPS.............TO EQUAL SAMO SAMO WATTS.

ONLY DIFERENCE IS IN WIRE/SWITCH SIZE TO CARRY THE AMPS.

SINCE THE 110 CORD/SWITCH IS DESIGNED TO CARRY MORE AMPS THAN THE 220 VOLTS TO SATISFY THE MOTOR AMPS NEEDED IT WILL BE LARGE ENOUGH WIRE/SWITCH..IF PROPERLY INSULATED RATED FOR 220 VOLTS...... TO CARRY THE LESSER...BY HALF.. THE AMPS NEEDED FOR 220 VOLTS.

NO NEED TO CHANGE THAT UNLESS GROUNDING (GREEN CORD) IS NOT INCLUDED IN THE CORD MATRIX. 110 VOLT PLUG WILL NOT WORK. DON'T EVEN TRY....

220 VOLTS WILL...ON SWITCHING ON/OFF... ARC MORE BUT START MOTOR QUICKER ....MAYBE RUN WITH A LITTLE LESS HEAT....BUT WILL NOT "COST MORE" AS THE WATTS ARE THE SAME

PLEASE PAY ATTENTION TO THE SAFTEY CONSIDERATIONS EXPRESSED IN THE OTHER REPLIES.

A 220 VOLT CORD NEEDS FOUR CONDUCTORS. A 220 VOLT SWITCH HAS TWO "HOT" TERMINALS SO EXISTING SWITCH MAY NEED CHANGING IF YOU ARE DETERMINED TO PROCEED.

RECOMENDATION...

WHY CHANGE ANYTHING...,THE PAST LIMITED AMOUNT OF USE INDICATES YOUR REASON FOR CHANGE IS YOUR BELIEF THAT THERE IS SOME ECONOMIC BENEFIT INVOLVED...NOT TRUE....LEAVE IT 110...USE WITHOUT CHANGE. THE ELECTRICITY COMES THROUGH THE SAME METER AT 110 VOLTS OR 220 (SINGLE PHASE) VOLTS....ALL THE METER READS, ALL YOU PAY FOR, IS WATTS NO MATTER HOW YOU CONNECT.

MR. GUY

Dear Mr Guy and Bill

Thank you for the straight answers. I will put the 110 volt wire setting back in play. I was under the oppinion that 220v had more horse power. I was not real concerned about the energy cost. As any time you turn any thang on it cost money.

As for the wire size I ran 2 stranded rom-ex # 8 with ground to the area i am working in. Plus a #12 wire rom ex on its own circurt breaker. Most all of the wiring circuits are on there own breaker with no more than 2 outlets. except the lights are on 14 gage with breakers of there own. I will run another #10 gage decated to this machine. I may conceder pull a leg off of the #8 gage 220v circuit because its there. I will ask my local electrical supplier if the breaker will trip if over loaded if not a new wire. I have a spot welder i can use at this location also was why i ran the 220 wire there. I am not big on overloading a circurt as that cause more problem than the cost to run the wire.

Way to many lost home, businesses and life's do to over loaded circurts. Danger lurks in the back ground of our lives, unseen and waiting.

Thank you for the help. For my own education i will still pursue how to hook up the 220 volts to switch and motor. Not that i will ever use this. Some knowledge is dangerous, a lot of knowledge is useful. Know where the rocks are before you jump.

I do appreciates your help. Everett W.

Everett...

Actually, converting the mill to 220 volts is NOT going to save you anything in terms of power or efficiency UNLESS the machine draws close to 20 amps. For example, I have a 110 volt air compressor which runs close to 20 amps. If I HAVE to run it with an extension cord, I have to use a 10 awg cord, otherwise I blow the breaker. The loss in a smaller cord does not allow enough power for the motor to start. My 10 gauge cord is 100 feet long and I have no problems using it.

Back at power though, it looks like you draw 17 amps at 110 volts which equals 1870 watts. At 220 volts, you draw 8.5 amps which equals 1870 watts. It is all and the same.

I assume that your electrical outlets are wired with 12 gauge wire and are on 20 amp breakers. So long as the mill is the only thing running on that circuit, you should have no problems. If you have a bunch of other equipment running on the same circuit, you may run into problems. I do if I have the compressor on the same circuit as the fridge (for example).

You will probably have to change your power cord to a 220 volt type. I ASSUME that you will find red and black wires which are hot. You might find a white wire which is neutral and may or may not be used. and of course Green is Ground. Another thought is that if you have any lamps on this mill, you might need to change them to 220 volts. If I were doing this from scratch, I would probably run a 20 amp 220 volt circuit from the breaker box, and appropriate 20 amp outlet. Of course I don't know what your setup is in Corvallis.

Anyhow, you now have my 2 cents worth. Have Fun!!

Bill

Oh YES!! I forgot about the power switch!! Your power switch is probably single pole-single throw. Because you NOW have two hot wires, you need to replace the switch with a double pole switch so you switch both hot wires off. Otherwise even with the switch OFF you still have a hot machine which can zap you. It might work switching only one side, but this IS a safety issue.

Bill

Ok, to tell someone who knows what they are doing,

Tag and remove the 110V cord (generally people would just remove the plug and replace with new plug)

Insert new cord in the place where old one was removed from.

Assuming your talking 3-PH here.

Reconfigure the jumpers on the motor terminal block to match the diagram on your inspection cover

after connection of new wiring, resistance check (with plug in pocket of your pants) from A1->E and A2->E and A3->E should be high resistance.

placing plug in pocket removes the ability of anyone else picking up the plug and inserting into power outlet, also so you know its safe, just be careful when you kneel down that the plug doesn't stab you in the leg.

But as you don't know what your doing, you didn't read the above :P

Grrrr...

Ok, your switch is converting the terminals for reversal of the motor, those terminal locations are different when your running the motor as 220V supply,

under 110V supply (assuming CW is 1st and CCW is 2nd)

Terminals are as follows (110V)

L1 -> Z2, U1, V1 L2 -> U2, V2, Z1 (CW)

L1 -> U1, V1, Z1 L2 -> U2, V2, Z2 (CCW)

for 220V operation the terminal setup is different, so the switch will have to be re configured

L1 -> U1 L2 -> V2, Z1 Link -> V1, U2, Z2 (CW)

L1 -> U1, Z1 L2 -> V2 Link -> V1, U2, Z2 (CCW)