hydraulic oil

Thank You for a quick responce to my question.

So once, I had a hydraulic jack which was void of oil. I used ATF as it was the lightest grade available (and I had it). Was that a bad idea?? And of course this leads to another interesting concept.

Back in the olden days, with an automatic transmission, if we didn't have ATF, we used 5W oil. Today they have NOT ATF but Dexron, DexronII, ATF + 3... 4... Why can we not have a standard which all can use? Now of course in the standard transmission in my truck, they recommend "engine oil" so I don't have to worry about 90w or whatever. I love it!!

ATF oil is quite a bit different from engine oil. In standard transmissions, the oil is only to lubricate the gears, but in an Automatic, the oil is used in a torque converter and therefore it's viscosity stability, it's resistance to foaming, material compatibility with the clutch pack materials are all important. Unless you just like spending money on your mechanic, use what the manufacturer tells you to use.

I've never tested Jack oil but my guess is that it does not contain as many additives as would be required for a fluid used in a tractors system. Can you use your tractor oil in your jack?.. sure, but it might eat your seals. Can you use your jack oil in your tractor?... I doubt it but why would you, it costs much more.

A good quality jack oil has been subjected to a vacuum to remove dissolved gases just prior to packaging. Dissolved gasses contribute to corrosion and also cause "spongy" or "springy" performance under maximum loads.

Instrumentman36, Another reason that there are so many different fluids used in transmissions and engines can be summed up in two words: proprietary content. Manufacturers make their products so that one must buy their solutions or risk failure of the expensive machine.

Create a need then fill it.

Dragon

Use proper oil in your tractor- any oil can be used in hydraulic jacks- even sump oil- my father never had any probs over many years & neither have I- it should be remembered that iggerent people will throw out their jacks when oil leakage past the seals renders the jack inoperative- simply top up the oil & away you go! (might have to drill a hole in body to add, then seal with a screw or even wood plug).

You are right been there and done that. had to drill and thread wall to except threated bolt and seal. Thanks

The Oil in a Hydraulic jack (I see a rolling floor or bottle type) does not have to stand up to as much heat nor is it as resistant to foaming. The Hyrdrauc fluid in a tractor is run through a much higher spped pump (think, centrifical, rotary piston) than a jack (think your right arm and the end of a pipe stuck in a piston pump).

As a matter of thought here: API rating is a pretty good reference to changing from one kind of oil to another.

Example: In the U.S. API standards set for autos is based on a 500 mile circle with Columbus Ohio at the center. It is where 60% of all cars driven in U.S. are. Ford for example will tell you to use a 0W20 weight oil in the engine, which is really the best for that car in a 4 season area. Now if you take that same car and drive in Southern Arizona year round, the engine life is cut due to high heat and friction. Solution, change to a different grade of oil that reflects the driving conditions using API standards chart.

Heavy equipment calls for hydraulic oil ISO32 or ISO68 which is a 10 weight oil and a 30 weight oil. The oil from the manufacture has a API standard.... Often, you can replace the hydraulic oil with a 15W40 engine oil where the API rating matches. (Big savings) Cat equipment does not have major issues with this practice as well as other manufactures.

Transmissions on the other hand can fall into the same group. Scheer is important for the clutch packs in automatic. Again, reference the API standard.

Nearly all seals will survive a change if you play by the rules. Does not matter if is a bottle jack or a million dollar machine. Play by the rules, standards to application and things keep on working as normal.

On a personal note, my auto calls for 5W30 oil. I use 15W40. The morning is cold,(15w) and the afternoons are HOT, (w40). With 200,000 miles on my little 6 cylinder it is very good condition and will certainly run another 200,000 miles if I keep it that long.

NOTE: "Most" 15W40 oils have very high detergent. Changing to 15W40 with high mileage will take the seals out of the engine. (IE: detergent) If you are unsure to make a change, stop at 10W40, detergent levels are lower.

How good is any oil for your engine? Oil in it's refined state is clear like baby oil. It only changes color and ratings, when the additives are added. The lighter the oil, the poorer quality it is for your engine. The darker, the more addatives....

Refer to the API standards before you make a change.

Liquid displaces. Us baby oil in your Bootle jack if you want to. It might even smell good...

Regarding the "baby oil" in the bottle jack suggestion. Baby oil is usually hydroscopic (absorbs moisture) if not completely water soluable. In any case the interior of your bottle jack would rust away in a short time if filled with baby oil.

Mineral oil would be a better substitute, however unless corrosion inhibitors were added, you could expect a shortened life for the jack.

you are correct. to the point, liquids displace. we agree with einstein in the fact we should not plan to fail. however when there is a problem, there can be a solution. even if it is not a lasting one.

In my experience, the use of a high detergent oil after many miles with normal oils is unwise. The reason is that some sludge is present on surfaces incl seals- remove this sludge & oil leaks past seals may occur- the other reason is that this removed sludge, now in circulation, may block oil filters, resulting in bypass operation & increased wear. The reason seals fail is usually cracking of the seal material, in a modern ice, which run hotter & are physically smaller than past generations. In past ice with leaking seal, we could add seal swell- this worked if seal was sound, & made of neoprene- obviously, did nothing for rope type seals!. B/r, Neil.