Pumps Getting Too Hot

If the pump uses packing there should be a small leakage. People often tighten the gland too much because they don't realize this.

From the field: put your amp probe one of the pump leads, start the pump, make sure rotation is correct and start closing the discharge valve slowly. As you close the valve you may find that the pump was trying to pump to much water causing to run off the end of it's pump curve. Position the valve in the sweet spot for amps...the lowest amp draw that you can get. Let us know what you find. I am certain if this does not help you following PWSLACK'S check list will solve it.

Mike

Agree. Your pump and motor are probably not matched.

I'm not a pump guy but I've seen this happen one time too many. Someone decides to increase the pump capacity but forgets to change the motor size.

Your pump wants to push more water and demanding more power from the motor. Motor draws more current and eventually either trips or burns out.

miketheboilerguy's suggestion will work. By throttling the outlet valve, you effectively lower the pump's capacity resulting in less power requirement. Of course, it results in less flow. I'd prefer to have the motor changed to match the pump.

I'm not discounting PWSlack's suggestions, however, as they could also be probable.

thank you all for your advice it is all wealth,

put i have to tell that the pump doesn't show any signs of cavities, or vibrations

which to me means good alignment, seal,and even nice coupling

is that means may i have an electric problem only?

One more action added to all suggested checks:

- uncouple the motor and ckeck the amp. If motor operating uncoupled has no any truble should have about 30% amp from nominal value.

Hope this help

hello i am khaled

pump getting hot

you can try to test the chek valve

If there is no additional load being applied to the motor then its likely that your motor windings are going bad. The wire used in the windings are coated with a thin layer of insulation and when it begins to break down it allows some current to flow to ground.

At this point it is not a complete short to ground since the motor still runs. It would be a high resistance short to ground.

This condition is easily checked with a megohm meter, but it cannot be checked with a regular ohmmeter. The megohm meter puts a high DC voltage across the winding when measuring the resistance.

another check you could do

1-Check for adequate ventilation. Be sure motor vent holes (or fan blades) are free of obstructions.
2- Use a shorter or heavier gauge extension cord.

thank you all for your help,

i found the problem,

the motor was miswires, and when we rewire it correctly,

it works fine and we never have such problem again

thank you all

Well, billybolbol, I'm glad you've found the cause of your pump motor problem.

Note, however, that nobody mentioned it as a possibility. I guess it's because it's not easy to miswire a motor. I hope your motor technician or electrician has learned his lesson.

he is very experienced person a lot of knowledge,

but hey...every body makes mistakes

thank you again

From the field: If one of my Tech's had wired the motor and it burnt up my company would have been responsible for it's replacement. The installer may have talent but he has zero follow-up. An amp draw check after would have caught the problem. You are very lucky the motor did not burn up.

Its a good thing this was not a 200hp critical application.