Thursday Challenge

A single switch mounted on the top floor and a loooong string connected to it trailing down the flights of stairs?

That might work for turning it off but how ya gonna turn it back on ?...

An electronic flip-flop changes state with every positive incoming pulse.

The least significant leg of a counter can be used for a signal to switch the light.

Sorry this was attached to the wrong post.

There are common fixtures with pull chains.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?sitex=10026:22372:US&item=5542

This one has an outlet so you can have the stereo system turned on when you get up there. Something by Lighthouse?

See #8 below for one option. Or for other types of switches a loop of string and pulleys.

Help I just started a fire on the second floor by attempting a 16 way hall switch.

I don't know if this would be simple enough.

Use a flip flop on the top with 2 cables going down with a push button on each floor.

A push of any button Will flip the flop. the next button press will flop the flip again.

1 Wireless switch

1 Wireless transmitter

The "Clapper" and HUGE HANDS

Shouldn't that read:

"1 Wireless switch

16 Wireless transmitters"

?

(The other lighthouse keeper may have the dongle if there's only one, or it could get lost. Safest to have 16, with one nailed to the wall on each floor)

That's just too basic! Is there a twist in it somewhere?

A linear bar run the top to bottom of all sixteen floors hooked to one switch.

with a lever at each floor to push it up and down.

One of these with very long string

Two long rubber hoses attached to an air-pressure operated mechanism that operates the switch, much like the driveway dingers used at old service stations. (Boy, I just dated myself with that statement!) One hose is for on, the other is for off. This will require strong arms to press down on the hose to generate enough pressure change to operate the mechanism. Only bodybuilders need apply.

I'd put a TV remote control on each level and a receiver and relay at the light fixture.

This assumes the center of the building is open with line-of-sight to the receiver.

If there is not line of sight then a radio transmitter on each level with a radio receiver and relay at the light fixture.

If that is too expensive I would probably station a monkey at each level that could be dispatched to turn on or off the light at the top.

Okay, I'm the crude, old-fashioned button and relay kinda guy.

A DPST relay, 16 normally open SPST push button switches, 16 normally closed SPST push button switches, and 4 wires from top to bottom of the lighthouse is what is needed.

One pole of the relay controls the light, the other pole latches the relay. The normally open switches are in parallel with the latching pole of th relay, the normally closed switches are in series with the relay coil.

When a normally open switch is pressed, the relay closes and latches, and the light comes on. When the normally closed switch is pressed, the relay opens and the light goes off.

The best part is the wiring floor to floor and the switches can be low-voltage and small.

Probably there is a better solution, but this is one that I could do

Hello DCad

I also came up with that before reading posts.

Cheers....Codey

Good solution - one relay on the top floor and two pushbuttons per floor is pretty economical. I do see a problem with the 16 off buttons. If any of the 16 failed, the whole thing fails and troubleshooting is difficult. I suggest a second relay on the top floor, with a n.c. contact to keep the light on. Use the off switches in parallel to actuate this relay, and drop the light on relay.

That's a better solution, I think. Having all those NC buttons in series would be a practical problem ... sort of like the OLD Christmas tree lights ... PITA to find the bad one.

AND, the parallel switches would be much easier to wire.

THAT'S how collaboration works, Friend

Thanks,

A 1 button panel from Dynalite on each floor, cabled with looping Cat 5 FTP and a relay pack of theirs to turn the light on or off. You mean the main lighthouse light right? How many amps? Dynalite 'switches' use RS 485 as the carrier for Dynet instructions so you can specify what a button press, hold etc does. www.dynalite-online.com You can parallel the relays to switch 240 amps or more.

Two three-way switches one at the top and one at the bottom. Between them place a four-way switch on each floor, as many as you need. Run 4 conductor cable from switch to switch. Connect.

I do admire all the fun ideas offered though...

1 for bottom, 1 for top and 1 deviator for each floors. Run 3 line neutral included.

okay?? waiting comments...

Please explain the operation of the system. It appears that toggling any switch will toggle the light - but how does the operator know if he is turning the light on or off?

i think we have two option:

i-A version of the deviator switch that has a led indicator whether there is voltage between switch-pins or not.(if V=zero then lamp is on, at least for the switch that you toggled).

ii-Calling a child and arming he/she with a wolkie-tolkie!

(absolute solution...)

Thanks LG Dave...

Toggling is not the real problem with this diagram.This quick cooked meal seems not nutritive!

It will be better to work on more... Excuse me!

Your diagramme was basicly on the right track. However your intermediate switches (floors 2-15) have to toggle from parallel (straight through each side) to crossover (connects through to the opposite side). Other than that it works fine for me.

Thanks Guest, I also tried the form what you told but it is fail after third switch that we toggled.

I work as an apprentice with an electrician in 5 or 6 floor buildings installing this type circuits when i was young. Now after solving tens of scada problems, this basic problem cames on my table as a challenge... I can't believe that i can not remember any trics!

I try to solve this problem with minimum count of line as we do those days but!!!

Yes this is a good challenge especially experienced guys like me. We must not forget anything!

I cant see it working.

The light is off in your sketch.

The one on the left can by no means get the light to go on.

Ok he may hit the ceiling with a broomstick signaling the next floor to try something. (sound operated light)

you are right Hendrik...

I foud what's problem with this diagramm after a good sleeping.

Problem lies in representing of the legacy electrical components called "deviator" that i used them at each floor. After renewing the shematic everything will find their way:

This will work now by me... awaiting comments. Thanks.

Assuming this is the switch for the beacon, I would guess that a contactor could be a good choice. Not knowing the voltage or amp draw I drew this up--Certainly wouldn't be cheap, but would be simple and dependable.

Premise that the supply for the lamp is present and doesn't count. 4 wires(control voltage) 1 wire for stop/maintain, 2 wires for start and 1 neutral for the indicator lamps(top to bottom or bottom to top).

Yes, Kilgore Trout...

This is a working solution with state indicators.

Pull switch for locking and push it again to unlock the main relay. We can not decrease line-count below 4 if an indicator is "must".

my solution uses 3-line but it has no indicator. If we add an indicator per floor then we have to use addititional -forth- line.

Thank you Feridun--But I still prefer the "Clapper"--You know "Clap on, Clap off".

If one would be entitles me for polling I would prefer the Jim's wireless solution or your clapper(they are the same kind of solutions). Who count of at which floor he is. They are simplest solutions because each uses minimal workforce!

Dear Sir.

I fully support your basic-Circuit, with one over-look in drawing that floor-15 & 14

should be extended as below before giving break dots.

Weldone feridun.

In only 2 positions SPCO are used

Tn the case of 3 or more positions, 1st & last have SPCO switches while all the intermediate positions

<< switches (floors 2-15) have to toggle from parallel (straight through each side) to crossover >> ***

[*** Thanks Guest #21 for well defined language usage ]

Dear Haajee,

I tried many combinations even altering circuit so as you think but i have not been able make it work. Switches work good for one of command, say to light down but you can not light up via toggling another switch. Then i construct the circuit #26.

I'm confused now,and will try more...

Thanks...

I have another solution

All that is required on each floor is a XOR gate and a toggle switch, V+ , ground and light on signals must be supplied from the top.

Te truth table of a XOR id

T T = F

F T = T

T F = T

F F = F

On each floor the toggle is used for the one XOR signal in while the out XOR signal of the previous floor is used as the other incoming signal.

The V+ signal is used on the first floor as the incoming signal.

If we start with all the toggles open the output of all the floors will be on

Any floor can now switch it off by flipping the (rotary) toggle switch.

say floor 4 switches the signals on all floors above him will be off.

Any floor can switch it on now

say 3 - will turn the input to 4 off but the output above 4 will be turned on again.

Say 7 - the output above 7 will be on again.

Satisfied?

we are using xor as a zeroing / toggling instrument. I'm sure this will work. And we have to use at least 3-line if want to realize but indicators!

I'm tired out through playing with that long string....
And who ever asked how do you know if the light is on?
Didn't they think of looking up?

Del

You are very much right..

Have Electroman not finished his coffee and cigar?

A 3-way switch on the first and the top floors, with 4-way (2 pole polarity-reversing) switches in series in the two runners between the 3- way switches located on each inter floor (2-15).

4 way switches on every floor.

each 4 way switch will simply switch the polarity

You want your 'hot' going through the switches that way when the light is off, there is no voltage at the fixture! It's a safety thing! Also a '4 way switch' at the top or bottom will, if used to turn off the light will render all the other switches inoperative because you have opened the circuit at that switch! It needs to be a two way to keep the continuity of the circuit!

Easiest way to do it is a four core wire to the top! Ground floor you have a two way switch, floors 2 to 15 have intermediate switches and the top floor has another two way switch! If you ever work in singles then this is a basic circuit you learn in the first few days on site!

Other posters have said something on the lines of this! This is the easiest form of installation without any fancy gadgets! It is modular too! If a switch breaks, change it! So simple even Vermin could do it!

Right about the hot! By the time I realized it, it was too late to change. Bsically swap the hot and return in my diagram

The 4 ways at the top or bottom will not make the others inoperative. A 4 way will only swap the outputs and not truly open the cct.

If the top is in this mode then there will be no way to complete your circuit!

Then the light will be off. Switch any switch it will be on.

It does not matter which contact is used on the last switch

Corrected diagram

I've just noticed you have your neutral going to the switch aswell! Sorry for being so quick to dismiss your circuit! Yes, it will work!