Plumbing - Water Leak

Hello Conrads

Do you have a turn-off valve anywhere in the house, or after that concrete slab.

If so, turn it off and check the water meter.

If you are in an apartment, or shared residence and your meter is still turning, it is possible that another residence is using water which is metered via your meter.

To check that, turn off any valves in that shared residence, check the meter again.

If the meter is still turning, disconnect your pipeline on the downstream (outlet), side of the meter, and replace with a solid plug.

Check the meter. If still turning, the meter is faulty, and should be replaced by your water supplier, who should test it, and give you some sort of refund for the mis-charging of unused water as "measured" by the faulty water meter.

OK, you have tried all above, and still no obvious cause: Then you probably have a corrosion hole or crack in your pipeline after the meter.

You don't advise the nature of your soil, and it is common for a long-term underground water leak to seep rapidly underground with no leak evident on the surface.

If you have a leak underground, see if you can replace that under-slab pipe with an above-slab supply pipe.

If you are unable to replace with an above-slab pipeline, there is no alternative.

You would need to then replace that under-slab pipe with another.

If your pipe is steel, you may be able to use metal detecting equipment to locate the pipe run below the slab.

Your concrete, at 300mm thick, must be an airport or roadway, or used by heavy trucks and machinery.

If so, cutting through the slab is going to be slow and expensive, thus best to try everything possible, before resorting to digging up the slab.

Here in Auckland, New Zealand, where houses were built over volcanic scoria, people have had quarterly water bills of $80,000 and more, when their supply pipe cracked or broke, they still had water in the house, but hundreds of millions of gallons of water vanished into the porous strata, with no evidence of any leaks above their concrete driveways.

The unfortunate and unknowing "water wasters" had to pay off the enormous water bills, because the massive leaks had occurred on the outlet side of the water meter.

Advise your progress (or lack thereof) with

Kind Regards....

Hi Sparks. Nope, there is no turn-off valve except the one by the meter itself. All the piping runs in the soil with the slabs of concrete on the top. So I would imagine the pipes run about 500 to a meter in the soil. Now I don't know soil but I can tell you everything grows mighty fine in it. Not clay. You see, when they build this place you could get to all the piping with minimum of digging. Soil nice and soft. But then someone went and poured concrete walkways all around the house. Then another slab was put on top of that one and then paving was put on the last slab. A huge mess. Looks nice though. Now comes the water leak and everything is sealed in shut. So I was hoping for some way of listening where the leak is exactly and only breaking the slabs there. I have already isolated the outbuildings from the main house, so the leak is not there. Must be somewhere around the main house. I had a tap and piping installed about a year ago very near to the municipal meter as I did not have a front garden tap and needed a connection point for my irrigation system. The plumber that did the job said that the pipes don't look to hot, rusted and corroded. The piping is galvanised steel 15mm or 1/2". Now I was thinking - as I am writing this - maybe the damn leak is where he was working. At least there is no concrete to fight with. I would still like to be sure though before you just start digging up the garden. I want to pull the hair out of me skull.

This may sound like a strange question. Do you have steel pipe connected to copper pipe anywhere in the house ? I heard about this as a child and I'm not sure, but it sounds the same. You may be causing electrolysis. Water passing through the steel pipe builds up an electric charge and pokes little holes in the coper pipe. Can be vary hard to find. You might try a stethoscope with a small aluminum rod to listen through. You should be able to hear through the slab.

That animated meter is fantastic,

I was thinking is it possible to tap into the main water line and put in a dye or extra hot water then maybe a thermal camera can pick up major leakes.

Mind you this is a very common problem that cost thousounds of for the averege home owner.

If a positive way of exact detection can be found one would make a killing.

let's all brain storm there must be a way.

company's use sound equipment but if the leaking pipe is covered with an outer protective tubing then it makes it pretty darn imposable.

Guys we can do this.

Hi Conrads

Rust on the unprotected treads of the galvanized pipe are the cause of many leaks. (I had a leak in the warm water side of the piping inside a 9" cavity wall. The result were a conglomeration of fittings to replace joints around a leaking T piece)

It might be better to forget about looking for the leak and just replace the piping.

Because of the paving and slabs you may have to reroute or place the new piping above ground.

Go to the suppliers and have a look at copper or plastic. The branch of the supplier I wanted to recommend are closing down to make way for the GauTrain.

Fortunately you are not in the dolomite area and the possibility of sinkholes are much less.

Hello again Conrads

If your township is large, there should be a Contractor who uses "Underground thrusting" machinery.

This system uses a machine which bores a 4 inch diameter hole, underground, or in your case under the slab.

The thrusting machines are extensively used for installation of gas pipes, cables etc.

Refer: http://www.astecundergroundohio.com/new-equipment.html

Cut a hole in the slab, by the house wall, or dig a pit in a garden adjacent, and the operator of the boring machine has an assistant who walks along with a sensor and is able to advise the machine operator exactly where the boring head is, on a continual basis.

The operator is able to "steer" the boring head, so it arrives in the pit you excavated in the garden, or adjacent to your house.

Once the boring head arrives, tie a rope to it, pull in heavy cross-linked alkathene piping.

If you want some insurance, pull in a 2 inch alkathene, with a 3/4 inch alkathene inside it. Use the larger outer pipe as mechanical protection.

Connect that, tidy up, pay the boring machinery operator.

No wrecking of your concrete.

Thrusting time is less than 1 hour, if operator knows what he is doing.

Hope that assists you.

Kind Regards....

Hi Sparky

Welcome back, we have missed you.

First check all your toilets and appliances that use water. A leaky valve in the reservoir tank on the toilet will cause water to continuously run into your toilet then down the drain.

Leaks may also go undetected in dishwashers, washing machines, humidifiers, hot water heaters, or refrigerator ice makers.

Also check all taps, inside and outside.

I subscribe to "The last person that touched it screwed it up" school of repairs. At least look at the newly installed piece of plumbing. The first step though should be to shut off ever shut off valve in the house. Toilets can often leak so slowly and quietly that it is hard to find. To ease the problem, drop some food coloring in the tank. if you find the color running into the bowl, the flapper valve is leaking.

Are your plumbing connections under the slab? Would it be possible to run a new line above, and drop down to the fixtures?

If you have a valve at the meter, you can turn it off and then install one inside the house. Once this is done, you can isolate the service piping from the house piping. If the leak is in the service pipe(the one between the meter and the house) you now can decide to replace the entire service or try to locate the leak. If your dealing with galvanized steel that is more than 25-30 years old, I'd recommend not trying to locate the leak. You will likely spend more time and effort than it would take to just do the replacement.

If you find that the leak is on the house side of the now valve then you have basically the same decision, however, it gets a little more difficult to decide whether the hassle of a complete replacement is better or worse than trying to isolate and repair the leak. Isolation and repair is a dicey situation which, if you don't know exactly where the lines are run, is kind of like poke and hope. An experienced plumber who is familiar with your particular area would definitely be a help. He may cost a bit , but will likely save you looking in places you don't need to, and with 12" (300mm) of concrete to go through you're going to want to minimize your penetrations. Either way, it's going to be a job. One thing to consider is the likelihood of another leak occuring once this one is fixed. If you just do the repair and the rest of your system is of the same age and material then you may want to consider the longer term benefits of a substantial investment now. I would suggest relocating any underground supply piping above ground, if possible, or replacing it with poly if you decide it's better to leave the system underground.

Try turning off the water at the meter then rig you a way to connect a air compressor to the line in the house. Then run the air compressor. I hope you use one that has an adjustable pressure guage.

I found a water leak that way using a doctors stethoscope and remove the end replacing it with a big nail which I was able to stick down in the ground. I found a water leak 12 feet below ground because the air made a bubbling sound in the water that it had been leaking very slowly.

Your municiple water people have an instrument that can detect the leak location. I believe it's woking on sound location.

Ask Carl is on the right track. Google "underground leak detection equipment", I did and came up with this site - http://irc.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/ui/bu/leakdetect_e.html

My Grandaddy used to say, " When you walk through the pasture and find yourself surrounded by cow dung, you don't keep walking in it, you head to the nearest fence". Replace the pipe!

It is highly unlikely that a steel pipe laid in concrete will corrode or crack

Therefore you can assume the pipe in the concrete slab is ok

The pipe will crack at a point where there is ground movement ie at the edge of the slab

If the slab has been poured in different pours (half at a time) differential settlement may occur between the 2 slabs and fracture the pipe

If the slab has cracked then the pipe could be damaged there

My experience is that steel pipe will corrode faster if it touches concrete.

Hello dadw5boys

Much faster corrosion, if the steel pipe is galvanized and embedded directly into concrete which is below grade, or always damp.

Then you have imperfections in the galvanized coating, and all those little battery cells, fizzing away 24/7 eventually eating holes through the pipe.

Kind Regards....

Had a similar thing years ago - a mystery water leakage.

Turned out to be an overflow pipe from the loft tank; which
drained quietly away. Some of these overflows are not obvious.

I would strongly advise you check all overflow outlets before
breaking any concrete. It's easier and cheaper !

Hope this helps.

jt.

In God we trust; everyone else pays.

Carl is right, the devices the the water companies have use sound to locate the leaks, it would be great if you could borrow one. Dadwith5boys suggested a stethoscope, I wonder if a mechanics stethoscope would work? they are cheap enough to try although it would mean a lot of crawling around.

We received a note from our local water board saying that we had unusually high consumption rate for a normal household. We turned all taps off and still meter was ticking over at about 6lt per minute. Called Plumber who checked out around house. No leak. Looked at drive way and small damp spot was noticable. Had been raining recently so was had to notice before. Plumber got on stomach and put his ear to the ground and heard the leak. It was in the exact middle of our driveway (what luck). Got a contractor in with acoustic sensing equipment , pinpointed leak, cut out hole 1/2 metre by 1/2 metre and replaced the copper pipe section with PVC. Job done within 24hours. Cheaper in long run if you pay for good service. If you wait too long it could be very expensive. Good Luck

Thx everyone for the input. I have received some good info that I will try. I think I will try and get hold of a stethoscope aswell. Luckily my mate is a doc so he should have an old one lying around. Imagine me, crawling around in the garden and on the paving listening for water leaks. It will just look funny.

Thx again. And if all else fails, I will get a plumber.

Regarding your cost, you can estimate the amount the leak is costing you by calibrating the movement of the meter with your wrist watch. It is likely that you would be amazed at how great the cost is for a small leak.

Regarding the work that was done by the plumber last year, that should be the first thing you eliminate, before you spend any more money.

Noting your location (do you get hard freezing there?), you might consider digging test holes (little wells) equally spaced around the foundation and extending down, say, a foot or two below the slab footing. Post hole digger should do the trick; try to make holes of more or less equal depth (elevation). Then wait and check the holes after several hours (up to a few days). Look in the holes for water standing; or feel for wetness of bottom and walls of the holes. Wherever the most standing water appears, or greatest moisture is found, that will be the hole (or holes) nearest to the point of leakage. (Please note: If you find moisture, say, on opposite sides of the slab; or if the water collection patterns doesn't seem to make sense, that could be an indication of multiple leaks . . . or perhaps an old, failed shut-off valve that was "paved" over during that slab re-pour you mentioned earlier.

I had a similar problem with under-soil bursted water pipe. Having no ideas where the pipes ran, and seeing soil saturation and pooling all around the house, I simply did a "survey" with a stick, poking the soil in a pattern around the house. At what seemed the soggiest and wettest soil location, I due . . . straight down to the ruptured pipe.

Of course, your situation is more problematical under a slab. I sense that even if you can localize a pipe rupture of valve failure, (and it can't be localized to a point near edge of slab that would permit access by digging under), you might want to consider capping off near the main and diverting to a newly-installed water line. The reasoning is, that if the old plumbing has failed once, it will fail again elsewhere due to age. If you're going to go through concrete, it might as well be to install new pipe; you don't want to do the job more than once.

Another thing--

I also understand from watching This Old House on American PBS TV, that it's possible to locate seal leaks by relining the pipe, in place, by an extrusion process; no tearing up slab of replacing pipe. The new pipe lining is said to be stronger than the original or new piping. Comparing the price of that service with water over payments, you might check the This Old House web site for information and referral about such a service in you locale.

It seems that you have esablished that there is a leak? If not, then turn off the main to your house (not municipal meter tap). If the meter is still running, then you have a problem. You will need the services of a plumber (they have the equivalent of a doctor's stethoscope to diagnose the location of the leak. Once established you can dig up and hey presto!!! In terms of the future, may I take the liberty to suggest that you bring your piping to the surface - it will save you lots of money,time and grief.

Best wishes

Dhiru V Soni

The best and least expensive way to find a water leak is with the use of "THERMOGRAPHY"...

This is a system where the technician uses a "Camera" that "Sees" heat by utilizing Infra Red sensors...

This is the same type of imaging as was shown on the movie "Predator" where all you saw (From the Predator's perspective) is heat image patterns...

By using this camera, you will be able to tell differences in temperature that would indicate moisture or water (Due to the cooling effect). The new cameras can differentiate between one tenth of a degree Fahrenheit...

One of my partner companies (Here in the SE of the USA) provides this service; it is not expensive. But since you are not here in the US, you may need to look for a local source under Thermography or Thermographic imaging......

I have replaced all my under slab hot water copper pipe by going in the attic and down to the fixtures. I just finished doing the same to a cold water line. The plumber was able to isolate the leak to a particular run of line under the slab so only that service was rerouted above. In my area almost all the houses have had to put their lines in the attic. This is oil country and there is a major oil field line under cathodic protection in the general area. I have often thought that my house could have acted as a sacrifical anode for the oil line. In fact, one house a block away had to be demolished and never rebuilt due to the problems from the line.

He's in South Africa. Who knows what the water content is there and how old the home is unless he shares that with us.

If the water has a high acidic content to it, it could have eaten the pipe walls away. If they have a lot of calcium in the water the pipe might have become so constricted with build up that it is leaking at a weak point.

Check the water closet fill valve first , and there are listening devices just for these cases.

Conrads and the forum,

I currently have a similar problem but, I believe on the hot water side!

In a pipe or set of pipes buried in concrete. There was a similar leak some 20 years ago just after the house was built and the builder had to repair it with many, many grumbles. His repair did not work very well and it was soon leaking again!

The walls were wrecked, the floors had to be replaced, as did the floor coverings, tiling and carpets. But eventually it all settled and we were able to go about our business.

The symptoms then were wet walls up to around waist height.

The problem has now restarted and I hope to get a contractor in in the next week or so - I am not screaming for immediate assistance as I have visitors now and I hope to get this fixed after they have gone! Also the walls are only affected up to around 2 to 3 inches above the floor this time.

I am sure that we will be able to locate the leak properly when I can get the floor coverings up (after visitors leave) but it does leave a nasty suspicion that it might happen again.

The pipes concerned are either 15mm copper of 10mm copper and I would appreciate any comments form the forum about what should be done to the pipes and joints before they are once more buried in concrete.

Is there a standard for this that operates in the UK; that would be very helpful!

I have no personal experience of plumbing under these conditions and would appreciate any advice from the group.

One other small point: I did have to have the whole system flushed through a few months ago and there might be some possblity of an interaction between the two events?

Thanks very much

(very) Sleepy

Hello Sleepy

Do not embed bare copper pipes in concrete, that is a sure method of future corrosion troubles, from the outside of the pipe to the inner surface.

If you do need to embed copper pipes into concrete, wrap them thoroughly in "Densyl Tape" tape.

Densyl Tape is a wrapping tape for pipes etc, which has a better service rating than the original "Denso" tape.

Of course we don't know your local water quality, and it may be possible that the corrosion of the copper pipes is coming from inside the pipe, because of the water quality being poor.

Hot water copper piping will corrode faster, if there is bad water or localized defects.

Note that over the last few years, copper piping has been made in countries which do not have stringent Quality Assurance Standards, and sometimes that piping has defects which are not noticeable while the pipe is new (There are localized impurities, which act as tiny batteries when wet, and these can eat a hole though the pipe wall in a year or two).

Here in New Zealand, there have been many cases of copper pipes corroded out, while on Metropolitan water supplies, and the actual copper piping has proven to be faulty, as imported cheaply from an overseas supplier.

So, before your work is redone, ensure that you know the Country of manufacture of that copper pipe you are installing, and make certain that the maker is a well-recognised trusted supplier.

Trust that assists you.

Kind Regards....

I was in need of magnesium for business use, and came across a company that makes a living installed sacrificial anodes. They typically install magnesium zinc or aluminum anodes in soil bags that will sacrifice themselves to protect something that is not desirable to allow to corrode. go a search for anodes, and you can find a contractor in your area. Typically anodes will last many years, and should be able to be installed by you. Good luck.

Hello Conrads:

sounds like the last plumber may have disturbed a pipe or caused a leak which was about to happen anyway?

You say there is no path around where the plumber worked. try and see if the pipe he/she connected to has a leak by digging round the outside tap.

The stethoscope is a good idea. I used a piece of garden cane but a stethoscope would catch the sound better. As someone said check for dripping bathroom taps and check the cisterns, And, if you have a loft, check the water tank which supplies the bath to see if its ballcock in not letting water by.

It may be worth ask the Municipal water company to check for the leak. They can only say no! Could save a lot of time.

Good luck.

stay safe

babybear

Hi all. Just some feedback as I can see various people need more info, so here goes. The house must be 30+ years old. The water is of a very high quality, drinkable from the tap. Not a lot of calcium as I don't need any water softener for the dishwasher etc. There is no main shutoff valve except the municipal one. I have closed all the toilet valves and the geyser (hot water tank) does not leak, as there is no water drip from the overflow. The pipes leading from the main house to the outbuildings have been cut and isolated so it is not in this line where the leak is. The only place where it can be is from the main valve to the back of the house and the distance from the main valve until it goes under concrete is approx 8m. I do not think that the piping is enclosed with concrete but rather that the pipes are about 500mm (estimate) deep in soil and the concrete poured over. But fact is, I don't want to end up breaking 25m of 300mm concrete only to find it is in the area where there is no concrete. And I don't want to dig up 8-10m of garden only to find the leak is under the concrete. So I was hoping to somehow listen where it is, pinpoint and dig. I will however, this weekend, dig up the section where the plumber worked, as that has now become the focus point.

I think you have gotten off to a good start. In my simple observation I have witnessed the following over and over again.

The last one who touched it screwed it up.

I try to ask what changed since the last time it worked properly? Leeds to a lot of lucky guesses. Good luck.

get a directional driller in to shoot a new line under your driveway.use pn 12 rating

An ultrasonic leak detector can be used to find the exact location of the water leak. They are expensive (around $1200 U.S.). You might be able to find one on ebay or be able to rent one. This will save you from digging up the entire pipe. You will need to know the location of the water line through the property in order to follow it with the detector. You put on the headset from the detector and point it at the location of the water line. When you come across the location of the leak, you will hear it.

I know it took a hell of a long time to get to this stage, but I finally fixed it and it only took a weekend. Here is the feedback... I bought a 450mm 8mm concrete drillbit. Then between the paving is grouting just wide enough for the drillbit to fit. I knew the pipe runs about 500mm from the wall of the house, so I picked the closest grout line. I then drilled a hole right through the grout into the concrete untill it was through. I the took a 3mm steel rod (1.5m long) and pushed it all the down this hole. On the 3rd drilled hole the rod became moist. The 4th hole was wet. I then cut out 3 paving tiles and removed it. I then drilled more holes into the concrete and broke it up. I started to dig a bit and 500mm down found the pipe and the leak. Cut the corroded piece out, unscrewed the remaining sections, bought a new piece, screwed it in and tested. 100%. Fixed. Thx for everyones input. Just thought I would give some feedback.

Thanks for letting us know how it worked out.

Finding a water leak is a process of elimination.

First, find out how bad it is by checking past and present water bills.

Second, find your water gauge and check to see how fast the dial is spinning.

Third, check all toilets and make sure they are not still running after a flush. To make sure, turn off all water to toilets.

Fourth, check all faucets and showers and make sure they are not dripping.

Fifth, check all exterior hose bibs connections. Look real hard. Many homeowners discover new hosebibs they never knew they had.

Sixth, find your water main shutoff. Sometimes it is leaking the city water. The company will check it for free.

After the above is said and done, go back and check the spinning dial. Is it stopped? If so, good. If not, you have a leak.

After reviewing your monthly bills, you can assess how much you need to worry about the leak.

If you determine the leak is bad you then have to isolate it.

Study your home. Do you hear a leak? Do you feel dampness in certain rooms? Imagine the water traveling from the main to the exterior valve that is on the visable outside wall and analyze the outside of your home.

The plumber digging the trench would work in the shortest route linearly with the cold water from the valve and work linearly with the hot water from the water heater.

Dont be afraid to cut inspection holes in the drywall. It is easy enough to repair and if you find what plumbers call the muffler or the main branch where the water divides to different sectors you can install an access panel for future use.

Once you find the main manifold, usually one in main rooms THERE MAY BE 2 YOU CAN inspect THE PIPES COMING OUT OF THE GROUND, THESE PIPES ARE usually COVERED WITH A PROTECTIVE PLASTIC LINER SIMILAR TO BUTLE OR POLYETHELENE PIPE.

IF YOU FIND ONE OF THESE PIPES TOBE LEAKING AT THE BASE YOUR NOT HOME YET SINCE THE PIPE UNDER GROUND IS COVERED WITH THE PLASTIC THE LEAK CAN BE VERY FAR AWAY FROM THE source OF EXIT.

THIRTEEN ONCE YOU FIND THE PIPE OR PIPES THAT ARE OOZING YOU HAVE TO ISOLATE EACH ONE BY CUTTING THEM FROM THE WATER SOURCE.

AN EASY WAY TO DO THIS WITHOUT SOLDERING IS TO FIRST CLEAN THE PIPE WITH EMERY CLOTH THEN CUT IF SO YOU CAN CAP IT WITH A quick CONNECT SYSTEM CAP, HOME DEPOT SELLS THIS SYSTEM CALLED SHARKBITE, YOU CAN INSTALL A CAP WITHOUT SOLDER AND REMOVE IT IN MINUTES.

WHEN YOU DO THE ABOVE MENTIONED IT IS BEST TO HAVE AN ASSOCIATE TO TURN THE WATER ON AND OF WHILE YOU ARE DONE THE TESTING SO YOU DO NOT PUT excessive WATER IN THE HOME.

SINCE MOST EVERYBODY HAS A CELL PHONE CALL EACH OTHER SO YOU CAN COMMUNICATE WHAT TO DO WHEN THE DISTANCES ARE TO LONG TO YELL TO ONE ANOTHER.

FOURTEEN EVERY TIME YOU ISOLATE ONE PIPE WITH A CAP OR CAPS YOU HAVE TO LOOK AT THE METER TO SEE IF YOU stopped THE WATER, ONCE YOU DID YOU HAVE FOUND YOUR LEAK.

FIFTEEN ONCE YOU HAVE ISOLATED THE LEAK AND stopped IT, YOU NOW HAVE TO CHECK ALL YOUR FAUCETS,TOILETS SHOWERS AND HOSEBIBS TO FIND OUT WHAT IS NOT GETTING WATER.

IF YOUR LUCKY IT MAYBE SOMETHING YOU CAN DO WITHOUT LIKE AN EXTERIOR HOSEBIB OF THE COLD WATER TO A SLOP SINK IN THE GARAGE.

IF IT IS SOMETHING LIKE A TOILET OF A SINK YOU NEED TO FIND OUT ARE YOU MISSING HOT OR COLD WATER.

ONCE YOU DETERMINE IF ITS HOT OR COLD WATER THEN YOU KNOW FROM WERE YOU WILL SUPPLY THE NEW PIPE RUN.

COLD CAN SOME FROM THE EXTERIOR OF THE HOUSE AND HOT HAS TO COME FROM THE WATER HEATER.

SOMETIMES IF ITS HOT AND AN ISOLATED ROOM YOU CAN CAP THE PIPE UNDER THE VANITY AND INSTALL A SMALL INSTA-HOT UNIT JUST FOR THAT SINK.

IN THE PAST I HAVE REROUTED OVER THE ROOF,AROUND THE HOUSE AND SOMETIMES REMOVED THE SINK ALL TOGETHER IF THE OWNERS FEEL THEY NEVER really USE IT LIKE A GARAGE SINK THAT IS ALWAYS FULL OF TRASH AND NEVER RUN.

FINALLY there ARE companies THAT HAVE SPECIAL SOUND EQUIPMENT AND ARE TRAINED TO DO ALL THE ABOVE, IN MOST CASES THEY CHARGE FOR A TYPICAL CALL ABOUT 300 TO 400 DOLLARS TO locate THE PROBLEM AREA, THIS GENERALLY DOES NOT INCLUDE THE COST OF THE REPAIR ITSELF.

IF YOU HAVE THIS PROBLEM always ASK FOR A WRITTEN ESTIMATE AND ASK IF ANY HOLES ARE MADE TO YOUR WALLS WHO IS responsible.

IT IS IMPORTANT WHEN YOU FACE THIS PROBLEM IS don't PANIC WATER IS NOT THAT COSTLY AND IF THE LEAK IS BAD YOU CAN always TURN OFF THE WATER WHEN YOU DO NOT NEED IT THEN TURN IT ON AGAIN WHEN YOU DO.

REMEMBER IF IT IS A MEDIUM LEAK WHEN YOU ARE using THE WATER THE pressure IS LESS because IT GOES TO THE PATH OF LEAST resistance, THAT IS THE END OF THE FAUCET OR SHOWER BEING USED.

ALSO TALK TO YOUR NEIGHBORS WHO HAVE THE SAME MODEL HOME THEY MAY HAVE HAD THE PROBLEM AND INCURRED THE COST AND KNOW THE GENERAL AREAS WERE THERE PIPES ARE LOCATED.

I HAVE SEEN companies SPEND SEVERAL DAYS TO FIND A LEAK WITH ALL THERE FANCY EQUIPMENT.

AND I HAVE FOUND leaks IN A MATTER OF MINUTES JUST BY stopping TO THINK AND RATIONALIZING WHERE IS THE LOGICAL LOCATION FOR THE PIPES.

REMEMBER NO ONE KNOWS YOUR HOME BETTER THAN YOU, SO GIVE IT A SHOT THE WORST THAT CAN HAPPEN IS YOU END UP CALLING SOMEONE ANYWAY.

GOOD HUNTING.

to make it easy why don't you ask for assistance to the water company,they are the one who is responsible for that.

north las vegas plumbers

Hello,

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