DC to AC Inverter

What is the make of the inverter?

What is its output rating?

The make is COTEK and its output rating is 210-230VAc

That's its voltage. Can it raise 2A at that voltage continuously under normal operation, i.e. support a 450W load - is it rated at that, or is it being over-driven?

The reason for the question is that many inverters have some form of overload protection on them that will shut the thing off if the burden on them is too heavy. And no-one can see it from here.

And the rated power or rated amps???

Is the storage battery OK? after 30 minutes check the voltage at the battery end.

Otherwise I don't see any problem other than some IC getting overheated and blocking off as mentioned in a previous post.

Never faced this problem with inverters but now facing with my TV, that used to sleep after some time, some Ic of the tuner was overheating.

Have you checked your 12VDC source? Perhaps it is worn out???

Its battery is gone for sure,

Some inverters require a resistive or inductor (transformer) load.

As others have mentioned if the load is too small or too great or the power factor outside limits the inverter output can collapse.

If the input voltage or available current is too low, output can collapse.

HI DEAR

I didnt work on the inverters before but let me tell you the reason why the output trip when you connected it to load the transisters which is present in the circuit board i think its D138 change those all and you will nt see that problem again in ur inverter thats the last solution but first you will have to go for the others suggestion okz if it works then do let us inform

REGURDS

FARRUKH ADNAN

SUPPORT ENGINEER

Does the output come back immediatly after removing the load or after a cool down period?

If it comes back immediately it sounds as if it may not like the load you have on it, poor power factor, maybe. If it takes a while to come back it sounds more like a thermal issue. What is the ambiient temperature where you are operating it?

Does it have adequite airflow when it is operating? It it getting hot externally when it quits or does it seem normal?

Could be a cold solder joint, I see that issue quite a lot anymore.

Just my random thoughts on the matter.

Some things that you should look at:

You should probably open the case up and blow all the dust bunnies and crud out of the heat sinks and make sure all the fans are turning easily. if they aren't turning easily, the wax that many chinese manufacturers have mistaken for grease has probably hardened and turned into glue. Get some electrical contact cleaner spray and flush all the gummy crud out of the bearings, allow it to dry, then spray the bearings with spray teflon lube and let it dry.

If you do that and it does not help. you may have electrolytic capacitors that have aged and dried out and are allowing more ripple current to leak through. This will cause the system to overheat which will dry the caps out even more, which will cause more heating... it is a viscious cycle. try replacing the aluminum electrolytic caps with new ones.

If that does not help, then you probably have a resistor in the overload trip circuit that has changed value due to heating. This is common for carbon composite resistors but not so common for metal film resistors. You'll need to check the resistance of each one against the color code or labeled value. replace the resistor(s) that are out of tolerance with a non-inductive metal film resistor of the same value and tolerance. This step may need to be done by the manufacturer since there may be some trimming and tuning required for proper operation. A prior poster indicated a specific resistor that might be the problem, I gather he is intimately familiar with that particular unit.

caps 10-90% error from the factory is normal, unless u buy the good stuff add that to the age of the cap