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Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/15/2009 2:59 PM

This is driving me nuts. I am looking for a source for what I have always called a ball-and-ramp actuator or ball-and-ramp cam. They have been used on motorcycles for clutch release, and look vaguely like a ball thrust bearing. If you took all but four of the balls out of a thrust bearing, and put four little ramps equally spaced around the race, you'd have one. Hold one side still, and move the other with a lever (which moves through an arc) and one race gets separated from the other, as the balls roll up the ramps.

Typically they have pretty high mechanical advantage, so that if you move the end of the lever through let's say three units, you get 1/4 unit of movement in the axial direction.

The idea is like a very very short ball screw. Or like a very short, large diameter acme screw and nut, with the screw acting as a jack screw. The balls roll, so that you can get a lot of force without a lot of friction.

I can't seem to find what I am looking for via Google, Global spec, etc.

Any idea of better terminology or a place to find such a thing? I'd like one three inches in diameter, with axial travel of about 1/2".

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#1

Re: Ball-and-ramp actuator

12/15/2009 3:17 PM

Try, "recirculating ball drive".

I think you'll like it.

Lyn

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#3
In reply to #1

Re: Ball-and-ramp actuator

12/16/2009 12:55 AM

Thanks Lyn. That's very close, although I don't need the balls to recirculate, and am hoping to find something more compact in the axial direction.

Your answer stimulated some thinking, and I searched a few patents, finding what I want under the term "ball ramp" (usually without the "-and-"). They are built into various things, but I haven't yet found the sort of standard piece I am hoping to find... something one of the bearing makers, clutch makers, sprag clutch makers, etc might sell in various sizes.

Here's a picture that shows the concept employed in a multi-disc brake. You pull on the orange linkage, which rotates the half of the unit with the thrust bearing, causing it to move to move axially relative to the other half, which is pinned to prevent rotation.

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#6
In reply to #3

Re: Ball-and-ramp actuator

12/16/2009 10:00 AM

Hi Blink,

I must say, from your original post, this drawing is just what I envisioned. I looked for a while then but did not find anything. Anyway, good job of describing what you were after!

Mike

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#11
In reply to #6

Re: Ball-and-ramp actuator

12/17/2009 1:32 PM

Thanks, Mike. I worked for a while as a technical writer, so I especially appreciate your kind words.

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#2

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/15/2009 11:31 PM

Consider checking with manufacturers who use these devices routinely. Some rotary solenoids/actuators do, e.g., see http://www.solenoids.com/, lower left item in opening picture. And how about http://mechanical-components.globalspec.com/Industrial-Directory/rotary_solenoid_micro ?

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#4
In reply to #2

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/16/2009 1:10 AM

Thanks, Ron. Good suggestion and links.

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#5
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Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/16/2009 8:12 AM

You're welcome.

Are you looking for one piece, or just a few, or quantity production? Does it need to be long lived, or is it something that will see relatively few cycles? With today's multi-axis machining capability, using a ball mill to cut a spiral ramp is almost trivially easy. I actually designed a mechanism using a straight ramp-&-ball mechanism (two pairs) to clamp microfiche between glass plates held by brass frames. [Operating the mechanism actually opened a slot to permit entry of the film, and it was spring loaded to close] Although the brass wouldn't have withstood hundreds of thousands of cycles, it was perfectly capable of doing the job I needed, and could have been chrome-plated to add an order of magnitude or more to the lifespan. If you got parts made of tool steel and had them hardened, they could be hard machined, or merely refined after hardening with abrasive finishing, and you could design around available bearing balls. Very likely, the actuation means and connection would involve greater design effort than the ramps. If you're doing proof-of-concept, a decent machinist with a mill and rotary table can make such a part.

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#8
In reply to #5

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/16/2009 12:19 PM

Hi Ron,

Yes, you're right that this would be pretty easy to make, and for the time being I only need two.

This goes on a proof-of-concept vehicle for which I have made countless little pieces on my lathe (with some other pieces hired out to people with bigger, better machine tools). If I count my time, I often end up with $100 bushings that "should" cost $1.00 if I could find the item mass-produced.

This project is self-funded (for the time being, but not by choice) so I am often debating "penny wise, pound foolish" sorts of things. I used to be a pretty good welder, but am now just barely competent (I'd like to think it's the equipment, but I think it is mainly my eyesight) so in the interests of economy, I weld pretty much everything myself, and everything seems to be holding, but its not pretty.

I even use my drill press (which is pretty heavy and solid) as a mill occasionally. I have an x-y vise, and a tilt-and-rotate table, and could probably knock out a couple of these things in brass -- and my local machinist could do it much better and much faster, but for more money.

Thanks again. Your comments are right on the money.

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#7

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/16/2009 12:04 PM

Blink,

I looked into my Mechanism and Mechanical Devices Sourcebook (McGraw-Hill second Edition)

Would the be a Overrunning Clutch

Looking at your drawing seems that its more axial movement implemnting a type of swash plate

p911

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#10
In reply to #7

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/17/2009 1:27 PM

Hi phoenix911,

Yes, it is axial movement that I need. The basic ball ramp mechanism is used in many things, but usually for very small (but relative high force) movement in the axial direction. I need at least 1/2 inch axial movement, and can make something up to work, but was hoping to find a standard part.

The overrunning clutch, in fact, is a good example of a highly-precise carefully heat treated special alloy part that is cheap to buy as a standard item, but really expensive and time consuming to make as a prototype.

Fortunately, for my application (in a proof of concept), I can make the thing I need out of very standard materials, and I don't have to worry much about durability, perfect finish, etc.

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#9

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/16/2009 3:43 PM

Such "devices" are used in many pneumatic nutrunners as torque limiting clutch. I would think that you could adapt one for your project. The ramp-discs are made of high quality hardened steel so that the life expectancy is quite high. You may even use a piece saved from a nutrunner out of use.

Sources: Ingersolrand Atlas Copco and many other.

Hope it will help.

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#12

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/17/2009 1:35 PM

Thanks again to everyone -- lots of good suggestions!

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#13
In reply to #12

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/17/2009 1:53 PM

But Blink [winey voice]

How's the hot rod coming

quit teasing us

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#14
In reply to #13

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/18/2009 12:13 AM

Arrrrgh... just as I was finishing up this post (I thought) my connection hung, and I inadvertently closed this browser tab... Darn! the post was absolute poetry!

Things are going pretty well. Regen works great -- the brakes are stone cold after several laps of my hilly neighborhood.

I thought "How bad can the vibration be?" as I made some simple rubber mounts for the rear subframe which holds the generator and its engine. I got my answer: very bad. So I have remounted the engine on isolation mounts, and the vibration is much more tolerable now -- my back no longer feels as if I've been given forty lashes every time the engine runs.

These ball ramp gizzies will be used to make the existing CVT (attached to the electric traction motor) manual instead of automatic. Due to regen and reverse (which the CVT is not really designed for) there are certain conditions under which the belt is slack when starting out, and the motor has to be revved way up to get moving -- and then the thing takes off with quite a lurch, shudders, etc. The keyway in the rear wheel sprocket has enlarged considerably from such shenanigans, so I want to have better control over the CVT. (I may make a couple very short, fat hydraulic cylinders instead of using ball ramps... although the idea of oil leaks around a dry belt is unappealing.)

Most of my welds look crummy, but have been holding together, with the exception of one on the exhaust system, which took some fiddling to get it to stop flailing around in sympathy with the engine vibrations.

I contacted Delphi to get info on their engine management system for small engines. They said "Forgeddaboutit, you're too small to even send any details to, and we don't want to even think about treating you like potential future customer."

The conceptual stuff all seems to be working fine. Loads of little details to sort out though.

Let's see what else? It looks different. I'll post a few pictures in a new thread in a few days.

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#15
In reply to #14

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/18/2009 1:03 AM

Success sounds like poetry

no matter how akward

I look forward to pics

I find the reason my welds look like chicken scratch is my hands don't go the right speed anymore

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#16
In reply to #15

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/19/2009 12:39 AM

I find the reason my welds look like chicken scratch is my hands don't go the right speed anymore

I hear ya. I am not exactly shaky, but the control just doesn't seem to be there... I guess. Although maybe its mainly eyesight. If I run a fairly long bead on something more than 1/8 thick, I'm fine, and I can see where I'm going. But shorter beads around curves and with thinner stock are a problem -- I can see the puddle, but can't see where I want it to go... at least for the first couple seconds. Seems like it might be related to my night vision also getting worse.

As it happens, certain key aspects of body plumbing are working fine. I'm not sure how I would answer this question: "You can either weld really well.... or mess around really well. One or the other: which is it? " After all.... I weld several times a week. Messing around? Let me think... was it before or after Halloween?

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#17
In reply to #16

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/19/2009 1:02 AM

What I mean is, I seem to go too fast or too slow [never could free hand a straight line]

Mig is a good example, you can run the feed & current at different settings & still get the same results, depending on how you move.

I take longer to sync up with the set up

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#18
In reply to #17

Re: Ball-and-Ramp Actuator

12/19/2009 12:02 PM

What I mean is, I seem to go too fast or too slow

Just communicate more with your partner.

Yeh that's one of my problems too. I'm not set up for TIG, and so took the pieces of my swing arm (which is aluminum) to a guy with a little weld shop out in the country. I came back with a piece of art. (I used to TIG pretty well -- and maybe I still could, because it a little easier to control speed -- but at my best, my welds did not look as good as this guy's.) He also gave me a bunch of green tomatoes to fry up.

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