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Anonymous Poster

How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/13/2007 1:22 AM

It Is Spring & Time For Us " Very Less Than Professional Home Engineers" To Build Their Huts, Garden Walls Or Even Houses.

Ok, Got No Money, But We've Got Cr4 & The Dirt Is Well-Dirt Cheap ,So With Mud Hoe / Mud Box, Clay,Sand, Lime Or Portland Cement Perhaps even Type C Fly Ash or Some Gypsum & Lignasulfate In Hand ; If One Considers Inorganic Cement AKA: Rammed Earth Adobe Stabilized Mixtures , Then Just How Thick Should The Walls Be For Each Foot Of Height . For Example We See Commonly 2 Ft Thick Walls Load Bearing Semi-Tall Shingled Pitched Roofs In 10 - 12 Foot Wall Heights, But If Your Going Two Story Or Even 3 Stories Then What Is Or Where Is The Civil Engineering Rule Of Thumb To Calculate This For Lay Builders ? Any Steel Needed To For A Rebar Grid Every Foot By Foot . Lets Start Please From The Wine Basement Foundation And Up And Lets See The Mechanics As Only You Gent's Know Them ?

Just Can't Wait For Your Replys !

Cheers

Bondjamesbond@rock.com

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#1

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/13/2007 11:08 AM

Building technicials/architects have all the design information and the planning procedures at their finger tips. Their skill is to design it so that it is right-first-time, thereby avoiding costly and time-consuming mistakes.

As a parallel, one wouldn't necessarily use a hammer to put a screw into a piece of wood, when a screwdriver would do a better job...

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Anonymous Poster
#2
In reply to #1

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/13/2007 11:48 AM

Hello Slack,

Yes- Quite, but one must also consider the reality of normal life, that not everyone will use an architect and protect themselves , hense the discussion topic.

If plans for failure, one will fail .

Just Can't Wait For Your Replys !

Cheers

Bondjamesbond@rock.com

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#8
In reply to #2

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/14/2007 3:35 PM

Know your limitations James.

"If one plans for failure one will fail." - True
If one fails to adequately plan, one will also fail, and possbly kill onesself or others.

No responsible trained person could give you safe advice with the data you have
presented.

You haven't even considered the bearing strength of soil /foundation problem and you
are contemplating a very massive structure.

You should not be doing this large a project with your lack of knowledge - period.

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Anonymous Poster
#3

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/14/2007 2:11 AM

Good luck with the building inspector with a three story, above basement, rammed earth structure without an architect or engineer's certification.

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#4

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/14/2007 2:37 AM

The "foundation" of a good wine basement is the choice of wines. Not knowing what is available to you - Sorry NO COMMENT

If you require a serious reply you should supply detailed information.

Even then you might have to decide between opposing suggestions.

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#5

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/14/2007 9:25 AM

You migh scale your aspirations back a little and settle for a single story no basement dwelling. If you do there are thousands of such structures sprinkled throughout the American southwest to use as examples. Many have outlasted their wooden and concrete bretheren. Forget rebar as reinforcement as it will rust away in a few short years because rammed earth, adobe and such are far more hydroscopic than concrete. Stick with traditional straw. It has survived the test of time. Wall thickness is usually 20% of the intended heighth. You can go to a thinner wall but if your soil is expansive or you live anywhere near a fault zone, thicker is better (and provides superior insulating qualities as well). Back in the 70's Mother Earth News had numerous feature articles on Adobe and alternate, i.e., rammed earth, filled tires, hay bales, beer cans, etc., construction. Suggest you Google as much info, build a garage or a dog house to get some experience or better yet, hire some of our Latin American artisans to do it for you.

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#6

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/14/2007 10:53 AM

I actually tried that, I may be one of the few posters on this thread who actually has some experience. I wondered if this really was an inexpensive way to build. I decided against building with rammed earth because the labour was so intense.

I made an adobe block, a rammed earth block, a rammed earth block with some portland cement in it, a rammed earth block with straw in it, and an adobe block with straw in it. I scraped the topsoil away from my garden, and used the yellowish soil underneath. There was a fair amount of sand in it, about half clay and sand. Once I made the blocks, I left them covered for a year, then uncovered for a year. They were sitting up on blocks. The adobe, with or without the straw crumbled pretty quickly. The rammed earth with the straw lasted all year with the cover in place, but when I took the cover off, it crumbled within a month. (I think the straw wicked the moisture into it. The rammed earth with 10% cement lasted just fine for both years, but when uncovered for a third year, it started to show signs of erosion. The rammed earth with no additives lasted just as long. So adding cement to the mix is expensive, difficult to do if the soil is even a little bit damp and "clumpy", and serves no useful and lasting purpose. Any of the above which were left on the soil simply crumbled after a few months due to moisture wicking up from below.

A gravel road is made of rammed earth. It lasts a long time in the weather. Cement just causes cracks and keeps it from "healing" itself. I once saw a rammed earth house built with a concrete "cap" on the top of the walls. The concrete holds j-bolts to hold the roof down in high winds. Good idea.

Rammed earth is cheaper than concrete, even when you factor in the cost of labour. I would not go higher than 10 feet (3 meters).

Get your building plans approved by your local building inspector. If he won't do it, then don't push the issue...he may know something about your local soil that you don't. The walls are the cheapest part of a house anyway! The foundation and roof are where the cost goes! I ended up building a post and beam...rammed earth was too labour intensive.

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Anonymous Poster
#7

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/14/2007 12:04 PM

In the Taos area of New Mexico There are whole subdivisions of Rammed earth homes. They call them earth ships.

they have learned from experience to make the walls 16 inches thick. That thickness is best for solar heating and cooling, not just for structural strength. This is a very dry enviroment. In the Taos area water erosion is not a problem. You did not mention the type weather you will have to deal with.

Try googling "earth Ship". there is more than just rammed earth info available.

rbeadle@pcc.edu

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#9

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/14/2007 5:33 PM

In Bulgaria Have like traditional construction. There are old houses at some centuries. They are made of clay, mixed with straw .Minimum thick is 50cm./for one storey with high to 4m. /

Foundation made of stone and brick for water-tight. For second storey is necessary frame from wood.

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#10

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/14/2007 11:58 PM

Sorry, I should have answered the specific question...."How thick should it be?" Thats easy. How big a box can you stand in comfortably? Build a box out of cardboard, stand in it, imagine ramming, shoveling, ramming some more, maybe using a power rammer like a "jumping jack". I think my big butt won't fit into a box less than 18 inches across on the inside without squeezing, or shifting the forms. (use slip forms. If you don't know what slip forms are, then google it.) I have seen rammed earth walls only 5 inches thick, but they were not load bearing. Just infill. People who do this work tend to work with 16 to 20 inch wide slip form boxes.

An extra inch can add thousands of pounds to the finished product, but hey, as long as you make a foundation suitable for a stone wall, it will be suitable for rammed earth. You might need some extra concrete for the foundation to accomodate a 20 inch wall, but the materials for the actual wall will be, well, DIRT cheap.

My experiments suggest that earth which is not rammed, but made like adobe, that is to say, like like mud bricks, should have fiber in it. Straw is great fiber. Adobe is NOT rammed earth. Adobe is dried mud. Excellent material for arid climates. My Texas friend lives in an adobe house, and loves it. Its all mud, straw and plaster. Looks great. But its not rammed earth.

(Now to google the code books for rammed earth! Wait a minute...YOU can do that same as me! Go for it!)

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Anonymous Poster
#11

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/15/2007 1:16 AM

I have seen a motel built from rammed earth with about 2 feet thick walls but the earth was not used as a structural member. The roof was supported on steel columns.

Cheers

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Anonymous Poster
#12

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/15/2007 2:15 AM

Some Truly Great Thoughts Gents, & I reply ,in good fun with a serious reason in mind . If I have or do offend you ,please forgive my awkward ways As, I am , it is said, better at destruction, than construction. And Here I Go.Pragmatist : "No responsible trained person could give you safe advice with the data you have presented."Well, I was not presenting Data for an actual construction job , just a topic for a discussion. Try presenting some real data yourself, Dear. Are you sure you're a pragmatist ? Pragmatist think of practical consequences and real effects to be vital concerns. Hence, your next idea."consider bearing strength of soil"Champion, Excellent Point; good data input !"You should not be doing this large a project, with your lack of knowledge - period."As President Ronald Reagan said "Well there you go again Mr. Gorbachev , Tear down that wall . "Wasn't Mind you own ------- business, as to what others should do , The 11th commandment ! "If one fails to adequately plan, one will also fail, and possibly kill ones self or others."Well , I can think of a few, but that would take a real plan & I'm just too old these days .#3 Guest Said:Good luck with the building inspector with a three story, above basement, rammed earth structure without an architect or engineer's certification.Been There, Done That. Thankfully, I know many places including my own, without those people or requirements; And any decent Church Should have burned some of those people at the stake years ago. I also know many that do know this subject & are fine people too. Let us stop saying no ,no, NO you just can't do that , let us then think of : What If & Then How To. There are so many that do read CR4, that have the knowledge to dispel rumors and fears & light the path. But the light is not as simple as just go hire someone or go buy it , its often just go do it yourself with a mindful eye to thoughtful suggestions good posters like you all.#4 Hendrik : "foundation of a good wine basement, is the choice of wines."Very true for wines and I do hope my Norton's do well this season ! Adding 10 more acres this year !"If you require a serious reply you should supply detailed information"It was only a question with very wide possibilities; Add some data yourself old boy, it IS a discussion, not a specific building project.#5 Teajonkwando : "You might scale your aspirations back ,... build a garage or a dog house to get some experience"Been there done that too & See My Last Answer, Please.#6 Yusef1Champion Post Except perhaps, Burn the inspector just after Sunday church, with the other Witches.Guest #7 Yep, Yep, Yep, Great Points and"You did not mention the type ( of) weather you will have to deal with."That's because I was not speaking in the 1st person of need , its more of a general building question, based upon the many questions I receive daily. I'm in the business . I know many on this Rammed Earth path, so religiously Reading David Easton's fine books , building test walls & well houses & animal shelters too. Those people would not hire an engineer to save their own lives, let alone save the engineers life or his income. I do think, were on the right tract with the discussion & most suggestions that have come in are intended as being constructive .#9 Kalchev: "Minimum thick is 50cm./for one storey with high to 4m"Yes, Quite & More; Good point and Bulgaria is truly a lovely country, I remember old Clay structures & some garden walls too.#10 yusef 1"power rammer like a jumping jack"And as I'm in the SE. USA I will say, AMEN Brother ! & I've got a code book somewhere with Rammed Earth & Adobe In It too. Ok, what I'm doing for myself this year & where I am sort of. Were in the Southeastern USA with great soils for foundations Beautiful weather ( Don't Tell The Yankees Please) and there are granite quarries abounding about us ( with tons of free stone sprawls ) . As to rebar & what I'm building : Well, Steel moves in standard ASTM building concrete at say 3000 PSI. at a very differing frequency ( say In a earth quake ) than in Rammed Earth mixes and I agree it should never be used. The frequency will pull the rebar out & collapse the building ; I have read this, but never seen it personally. It's my personal belief, One should think of a Stone building as the model of any Rammed Earth construction , then try and replicate that strength, with an eye toward beauty. I think some of the best looking walls I've ever personally built. were Rammed Earth mixes using Clay 30% Sand 70% & 16% white cement or 32% lime for stabilization . Then add a bit of Charcoal dust in the fray and they become almost marble looking. The thickest I've ever build is 36 inches for a first story structure & 18 inches at the top of the second story. We used concrete bond Beams every 10 feet high and used a form liner to give the colored concrete a stone pattern . Striking Structure ! The basement was 48 inches thick of concrete. No budgeting on this one & there were inspections too. They were not too educated in their government positions and hung around too much I thought , mostly in amazement. A quite lovely private building . This year in my own gardens we are building a 8 to 10 foot wall ( with gate opening tops & terrain) around our 5 acre formal flower garden. It will be a hard job and 24 inches thick . We will use a similar mix as I described above with a 36" concrete & Granite foundation & yes rebar in the foundation on 10 inch square configurations . It will not be Rammed Earth But A Poured Earth Mix In A Form. My Personal belief is Its easy to tie rebar up ( BUT NEVER WELD IT ) & place it in sections after digging the foundation. Ok, now that Iv'e made the world mad with my replies and its 2:05 AM I quit for the day.

Just Can't wait for your ( data ) answers.

Cheers Lads,

Bondjamesbond@rock.com

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Anonymous Poster
#13

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

03/15/2007 11:18 PM

Guest Post 11 : "as a structural member. The roof was supported on steel columns"

Yes Good Point, 3 marks for you. I've seen this too, as that the fear of public welfare, in a hotel Situ make this a requirement; I recall reading some time ago & the 24" thermal mass is for , Well Thermal Mass, Beauty , Inexpense and so on.

Cheers

Bondjamesbond@rock.com

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Anonymous Poster
#14

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

04/19/2007 12:36 AM

First Let Me Say To All Those Who Were Nice Enough to write me on the side and ask questions about Rammed Earth & Adobe, Yes I will add more content and building specifics to this posting often.

To begin:

Y
es, In South Carolina there are several examples of Rammed Earth (R/E) and the examples go way back. One that comes to mind is the lovely Church of The Holy Cross at Stateburg, SC. C.S.A. Built of just earth in 1850 it is 105 feet Long x 27 feet wide with gable ends 43 feet tall. It is a stately house of God well plastered with a cement pebble-dash wash and at 157 years of age has survived several hurricanes & the 1886 Great earth quake near Charleston, with only slight damage to its tower. It seems it was slightly dislodged from the rest of the building. The steeple was later blown down by a tornado in 1903 and fell across the West End of the church. In 1950, the steeple was restored upon concrete foundations, later in 1963 a Vestry room was added. Due to a leak in the roof, part of the south wall collapsed in 1974. The entire church underwent renovations thanks to a grant from the Historic Preservation section of the US Department of the Interior. Today Memorial stained-glass windows of modern construction installed in 1976 lights the interior. The Church of the Holy Cross- was declared a United States National Landmark in 1978.It survives today as a testimony both to God and to good planning, wise construction methods and the foresight of preservation.

We are in what I think of as the 3rd revival historically of R/E and it is due in part to the current economic conditions and old knowledge coming to light to those with an open mind. A home that is paid for is a great thing and solid walls , floors & even roofs made of non burning, low cost, low tech but highly effective materials makes it even more attractive in 2007. Our History has taught us many things 1 must be to build upon the past and maintain it well to educate all from.

More Later

Cheers

Bond

Bondjamesbond@rock.com

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#15

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

04/19/2007 1:14 AM

Just A Tag So I Can Find This Page As A Member - Or Should I Say Browser.

Bond

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#16

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

04/25/2007 11:20 PM

This is my first post so I'll try to be complete and to the point. This is a passion of mine & we love Rammed Earth (R/E) and it is the way people have created an affordable home with 1 of Gods greatest gifts. Once you have gone dirt, you'll never go back ! Here's our quick take ( as a R/E builder) on the process.

The Rammed Earth Process A Narrative in short form:

A Rammed Earth House = R/E is a masonry building that is as strong as stone if properly constructed . A successful earth construction project first requires the right soil mixes and second appropriate foundations, which include the installation of electrical, mechanical, and plumbing elements (typically) and best, before the slab floor is poured. With respect to design round is the strongest and then rectangular . Square for short 1 story structures, is perhaps permissible. Intersecting walls, buttressing each other is best or the round house with a dome roof of the same material is a fine structure , though not as excepted in the USA. Some of the finest homes through out history, are clad in stucco/plaster and so straight wall looking you have to really cut the wall to find out, it wasn't a poured concrete wall after all.

To Start Construction:

While having a structural engineer's blessing is required in some localities ,with the right builder or self study, the cost of the additional personnel is not required. Footings are required to support the R/E walls. They should be as wide as the walls above at a minimum, but twice as wide is always safest. Most walls we build ( up to 50 feet ) are 24 inches but some lower walls are 18 inches and second ( final) story walls are often only 12 inch with a transition from the lower wider walls at bond beam. While concrete is typically specified for buildings and stone & rubble foundations are ok for garden walls , the latter has been used historically with great success, when done properly. In at least some cases, reinforcing steel is placed vertically into the footings and may continue through the top bond beam of concrete, where welding steel plates to the rebar then to the steel trusses, ties the foundation to the walls, to the roof. This makes local inspectors very happy and in earthquake zones, this is highly considered a must have extra. The steel trusses and concrete or hand made clay roof tiles are just 1 extra way to ensure, no fire can take any part of the structure.

Raising The Walls:

Forms, either wood or metal, are set . The forming technique utilizes a movable or "slip" form for R/E construction. In this way just a few forms can be made up and used for the entire project. You will need corner forms & intersecting wall forms along with long walls. The wall will take on the look of the wall form so choose the form material you want your wall looking some what like. I like MDO Plywood. Form liners can be fabricated on site or purchased to give special appearances. Always, break the forms like you would a block wall making a lap of the next stepped layer rest upon the last step. A board of 2 inch thickness will make the end caps and some threaded rods will tie it all together with washers & nuts. Work in lifts of about 6 inches of fill at a time is alright with the rods being removed and the holes filled by compaction at the time when you move upward. When moving up leave a small amount hugging the layer below, so as not to allow your forms to become too narrow. When a ringing sound is heard during packing the R/E, the correct compaction is achieved. At the top of the wall or below 2nd story floor level or at 10 feet we always add a concrete bond beam, just as wide as the wall & 1 foot minimum thickness, with scheduled rebar tied & extended for the next wall to start upon.

Some Foot Notes:

Having more than 1 tamper is a good idea. An air compactor plus a hand compactor or 2 will help with the labor, but historically hand tool tamping worked for the Great Wall Of China, so it will work for us too. A good mixer & masonry wheel barrow, plus a piece of wire lath screen to sift the clay into mixable consistency, make a useable set up, as does the screen suspended between a wooden frame, roped to a "A" frame ,will allow shaking of the clay after it is placed onto the screen. Entire walls have been made from just clay & sand soils without any stabilizer but when your building a structure to last the centuries why not splurge and go about 16% Portland cement or 1/2 that much and 1/2 Hydrate Lime and you will have a fine wall. Burnished halos and color waves can be achieved by the addition of coal dust color pigments such as iron oxides and any integral concrete color agent but care should always be used as so the mix will be proportioned properly, for structural integrity. Finishes can be added later with Plaster, Concrete or none as is required . Adding foam Insulation only on or within the outer North Wall is a requirement, As I See It, as the thermal heat sync effect is a flywheel that makes for cooler Summers & Warmer winters if the structure is facing the travel of the Sun as a passive Solar structure should . We can build for you, or you can build for yourself, perhaps what is the finest structure economically available, from the material that was a gift from God - EARTH.

If I Can Be Of Help, Call Me.

Joe Woodall, President

Georgia Adobe (TM)

A Woodall Enterprises, Inc. Company

706-283-3232

Dewy Rose, Georgia 30634

www.georgiaadobe.com

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#17
In reply to #16

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

04/26/2007 8:48 AM

Dear Sir,

I've Heard Of Your Work In Georgia & That Was Put Quite Finely !

3 Cheers For Our Side.

Bond

Bondjamesbond@rock.com

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#18
In reply to #16

Re: How Thick Should Stablized Rammed Earth/Adobe Be ?

10/28/2008 8:16 PM

Hello ,

For those interested in further information about this subject , Please join our new Yahoo Group Forum At:

http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/georgiaadobeforums/

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