Loose Bearings - Will Anaerobic Paste Really Work?

JB Weld?

The most economical way to repair the part, in the long run, is to bore it out and install a sleeve. I have used the anaerobic compounds but only have good experiences when I have made the parts (i.e. controlled the thickness) to use the compounds.

You get my vote for a quick, effective and longlasting fix (provided the customer springs for some grease occasionally!)

GA

Is it a bearing or a bushing?

the official description is "radial spherical plain bearing" kind of a bushing/bearing....

http://medias.es.ina.com/medias/en!hp.ec.br.pr/GE..-FO-2RS*GE100-FO-2RS;bRCqj5PoHGN7

thanks for asking... JB

I'd go with RDGRNR. I'd even look for a steel filled epoxy at the store, if that's how you do this.

There's no way to rotate the inner or outer parts, or flip one or the other over?

I work in a pulp and paper mill and we use Loctite products with great success. For best results the Loctite cleaners and primers should be used and absolute cleanliness is vital. Cheers, Rex Devantier.

Assuming these are they from that link ....

Having had some experience with these critters

in the earth moving / agriculture/ mining, fields, and given the loads these bearings commonly take, I doubt any of these epoxy or anaerobic fillers would last 10 seconds.

There are 'cut and shut' outer ring shrinking remedies, but if they are of the mounted ring type (like above) - just replace them. They are not that expensive.

Replacement is, in the long run, your cheapest option. If your application is not using lube-free spherical plain bearings now, I would recommend a refit.

GA, 34.5 The whole point of interchangable parts is facilitation of replacement. If they have a 3 inch shaft in a 4 inch bearing, there must be some large forces at work. Order the replacement bearings, and have them all lubed up and ready when you shut down. Change them out and go on to other issues while the machinery is stopped.

Dear johnnybravo, You can use Anaerobic Paste. After fully drying up, bring back the original dimensions. Since the bearing movement is only about 1/4 rotation, you can now fit the bearing in such a way that the pasted area will come in the opposite side. Good Luck. Rangasamy

Anaerobic glues may be very dangerous if used near bearings!

There was (35 years ago) a costly failure in ships navigation and steering equipment by this.

Same type same glue (to secure the inner and outer rings of the ball-bearings) had been used for some years when there came alarms from the hot regions of this Earth that north-finding and steering failed completely in some ships.

This initiated a costly replacement action.

It took weeks to investigate into the maybe mechanisms and the result was:

In the first years after introducing this gluing procedure everything worked perfect. Then a second assembling team started work and did not accurately follow the instruction: use one drop of glue xyz only for one bearing ring to be applied with tool no.abc.

They thought if one drop is ok then 2 drops may be better.

The first drop hardened as usual but the second drop did not as there was not enough capillary volume where hardening is going on (only there) with these glues.

The second drop stayed there liquid and reactive but did not do any harm and the equipment passed without problems the quality tests.

Installed onboard a ship that passed through a region with unusually high temperature the surface tension changed (any liquid will creep better at higher temperatures) and the glue slowly was creeping into the bearing, there finding the very small gaps between balls and raceways and hardening there immediately, blocking any rotation, giving malfunction of essential equipment.

1 drop too much anaerobic liquid glue, 600 M$ equipment (half is the ship half the cargo) endangered.

Your paste may be better if it is not bleeding.

I would recommend any glue but anaerobic near small essential gaps!

Have a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year 2011

RHABE

I had great success with one of the Loctite products ( Quickmetal - I think was the name) 20+ years ago when these products were first introduced. This stuff works well as long as the bearing to shaft or housing fit isn't too loose. A tight slip fit is good - if the bearing wobbles on the shaft or rattles around in the housing you need to machine some new parts. Follow the directions especially in regards to cleaning and priming the surfaces. Aviod JB Weld and other epoxies - it will be impossible to disassemble it later. Ed from NJ USA

Is it not possible to enlarge the bore size and install a bigger bearing ?

If not, try to put some "Fuhlerlehrenband" between the bearing and the housing.

Fuhlerlehrenband exist in different thickness 0.03 - 0.05 - 0.08 …. mm

If possible use a new bearing with C3 tolerance

Final solution, clean parts well and use some "Loctite 660 quick metal" between housing and bearing.

All: Thanks for all the replies... Regarding some posts/suggestions

Without a doubt, the bearings will be replaced. (the bearing has about .25" of slop in it!) My worries are with any damage to the bore the bearing rests in, or the shaft that pivots on the bearing. After seeing how worn the bearing is, I assume it has "walked" around on the inner and outer surfaces - where I want to use the paste.

"cut and shut"... clever idea, but kind of short sighted when the bearings are relatively inexpensive. - I'll keep this in the back of my mind for future emergency repairs

Economics of the job/aversion to downtime force me to keep existing axle and bearing mount. (about 16-24 hours of downtime to replace the shaft)

I love JB weld, but my gut tells me not to do it.... as it keeps growing, my gut has a big influence in my life ;-)

I never thought of "fuhlerlehrenband" - shimming the bearing. Something tells me the shim stock will creep out of the bore, but I'll bring some along. Vielen Dank!

My intention is to try an anareobic, with proper prep. Maybe slide a shim in worn area if i can fit it, and try to convince the operator to let the stuff cure before startup, And whack him over the head with a grease gun... :-)

If anyone cares, I'll follow up with how it worked out.

Thanks again for all the replies... Happy Holidays to all! Now, put the computer away, and enjoy Christmas! Johnny B

And whack him over the head with a grease gun... :-)

Ad some walnut shell powder or even sawdust to the grease. If you can't fix it slack it. That's how a Queenslander would say it.

It could give you a few days if I understand your problem correctly. Your link didn't work for me so I am a bit in the dark.

Greetings, Ky.

I care and would be most interested on how it works out.

Especially as I would say 1/4" is "beyond redemption" by any of my previous suggestions - except replacement.

E.g. "cut and shut" is pretty well limited to reducing largish slack in the mounting bore and perhaps crush the bearing outer a few thousandths, not 250.

1/4" in dia. would mean Pi that out of the circumference = ~ 7/8" gap to pull up and a hopelessly oval result on anything smaller than about 18" diameter.

Yes, please keep us updated.

Before and after photos are much appreciated too......even "during" ones!!

All responders have good ideas. All I can add is my experience.

Anaerobic compounds need a close and equal space for them to work. Out of round openings will not will not work, as the magic word is anaerobic (no air).

As long as the section that the bearing is inserted and the inserted shaft is close to specs, a simple bearing failure. than a new bearing will work. There are a lot of other ways to resolve your problems. They all cost. I have had damaged shafts milled clean and either had a sleeve epoxied, or shrink fit on to it, and used a bearing with a larger ID.

You stated budget. That worries me the most. Any on the fly corrective work by you will take time and money.

Note: Their lack of maintenance could lead to other failed components that you are not being informed about.

Touch it, and you own it!

They crated the problem. Show no mercy, an fix it right!

My best results with resurrecting the dead has been with Locktite products.

Merry Christmas: eh

Johnnybravo,

I have used the Devcon paste with great sucess, I recieved a piece of rebuilt machinery that had a corner of the casting containg some very important bolt holes broken off. The machine value $2.500.000.00 and it was the main casting that had the damage, to replace this was out of the question. I took a piece of 2" angle iron and covered it in cellophane. I clamped this over the broken corner making a mold to containe the Devcon. I had the top just slightly higher than the original casting incase of shrinkage. I had cleaned the surfaces with an electrical contact solvent before begining. I filled this mold with the Devcon and waited till the next day to remove the piece of angel, the film prevented the Devcon from sticking to this surface. I filed the surfaces to match the orginal an redrilled and tapped the bolt holes. I installed the part that went here and torqued the 8.0mm bolts to spec. Over the years this part was removed and replaced many times and the repbuilt part of the casting held up with out a sign of failure. I certainly believe the Devcon will work for your repaire if you think it out and allow for final fitment.

Please (be creative) and keep us posted on your progress.

Jerrell,