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Phase Conversion

08/27/2011 2:18 AM

Hi every body....

Can anyone tell me how to convert from a 2-phase to a 3-phase through a condenser.

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#1

Re: phase conversion

08/27/2011 3:12 AM

Here are some ideas.

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#2

Re: phase conversion

08/27/2011 6:56 AM

Phases lag 120degrees of the angular speed in a 3-phase system. A capacitor'c current lags the voltage 90 degrees. So it is impossible to achieve a viable 3-phase circuit from a 2-phase one using capacitor, because appliances are designed for 120 degree 3 - phase supplies. If we had 4-phase supplies, that would have 90 degrees phase lags, then it would be possible to make suchlike experiments.

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#3
In reply to #2

Re: phase conversion

08/27/2011 7:00 AM

yes i understand ..can we do without condenser........?

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#4
In reply to #3

Re: phase conversion

08/27/2011 7:45 AM

There are VFD's turning a 2-wire voltage into a 3-wire 3-phase voltage. At least I know drives converting 1-phase 220 V into 3-phase 220V.

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#6
In reply to #4

Re: phase conversion

08/27/2011 8:21 AM

ok fine.....if u have given a 2 to 3 phase converter then how would you test it.......?

i have one 2 to 3 phase converter whose input across the two wire is 415v then i should get the 3 phase output with 415v at each phases but i am not getting across L2 (yellow) phase were as for other phases i am getting 415v.

can you tell me what is the problem and how can i rectify it?

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#7
In reply to #6

Re: phase conversion

08/27/2011 10:07 AM

1-phase to 3-phase inverter. If there are ones for 415V , then one turning 1-phase 415V into 3-phase 415V. You will know there are 3 phase 415V measuring voltage output across any of the 3 phases: there should be 415V everywhere.

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#5

Re: Phase Conversion

08/27/2011 8:17 AM

This is the more practical and efficient way to do it with a minimal number of parts.

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/re-projects/100563-3-phase-converter-schematic-miller-system.html

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#11
In reply to #5

Re: Phase Conversion

08/27/2011 11:31 PM

could you post the pic?

too lazy to register over there

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#18
In reply to #11

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 12:06 PM

Not really too lazy to post as well plus clicking on the link should have taken you there directly to view as a guest unless they changed something I am not aware of.

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#23
In reply to #18

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 3:02 PM

Nope. I could not get there either without registering.

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#25
In reply to #23

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 4:14 PM

Here it is in its entirety. Click on the schematic at the bottom for a larger view of it.

3 Phase Converter Schematic. (Miller system)

I was going through my old Cad files and found this schematic I made a while back.
I figured that with a good write up to explain how it works to back it up it could prove useful for anyone who wanted to run three phase motors or build a balanced phase rotary converter for running three phase powered equipment off of a single phase source. It's also known around my parts as a Miller system.

This is not the crappy low power, low efficiency, weak starting phase converters that you buy from the dealers. This is a well proven good high powered high efficiency design that can make most unmodified three phase motors run on single phase with both full starting torque and normal running power and efficiency.

I have built dozens of them and many are in daily usage applications and have given years of uninterrupted service working as both motors, phase converter power sources, and a few are now in dual use applications where they do double duty as a motor driving a mechanical load and as a balanced phase source rotary converter that runs additional loads.

The way I designed this type of system (Miller System) is rather strait forward and that allows for it to have some basic rule of thumb numbers that will get you close enough to be able get your setup working and will allow you to fine tune your system with very favorable results after that. For a basic reference point in the descriptions I will use what's needed for converting a standard 1 HP 230 Volt 1750 RPM three phase motor.

For a typical 1 horsepower 230 volt three phase motor to work well on single phase you will need two AC motor run capacitors (C1 and C2) of around 10 micro farads each and preferably with at least a 300 VAC rating however a higher voltage capacitor works the same. The motor start capacitor (C3) is a 100 uf 250 VAC type. These values are proportional to any size of motor within reason. For example a 25 HP motor would need two 250 uf motor run capacitors and 2500 uf of motor start capacitors. However the starting current would be around 500+ amps for a motor of that size though if its load was high! Being that AC capacitors for these types of applications don't come in individual sizes that large it will be necessary to use several smaller ones set up in parallel banks in order to get close to the needed working values.

Obviously if other voltages, frequencies, and power rating systems are used the numbers will change as well. The fact that they still follow proportionally is what's important. 50Hz needs 6/5th's the capacitance. 400 volts needs 230/400th's the capacitance and KW's needs 1000/746 the capacitance. The voltage reference values for tuning follow similarly as well.

These recommended capacitor values are typical values and are by no means set in stone. Depending upon the characteristics of the motor and what type of loads it powers they can vary from as low as 50% to as high as 150% of the typical suggested values. So if an exact capacitor value is unavailable just pick its nearest value, its likely going to be close enough. The recommended 10 uf per hp at 230 VAC 60 Hz with a 100 uf per HP starting capacitance just works out as the common average. Also because every motor brand, model, and speed has a different inductance and average efficiency you may need to change the two capacitors values up or down for peak power and efficiency when matching the actual motor to its load. That is why the actual values you may end with could be rather far from the typical suggested values.
This is done by reading the voltage across the L1 - L3 and the L2 - L3 lines while the motor is at its typical load range.

The run circuit.

The two motor run capacitors go from each supply line (L1 and L2) to the third phase line L3. That creates two basic LC tank circuits which use the rotors spinning motion to create a simple phase shifting autotransformer effect in the motor itself once it's up to speed. This is what makes it possible for the motor to run up to its full working power rating. This is also how the three phase windings are able to work at the proper phase angle relationships to each other so as far as the physics are concerned the rotating magnetic field sees three sine wave power sources with a 120 degree phase angle separation between them.

If the voltage is higher than around 115% of the incoming line voltage the capacitor values need to be bigger. If it's lower than 90% of the incoming line voltage they need to be smaller. And always keep them equal. This is keeping the LC tank circuits tuned to near the line frequency and is what keeps the current loads between each phase balanced using that phase angle shifting autotransformer effect.

The start circuit.

The start circuit is just a larger value of capacitance that is momentarily connected between L1 - L3 or L2 - L3. To set the direction of rotation connecting to one leg (L1) starts it rotation going one way and connecting to the other leg (L2) starts it rotation going the other way.

Obviously disconnect it from the circuit once the motor is up to speed. This can easily be done with a common potential relay (S1) that is common to HVAC applications. However these relays release voltages will likely need to be adjusted in order to prevent it from either releasing too soon or not releasing at all.
If it doesn't release when the motor is up to speed its voltage needs to be dropped. If it chatters or releases too soon it voltage needs to be raised. Most potential relays can be disassembled and adjusted internally.

For setting the basic start circuit uses a potential relay that's rated for a release voltage range near your motors third line running voltages. That is if both the L1 - L3 and the L2 - L3 voltages are around 230 - 250 volts when the motor is working normally the potential relay should have a release voltage of 240 volts or slightly less. However lowering or raising the starting capacitance value will change the starting current draw and torque and will also affect the potential relays release voltage set point as well.

Some additional set up notes.

One often overlooked problem that does frequently arise is that as with a large single phase motor this system also has a high starting current draw until it gets up to speed. That can create a large enough voltage drop that the start cycle may not be able to function properly despite much efforts in tuning it.

The only cure is to have large enough wire and a large enough power source to be able to feed it properly. On a 230 volt 60Hz system a typical load number is around 4 amps per HP at full running load. Starting load can easily be 5 times that though. A 40 amp circuit can easily start and run a 10 HP motor provided that the actual source can support the possible 200 amp start cycle load with out excessive voltage drop at the motor itself. Changing to a smaller start capacitor value will help limit the starting current but it also reduces the starting torque as well. This can cause slow starting which puts a heavy load on the windings and supply wire for a longer period of time.

Depending upon where the unit is being used and the length of the supply lines from the source plus the actual capacity of that power source the maximum size motor you may be able to start will vary greatly. Someone on a farm or with a large house that has a 200 amp or larger service that's supplied by a 25 KVA or larger transformer could conceivably power a 20 hp motor without problems. However a person living in an old residential neighbor hood in town that shares one common transformer with several houses may not be able to run over a few HP without the whole neighbor hood knowing about it every time it starts!

For reference I run a 15 Hp industrial air compressor off of a 60 amp circuit and it has no problems starting all the way down to around - 20 F. But the motor is ten feet away from a 200 amp service that's supplied by 4/0 gauge wire connected to a 15 KVA transformer 50 feet away.
So before you run out and buy that industrial monster machine you found for scrap price be aware that you may have problems getting it to go if you don't have the actual power system capacity to start it.

Assembling one is reasonably easy and that's why I give the information out for free! However tuning it to work efficiently and reliably is the hard part!


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#26
In reply to #25

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 6:57 PM

you brought the text

but the schematic didn't make it

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#27
In reply to #26

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 7:03 PM

It shows up on my computer at the bottom of the text.

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#28
In reply to #27

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 8:23 PM

That's probably because you are logged on to the site.

Clicking on the little box at the bottom of your text takes us to the login page.

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#8

Re: Phase Conversion

08/27/2011 3:02 PM

Hi Rimpul,

you can run a 3-phase induction motor from 2-wire AC. Connect 2 wires from the motor to the mains. Connect a capacitor from the remaining motor wire to one of the mains wires. For the capacitor use about 70 microfarad for every kilowatt specified for your motor.

You fool your motor with an asymetrical 3-phase system, so you get less power and torque, especially starting torque. It's OK for pumping. This scheme is extensively used by rice planters.

For safety: use a metallized (self-healing) polypropylene capacitor with a metallic housing, with overpressure disconnection and discharge resistor (single phase, 480 V or more). Discharge may take some minutes, so short the cap before handling it.

Your motor will heat more, too.

Start experimenting with smaller motors (< 1 HP or so). Cut and try. Some people use an additional capacitor for starting, this may be a sarting (lectrolytic) cap.

This scheme should work with other 3-phase loads, but then there might be other solutions,

brgds

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#29
In reply to #8

Re: Phase Conversion

08/29/2011 12:44 AM

thank you for your reply..

but sir i dint understand about this point "Connect a capacitor from the remaining motor wire to one of the mains wires." do u mean i should connect both the ends of the capacitor to the remaining phase terminal of motor..

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rimpul

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#30
In reply to #29

Re: Phase Conversion

08/29/2011 1:18 AM

Hi Rimpul,

The three phase power capacitor will be Three terminals. Connect R and Y terminal in the capacitor (Imaging B is absence now). connect the motor terminal also R and Y and connect the B terminal of the motor to the Third terminal (B) of the capacitor.

Hope now you understand

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Ravi-Coimbatore

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#31
In reply to #30

Re: Phase Conversion

08/29/2011 1:31 AM

thanks ravi..

do u have pic of the capacitor or part no. so that i can download the datasheet.

brdgs

rimpul.

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#33
In reply to #29

Re: Phase Conversion

08/29/2011 10:59 AM

Dear Rimpul,

you can have a suitable capacitor from Epcos (they have a factory in Nashik):

http://www.epcos.com/inf/20/50/ds/b32340_c.pdf

you'd better use a single phase capacitor (2 ends) for this purpose, e. g. B32340C. A three-phase one as suggested by Ravi is a little more complicated to connect (3 ends) and offers lower benefit vs. cost in this specific application (maybe it's easier for you to find).

So you connect one end of the capacitor to the remaining phase terminal of the motor and connect the other end of the capacitor to one of the mains wires. Which one of the mains wires? Try one of them, in case the motor runs the wrong direction you will know you have made the wrong choice... And please make sure you discharge the capacitor everytime you touch it. I have to agree with Andy's advices.

Andy, thanks for your comment, I've pre-marked my post as off-topic because the 120-0-120 thing has nothing to do with Rimpul's question.

brgds/mfG

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#35
In reply to #33

Re: Phase Conversion

08/30/2011 4:03 AM

dear snel.

thanks for your valuable suggestion....but the pdf what you have attached its locked...can you pls give the password to unlock the pdf file.

regards

rimpul

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#36
In reply to #35

Re: Phase Conversion

08/30/2011 7:10 AM

Hello Rimpul,

sorry, I don't have a password for that.

Try looking at

http://www.epcos.com

product catalogue

capacitors

capacitors for power factor correction

PhiCap

data sheets

PhiCap 1-phase

best regards

Snel

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#37
In reply to #36

Re: Phase Conversion

08/30/2011 7:34 AM

thank you snel.

regards

rimpul

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#9

Re: Phase Conversion

08/27/2011 11:22 PM
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#10

Re: Phase Conversion

08/27/2011 11:23 PM

There is a misunderstanding topped by miscommunication in the original question. I have found no true 2 phase power anywhere in the world. It is one phase for household use (mostly) or industrial 3 phase for motors (mostly). This is oversimplification, but will serve. There is a weird use of power and language in USA. The kilovolts distribution system is always 3 phase. In residential use a single phase transformer is connected to one of the 3 phases. The secondary provides a center tapped 220V, where each half is 110V, exactly 180 degrees to each other, and called in the trade language 2 phases. The hell it is. It is sloppy misuse of the language.

You CAN make three real phases from one, sort of, as the previous note #8 mentions. But it is a cludge. I would use it in a garage workshop, as the township will not give anything but single phase. In industrial setting it is unacceptable, will not pass inspection.

For commercial use there are rotary converters and solid state converters, all type approved. If you need instant direction reversal - as with a lathe - have 3 HP, but preferably 5HP converter for every HP driven.

But, for industrial use in industrial zoning you automatically get 3 true phases.

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#13
In reply to #10

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 1:22 AM

[quote]The secondary provides a center tapped 220V, where each half is 110V, exactly 180 degrees to each other, and called in the trade language 2 phases. The hell it is. It is sloppy misuse of the language.[/quote]


Why do you say 110 and 220, when when it's 120 and 240? I'm not saying that your wrong, it's just that I see this all the time and I'm asking you. :)
Sorry for OT.

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#15
In reply to #13

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 7:01 AM

Yes, you are right. Nominal 110V is mostly 120V, and so on. Since I am the closest to the transformer in my street, I had real problems with the voltage at the beginning. Learned quickly, to buy 120V lightbulbs and such. At the end of the streets my neighbours have maybe 100V. The blessings of an antiquated low voltage single phase service.

I have a bet with you. People will come back, again, persisting in the 2 phase nonsense. It seems to me, some insist to let it hang out. Not a pretty sight.

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#16
In reply to #15

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 10:44 AM

I used to work at a 64 lane bowling alley

the voltage was around 130volts, no light bulb was safe, the utility had hooked to the wrong tap on the transformer, once we got them to change it so we had 118v,

the boss complained about how dim the lights were

you're right about the 2 phase

another one that will mess you up is 3 phase with the stinger leg, older equipment doesn't much care for 208 being used for control power...

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#19
In reply to #15

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 12:16 PM

Hi Leveles, homeydclown

"I have found no true 2 phase power anywhere in the world."

I have 127 V at home, 3 phases. This is found in many regions. Besides balancing my loads better, I use the 220 V that come from 2 wires for bigger loads, the same way you use 240 V in your region. The power co. will deliver 1, 2 or 3 phases depending on your need. If I'd use two phases only my loads at 220 V would have single phase currents, of course, but the grid would see them as loads on 2 phases.

I can see Rimpul has 2 wires available fed by a 240 / 415 V system. This is why I've mentioned "2 wire", not "2 phases", for the proposed capacitor circuit (much cheaper than a VFD). A live wire is "a phase" in common language most everywhere. Many people down here still refer to the 127 V as "110", while very old electricians may call a live wire "the positive".

127/220, 220/380, 230/400, 240/415... even your region used to have 117/208 V, a 3-phase system, some 50 years ago. This is probably the historical reason for your trade language to call the 120/240 system "two phase"... I agree, a 180 deg angle is a degenerated angle, and the power system feeds your 120-0-120 wires with one phase only. Maybe this discussion goes back to Edison vs. Tesla...

brgds

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#21
In reply to #19

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 12:54 PM

Your post was on topic, so I have taken one off!! You are now only marked as 4 Off Topic!!!

Your post was fully accurate as far as I could tell.....

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#24
In reply to #19

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 3:43 PM
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#20
In reply to #15

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 12:45 PM

Hi Leveles, homeydclown

"I have found no true 2 phase power anywhere in the world."

I have 127 V at home, 3 phases. This is found in many regions. Besides balancing my loads better, I use the 220 V that come from 2 wires for bigger loads, the same way you use 240 V in your region. The power co. will deliver 1, 2 or 3 phases depending on your need. If I'd use two phases only my loads at 220 V would have single phase currents, of course, but the grid would see them as loads on 2 phases.

I can see Rimpul has 2 wires available fed by a 240 / 415 V system. This is why I've mentioned "2 wire", not "2 phases", for the proposed capacitor circuit (much cheaper than a VFD). A live wire is "a phase" in common language most everywhere. Many people down here still refer to the 127 V as "110", while very old electricians may call a live wire "the positive".

127/220, 220/380, 230/400, 240/415... even your region used to have 117/208 V, a 3-phase system, some 50 years ago. This is probably the historical reason for your trade language to call the 120/240 system "two phase"... I agree, a 180 deg angle is a degenerated angle, and the power system feeds your 120-0-120 wires with one phase only. Maybe this discussion goes back to Edison vs. Tesla...

brgds

Snel

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#34
In reply to #10

Re: Phase Conversion

08/29/2011 12:42 PM

The wikipedia article on split-phase American power describes the misnomer applied as 2-phase power.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split-phase_electric_power

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#12

Re: Phase Conversion

08/27/2011 11:58 PM

On one phase connect thru series capacitor to give 60 degree phase change. On same phase, connect series inductor to give 60 degrees phase change in the opposite direction. You now have 3 phase, 120 degrees between phases.

To calculate approx value of cap and inductor,

- work out approx "resistive" value of each phase of the load under normal operating conditions,

- draw phase diagram to work out reactance value required (or use calculator),

- use reactance formulae to give values of cap and inductor.

Those values will only work for that particular load. Of course if the load is a motor, start up will be interesting, because the phase angle changes will be larger with the lower "resistive" load. There won't be great starting torque. Once running at normal speed and constant torque, fine.

This is not a great solution, but ...

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#14

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 3:43 AM

i have heard of using a two phase motor to drive a three phase motor. it's my unstanding that the driven three phase motor will produce three phase power.

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#17

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 11:31 AM

There are really no 2 phase systems, the US system for 220 volts is actually a single phase, a tap in the middle for 110 volts.

So its either a single phase or a 3 phase......

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#22

Re: Phase Conversion

08/28/2011 1:11 PM

An add-on to #15. In the antiquated single phase system a 110V +/-10% = 20V deviation is deemed acceptable. IMHO in modern times it is not.

Let's compare it with a semimodern 220V(240V) three phase system. (Modern would be 380V or 450V, but it is for another time).

If a certain kilowatt passing thru causes 10V drop in a single phase, the same kilowatt causes 5V drop in a 220V single phase, causes (approximately, as power not always evenly distributed), 5/3 = roughly 1.6V drop in three phase. What is the % value?

Going from 110V single phase to a semimodern 220V three phase reduces troublesome voltage variation from +/-10% to a trivial +/-1,6%.

There. What does it cost? Changing the ancient local code. Replacing single phase transformer in future installations and replacements with smaller, and lighter three phase ones. Replacement breaker panels in three phase. Who cares, costwise?

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#32

Re: Phase Conversion

08/29/2011 3:34 AM

Dear Rimpul,

I am sorry to have to say this, but by the quality of your questions it indicates to me that you are not electrically "au fait" with such work as needed on this blog. This does mean that you may cause a fire, kill someone, or even kill yourself......

You need someone to help you that is at least a trained electrician......

Always remember - !SAFETY FIRST! -

__________________
"What others say about you reveals more about them, than it does you." Anon.
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