Hyundai Accent Water in Bores

Hi Del,

Sorry to hear of your automotive problems.

Could be a head gasket

BUT

Most likely a cracked head or a crack along a cylinder bore(s) adjacent to the water jacket.

Did the water spray out of all cylinders or one or two?

EDIT: Err ya, what Lyn said.

No sign of water in the engine oil?

Inclined to agree with lyn. Sound like it got pretty hot. Never know until your shufti is completed (I learned another new word. Thanks Del).

Good luck. Is this the same car as the exhaust mainfold trouble? You may be close to gaining your new chair!

Looked like water out of more than one bore. And yes it's the same car that had the exhaust manifold problem.
I think it's had a good run for it's money, I'd be happy for my Daughter to get something a bit new now that this oneiss getting to the upswing of the failure curve (dare I mention the 'bath tub' curve?).
Oooh yeah, I'd forgotten about taking the drivers seat, it's prob' worth more than the rest of the car.
Del

Sell it for parts...cut your losses..

Roundabout isn't that road that goes around in circles. We got them here we just don't have fancy names for them.

Sort like the M25 just the M25 bigger. It's around London.

Why did they cover the water works anyway?

Actually I got it wrong... it was the M11 A406 jusction... so sue me.
The waterworks is indeeded covered but it has some nice Victorian buildings>
Just sounds good doncha think... 'waterworks roundabout'. It's quite a nice drive, one minute you are in the outskirts of London, next minute you are driving through Epping Forrest where Henry VIII used to hunt deer from horse back.
Del

As I found out after a similar problem, once the head was surfaced and a new head gasket installed, the same overheating problem happened within a few hundred miles because the top of the block was warped.

Check the block for warp before you spend any money having the head worked over.

I put a rebuilt engine in the vehicle but even doing the work myself, it was a $3,000 expense.

When you replace the gasket, use a lot of blue goo (silicone based, I think), let it set up for several hours, and cross your fingers that the engine will last until you can get a decent replacement. About 40 years ago I had a similar occurance to a 1967 Dodge, 318 CI V8. Labor was a lot cheaper then, heads were milled and I got another 2 years out of the vehicle. It was a fun car, could get 115-120 mph out of it when I needed to.

Doorman, it ran from Harvey, ND to Fargo in 4 hours, even with picking up my date in Valley City! Of course gas was 0.40 per gallon back then!

Del,

Other destinations for the Accent -you could take a leaf out of Clarkson's book:
In 1999, Jeremy Clarkson used a Hyundai Accent in a banger race, competing against Tiff Needell amongst other competitors, in his video Head to Head. After the race, Clarkson had the Accent mashed in a junkyard.
:)
Mark Bingham
Relativity PL

G'day Dell,

The short answer is to get a good running engine from the wreckers (Breakers in UK speak) or one from the Asian motor importers.

If the motor has been cooked good and proper then aside from the warped/cracked head and warped deck you may also have softened piston rings/glazed bores. This will show up after you have replaced the head as increased oil consumption/fouling of the spark plugs. Also poor compression in one or more cylinders.

By the time you have invested in the machining and associated gaskets and whatnot. You will find it cheaper/quicker/easier just to swap another motor in.

Just don't forget to replace the timing belt in the new one before you stick it in.

I'm not sure what the "value" of a used Hyundai Getz is in quids, but in Oz they were a $13k(about 6K in UK pounds) ask new and a '98 model is only worth $2.5K with freight(registration/MoT) and that would be a total one owner little old lady low km glamour (as Arfur would say).

If you(your daughter) own the car outright, it is a straight, rust free, good interior car with all the "fruit" and your able to do the spanner work yourself then it's half a chance with a second hand motor to keep you going for a couple of years. But if there are other issues also looming then put that money into something else.

The Getz was the replacement for the Excel, and was/is a low rent poverty pack car great for what they are (My parents campaigned 2 Excels a Mk1[230,000km] & Mk3 [390,000km 2 motors] and a Lantra Wagon[360,000km]) and that is a carefree shopping trolley.

We buy 2nd hand motors for around the $600 - $800 mark(Oz pesos) and as Excel/Getz's are a bit like hemorrhoids around here, so parts are(locally) plentiful. Though I have little to no knowledge of the UK market, except from what I glean from ebay when I'm hunting bits for my Volvo 740's and Her Indoors Peugeot 205 and my mates TK Bedford.

Saved me a ton o typing - GA!

It would be criminal to write off such a new car.

This has not been hot yet. The oil had not yet burnt away. Not even close if it was still registering low on the dipstick.

This sounds like a progressive head gasket failure and should be easy to fix post shufti (I like that!)

When mating the head to the cylinder block use plenty of your favourite slow setting epoxy adhesive and it will be as good as new. If you want to go crazy then use a new head gasket as well.

Let the epoxy set hard for a day or two before starting the newly rejuvenated engine. Don't waste money on new oil.

Sell the car as soon as possible. Keep the nice seat in there for quick sale leverage. Where is the original seat anyway? You don't want to be buying another seat just to sell the car...Better to have a few bob in your pocket than having a car seat in your shed anyway.

Now that you know what to look out for when you buy the next car, go for it!

Can't find a button for "You dirty dog"

I'll agree it is probably patchable or repairable, but foisting it off on the unknowing patched isn't nice. Bad Karma.

Part it out on EBAY, make a deal with a breaker, repair it proper and keep it or sell it. Patch it up and sell to a dealer I find more acceptable.

Apparently I am part dog myself.

And maybe I misunderstand.

GA

I lived in Waltham Cross from '46 till '52, then Waltham Abbey till '67, then Epping till '70, or better said, that is where my parents lived, though I was in the RN from '63 to '73...and I moved to Sussex in October '73......

Really great area...we visited my Mother till 2005 in Stanstead Abbotts.....

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Just drop the head and see what is up, you have about a 90% chance that a new gasket will do it and hopefully no cracked head.......though secondhand engines/heads from a junkyard donor are not expensive....

If it is the gasket, do get the head planed, even if you don't think its needed, the planing will tell its own story!! I had to eventually take off 1 mm on an old Mitsubishi I owned about 20 years ago.......and I left a small thumbprint sized bit in the middle untouched......as it was a lot to remove. With a straight edge it did not seem so much.

As the valves need to be removed for planing, get the seats and valves re-cut/ground and carefully lap them in. Test for proper sealing using a non dangerous liquid, most use petrol (non dangerous???), I used meths as the vapours rise and I did it outside.......its also really "thin", boy did that engine start and run great.

Your daughter will be amazed how much power the engine suddenly has and how economical it is.....

Best of luck......

That's an extravagant way to go. Just get it going and get rid of it.

Dear Wal (I am REALLY surprised you used your CR4 name here, I wouldn't if I posted such a comment!!) that is not a moral way to work, nor is it moral to tell people to do that on CR4 either.......

But many immoral people do just that....so you know what you are!

If you are a true believer of any religious faith from this world, then simply don't do it......

....there again, if you believe in devil worship, maybe that is the way to go!!

I posted anonymously just to keep immoral people like you off my back!!!! There is no telling what you might get up to is there???

Dear me, now that was totally unexpected.

This is a case of cutting your losses.

I stand by my recommendations. I believe them to properly reflect the value of the asset.

The subject vehicle is not worthy of proper restoration.

Anybody buying it would be cognitively doing so at their own risk. ( It's an old car!) So where's the moral dilemma?

My recommendations are an option not a directive.

Possibly an immoral option......so why even post it? You are not now going to tell me that you intended for Del to fully inform the buyer..........that I will never believe.

If Del takes the head off as he proposes and sees that its a lot of work, he will probably find a buyer, happy to be fully aware of the exact problems, Del might just then still get rid of it for a not unreasonable price (2nd hand price minus repair costs and time etc.).......if not, scrapping is the only moral way to go.....

Near where I live, there are people/small companies, who buy such cars for as low a price as possible and do them up and sell them again.....if it still has an MOT certificate especially......

Well, here's a UK one.

Cannibalising two to make one good one, then disposing of the unwanted parts for spares, is also an option.

Ooooooh, look. It's got a happy face!

How about sending a well-known on-line auction website to the rescue?

_{(A recently-disposed-of Vauxhall Vectra with a similar problem raised £610 GBP!)}

GA

I've advised my Daughter to consider it a write off and sort out another vehicle. We can then have a go at it at our leisure.
Problem is I haven't got a covered workshop (it's full of my bow making stuff) and I've got a stinking cold so I'm not really up to working on it at the moment (don't really want to leave it with water in there, but I just cant face getting under and draing oil and water. Daught is V busy at the mo' and she'd want to do it with me supermavising.
If we can have a look at our leisure then maybe it can be sorted and at least sold as a runner.
If I had decent facilities (and was 20 years younger...but then I'd be working) I wouldn't mind spending the time refurbishing it to a decent condition, but to be honest it's pretty tired, although over the years it's been a good work horse.
Del

Hey Del, i may not be British but i do know that an M25 is a 25mm bolt and a circular junction is also known as a flange. But i must admit the Waterworks Roundabout and Epping does sound rather like an embarasing medical problem.

Ha Ha Ha.......very good.......

Don't leave this for too long.

No need to drain the oil mate.

Have you got any Araldite?

Hope you get over your cold soon.

Ok
Ok
Yes
Cheers
Del

After reading this thread, I see that I won't understand anybody when the misses and I go to York next June!!

If York is bad, try Gateshead, Hartlepool or Middlesbrough.

Like others that have previously posted, I would if in your shoes:

1. find a new replacement vehicle.

2. If it's too cold outside now you can always wait until next spring (when it warms up, if that's even possible in the UK? LOL) to work on the engine. Appears to be a bad head gasket IMO. If the head is aluminum there's a strong possibility that it is warped and require some machining to bring it back to specification. Once fixed, your daughter can use it as a back-up vehicle, or sell it outright.....you will get more $$$ back selling it fixed versus a broken car.

No mention how many Km are on the odometer. Km? But if you say it's getting tired, get rid of it anyway....it's 13+ years old, right? Keeping it is going to cost your daughter more and more UK Pounds year after year, so put money into a new car payment instead as well as receiving a piece of mind (relative to cost of diminishing returns and reliability......your daughter will be driving a brand new vehicle with many more safety features than the old junker.....and cars have grown much much more safer in the intervening 13 years.)

ps: Epping Forest....a new place for Del to play with his bows! Let's go hunting (poaching?) for little bunny Whabbits!!! hehehehe Ohhh Gosh, how I love those old Bugs Bunny & Elmer Fudd Loony Tunes!

I have to agree with your post.

But if he waits till next year before repairing, the bores will be too far gone with rust. He must at least take the head off and spray the bores with a lot of WD-40 or simiar to make sure that no rust starts. Check and turn the motor occasionally.....

Thick grease and occasionally turning the motor by hand to check will achieve the same result.....

I say make a mechanic out of your daughter! (But that's only so you can share in my misery of making a mechanic out of my son.)

I gave my son my old 1990 Daihatsu quite a while back. Eventually, the oil pump failed, and we decided to fix it, requiring a crank regrind, a connecting rod or two, etc, etc. In the US, parts are not generally available, so getting parts, used and new, required looking all over the world. It also involved funny stories of parts hand-carried on an airliner from Australia.

The dam thing runs now (after only who knows how much time with parts scattered all over both bays of the garage and outside, all my tools being impossible to locate for the duration, -- a year? -- etc, etc.)! He's not driving it yet because the ignition timing is not quite right (he missed by one tooth on the distributor drive) and the 15 minute timing job seems to have stretched on for months.

But it runs... and he did essentially all the work himself. Another car was essential in the interim, of course.

Oh... re your kids car: I'd say there is a better than 50% chance that planing the head and regasketing will do the trick. There are some crack checking products that will show up cracks in cylinders pretty well Zyglo (I think) being one.

I say make a mechanic out of your daughter!
Indeed! She's done a fair bit already, changed a clutch, dropped out a crankshaft and fitted new mains & big ends, had a head off, changed drive shafts on some of her old cars.
All with a bit of cattly supervision of course.
Del

Good going Del for training your youngster very well in regard to automechanics!

At least she won't be snookered by some future garage mechanic once you've retired and moved away to sunny Catropolis (wherever that may be located?)!!!!!

[Man, she can really stretch that Long Bow......must be a Brit thing.....anyhow I'd hate to be on the receiving end of Cupid's Arrow!! Hope she's landed a boyfriend before taking up archery as a passtime!!!!! LOL]

A few tricks that I used when working on MG's, Austins, Morris Minors & the like when working at BMC dealership as a mechanic. [I replaced a lot of these: AUD9096, AUF206] Back then, grind valves every 15k to 30k miles & o'haul engine at 60k.

If no oil in water, good chance only head gasket and not cracked.

Pull the head and place it upside down. With valves closed fill with solvent. If it holds, valves are still seating.

Put solvent on top of pistons, if drains right away, rings are gone.

With a straight edge, check flatness of head and engine block.

If overhead cam and surfacing bottom of head, also remove cam towers and surface top side. Otherwise, cam will be bowed and brake in short order.

How about some cheap easy tests? Start by re-torquing the head bolts, and see if it will now hold water in the cooling passages. Leave the spark plugs out and try pressurizing the cooling system. Then spin it over and again look for water coming out of the plug holes. If you are as lucky as me, it will hold again.

If not, you can buy some time by filling the cylinders up with a mix of engine oil and diesel. Then reinstall the spark plugs and let it sit.

If she is set on a replacement car, there should be some affordable Chevy Cavaliers available.

Good luck my friend.

Yeah, I'm going to drain the water and get some oil into the bores then leave it until I (and Daught') have some free time to hasve a play.
Del

If the water is in ALL the bores, it may not be the head gasket, it may be a hole in the intake manifold which is on some engines has coolant running through it.

I'm not familiar with the Acceut bnt engine but if this is it that aluminum fuel intake 'bottle' looks suspect. Just can't see the backside of it to tell if it has coolant connections.