Is This Fixable?

I assume you mean it cuts a 10 deg bevel? When you say it is set level, have you checked it with a square? (With it unplugged.) If it is square and tight before you start the cut, try a new blade.

Yes I set the saw on 0 degree Level. I turned the saw upside down and checked with a square. It is off square about 10 degrees. Haven't changed blades but it looks true.I tapped the trigger and didn't see any wobble in the blade.

I tapped the trigger and didn't see any wobble in the blade.

You later say that the blade is bent. If it is bent, it will appear to wobble. A bent blade cuts a wide kerf, but the centerline of the cut is perpendicular to the base plate if the saw is set correctly. Some dado adapters work on this principal.
I turned the saw upside down and checked with a square. It is off square about 10 degrees.

Then the problem is obvious, assuming you took the standard and obvious precaution of rotating the blade to several positions. The saw needs to be realigned, which on a cheap saw may involve bending pieces back into the correct shape.
A lot of bearing play cannot cause a 10 degree bevel (when the saw is otherwise set for a 0 degree bevel. Bearings that are so bad that the blade wobbles even 2 or 3 degrees are long over due for replacement and such slop would be stunningly obvious to anyone who has used a circular saw with any regularity.

I'd recommend taking the saw to someone who understands how they work. The instruction manual for any pretty good circular was will go through the alignment procedure. Replace the bearings -- this is cheap and easy to do.

As bigg indicated -Check the base plate (table) of the saw with a square.

Just because the degree scale looks to be at zero does not necessarily make it so.

The scale may be bent.

The question in my mind is if the saw blade is misaligned, slightly bent or if the bearings have too much play making for a wobbling cut. A bent blade can be easily fixed by just replacing the blade. Depending on the nature of a misalignment, this error can be easy to impossible to fix. Worn bearings can probably be fixed but a new saw may be cheaper.

Not sure about your saw but a lot of those have a guide wheel, the back of the blade rides up and down on. Make sure it's not missing or badly worn.

The bevel angle is adjustable...If it's bottomed out at zero and still off, then it may be bent or defective....a die grinder can extend the adjustment slot....

If on the other hand the cut is tending to the right or left, then it's possible the shoe is bent...this must be replaced or repaired...

I always thought a 2x4 was a board.
A 2x4 aint 2" x4".

..it could be a 600x1200 or 50x100

I certainly hope that every time you monkey around with it you UNPLUG the tool.

If not, your typing skills will deteriorate and you will have a different problem.

Thank you all for your replies. I found my problem. slightly bent blade and the shaft the blade goes on has some play. So looks like I am buying a New saw. Sorry if my description was not accurate but I am not totally stupid. I vallue my fingers enough to know to unplug the saw. thanks again and have a great day.

For what it's worth, I own both brands. My personal preference is the Skil^®.

It seems to be of a somewhat higher quality.

Not that there's any problems with the B&D.

i agree about skil saws and all there other products. i've own both a skil saw and drill that i've be using for umtine years with no problems. i oil them every once in awhile.

a word to the op, always buy premium blades. i use a carbon toothed blade and have cut nails with it without any apparrent damage.

that would be carbide teeth

My personal preference is for Makita.

Have you ever wondered why the former owner got rid of the saw?

If the blade is set 90° to the base plate, the cut must be square, that is; no bevel. The 10° angle you mention has to be a non-parallel condition between the flat side of the blade and the edge of the saw plate. Obviously, the blade and plate are not parallel, due to the saw being dropped. Check the edges of the plate and note any damage to the edges that could be caused by dropping. It can be fixed if you are handy. You need to brush up on your terminology so others will understand your question.

I like 10 degree cuts. It is sort of like a signature. Put a tag on it "for bevel cuts" and line it up with the other 4 saws you have.

When cutting a board do you reduce the depth of the blade? the blade should only protrude from the board by 5-10mm, if you read the instructions it should tell you to have the maximum No of teeth in contact with the board, also when you are cutting don't push the saw hard, if you have to push hard the blade is either blunt or the wrong one for the material. When cutting boards always try to use a strait edge guide & let the saw find it's own speed of cut, not so slow as to burn the wood or so fast that the machine is struggling to keep up,cutting by hand without any guides you tend to try to push the blade either way to keep on line, this is when you get an angled cut it's very easy to bend a rotating blade, also check that the edge of the base of the skill saw is parallel with the blade if it's not it will bend the blade when you run along a guide.

Bazzer

Is this a circular saw or a jig saw?

The clue is in the name, Skill saw also see No6.

Bazzer

There's a clue in the name?

I Googled it. It's a circular saw right?

Skil is a trademark. Skil also make (badge) jig saws, chain saws, sabre saws, band saws...Why can't folk use generic descriptors?

I think I'll hoover the house tonight.

The only bad thing I find about this sight is I get told the same information by more than one person. I don't need to be told the same thing over and over again. Yes it is a circular saw not a Skil saw. and Yes I unplug it when working on it. And I appreciate the lesson on haw to use the saw, But I am 65 and I have used power tools once or twice in my life. I have found my answer so thank you all for your time and expertise.

Okay, thanks for coming over.

We're all very happy you discovered the blade is bent, and we are pleased you shared that information late in the discussion... our varied expertise was certainly tested on this problem, thanks for bringing us this cerebral gymnastic.

Perhaps you should publish your "Rules for replying to Tledoux's posts" next time you ask an international forum for help.

The only bad thing I find about this sight [sic] is I get told the same information by more than one person.

I suspect that many people here may think you need to be told things more than once for them to sink in. It is intuitively obvious to check the blade with a square, and to rotate the blade to several positions when doing so (which will reveal a bent blade). A bent blade cannot cause a 10 degree bevel cut, as is obvious to anyone with the slightest mechanical aptitude. A bent blade cuts a wide kerf.

In one post you say the blade is bent; in another you say it is not. You can see how this could make people think you need to be told things in great detail and perhaps repeatedly.

Of course, in a site like this, most of us value a range of opinions, and if ten people agree on a procedure for checking your saw, with one outlier, that is probably more valuable than having just two responses. One response could be right and one could be wrong and you would have no way to know, as you have shown by having to ask your question.

K Fry thank you for your input and your apparent expertise on the matter. I see what you are saying. I use a lot of these sights for different issues and it seams you always have some people on them who really don't know enough about the topic and just give smart ass ed answers. Maybe I don't know the technical terms for everything but I don't come to these sights to be talked to like I am a complete idiot. Thanks again

I don't think anyone would call you a "complete" idiot. BTW, this is a site, not a sight. At 65, don't think there isn't something new to learn. I'm 77 and I learn something new every day. When you stop learning, it's the end.