Samsung LN46A650A1FXZA Repair

I've fixed many TVs, including the 52" Samsung I have now (bought for $100 broken on Craigslist) by simply replacing swollen, leaking, or burst-open capacitors.

Doesn't seem like you're asking for advice, but it's worth it to take the time while you have the cover off to check for any burnt out ICs, too. A broken capacitor can sometimes cause an IC to fail, too. Good visual once over should do it. :)

I hope Radio Shack has the capacitors!

...and do re-post after the repair, regardless as to whether it was successful or not. Interested readers deserve to be told.

I think you should upgrade...

You may be aware of the site www.badcaps.net. I replaced the first bad cap in a 27" Toshiba with one from Radio Shack and later all the others with better quality caps. After several years, the old problem (foldover) is starting to recur, so I may replace the old RS one (weI finally broke down and bought an HD LED flat screen so this one is out of service).

All this to say, Radio Shack capacitors may get you by for a while (maybe a long while), but if you want the best repair, you should probably use higher quality, low-ESR caps. The link above tells which ones folks have had good success with.

Good luck and be careful to discharge all the caps before you start. Some of those babies can store a punch for longer than you might think!

Good point! Be sure to upgrade to high temperature caps as well. Heat is the # 1 killer of caps.

GA

You beat me to it!!!

High temperature caps are almost always a good bet and tend to last longer, especially in TVs which often after several hours, get pretty warm.

update: out of stock, this is the closest they had....contemplating waiting until

Monday to hit electronics supply house....

is the voltage rating the same?

No the're 35v 1000uf axial mount.....originals were 16v 1000uf....the board is too tight I think to risk it....

This switching power supply capacitor issue is in my opinion a low life sc*mbag time bomb, a cheap mechanism to limit the useful life after warranty of most electronic equipment, long before they become truly obsolete. If addresed before the equipment is totally fried by unclamped HV spikes, it can be "easily" solved by e.g. adding a small inductance in series just after the HF rectification and before the dying caps. I also add a couple of 50V .1uF multi layer ceramics in parallel with bigger electrolytics, check for any cooling issues and forget all about it. Power supply will outlast other damaged stages from other design "flaws". S.M.

I'll settle for a couple of bullet proof capacitors....

G'day Solar E The cap. shown would be quite OK As long as you install it with the +ve down and put a strip of spaghetti over the exposed negative lead. Of course an RB type will fit in without this Mod.

We have almost finished with Monday over here, will send it over to you....

Regards,

Rod. J.

I agree with yamdankee, but would also check the other boards for shorts, especially the Backlight Inverter Board. Once the caps start failing, filtering and regulation are poor, possibly sending surges to other boards. Best to use a meter, visual is good, but may miss an obvious short. Before you spend much time changing components, many boards are available at reasonable cost, with a full warranty. Did you count the blinks and check the error code? Good luck,, but then skill surpasses luck, and you seem to be on the right track. Let us know how it comes out!

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