Need Help to Reinstall a Basketball Goal

Drill holes into the concrete so you can insert rebar into each hole. Make the holes larger than the rebar, and about 12 inches deep. Fill the holes with concrete, then force the rebar in. Once the concrete is set, install the pole in its new location.

That's the safe way to go.

If you plan to follow Anonymous Hero's suggestion, install the pole into a 8 inch quikrete tube sticking about 24 inches above the ground. That would give you 2 inches of concrete all around the pole.

I would take a hammer drill with a 1 1/2" bit and drill into the concrete in the center of the pipe about 1'....insert #10 rebar (or ~4 1/2" pieces)into hole covered in epoxy, hammer it in all the way....Have about 36" protruding from the end of the pipe(4' piece of rebar) ...dig 3' deep by 2' round hole, and fill with concrete....Prop pole in vertical position by whatever means available, and let set....

http://www.harrissupplysolutions.com/10-rebar-10-reinforcement-steel.html

http://www.thomasnet.com/products/rebar-66281700-1.html

I don't understand the reason for the rebar. Is part of it to protrude out of the end of the pole and be sunk into the the ground to extend deeper into the earth like a piling? Or is it all driven into the concrete and flush with the end of the pole? In the installation instructions for a replacement pole, cement was put into the bottom of the pole, rebar forced up into the cement, and then a cap placed on the end of the pole before placing the pole into the hole on bricks before filling the hole with concrete. This made us think that using the pole with the concrete already in it was just this step already done so I think we will just put it in without trying to remove the concrete but am puzzled about the reason for the rebar. I do very much appreciate all your help and suggestions!

How much of the pole is to be underground?

It was originally concreted about 18" in the ground, was extremely stable and withstood strong winds in its location between two houses. The pole is tall enough to let the backboard move up and down to adjust the height so we could probably put it about 2 feet in the ground.

That's what I would do. Dig a hole, drop it in, and pour concrete around it. Don't fuss about it.

Your local hardware store will have someone that can help you with the details of what toi buy and how to mix it.

I'll second AH's solution as the most direct solution requiring the minumum of equipment and experience.

As engineers, the KISS principle reigns supreme.

Good luck with your quest.

Well I was thinking since you had to remount the pole that you could raise it up 2 ft. for increasing basket height now or in the future...The rebar inserted into the pole 1 ft and sealed with epoxy would provide enough support with 3' into the concrete, to make a solid mount....now if you don't want to raise the pole and are happy with the height, then you can just bury the pole in the concrete 2' and be fine....I'm guessing it's a 10' pole, and the extra height might be desirable if not now then some time in the future....If the basket is adjustable height then you could raise the pole and lower the basket to original height as an option, and then have the option of raising it...Regulation height is 10', but junior sets start lower to make it easier for the kids....but at some point you usually want to raise it....

Thank you for the drawing! That's what I thought you had in mind but I don't think we need extra height. The goal is made with a pole that is long enough to allow the backboard to be moved to different positions when it is installed 18" or so in the ground. The original installation instructions called for a piece of rebar to be inserted into the bottom end of the pole after filling the bottom 3 feet with concrete. The bar did not extend out of the bottom of the pole into the earth so I was curious as to its purpose.

OK you're good to go then....the rebar and concrete in the pole was used to strengthen the base....just a hole, concrete, level and supports....The amount of concrete on the base mount will depend on the size of the kids playing(whether they like to hang and swing on the basket)....

The cement inside the pole and outside from the pole do not come in touch other at the end of the pole. This bond will be reacreated when you stick the pole in wet cement again. Thus there is no need to change anything. I believe the cement inside was there to give the pole more weight on the bottom and also to prevent standing water below the earth line. All this is still given. So dont worry and just dig the new hole and put the pole in at the desired depth.

Done. Have fun!

There are good suggestions on this list. I always get the list after almost everyone that is going to respond has done so. Not sure anything I can do about this. Now. If it was mine. I would be concerned about a pole 10' without any supports around it and NOT use Somethig that allows the Concrete to grab onto. Keep in mind this pole is heave mostly at the bottom but still heavy. With the back plate and the pole and a high wind it will NOT come out of the hole but will in time work its way loose if you get too much wind. You also over time get temperature differences that move things around as they get large and small. So I would not go as far as rebar. But if this is steel and you have access to a welder or a pickup to take it to a welding shop and let them weld about 6 bolts Any good quality bolt about 1.2 inch in diameter and about 3 to 5 inches long. Have some of them welded about 5 inches from the bottom and have one going North and one south and east and west etc.. The direction is not the point. But have at least 4 pointing in 4 directions so you get extra material rather than a smooth pipe for the Cement to grab on. The cost to weld this will be very low and will take less than 5 Min to do. I would have the set near the low and and then just add a few more 2 or 3 maybe up a little higher but still below the cement level. Then As has already been stated. Dig the hole. Put in the post and then stabilize and level the pole. I would wait two days or even 3 days before attaching or even touching the thing. Cement does harden in one day in most conditions but it does not reach anywhere near as hard as it is going to get in one day. So a little extra time without any movement makes the thing more stable. As to how much to use of cement. Several folks gave good answers to that. And I do like the idea of putting the pole high enough to go both 8 feet and 10 feet. If the pole is not long enough to go down 3' and if it is weldable and all metal is other than some rare metals I would have while at the weld shop a little more length to the thing. Now You have one more problem to deal with. This thing is also a lightning magnet. You should get a lighnigh ground rod and put it in the hole below the pole. They are not to hard to drive into the ground if the ground is not too hard and if it is it just takes longer. sold with any place that sells grounding rods are hammers that go around the rod and and are used for lots of things like fence posts and grounding rods. They only cost about $30 and can be used for other things around the yard. After driving the rod into the ground just add the clamps that are sold to connect to the grounding rod. Then use the proper wire ( they will have it at the hardware store that has the rod. The cost a $2 or so.) So put one clamp and wire on the rod and run the wire to the pole and attach with some radiator hose clamps hooked together so as to make it fit around the pipe. Make sure to file the area where the wife contacts the pole. Or you can even better put a nut on one of the bolts you weld to the bottom of the pipe i mentioned above. Now this is a very good thing to do. Why. Because in most dirt 3 feet deep and two feet around is not enough contact to handle a good lighting strike. And the other reason to do this is a good grounding rod helps reduce a lighting strike. It allows for the different charges between ground and the air dissipate and makes it less likely to cause a strike as you are dissipating the charge. Keep in mind. A good stoke from lighnign could vaporize the cement. Cement hardens but is full of water for years and decades and that water will turn to super heated steam and blow that cement like a small bomb. Or at least like popcorn. But this will give you the same as the rebar and it will last for as long as you want it too. Also cap the top after a few days with anything you can. Plastic or a coffee can etc.. I would also spray some wd40 down the inside of the pipe before caping it with the coffee can. Have a good time. Jim

Or you could cross drill two holes through the pipe & concrete with the hammer drill at two different heights & orientations. Then just insert two long bolts or threaded rods so they extend out both sides of the pipe. Add nuts to secure in place. Then concrete into the new hole as needed. This will keep the pole sufficiently attached to the new concrete and prevent it from ever rotating or coming out.