Eucalyptus Oil Bath Stain!!! HELP!

Break the bath!

^{_{Sorry could not resist!}}

Any Whisky in the house that could spare you the run to the shops in the morning?

I'm trying to avoid the bath breakage, but it may end up with me buying a new one!

Whisky eh? Sadly I've stopped drinking, so none here but there are shops I could buy some. Is it an ample replacement for ethanol? Cheap whisky ok?

"Is it an ample replacement for ethanol?"

I would say so, since whiskey (in fact all booze) *IS* ethanol, with differing 'contaminants' to provide flavor, body, and to reduce the concentration of the alcohol.

The 'cleaning ethanol' is almost 'pure' ethanol, with a 'denaturing agent' (aka, poison) added so it can be sold without baying the booze tax.

"Is it an ample replacement for ethanol?" Yes and No!

Ethanol at its purest is chemically processed to remove all remaining water from the azeotrope mixture of ethanol/water. This is 100% or 200 proof Ethanol (100% = 200 proof. The azeotrope mixture is approx. 95% Ethanol and 5% water. This is often known as "Cologne Spirits" because it is the concentration used to formulate fragrances. It's proof is 190 proof.

Moonshine, a home made liquor made with corn or other grains, is mostly 150 proof or 75%. Different materials are added to alter the taste.

Probably the highest proofcommercial liquor is Jamaican Rum at 120 proof. Next in the range of 100 proof down to 80 proof are the commercial whiskeys, gins, vodkas, etc.

Why all this? Ethanol is 200 proof, Whiskey's are approx. 80 to 100 proof. That is a big difference in concentration and properties. One's that distinctly vary the properties of each product/mixture. If 50% alcohol is needed, 100 proof vodka is a good source but it doesn't have the properties of 100 % (200 proof) alcohol. If Ethanol is needed it means 100% (200 proof) ethyl alcohol, or at least the azeotrope of 190 proof. It doesn't mean anything other than the 200 proof stuff.

In almost all cases denatured alcohol has a much higher proof than the proof of whiskeys. Leave the 80 to 100 proof for drinking and the higher stuff for cleaning. Each works better at it's own intended use than the other one.

Good Luck, Old Salt

Actually, 190 proof Graves Grain Alcohol was sold in package stores (liquor shops) in Connecticut. As far as I know it still is, but I haven't bought any since leaving college, when it was common to buy a case for the frats when making punch. It did serve as a very good cure for a sore throat though. Kept it in the freezer and loved the puff of steam when I gargled with it. Not sure whether it cured it, or just numbed everything going down.

Possibly scrape off with a razor blade.

If they asked no deposit or any warranty, I guess people is paying a fairly high rent, so it should cover any occasional maintenance costs. You didn't do it on purpose, it sounds pretty innocuous to use scented oil in a bath tub. Face them and see what happens.

Have you tried pine's oil ? it removes engine grease...

Good luck

Thanks, I'll add pine oil to tomorrow's shopping list.

The bath is badly stained...new tub is the alternative!

Scraping with a blade will ruin the enamel.

Thanks, and keep any suggestions coming!

Usually soluble in ether, ethanol or chloroform...probably will wear off with use of tub....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eucalyptol

Post a sign saying "Jackson Pollock was here", and charge an interior decorator's fee.

Embellish a bit more if needed.

What's the tub made out of?

Don't want to scratch it all up if it's plastic or damage it with chemicals if it's cast iron (etc).

Have you tried isopropynol (rubbing alcohol, isopropyl alcohol)? You can get it at most grocery stores and drug stores (chemist shops). I found it worked great in removing duct tape residue when nothing else worked.

Another suggestion is 'the hair of the dog' - i.e., take a cloth dampened with some of the eucalyptus oil and rub the spots. The solvent in which the oil is suspended might dissolve the spots and allow the cloth to remove them.

A third suggestion is a polishing-type cleanser like Bon Ami. It has a very fine grain size so it polishes away spots, rather than grinding them away like more abrasive cleansers - test an area, but my guess is that it won't scratch.

Good luck.

Was the Winter Green Oil thinned with some solvent (check the bottle label)?

I have no first hand knowledge, but try some WD-40. It dissolves a lot of things, and I don't see how it can hurt. The WD-40 can be cleaned up with soap and water.

refinish

First try TERPENE Oil. It is an extract from many fruits and mixes well with Essential Oils, which Eucalyptus Oil is. May be available at the paint depts. of the big box stores. Usually found on the solvent shelf at well stocked paint stores.

Next try Ethanol. Ether or Chloroform. Do this very carefully since Ethanol and Ether are highly flammable. Also use adequate ventilation to disperse the vapors. If available use a charcoal based half-faced respirator. If Ethanol is not readily available use full strength corn liquor or denatured alcohol. Ether and Chloroform will be harder to get except at a laboratory chemical supply. Chloroform vapors are deadly. It used to be used as an anesthetic to put people asleep for dental work. It has also been used as a murder weapon by respiration in large quantities.

Next- (be careful, this is flammable) try Toluene. This is the smell from model airplane glue of which it is the solvent. Also may be available at the big boxes or paint stores. In the USA it is also sold as "GOOF OFF". That is sold as a graffiti and marker remover. It is insoluble in water enough that it should work.

If all else fails try a light weight motor oil, #5, #10 or 5W-20. The light weight will make it combine and act as a solvent with the Eucalyptus Oil.

Next time try bubble bath soap in the tub as the entertainment!

Good Luck, Old Salt

Contact the manufacturer of the oil, tell them your situation and ask what to do about it. Chances are they will prove very cooperative, given the situation.

Fortunately the tub is porcelain enamel giving you much more latitude in your choice of solvents. Have you tried MEK? Xylene? Toluene?

As with all such solvents PLEASE provide adequate ventilation and avoid direct contact with skin and eyes. Also be sure the stuff doesn't contact paint and plastics.

Well, I could only procure Ethanol and it hasn't worked.

Thanks for all your efforts and suggestions, I've tried what I can but the Eucalyptus resin just won't budge!

Heigh ho, I'll just have to shell out the $$$$

Best wishes,

Stev

Kris knows how to remove bath stains. Permanently.

Have you tried acetone? Easily available from Home Depot/Lowes. It's a powerful solvent and miscible in all proportions with water. Furthermore, it's not toxic - although you should avoid breathing large amounts obviously. But note: Very flammable and low boiling point - so no flames, sparks etc.

Other alternative is ethyl acetate - also from Home Depot/Lowes. Similarly very flammable but not toxic. Good luck!

First winter green oil and eucalyptus oil are not the same thing.

So which is it?

Because eucalyptus oil is used as a bathroom cleaner.

You try Mr Cleans Magic Eraser

Maybe Pumie? http://www.uspumice.com/pages/kitchenbath.html

Worked beautifully on a very stained toilet bowl that I thought was a lost cause.

First try WD-40--It can remove a whole bunch of weird things--Then Magic Eraser, which is non-scratching---Soft Suds removes some things, and also, maybe toothpaste, which some people use as a cleaner/ polish (Used at times to remove finger oil spots from camera lenses), as well as machine parts….Bon Ami also comes to mind, as well as Bar Tender's friend.. A poultice can be made of baking soda, or plaster powder, and , of all things, an acetone soaked rag over top , then a covering to prevent the acetone from evaporating…(Tin foil etc.) Tape edges... Let sit for 12 hours, remove and reapply as necessary...Used to remove dark oil and stains from white marble--Can take repeated attempts, but have seen it work.. Good luck, and let us know what seems to work….

I believe that you may not have a "stain", but rather a condition where the wintergreen oil (methyi Salicylate) has reacted with the tub surface-which is not specified. Eucalyptus oil would likely not do this. Unfortunately, this family of wintergreen-like esters is also used in production of 6,6 Nylon. If polymerization has occurred, likely the best thing to do might be to look for someone who does tub restoration by coating the surface.

Porcelain enamel, judging from the OP's photos and later posts.

It's probably too late but...

If there is nothing left to lose you could try using the Winter Green Oil, neat - as a solvent then wash it liberally with soapy water to get rid of it.

Let us know what transpired in any case.

Cesium!

(Click image to arm, release to detonate)

Methyl salicilate solubility IN:

Chloroform

ACETIC ACID

Diethyl ester

Can be useful?

Might I suggest consulting a qualified expert on the subject:

Sorry. Just couldn't pass that one up. ;8 D