Chain Saw Repair

metal washers, maybe?

What about rubber grommets?

Alternatively you can use teflon bushes with flanged ends. (I cannot find a suitable name)

Oil proof rubber washers, or teflon washers might work, I guess. A 2X3" washer goes over both bolts, between the housing and the chain bar. Pressure from the hold down nuts might be enough pressure to prevent leaking. It's the bar oil that leaks, in case I didn't make that clear. In the mean time I tried putting some thread lock in the cracks and covered it with liquid electrical tape, as thread lock only dries if sealed from the air. I haven't tried it yet but don't hold much hope. Thanks for the advice. I'll try it and any other ideas I can get.

first you MUST remove all traces of oil , preferably using chlorinated solvent to ensure no residue. Then coat the bolts with silicone grease, wiping off as much as you can with a cloth. Then, using J-B weld, butter the inside diameters of the holes thoroughly, and reattach the bar with the 'greased bolts.' When the J-B has set remove the bolts and then coat them with Permatex #2 and reinstall, ensuring a 'bead' mof the Permatex #2 between the bar (and nut washer) and the aluminum housing.

The J-B Weld is to prevent vibration/movement of the bolts in the housing, with the 'flexible' Permatex #2 sealing against leakage

I did not remove the bolts, as I do not know if they unscrew or come in from the inside. If they unscrew from the outside, that would allow for more options. There is a thin metal plate washer, about 2X3" that goes over the bolts between the the housing and the bar. The repair shop tried silicone in the cracks but it didn't last. I don't think the 2 bolts unscrew from the outside because they wobble slightly, from the aluminum getting worn by pressure from the chain bar. Do you think J.B. Weld would stick that well? I have some Brake Clean that I usually use to clean such things. Would that work?

I had occasion to use JB weld to repair a pin hole leak in the diesel fuel filter housing of my truck. As I was stuck on the side of the Interstate the only thing I had to remove the fuel was carb cleaner. Worked great. The repair actually lasted the 300 miles and 4 days required to replace the housing.

Good Luck

There is a simple solution for repairing the loose bolts and to stop the oil leak from around the threaded area. Take the saw to an engineering works and have them use a ReThread Repair Plug kit , but do not use the Thread Recoil Kit as the oil will still flow through the thread to thread clearance. Also have them use Loctite Primer T and some Loctite 601 Super Retaining compound on the outer thread to seal the area when they fit the Thread Plug with 3 Sprag lock Pins.

The kits can be expensive & are 'Off the Shelf' items, at most Mechanical Hardware Shops, that can be purchased with all the Taps and insertion tooling and many 10 ReThread Plugs. I would get the engineering firm to install the Plug Threads which have 3 sprag lock pins to lock the larger outer thread from coming out when removing the bar retaining nuts or studs are losened or removed, as it would be cheaper than purchasing the kits themselves and having all the left over tooling and Repair ReThread Plugs. It is also a fairly fastidious finicky job that can be easily 'Butchered' unless you are confident that you have the technical skills.

By the way, from memory, the chain bar retaining threaded locators are studs and not bolts.

The Recoil Thread is basically a stainless spring with the thread profile internally and the same pitch as the existing bolts (which should be replaced if the thread is damaged). The ReThread Plugs are similar to the Recoil except that it is a sealed ended internal and external threaded cylinder to accept the original bolt size with three triangle drive sprag pins that are located in machined groves down through the outer threaded section.

I have done thousands of these in aircraft engines (All Alloy bolt thread parts are fixtures this way from factory) as the strip loading of these kits are stronger than parent metal. In my engineering workshop we also did thousands of repairs and each repair kit has its preferred
use.

Hope this helps.

Les

If the JB Weld suggestion doesn't work, is there enough size and space to drill, tap, and install something like a "heli-coil" insert?

I assume these are the bar mounting bolts you are talking about? The best fix is to remove the bar, it should have two big bolts plus some form of adjuter mechnism for tightening the chain. remove the bolts and drill the holes out and tap them to take larger mild steel bolts. srew these in and cut off flush. Drill these steel plugs to fit original bolts and tap to size.

Chainsaws ALWAYS drip oil from the bar. The bar lubrication is total loss. when you leave teh saw the oil drips off. I suggest you leave it on a drip tray!.

I agree totally, dude.

If you are going to use JPWeld (or anything remotely similar), the metal surface must be roughened up and intimately clean. Use nothing that leaves a residue, even if you cannot see anything, it could ruin the bonding qualities.

The best way is first rough up the area to be glued, then to remove the damaged part and give it a cycle in the dishwasher (or scrub with hot water and washing up liquid). The use Q-Tips (or something else that is clean and oil free) and methylated spirits (which does not leave a residue) to clean the whole area thoroughly. DO NOT TOUCH IT WITH YOUR FINGERS ANYMORE!

Follow the good JPWeld advice from a previous contributor, give more than enough time to set, in a warm environment, a week if you can.

If that does not work either buy a new part (maybe old stock and low price) of look on ebay for a good part 2nd hand for example.....

The problem is usually caused by incorrect torque setting when assembling parts, too much or too little, either damage alu.....protect alu with a flat steel washer and use a further star locking washer at both ends of the bolts if possible....

Chain oil should be remove from Husqvarna chain saws not in use. Problem solved.

most chainsaws dont last long in my care,, mainly over use or tree falling on it.

try welding the bar strait onto the bolts, making sure there is sufficient spilled fuel on and around the area. use coution here as injury may result.

Try storing the saw on its side so as the valuable bar oil is not wasted on your bench.

from tim.

What model of saw so you have. I still have some manuals in the basement and may have the parts available. The housing for the blade mount is also the casting for the cylinder and you would have to take it apart to wash it in the dishwasher. If you use brake clean be sure to protect yourself from overspray or spray back from the cracks and crevices.

It's a Model 61. It could also use a new clutch brake assembly. I think I'm going to see if the bolt inserts will tighten up a little, then put some kind of washers around them and see if that works.

Have you R&Red husqy clutch/brakeband assy before, If not, proceed with caution since, with this make, you could be in for unpleasant surprises, and unexpected expenses. Husqy antikickback mechanisms are very touchy, and you won't find much knowledge/support from factory or dealer. Only someone willing to take your money to figure out how to fix it.

The brake was totally shot--busted. I was told they quit making the part at least 20 yrs. ago. I bought one on ebay for $50. that is claimed to be an 'after-market' part. I'm going to give it a try.

Use a metal flat washer and an o-ring beneath it.

Flat washer compresses the o-ring and seal the thread.

Just make sure to keep clearances tight.

If the threads are worn start by using a thread restore kit then do the above.

Worked for me.

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