Routing of Freon Tubes in Upright Freezer

Why not epoxy it on?

Not much surface area to work with on the latch.I could always tack weld the toggle to a larger flat plate,then epoxy this to the side panel.

I had rather use pop rivets if I find I can drill .

Good ideas.Thanks for the input.

I don't know about Amana (manufactured 35 miles south of me), but hot gas mullion heaters are possible (or oil cooler loops). My last refrigerator used this method to keep sweat and frost from forming where the door seals contact the main cabinet.

If it's old enough, it would use electric heat tape to perform this, so staying away from the seal contact surface is important. I'm thinking you are locating the latch catch around the corner of this front seal area, so you may be OK.

Sorry, I've never owned an Amana, or know any engineers from the plant.

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My thought, too.

Protecting beer is a noble cause....

They sell a lot of different glue on kits....

I would just use some double sided tape....but I have a roll lying around, paid about $35 for....

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Refrigerator-Door-Lock/dp/B006RAS8JW

<...Does anyone know for sure?...>

The manufacturer does. A telephone call is all it takes.

If you insist on adding a latch, take the door apart and see whats inside, mark the areas safe to drill and add your latch. Other wise, use one of the methods below with glues, tape and other.

I hope you know why freezer doors no longer latch. Given that:

Is the door on your upright freezer reversible as most are now a days? What good is Freon or refrigerant without a compressor and condenser? Or a power source for the door system?

Given the 0th law of thermodynamics, I would surmise that a closed loop non-circulating, non-powered matrix of Freon tubes in a door would be a waste of time and money. It makes much more sense to insulate it thoroughly. And any conductive material you pass thru the door barrier will compromise that insulation.

And then there is the danger of a latch on suffocation chamber, better check with your home owners insurance and keep the kids away from it.

No problem. Just check for no kids inside before locking the door. (Depending on what quality of kids, of course.)

That is sick, dark, and twisted.....

..in other words, hilarious. Thank you for putting a smile on my face this morning. Now I just have to lose it before the boss sees it. A happy worker is a worker with too light a workload, in his book.

I do not have any concerns regarding the door itself,that is obvious.

I merely mentioned it to indicate and clarify my purpose for the question

My concern is the side of the freezer beside the door.

Chest type freezers do have freon lines under the front exterior lining.

Obviously there cannot be freon lines in the door(duh!)(I wuz born at night,but not last night.)

Insofar as the latch I want to instsall, it will not automatically latch when closed,it

has to be manually latched from the outside.

The factory provides a door lock,but it also is externally operated,so I don't have any

legality concerns about adding another extermnal latch.

No room for anyone inside,only their hands.(remember the EZ Streets tv series?)

OK,not funny.

I retract that statement.Jury will disregard.

Moving right along,The problem is air leakage.

I have installed new gasket on door,as per instructions.

Looks tight all around, even under the bottom of door.

The dollar bill test passes at all points.

The door closes squarely, aligned with frame,not warped or skewed.

Freezer is level in all directions.

When drain line is defrosted,it works good for a few days,then freezes back up,due to

excessive condensation. Then drainage freezes in bottom of freezer.

I can force the door closed with a prop,and it does not accumulate ice in bottom.

Therefor it must have moisture getting in through the door seal somewhere.

I think the door magnet is too weak to provide a good seal.

Hence,the need for a toggle latch.

Even using the factory door lock does not pull it any tighter,and there is no

adjustment for the latch to make it tighter.

I have considered modifying the latch with a taller cam face,but that is a last resort.

I guess I could install a few "Super" magnets along the perimeter of the door to

increase seal compression if I do not find another method.

Any suggestions for alternatives,or something I may have overlooked are certainly

much appreciated.

Thanks guys!

Mr. Moneybags: Retire the old worn-out freezer, and buy an even older one that works, or buy a new one. You can use the old one for: (1) storage of surplus children, (jokingly stated),(2)welding rod storage, (3)fish bait storage (maybe), or (4) a place to hide secret money, contraband, or other items you only want beer guzzling federal employees to be able to locate.

If you opt to buy a new one try this: Run it at home at set up correctly, but lock the door and do not open it for a month. If after a month you open the door and find no ice problem (at least not a large mass of ice), then you have a good freezer.

How many times per hour are you opening the current freezer, and what is the moisture content of the air in your home (average, minimum, and maximum in grams/m³ will suffice to allow a calculation). Another leak test you might not want to try is the use of iodine vapor all around the door with potato starch rubbed around the inside edges past the seal. That might shed some color on the situation. Lyn-Dor Industries has these kits ready for distribution, and they have assumed all liabilities associated therewith.

Disclaimer: Do not try this at home if (1) you are immeasurably incompetent, (2) don't know how to make iodine vapor, (3) have problems with iodine staining the outside of the freezer or anything else, (4) are allergic to iodine, (5) if you or any of your loved ones have taken any prescription medication in the last 20 years, and you may die in the future due to any cause.

I would recommend trying cigar smoke, but it would take at least one box of cigars, and a lot of madiera wine to get any results at all, and by then you wouldn't care about the results. Alternate test method for those allergic to iodine: (1) apply Ex-Lax extract all around the door on the surfaces past the seal, then (2) use an ammonia vapor source (be creative) to permeate the areas near the seal on the outside with ammonia vapor. As ammonia seeps thru the unsealed areas, the phenolphthalein in the Ex-Lax extract will turn pink to crimson-ish. This will not solve your problem, but in some instances has cured constipation.

If you examine the hardware that holds the hinges to the main body of the freezer, you may find that there is room for adjustment. That may allow the door to close tighter. Another option might be to use a rubber bungee cord to pull the handle, and consequently the door tighter. Attach the other end of the cord to the back, avoiding the side walls.

Looks like I missed your post. Sorry for stepping on you.

why do you need an additional latch? security? That seems to eliminate the epoxy/double sided tape option.

the existing latch is broken? I could see fixing it as a good option.

you are filling the unit to the max, and you are afraid that it might burst open. Hence, this is a reinforcement effort. I like your exterior latch idea for that one. I would drill baby drill with a very short bit length(collared).

BTW, my brother the machine guru calls a drill bit a drill, while I call a drill bit a drill bit and the tool that spins it a drill. I was a carpenter/cabinetmaker early in my life, is that the source?

http://applianceassistant.com/ServiceManuals/16023585_maytag_amana_upright_freezers.pdf

Page 14 shows the route of the tubes on the sides.

Good luck missing one, perhaps try a stud finder or a magnet to locate them.

Thanks to everyone for their feedback.

I don't know why I could not find the manual on line.

Must not have held my mouth right.

Seeing as how the intenal lines are condenser lines,an infrared scanner may show

them when the freezer is runnng.

I might even be able to feel them.

Anyway,if I am not sure,I wont drill.

With enogh surface area,the carpet tape will probably work.

Thanks to everyone for chipping in on this.

The internal lines are evaporator lines; the condenser is external.

DOH! You right.Shoulda proof read my post a little better.

Tanks for the corekshun.