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Kitchen Renovations, Part 3

Posted May 14, 2010 9:00 AM by frankd20

Reconstruction

Once the walls in my kitchen were bare, it was time to cover them again. I had decided to use the moisture-resistant drywall, which I have always known as greenboard. To my surprise, what I knew as greenboard was actually purple at my local hardware store.

Cutting and installing the drywall wasn't all that difficult. From a previous job, I had a drywall screw gun which greatly sped up the process – and is something I highly recommend having if you have a lot of drywall to put up. I find drywalling sort of rewarding simply because it goes up fast and makes what was once studs, a room. After putting up the drywall, the usual tape and mud followed. Once the walls were done, it was time to paint; we choose a milk-coffee color, which seemed to work well with everything in the room.

Piecing Together the New Floor

With the walls done, I focused on finishing the floor. The first part of this task was to remove any holes in the floor and fill-in the plywood section with hardwood. Along the walls were some spots where holes had been drilled for plumbing or heating and were no longer in use. To remove them, I cut out small sections of hardwood floor and replaced them with new hardwood. I brought a piece of floor that I cut out to a flooring store to match it, and went home with a bundle of red oak. I have come to find that bare hardwood flooring is no longer easily available at your local hardware store; instead, everything now is prefinished.

Smooth & Shiny

The fun part of doing a hardwood floor is sanding it; for this I rented a sander. With the floor sanded, I decided to go over the floor with wood filler made for red oak flooring. The filler was just to fill in any small gaps. With the filler on and the floor sanded and smooth, it was time to put on polyurethane. The last time I applied poly, I used oil-based and I had no problems. I decided to try the water-based kind this time mostly because it is fast-drying.

Since I have to pass through my kitchen to get to other rooms, not being able to walk on the floor for awhile would be a problem. When using water-based polyurethane, it is first recommended to put on a sanding sealer. To me, the sanding sealer looked like it was watered-down polyurethane, but it did the job. I put on a number of coats of poly, and it did dry quickly; to me, it felt dry to the touch in a half hour, and I only had to wait an hour between coats.

With the walls up and painted and the floor done, I was starting to get a nice sense of accomplishment which is usually followed by some slacking-off.

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#1

Re: Kitchen Renovations, Part 3

05/15/2010 12:43 AM

I am doing drywall in my house, but with an interesting twist that may interest many engineers.

I am thinking of laying PEX tubing on top of the vapor barrier and insulation and then covering it with drywall. I already have infloor heat, but the greater the 'radiative' surface, the lower the heating medium temperature can be.

What I will be doing is making all the walls radiators!

However, reading somewhere I have seen that there is a temperature limit for gypsum - 120 degrees. This is going to take some further research.

Coldspot.

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#3
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Re: Kitchen Renovations, Part 3

05/15/2010 4:09 AM

This may not very worrisome. The increased heat-exchange surfaces may allow you to reduce the water temperature below 120°F.

Something else doesn't quite compute in the info you have received. Gypsum wallboard is a fire-resistant cladding for steel beams, for instance. (Yeah, the paper on one side burns, but the gypsum transmits the heat slowly to the other side.) However, this principle may be for a one-time short-term situation rather than for prolonged exposure.

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#5
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Re: Kitchen Renovations, Part 3

05/15/2010 1:09 PM

Putting Pex in the wall has been done lots of times. Both in floor and wall heating uses mixing valves in order to limit the temperature of the water. The beauty of this type of system is that you keep the water temp around the 80 deg. F range. It is radiant, not convective or conducting. Just think of bare skin on a 120 deg. surface. You are in the second/ third degree burn range quickly.

Go for your your wall heat, as you have the basic infrastructure already. The only things that would concern me is proper controls (zoning) and allow for a high point vent to purge the air.

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#2

Re: Kitchen Renovations, Part 3

05/15/2010 3:28 AM

" a nice sense of accomplishment which is usually followed by some slacking-off. "
Yeah .
(Sanding floors kick up a heck of a lot of dust, did you tape poly sheeting over all the doorways?)
Del

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Re: Kitchen Renovations, Part 3

05/17/2010 9:38 AM

I covered the doorways with some old sheets, but the sanding machine I rented didn't kick up much dust at all. The machine had a vacuum bag attached that I had to empty often, it and picked up all the saw dust.

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#4

Re: Kitchen Renovations, Part 3

05/15/2010 7:34 AM

Interesting entry, frank20.

Over here in the uk there are (I think) something like 3 different types of board. Bog standard, flame retardent, and moisture proof. Only 2 manufacturers. Most common question on DIY forums is "which way do I face the board". Bit odd since it usuallty says "This face outward" (or similar) on the board.

Putting up battens and nailing the stuuf up seems to be the norm. 'Dot and dab' is a whole lot quicker - any notions of why that might not be good/bad? Another Q is what if you want to tile (say) a kitchen. Tiling direct onto board may lead to problems if you later want to change tiles, as I understand because it will rip all the plasterboard down. An alternate method I've seen suggested is to fix up a hardboard (over the plasterboard) layer first.

Conventional drywalling is fine in new-build, but older houses can present problems. My own main base hasen't got a single wall that is true. The brickwork is so old that drilling a straight hole into it is near on impossible. Clearing off the lose crud and 'gluing' it seemed to work well. Once up, the entire thing takes on a sort of self-suporting form. To remedy the brickwork would take an age, and probaly end up with replacing entire walls.

I've gone for tiling direct onto plasterboard (time will tell), and have yet to address the bits behind the oven (). Worst part of such a job is doing it on a budget and all those 'I'll do it later' jobs. 15 years and I'm still fixing stuff up . A fair number of building inspectors would shoot me on the spot. My own place, I hasten to add, so I can get away with experimenting here.

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