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Workbench Creations is the place for conversation and discussion about do-it-yourself (DIY) projects. This DIY blog will feature projects completed by its owner as well as projects completed by other do-it-yourselfers. Workbench Creations is the place where DIYers can discuss ideas, learn about what others have done, and share their expertise.

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Vegetable Oil Heating Revisited Part 3

Posted April 02, 2008 10:01 AM by frankd20

Here is the continuation of my vegetable oil heating system. Check out part one and two here.

Oil Burner

The heart of my burner is the preheater block and the nozzle; these two parts haven't changed from my original design. What I did add, is a pressure regulator type valve inside the nozzle. This consists of just a spring and a ball bearing, and it helps keep the nozzle from dripping when the system is off. I didn't come up with this design, but it does help eliminate any drip. I also experimented with having the stepper run backward a few turns when the system shut off, but in the end it wasn't necessary, although may be something I incorporate in the end just to be sure I don't drip any oil.

Temperature Control

The oil/air heater block is just an aluminum block about six inches long, with three holes in the back, and one in the front. In the back, one hole is for air, one is for oil, and the third is for the cartridge heater with the hole in the front for the nozzle.

The temperature of this block is regulated with a temperature controller, which is set at 180deg (although I have found the system will fire fine even at 160deg). As an extra safety I connected a thermal snap switch, which will trip at about 300deg. This switch is wired in series, with the flame eye so it will trip the system if the preheater ever gets this hot. The temperature controller is set to warm the block when there is a call for heat. When the temperature hits 180deg, the burner will fire. If the temperature of the block ever goes above 195 or below 165, it will shut the system down.

Retention Head

The last part of the system is the retention head. The standard retention head appears to be made from a stamped piece of metal. I found that although this retention head works, the flame it produces is very long and narrow. The standard flame from an oil burner is usually shorter and bushier, and this is what I was going for based on the size of my flame chamber. To duplicate this type of flame I made a retention head based on a companies design, which looks more like a turbine. The retention head is made from a piece of stainless steel with a bunch of cuts in it, which are then bent into the turbine shape and inserted in the flame tube. This produced a nice flame that was very similar to a standard oil burner flame that was less than a foot long, which is the depth of my flame chamber.

Boiler

When my burner was all set, I decided to make a slight modification to my boiler. The change was to replace the chamber liner with fire bricks like the kind used in a kiln. The advantage of these bricks is that they protect well, but once they get hot, the surface glows red and will burn up any residual oil.

That completes my rebuild. It's a good thing for me that I have two boilers, both a gas and an oil one, which can heat my house. My system is wired so that I can choose my boiler with a switch; but if the temperature ever drops below 45, it will switch to the other boiler. Now my only problem is how to collect and filter over 1000 gallons of used vegetable oil to 5 microns or better, but that's a topic for another post.

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Anonymous Poster
#1

Re: Vegetable Oil Heating Revisited Part 3

12/07/2008 3:53 PM

i am setting up a syphon system sold by craig kepner which has a pencal type heater in an alumn. block . it works well but about every 30 hours im going off on saftey because of dirty electrodes and retention head gets gummed up after 2-3 days of running and i have to burn it clean with a torch. im running at 230 deg f with 9 lbs of air. got any ideas why im getting oil deposits ?

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Re: Vegetable Oil Heating Revisited Part 3

12/08/2008 6:15 PM

I can't say exactly why you are getting so many deposits, but I had this problem in the past. The main reason for deposits I have found is that you have a drip from the nozzle when the system is off, often it happens right when it shuts down or while the block is heating up.

This really depends on how you are feeding the oil to the system, my system provides pressure at a fixed flow rate. You will have to search for this but you can add a small ball bearing and spring inside the nozzle, so that no oil comes out until it has some pressure behind it. You will also want to add a solenoid that opens when the system is off to relieve the pressure in the oil line and block to relieve the pressure. Neither of these will work if you are pulling the oil in with the siphon effect.

Second you said your heater block is running at 230, I was running mine at 180 but recently turned it up to 195 because I felt it gave a slightly cleaner burn. If you have the pre heat temp too high it can cause the oil to oxidize and get gummy which will clog the heater block and nozzle.

Third if you can have your air stay on for a short time after the burner has shut off, it will help blow the residual oil out of the nozzle. You may also experiment with turning up the air pressure a little, depending on the nozzle you have they burn better if you over fire them a little.

Good luck, it just takes a lot of adjustment. I have been running and working on my system for a while but now the retention head does stay clean and dry for me.

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