Hot Water Electric Boiler 600 Gallons Heater Burst

One possible reason is that the heating elements were energized before the tank was full of water.

On the vessel top there we installed Float Sensor if the water level is below that sensor wont open heater. And it is working perfectly

Why not give all the information in the original post next time?

Are there chlorides or other contaminants in the water that could cause premature corrosion of the heating element sheaths?

Could the elements have been intended for wiring in star configuration, but were actually wired in delta?

It seems odd that the elements aren't in a multiple of 3. (That might not cause any failure, but it would create an unbalanced load.)

We have make Delta connections.

Tell me If water is having chlorides . Is it effects Stainless steel body of the heater?

And what about connections. Is it Star or Delta?

Why not give all the information in the original post next time?

I don't know if your water has chlorides; that's why I was asking you.

It may be that the SS sheaths are the wrong grade; e.g., maybe they should be 316L rather than plain 316. Or even some other alloy such as Inconel.

If the individual heating elements are rated for 240V, but are supplied by a 415V system, they need to be wired in star (also called Y or wye). Check the actual element rating.

I agree with Tornado, these elements seem to be wired incorrectly....

3Ø at bottom

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html

Please advise the outcome of the telephone call that has been made to the equipment manufacturer.

Please advise why this information was not revealed in the original post.

CALL THE MANUFACTURER!

Voltage too high at heater. Many OEM will make equipment for multiple voltages. Recheck the wiring to make sure that the voltage to the heater is proper. And that the voltage to the heater is what the heater is rated for.

Was the faulty part made in China?

If so, that's a perfectly normal service life by Chinese standards and you should just keep renewing the item every 15 to 20 days.

As someone involved in purchasing and selling quality products, China has plenty of manufacturers and while some are rubbish others are of good quality. Same goes for Mexico.

Perhaps some travel or interaction with these (as you called them in a previous post "sh*t holes") would help to remedy your very one-sided personal bias.

My Chinese Mandarin teacher used to openly boast to our class about how "clever" the Chinese were in their ability to fool stupid Westerners with their fakes and their counterfeits.

If you want to turn a blind eye to what's going on over there that's your choice.

Thank you for your advice but I'll be keeping my distance.

These are just a few examples and not even the worst but I'm sure you don't want to hear about those.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kea87ILzOpQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVXubFu7GZM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0bNf-jcVU0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLXJBYbuV8w

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eb20RAip3l0

A major supplier I work with once had their entire factory copied right down to the wall fittings, be they functional or not! (this was quite a few years ago now however)

It still doesn't change my views on the country in general, and if anything I would say it is getting better not worse with regard to intellectual property theft and counterfeit products (which we all know and agree still happens). The country culture is changing, and their adaption of western style consumerism is helping to drive it.

i may be wrong and you are right but I've seen and heard too much to share your optimism.

I didn't expect to change your mind completely, only give you a different view point on some of the positives I have seen.

I appreciate and understand your point of view.

Probably, the heating element was subjected to over current at short period of time.

Could be a faulty batch of heating elements (it happens). Contact the supplier or manufacturer directly for advice and replacements under warranty.

If you are using a poor quality supplier consider switching to a better one. You get what you pay for after all.

Heater elements are properly filled with a heat conductive(but not electrically conductive) material. Examine the heater wires. If they have melted, the heaters did not have the correct filling to conduct the heat from the wire to the shell and hence to the water.Badly made heaters have retained air inside = oxidizes the wire to failure

Analyze a sample of the filler at a commercial mineral analysis lab.

there are many labs.

Another fail mode is mineral build up on the exterior. This interferes with the heat flow and leads to hot spots = fails.

The OP shouldn't have to do this as it appears to be a warranty problem. The responsibility falls back on the supplier (and manufacturer in the end), not the user to lab test the product to prove it is faulty or out of spec especially given the low relative cost of the product in question and short failure period.

_{Jack - Also an industrial heater supplier.}

Well, if he has stuff from China involved , he may find he has zero warranty as the supplier will blame the installer etc., so you need to know these details for your own satisfaction so you know what is going on.

The OP never actually mentioned China or purchasing directly from an overseas manufacturer (bypassing the local supplier (if any)) where these sort of warranty issues could be a concern.

At this point it is all conjecture without further details from the OP.

Water pressure too high?

Did you mean 4 elements? How did you connect them?

I believe that you cannot properly use/balance 4 elements in a 3 phase system......

What voltage are the elements? This will tell you how they need to be connected.

Asking us as to whether they should be wye or delta connected, may indicate where the problem lies.

Cheap Chinese elements usually fail, either through age or being over driven by too much current, by "expanding".....

What is the operating pressure of this "hot water" heater ? The OP referred to it as a "boiler" . Is it possible that the heating element's outer shell cannot withstand this unit's operating pressure and water leaks into it causing it to burn out ?

Are you talking about the tank bursting, because that should never happen if the tank is fitted with a proper sized and rated pressure relief valve?

Also, if properly sized, is the operation of the relief valve tested periodically to insure that it will open at the proper pressure?