What is this Wiring Harness Connection Called

That's what I'm looking for.... thanks

Just have to remove the broken one inside the female.

And thinking out loud.... pulling real hard on the broken male wire until the wire or fitting comes out..

I have to ask... there are wires for all the pins including the "broken" one?

No, the 6 pin connector has 5 wires for 5 pins, you can see an empty slot at #4.

Molex, great,.... I know I can make headway now.

Thanks for the link.

Thanks, I'll look into it. It wouldn't be the first time, I bought a set of something just for a small part/piece of it.

good recommendations

How to video...

special tools....

Just was talking to a co-worker, his bringing in pins tomorrow and explained to me how to crimp it with out the required tool,... lol

Not sure about the grease - if the wires are handling signal, rather than power, a little conductive grease in the wrong place might cause all kinds of problems.

Try without, first -

After rereading, I can't solder the wire, because the plug is there for a reason. Even thou the last time this plug has been disconnected prior to this time was 30 years ago. If I solder it, I can garantee, that I would need to access it before Summer's up.

I don't know if you meant do that for all the connections, but I'd just do it for the broken one and leave the other 4 as is.

I'm only going to do it to the ones needed it... I want to get it back on the road where it belongs.

A really nice looking solder job! You have to look carefully to even see that they are indeed soldered. That had to have been done while the wires and connectors were new/unoxidized.

Long day for me yesterday... I had picked up solder earlier this past week, for such a connection on a different location on the center console.

Crimped or soldered will work... What you need to do if you need the wires soldered is;

Soldered is preferable but Before pulling any wire out...make sure to label and mark each wire! Color coded to each corresponding hole on the molex connector!

All solderings are done outside of the moulded plastic molex body!

first solder each wire to the pin(s), (male or female depending on type).

then insert each already soldered pin(s) to the corresponding hole on the molex plastic!

3) Try to pull /tug each wire out to test if they stay and are locked in place!

Maybe this will help...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5_58o0WaTM

Well, it could be from Molex, but there are many other companies that make many different kinds and styles of connectors. You can get lost in Mouser or DigiKey trying to find the right one!

I never knew the name, but they're common connectors on vehicles. GA to you for knowing the name!

Stopped at radio shack and pick up a kit, also picked up a removal tool. Won't get to it tonight, but I'm confidence of moving on more than this morning.

"An old 1986 911 Targa - cool car and those once unloved 1980's 911's have become hot. Heck, even the Targa's are now hitting some big numbers (older 911's)."

& if you would like to 'Teslaise' it - Michael Bream has kits - http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=224

Would make a classic last even longer, methinks. & no more oil stains!

Agreed, I had 30 years of enjoyment from it, I'll post pictures of it.

I like to keep it close to original as possible, at like for future reference.

But with this, there really wasn't much spare wire length. When I was removing the center console, I needed as much length as possible.

Unless of course there's a wire lengthener. ;-).

Here's some pic's I took a year ago last spring.

Good looking car! I just read an article in Road and Track about a 1984 Porsche 911 coupe. The person writing the article wrote about a Burgundy 911 he restored, drove it a year and sold it for $34K or so. That's a lot of money for an '84!

Not really, I just went through reinsuring mine. On a scale of 1-5 with show room condition being a 1, which is $60,000.00. Mine it's under just under in the rating at a 2 @ $45,000.00

This surprised me, I had in mind of around $35,000.00 value. (new base price was $38,000)

A little over 10 years ago, I came within a heartbeat of selling it for $12,000.00, it was worth $15,000 to $18,000.00 to a knowledgable buyer, so at $12,000.00 was more then fair. We were just about to finish the deal, and the potential buyer ask why I was selling. I told him I had health issues and I needed to settle. He then backed out, and said he'd like to think about it. He then called later and offered $5,000.00 Cash on the spot right here, right now.... You know to help me out. I told the bastard to buzz off.

On this one, I had it serviced at a Porsche dealership, always had the records and the Porsche stamp in my maintenance records. After 10 years, I started to do the servicing myself, I enjoyed it. I also found out.

I wasn't going to put carpeting in until fall, but I had a new skin put on the targa top, and the upholstery guy, didn't know what he was doing. (He did it 15 years ago)

He claimed it wasn't fitting, I wanted to look at it, but he torn it off, it was replaced, still didn't fit right, (seams flipped up and would catch the wind) when I picked it up. And was talking to him, he explained, why. I told him, the reason it doesn't fit is you have it on backwards. Should have done it myself.

So as I was waiting on him, I replace the carpeting, which I originally planned on replacing it in the late fall/winter.

Hi,

This is a connector which is manufactured by a company called MOLEX. Similar 4 pin connectors are used in PC Power supplies. You should be able to extract the broken pin from the housing by pressing in the clips on the body of the pin. No need to change the entire connector. Your local electronic component store is sure to stock the loose pins.

Regards

Shabeer Ismail

South Africa

Radio shack had them.

You're lucky to still have a Radio Shack. We used to have 5 or 6 local electronics stores in the Sacramento area, not counting the several Radio Shacks. Now I believe all the RS's are gone, and we're down to a single Fry's.

Yes, not many survived, But its looking sad.

It's in a mall of about a 35' x 80' shop. It used to have stud hanging from the wall and shelves in the center, but now the center shelves are remove so there is only stuff hanging from the walls, mostly cell phones stuff.

There is so much empty space in the center, one could almost get a pick-up game of basketball.

All of the Radio Shacks are turning into "smart" phone marketing centers. What a bunch of dumbesses.

When Communist Red China invades, all little Johnny will be able to do is tap or squeeze on the gorilla glass of his smart phone, and squeal like a little girl. People! Life is not a video game, damnit!

I used to love Radio Shacks electronic kits.

I put together a couple dozen Heathkits, a few Knight kits (from Allied, if I recall correctly), and a few from other sources, but I don't remember any kits from Radio Shack/Tandy.

I had been buying electronic components from Allied for around 15 years When Tandy bought them out around 1970. Very soon after that, I noticed that the quality of components I received from Allied/Radio shack dropped significantly (from industrial quality to consumer quality, aka 'cheap'). I quit buying from them, and rarely ever went to Radio Shack stores unless I had no alternative. To this day, whenever I hear "Radio Shack", I automatically think 'cheap'.

As late as a few years ago maybe 2-3 years, they had various kits, robotics and smaller programmable controllers experiments.

Maybe not all of them, I did notice the quality between different radio shacks varied.

I think they still have children's Arduino kits available, but for those who want "serious" micro-controller components, look elsewhere, sadly.

Actually, of late, I must confess to finding a lot of what I would use on Amazon. Ebay usually has offerings of the same goods at a lower bid price. At some point, when I want a project to actually make real progress, I end up waiting on FedEx or UPS to show up, so price starts to become less of a challenge than arrival time.

same here, (3) orders this past week from Amazon for me.

There are some that were just franchised...not company owned stores, which should explain the product variations that was noticed.

Anyhow Radio Shack (Tandy Corp.) has folded, about 3-4 years ago and therefore disappeared from most states since! Any left over opened local stores that may still be carrying the Radio Shack's brand may pobably just independent or former franchise holders?

FWIW on the above info!

It's a bit interesting to note that the only relatively local (for me, but it's still 50 miles away) place that sells electronic components (to my knowledge), is a Fry's store, located at the intersection of Tandy Drive and Tandy Way. It was a Tandy store for only a couple of years, perhaps 20 years ago.

Radio Shack went under bankrupt in Feb 2015 and the BK was final in Oct.

I read this in a recent Popular Mechanics article. "Walking into the post-bankruptcy RadioShack feels like guest-starring in a burgeoning engineer's fever dream: aisle after aisle of tiny parts and power connectors and remote-control toys, DIY kits for building all manner of electronic games, stacks of the latest in headphones and speakers. Near the front door, there's an entire aisle of drones that can do barrel rolls over the shelving units. And you can play with anything you want."

The three Radio Shacks in our valley closed, so I haven't been to one lately. I'm interested to see if the "new" Radio Shack has gone back to their roots.

No, not in our area. It's no longer a Hobbyist store. It's very simular to a brick and mortar Verizon store, or cellcom store. Very little for electronic parts, Not fun at all.

Me too.

Somewhere I have a stack of their pamphlets...

A small thin screwdriver can be used to push the locking tongue back to allow removal, or the correct tool, it looks like a piece of tube, can be used.

But any amateur DIYer for cars can repair this easily.......new pins are easily available and really cheap.....

BUT, if you are not careful, you could easily ruin the parts completely.....

A small thin screwdriver can be used to push the locking tongue back to allow removal,....

coworker told me yesterday, that what you need to do.

But any amateur DIYer for cars can repair this easily.......new pins are easily available and really cheap.....

My problem was, I didn't even know what it was called. Knowing made it a lot easier for describing and sourcing one..

BUT, if you are not careful, you could easily ruin the parts completely.....

One thing about a Porsche that I knew before I even bought it, "If you have to ask about the price, you can't afford one."

The pins are not just Porsche (by the way, think of "Porsche as having an "r" on the end when speaking the name! If you did not know already!!), they are used in many plugs and sockets, not just in cars......take the photos to an electrical outlet or car parts shop, you might want to measure the pin width and length.....just in case!!

If one pin is broken, photograph/mark all the wiring and replace all pins and sockets.....they are due to break shortly as well!!

there are parts interchangeable with Mercedes Benz as well as other European cars.

And they built some pretty good Tanks also. Too bad technology wasn't up to snuff with their designs, then again, maybe not.... if that was the case we may all be saluting and yelling "Sieg Heil!"

My personal take was that the "boss" took too much on and with little knowledge military and experience, screwed things up big time. Which was great for the Allies......

I know that the Allies were planning that WW2 should have lasted a couple of years longer than it actually did, as they were building airports in Turkey, a neutral country at the time, to allow Germany to be bombed from both directions at the same time, but they never got used....

Germany, under the huge weight of Britain and the USA in the south and west, Russia in the east and total air superiority, simply collapsed quicker than anticipated. Thankfully!

My father was one of many in repair and construction battalions that was personally sent to Turkey (1941?) by Churchill....he spoke Turkish with the light accent of Izmir I was told and was constantly, on his many visits back after the war, called the "Englishman from Izmir"!! (Though technically, he was of Scottish descent!)

What I personally find very galling today, is the numbers of British, American and Germans who believe that the Allies were "too hard" on the Germans in early 1945, the bombing of Dresden for example.

People like Air Marshall Harris were publicly "Pilloried" for such actions, Churchill did not support him for no valid reason, but Harris did a great job. He has a statue to him and his men, erected fairly recently, long after his death, sadly.

Also, the British government has officially apologised for the actions of the Royal Air Force for no reason. But at the same time in early 1945, the ovens in many Concentration camps were running at full blast still, especially in ones outside of Germany.

Allied POWs were sent on route marches to nowhere in particular, being shot if they fell out of line, also Dresden was the center of radio communication for the eastern front and a very valid military target, as was Hamburg and other cities.

Plus he Allies were not convinced that the end was that near.....though many have written that they knew this AFTER the war ended, all liars.....clever through hindsight!!

So such military actions were fully correct and valid and shortened the war for all concerned, far better than if we had all stood around and simply waited.....

Rant over!! Sorry.....

My take on it, was that if Japan would have held off attacking Pearl Harbor, delaying the United States entering the war, there would be much we could do about it.

But that's a lot of 'What If's".

The concept of Porsche diesel over electric drives was way ahead of his time, because the problem with the winning bid on the Tiger tanks, had complicated mechanical transmissions that broke down. And Porsches concepts is was away of the technology.

Porsche built the 1990's Mercedes 500E, later called the E500 for Mercedes. I've never driven one, so I can't tell you about the drive, but I've heard it was a monster in it's day.

A lot of parts between the two are interchangeable.

All the Porsche car guys pronounce it Por sha with a strong accent on the Por and very slight accent at the end. Well, that's how it's pronounced here in the US.

Something that concerns me is that just because that "looks" like a molex connector, that is not necessarily so. "molex" is American, and Porsche is definitely German thus the Porsche connector is most likely Metric! If you replaced the entire connector (both ends) with a molex connectors, it should work fine, but I would not bet on a molex pin being a good fit to a German connector.

Bill

Yes the molex pins are larger diameter. But I got enough info to go on from here.

The only SAE standard on a Porsche is the seatbelt restrain bolt thread which is a 7/16-20 UNF pitch thread, now the bolt head size for the wrench or socket is a 17MM bolt head.

I believe the reason for this bastardized bolt is that Porsche had to satisfy US Safety standards for import.

At least it seems there is a reason for it. That's not always the case, on my oldish Mondeo (UK) the bolts are nearly all metric, but heads are often non-standard. I recently changed the rear brake discs, the calliper mounting bracket had M10 setbolts, with 13mm A/F heads, which were well rusted. It would have been easy to round them off and then I'd have had a problem, but I drove a 12mm socket on and got them out, and they were tight. Of course I replaced the bolts with proper M10s with 17mm heads (and zinc plated!). I don't know why Ford do this, M10 bolts x 25 or 30mm long must be turned out by the million, and I'd be surprised if they weren't cheaper than specials.

Just had a look on the internet and saw something I wasn't aware of - there are 3 (at least) different sets of standard head A/Fs for metric bolts - DIN, ANSI/ISO and JIS. Some are the same for 2 or all 3, but plenty are different. The bolt dia, pitch etc are identical, so how crazy is that? The DIN figures are the ones I'm familiar with. To my surprise, the table seems to have copied in from XL, can't usually do it. I'm a fan of metric bolting, and thought it had rescued us from this kind of thing.

Wow, I'm learning a lot from this foul up of mine... I didn't realize that there is actually a standard of different bolt heads.

As far as stripping a bolt head... Been there done it, just last year. I bought a set of this, and it was not problem.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/52061/0009/009.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=52061&sid=SPDxGPROD&gclid=CMmbzIbL68wCFZaEaQodsBEGQw

That looks a useful piece of kit.

Thinking about it again, maybe my M10s were to JIS, and rustier than I thought!

In practice the different A/Fs is not usually too much of a problem as long as you've got the right wrenches. I used to think it a bit odd to make metric socket sets in every mm A/F from about 8mm to as big as your set went, although many of these sizes aren't used on DIN metric bolts. But if you might have some ANSI/ISO and JIS (and rusted heads) to deal with it can be useful.

Also if you buy bolts from a stockist (in UK) they will usually be to DIN. Though I had a case of a flanged 18" pipe with M27 bolts (a non-preferred size) which should be 41mm A/F, but were supplied 42mm. We had 41mm kit so had to use a shifter, fortunately it wasn't a critical situation.

When I was removing the seats on my Porsche, the problem I had was on the seat bolt retainer, and back seat hinge, (as well as the seatbelt bolt) it's a low profile bolt head so the face of the bolt head was only about 1/8" (3MM) for my wrench to slip on and bite. I stripped them only because I realize late, that my sockets and box end wrench (Craftsman) had about a 1/16" (1-2MM chamfer) on the wrench before it could latch on the face of the bolt.

I'm thinking a Snap-On wrench may not have this chamfer, or it's a smaller chamfer.

Ended up using a channel wrench to remove the bolt and ordered new ones. Yes, this was a learning experience, but I do enjoy it.

Grind off the chamfer on a replacement socket, keep it just for your Porsche!! I have made "special" tools for various cars and other things since I was a teenager....

I have even turned metric hex tools into imperial ones...!!

Maybe if I would have know it before hand. But I already purchased a 72" tool box already because my 48" tool box was overflowing fro too many tools. (Which I was going to sell my 48" tool box to my nephew,... Until when I moved all my tools from the 48" to my 72" as well as the tools that didn't have a home, I still needed the 48". Which is nice, no clutter.

72" tool box! Very nice!

For me, I have three tool chests now. The old original 24", followed by the 27" and finally another 27" a little over a year ago. Add to that two shelves of cordless tools, one shelf of airless spray guns and four tool bags I take with me to my rentals. I'm not sure how I acquired so many tools, but by all means, I'm happy to have them.

That is what is great is to have them organized. When working on my Porsche last year. The regulator went out. I also replace the air springs on the hood. The tool that helped me was a 15" pair of forceps. It was great to open a drawer and reach for it instead of looking for it.

I do have a special drawer though that doesn't hold tools in this tool box., it keeps a bottle of white lighting that a contractor I hired last fall gave me for Christmas that he brewed himself. Saving it for a special occasion.... Like for a Tuesday or something... Because Tuesday's only come around once a week. :-)

You beat me to it about grinding off the chamfer. I've been known to do that. Makes all the difference!

My apologies, but we obviously think along similar lines, can't be bad!!

Yep! I've done that too; both on sockets and on closed-end wrenches.

I've done that on wrenches also.... I should say modified, Heated it, Bent the body at a 90 degree.

Its just too bad, I didn't notice the chamfer on the socket until it was too late, I did use the bolt-out kit. That did make it easy, unfortunately, I had to replace the bolt.

As far as the connector, instead of replacing the pin,... can't seem to find the right pin diameter,... I'm just going to replace the whole connector with a Molex.

This carpeting project is interfering with my list of projects that I want to get going on.

I was working on the seats of a BMW e36 (328i) and I had the same thing happen. The Youtube video said to use a pair of Channel Locks to remove the bolt. I tried the socket and it slipped twice. That's when I decided to use the Channel Locks - worked perfectly!

I guess an end wrench would've worked also. All of my sockets have a chamfer, same as my box wrenches.

When I pulled the channel locks out.... It was too late. But the easy out for stripped bolt heads worked perfectly, (I bought replacement bolts, I don't like leaving evidence that I was there. ;-)

Good point!! That would be a good way to go....

I spray such connectors occasionally with WD-40 as protection against corrosion and salt water in winter.....I have convinced myself that it helps.....

MOlex and AMP made very similar connectors. Look carefully at the rear surfaces of the connector housings for tiny ID engravings. You will usually see numbers as well identifying locations. In my experience, AMP put their name more often than Molex did. To boot, the pins look similar but are not interchangeable due to different retainer design.

Thanks,

Yes, I'm finding that out.