Rediscovering Old Stuff

Anything like this?

Hmmmmm BOILED line seed oil is no good!

Please do elaborate....

Commercial Boiled Line seed oil is obtained by exposing the oil to heat and by adding metallic drying agents like Manganese, Iron, and Lead (among other chemical substances) Besides having a darker color, which may stain the cloth to be protected, boiled oil can be from moderately to very toxic, depending on the formula used by the manufacturer and the intended use.

On the other hand, "raw" linseed oil has no additives, also a much lighter color and better plasticizing properties, making it more suitable for oiling garments, as it increases flexibility of the treated cloth.

The formula I used is similar to those you can find in the web: 2 parts of beeswax, one part of raw (instead of boiled) linseed oil and one part of turpentine.

Interesting,,,, the only thing I can ever recall using boiled linseed oil for was interference press fit parts, usually, forged wheels onto axles.

Linseed oil may generate free radicals sufficient to start a fire, especially if fabrics saturated with this oil are stacked up, wadded up, lying about.

Paraffin wax only lasts for a while, and it collects dirt.

There was another water-proofing chemical out there that was all the rage a couple years ago, but I cannot remember the name of it now.

No paraffin wax here, only natural bees wax.

Yes linseed oil may start a fire, but not under the conditions mentioned in this post.

True that, I think your mixture is probably just fine. There used to be a way of treating some low mol. wt. PE to make it oxidize like paraffins to synthetic fatty acids. The calcium soaps of these are extremely impervious to water, and I was able to even get paraffin acids calcium soaps to stop rust on a steel shaft near brackish water.

I liked the word "brakish" you used... didn´t know it (I´d call it briny, but this word is probably more related to flavor and not to salt content)

water terms:

Fresh water: 0-200 TDS

Brackish water: 1000-10,000 TDS

Saline water: >10,000 TDS

Brine: > 35,000 TDS

Seawater: > 35,000 TDS

Brackish water typically contains TDS in concentrations ranging from 1,000 milligrams per liter (mg/l) to 10,000 mg/l. Saline water or salt water has more than 10,000 mg/l TDS. And, brine is very salty water (TDS greater than 35,000 mg/l).Seawater typically is very salty (TDS >35,000 mg/l).

There seems to be a gap between what I would call fresh water and brackish water. Texas Water Development Board does not make the distinction, as I assume they declare anything below 1000 TDS to "fresh" water, although some of it would not be palatable at all, although it might sustain human life.

instead of being called fresh water.... the term potable water may be more appropriate.

fit or suitable for drinking

Not all fresh water is potable water. Sorry. Potable water, at least here in the States, has to be sent through at least some process, possibly as minimal as rudimentary chlorination of a delay tank.

Certainly, fresh water is in range to be potable, and brackish waters are generally deemed too salty for good human health, but may be just fine for cattle, strangely enough.

I remember the term oilskins from waaay back (well over 60 years ago, when I was a Boy Scout), but somewhere along the way, I got it associated with a plasticized cloth, like the red plaid picnic tablecloths I remember from roughly the same time period.

I certainly agree that most work clothes don't last like they used to...

I have several sets of Dickies that look exactly like what you have in the picture. I buy them at Walmart for ~$20 - $25 a set and they last 2 - 3 years as everyday work pants which is pretty impressive given what I do to them.

I had a set of $50 - $100 work pants someone gave me once. Said they would be the last pair of work pants I would ever own. They lasted about year before they wore out like a cheap set of no names.

I have had two Walls (WalMart knockoff of Carhartt) jackets that lasted longer than my real Carhartt. I think that some of the fabric "toughening" measures actually increase susceptibility to abrasion.

the weakness is the zipper or buttons... otherwise I had some pretty good like with it.

I noticed that too with the two Carhartt winter coats I have owned as well. Everyone who has them brags Carhart up for being superior yet mine wore through way faster than my cheapos did.

They were good but not 3x the price of my cheapies good. The zipper handle broke off one and the pocket buttons locked so tight I ripped their bases right out of the fabric on both of them within the first winter of use.

I also have yet to figure out why their detachable hoods have 4 buttons on the coat collars and 5 on the hoods so they never fit right to the coats right. Both jackets and their included hoods were that way and most everyone I met had the same problem. (they're also the only buttons that didn't hold as tight as they needed to.)

The only explanation ever got from the stores that sold them was "That's just the way they come." You sell the jacket that has 4 buttons on the collar for the hood and the matching hood for it has five on a completely different pattern? WTF?

I agree, also the complaint I have with Carhartt is the fit sucks.... you. when you try them on in the fitting room, you have to go through all the motions, you would wearing them, and not just slip them on.

I never did, but one should see where they are made. Is it domestic, or elsewhere.

There was a rumor floating around some years back that production moved to China? I think the pocketed tee shirts were moved, as these are not as heavy cotton as some other work tee shirts (long or short sleeved). I found this to be a disappointment.

The last thing I need in a power plant is what I think to be a cotton shirt actually being a cheap poly blend with minimal cotton. Poly-fabric melts and sticks to skin when there is a fire, scary stuff.

Reminiscing,... I hated when a new pair of jeans were purchased... they were so heavy and stiff, it took wearing them for a few days and a few washes so that they were comfortable...

And on the farm, the jeans actuall wore through the fabric, especially the thighs, youd still wear them, but not for baling hay...

Girlfriends at the time thought the old holey jeans were sexy.... guess she was on to something... a fad setter and didn't even know it.

but it was kinda sad when you had to finally replace them with new when they are worn out because it all starts over again.

I keep mine until it is "dangerous" to keep wearing them, or embarrassing, which ever comes first. Kinda like the 5 year, 50,000 mile warranty.

Those were the work shirts too, especially the flannel ones... the sleeves were the first to go... we kept tearing the sleeves off when they got ratty, so they wouldn't catch on things like PTO's.

They say you can waterproof clothes with WD-40.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_h-WOQc4-4

No doubt you can use WD40 for waterproofing a lot of stuff, but as it´s formula contains mainly petroleum distillates it can be very irritant to the skin, mainly during a prolonged exposure to this product

WD40 is 100% fish oil

Is that why it smells like fish and chips when I try to start my charcoal with it?

What about these firehose pants, for $64, anybody ever try these?

Duluth Trading Company?

Rather than cargo pants, I have found game vests (Filson, could be others) to be versatile, with a range of pocket sizes, and pretty durable construction. In one of those, I could carry around enough tools for about 90% of tasks I might encounter.

on down side of carrying tools is the weight. if you no longer have hips to lock your pants up to keep them from falling down.

Reverse gumdrop? Around here, a lot of women appear as gum drops, and some of us guys too, but some are reverse gum drop, and after about 1000 rounds of being chewed out by the "boss", pretty much assless.

You've reached that age too? I've had my pants drop while carrying a load of stuff using both arms. I re-snug the belt at least 3 times per day now. Elastic top pants of any style, even shorts are definitely not a possibility anymore. Where do the hips go when you pass 60 years of age???

I remember the turning point distinctly... I was 36 years old. sitting at work in front of the computer... and something was pinching my belly. It was my belt.... very traumatic for me. ...

Its not that I don't watch my weight, because I didn't, but because I was so active. (Spent my vacation helping bale hay on the family farm), not to mention I played sports (Basketball, Lacrosse, volleyball, racquetball, anything that you use that was round..... or round like) till I was 44.

But now I do watch my weight, I watch it pretty close... most some of the time.

Hey, and todays my birthday.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY PHOENIX! Greetings from Argentina!

Little present for you:

Thanks,... at work, when its your birthday, you bring in a treat for your co-workers. So I brought in Smoked Salmon... Regular smoked and Cajun flavored. It disappeared quickly.

Many Happy Returns! Sol is happy to have you around, it seems, so make plenty more trips around.

love the heavy belt loops with re-enforced stitching. and I'm interested.

I've had problems looking for some good work jeans. When I was on vacation last June, I didn't pack and was going to buy my clothes in Texas.... I stopped at Gander Mountain and I Purchased a variety. I was very happy with the Tactical. Black has already faded, but some of the others very well stitched. Not as heavy for say farm work like Baling hay, but very durable. I paid $70.00 for them, and looks like they came down in price.

The down side, too many pockets, .... and sometime those pleated pockets, they'll catch on a handle or something.

I went to the local Vista Paint store and purchased a pair of Stan Ray painters pants that were made in Crockett, Tx. They cost $20.00

These pants usually come only in white. Then I purchased a box of Ritz dye for $2.00

A pair of these usually last about 3 - 5 years.

If they get a hole in them, the material doesn't unravel like the material in a $60.00 pair of Levi's.

Barbour make wax in can for reproofing, that'll do if you don't want to home brew.

"Home brew" costs only a small fraction of Barbour´s price (and is much better)

Not everyone has the ability nor inclination, but as a home brewer myself I agree, the biggest problem is so many things are now 'controlled' that getting the ingredients is often a problem.

How to re-wax a canvas jacket

http://gearpatrol.com/2014/09/26/how-to-re-wax-a-canvas-jacket/