Embossing Plastics

Engraving a serial number on each part may help.

I included a serial number engraving subroutine in a CNC program. I used the bore#2 cycle to place the number and a data file/spreadsheet to keep track of the numbers used.

The numbers can be created sequentially or taken from a pre-entered file.

What are you using for the machining?

Sign it with a soldering iron !

Ink jet printing, bar code, laser marking, pad printing.

There are some interesting hand-held engraving machines made for use by hobbyists worldwide. The make that comes to mind is "Actograp". A silly word, which is why it got stuck, and worth 13 points at Scrabble incidentally, not counting double-letter squares.

No proper nouns!

Hi Guys, Thanks for your comments, I was thinking more down the lines of marking with a "branding iron", providing the part does not dissapear in a puff of smoke or that the tool gets welded to the part.

The adjustable hot-wire tools used for scorching wood do a good job. In principle, this can create a groove (not with all materials) or a charred region of plastic. But the smoke is quite toxic when you use this on plastics, so avoid breathing it.

Failing that, a fine-tipped soldering iron isn't bad.

In both cases you may need to experiment; one frequent problem (depending on the plastic) is that you can generate "threads" of material that follow the iron around and eventually stick at some random (confusing) location on the part. Some machinable plastics will scorch before they flow - that may (or not) be an advantage to you.

I'm thinking that if you have a die made, place it against the plastic, and hit it with a hammer - that mark is going to stay forever!!!

Okay lets see what we can think up right quick. Okay I got it.

Take a set of punch stamps and rig a holder up so that you can interchange (the make them off the shelf) now insulate the handle. Now wire it up to a power source with a rheostat. Perhaps a temp transducer.

Voila. A adjustable temperature plastic branding tool.

That will be 50 shekels please.

cr3

Assuming your plastic will deform suitably under heat (check that out using one of the tools suggested in #10 before having your stamp made):

If you've got a Rayburn or an Aga, just heat your (metal) stamp on the appropriate hot-plate before applying. If you're stuck at work (tough one that), you'll probably have to find something that meets health-and-safety requirements - perhaps a sized hole in the back of your stamp so it fits snugly over the tip of a temperature-controlled soldering iron - naw, you can't afford to bribe the H&S man that much - even if it turns out safer than any of the official options...

OOh I like it. Take the off the shelf punch stamp holder, drill a horizontal hole and slit it length wise. Now 2 or 3 small tapped holes for set screws to tighten with. Insert soldrering iron into hole and tighten screws. Heat is conducted from backside of stamp to stamp face via controlled temp of soldering iron.

Or something like this (sorry for quality am running out the door)

Another 50 shekels please.

cr3

Hot stamping gives you a great versatility of colors as long as you are doing it onto a flat surface. There is a stripof colored or metalized film between the stamp and the part which imparts the color to the process.

Laser etching or engraving is the latest cool process. Color is limited, but it can be done on any surface with some really amazing effects. At the EASTEC show I saw at least 8 companies selling the machines.

If you are machining the parts and they don't have to be serialized you can just incorporate the marking into the program. However some plastics are so tough that doing the engraving without burrs is very difficult, especially if the engraving is very fine.

Yes it has been around a long time, but the machinery that uesd to take up a whole room will now sit on a desk top and for a fraction of the cost. The software is much more user friendly, and the artistic effects that can be done are amazing.

3 more ideas (from my youth) of marking the parts.

1 Take a nice magnifying glass and "engrave" the initials on the part using sunlight (wear good sunglasses)

2 Take a pocket knife and scratch or cut the markings (Cadmad L ____)

3 Take cordite from bullets and place it on surface spelling out something and light it.

A final note: My granny always said "Comics and fools engrave their names on doors and tools" (The original words changed too rime - Ok it does not make sense but neither did the original)

LOL

RFID implant wire.

OK although you have gotten many suggestions as to how to stamp these plastic items I have to ask what type of material or plastic your using.

The temperature range for a good emboss depends greatly on the materials ability to hold the emboss. Some materials hold better when cold others have to be heated. some high temp plastics wont even work with heat. Some crack under impact etc etc.

I very much like the Idea of using existing alpha numeric punch stamps and I believe there is already a tooling jig out there for using multiple numbers in it. Applying the heat is the tricky part but the soldering iron idea is good. I.m just not sure if it will generate enough heat if you have a long string of characters.

Give the guys at Lutz manufacturing a call. They can make stamping or embossing tooling for just about anyone.

Their number is 520-417-9210 and talk to Hank

Thanks for your comments. The materials are standard "engineering" plastics i.e. POM (acetal) Polypropylene etc., But, because of its hydroscpic nature, never Nylon.

Polypropylene (and any other thermoplastic) should work just fine using heated stamps (though the temperature needed for the stamp will vary - pp will require a relatively high temperature).