Hi Bondy111

All M$ updates are dangerous.

I think I loaded the anti CR4 update. All other programs works fine (GIS, CAD, Open Office) it is only when I go onto CR4 that it give errors.

I must admit firstly, that I am biased against microblowz products...

Avoid their "updates", as in my opinion...most of their "updates" centre mainly on anti-piracy sh*t and spyware that screws other programs not from microsux, preventing them from running properly. Too bad if you need a non-microripoff product to get your system fully loaded.

Solution to your software issue is probably a system restore (if on) or use the excellent UBD you have to fix things up (unlikely to succeed here). I would personally scrub your disk clean, install XP and update to service pack one. Service pack one in my view is the only "decent" "update" without major interference from MS. I then disable some unused rubbish in C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Start Menu\Programs\Administrative Tools\Services...but don't go there if you don't know what you are doing.

Go the Linux way. Been hassle free, virus free and free to choose and use whatever I like.

As for your dilema with power probs, I am shocked to see that the latest "new" power cords for AC/DC adapters typically only have an "enamel" type coating on multi-stranded wire that seperates opposing polarity leads. One used to find proper "plastic" insulation and shielding seperating opposing polarity leads that form the one cable. And another stick in my jocks is the the actual connector that plugs into your laptop, the cable/connector junction is designed to fail if it is stretched, bent or disconnected/disconnected from your laptop more than a dozen times.

You clearly are experiencing some major resistance issues when you really power up your computer, so....

...the solution to your hardware issue is to replace cable with a proper one that has no shortcuts and get a decent quality connector while your at it. Taking apart the case to get to the pcb is no problem with a thin bladed knife. If you stuff up the case clips, just glue it back on and run some electrical tape over it to hold things together.

I tried to take the case apart, but could not. I took all the screws out the bottom and side, took the battery out, and got the front of it open. I couldn't free the back of the case - I suppose there is still something stopping it. If I was to get it open, how would I sort out the high resistance problem?

You might get away with just re-soldering the connection, but, if the connectors broken (beyond repair) get a new one from CPC.

GA as yours appears to be the most logical answer that fits the problems exactly....

I got it apart yesterday, looked at where the power connector connects to the motherboard, and all the pins are soldered on securely. Also, I couldn't see any loose ends etc. Now, where do all those screws go...

Do you think it is worth repairing, or should I just take my hard drive and move on?

http://www.laptop-screen.co.uk/packard-bell-easynote--r4622-laptop-dc-jack-socket-connector-10419-p.asp

Then the problem is most likely in the (moulded on) connector (the one that got hot) on the cable, take a good look there or simply cut it off (making sure you know the correct polarity first!) and solder on a new one.....

Be careful and take the old one and the laptop with you so that the size of the center hole and the overall diameter can be checked exactly. If the center hole is a tiny fraction too big (if its the connector I suspect it is) does not matter, but too small will be a disaster!!

I bought a new lead with the moulded on connector - hoping that was the problem. It has the same problem with both my power leads.

Then you have "overseen" something on the main board, for example a cracked power land on the Main board PCB. It may even be IN the PCB as some boards are multilayer..But check carefully the connector again with a magnifying glass and look carefully as to how its bonded to the main board first.....

If you are an excellent user of the soldering iron, you can tin any power lands near to the connector and give them a thick layer of solder. It you are not so good with a soldering iron, get someone who really knows what to do to do it.....

If the cracked land is inside the PCB, you need to identify local components that are soldered to this land and connect them with reasonable thickness stiff copper wire to the power connector, thus bridging the crack, again, a job for a professional only...

I accept no responsibility for damaged main boards or similar.......

Firstly GA as you appear to have identified the problem exactly as far as I can see.

Mr Bondy, how could you check this component when you cannot see the connection well (from the top) that is most probably causing the problem as it is inside a piece of plastic......it would appear (all things being equal) that the connector has broken INSIDE......(assuming that the solder side is still good and no cracked lands!)

Would there be any way of testing it?

Yes, it looks good, but I am not sure that it is a cracked connector or anything, thank you for the link.

Hello Bondy,

How are you?

I had this problem. I found a friend who had borrowed, or used the laptop while I was at work had dropped my laptop while the charger plug was still in. This damaged the MB slightly and it must have been arcing for a week or so. I took it to a store to get mended and they said the MB was damaged. I could still get the charger line in but it did not always work, and did get very warm. It was then I decided to stop using it.

I kinda have some bad luck don't you my friend?

It may be something that can be mended but, something tells me this could have been dropped before?

It would be handy if JohnDG gave a little more detail of what it was in the case he mentions, seeing as he mended it twice?

Good luck.

Hi, BB. There's not really much detail to give. The hardest part is usually getting the equipment (laptop or whatever) stripped down far enough to access the socket. Dell are good this way, because although you have to strip the thing down to the bare bones to get at the motherboard¹, they have a service manual on-line that gives step-by-step instructions. Bondiii seems to have done this part on his own - much respect!

In both the items I fixed, I just re-soldered each connection - melting the old solder & removing it with a solder pump, cleaning up the area and re-soldering. To make a larger solder area (thereby giving a bit of stress relief to help stop recurrence), I scraped off some of the protective lacquer from the copper land around the pins (where possible).

^{1 _{Remove: Hard drive, optical drive, memory module(s), micro-PCI card, CPU heatsink, CPU, hinge cover, display, keyboard, button cell, modem, speakers ... I may've forgotten a few things!}}

Hi JohnDG,

Cheers for the reply post. There seems like a never ending layer of this and that, when you are working on Laptops? And mine was totally broken, as the MB was split. If only the charger line was on the side it may not have happened. But then they would have dropped it on the side! ;=) Sometimes you just win?

Thanks and take care.

I have a habit of taking things apart. Its getting them back together that is the hard part. I didn't bother taking the RAM, micro PCI, CPU heatsink, CPU, battery, modem or speakers out. On my laptop, you unscrew the bottom, then pop out the keyboard and then there is a few other screws and some ribbon leads, which I remove, then the 'top' of the laptop comes off - the hdd has some screws underneath which need taking out, but otherwise everything else I leave in.

If anything, it was only dropped a couple of inches. I put it down the side of my bed (using it before I went to sleep) and the power cord was still in. I'm very well thanks. You?

Hi Bondy,

I am OK-ish ...................... as good as I get!

Do you have another similar plug you can try in the connector. As someone else said, (sorry I cannot recall whom) the pins may be loose. Just try to move them with pointy-nose pliers and see. That will answer one question.

Otherwise it means taking it apart, (noting which screws go where, and all the other bits and pieces of course.)

Get down to the MB and have a real good look at the connector and see if it is loose when the MB is out of the case, (if you can see how to get it out) and get a real good look at the meeting of the MB and the direct connection of the connector? This may have already been said and for that I apologise.

My MB was split into four different layers by the drop, and even though they were maybe 6 mm into the board, it was enough to screw it up! If you imagine a 'pack' of four playing cards, it was split where the card lay on each other. Linear splits I guess you could say.

This may be the time to look for the board type details and, just in case search or tell me and I will search for a new one. You most likely do not need it but the details will always be useful in the future.

My friend and please take your charger out of your computer before going to sleep!

I learned the 'hard' way and had to buy a new computer, I hope you do not have to. Though if you get down to the MB it will be a lot easier to replace the MB than get a new computer?

Take care and good luck.