Rust Remover

Use WD40.

Isn't rust normally powdery, so it is bad as substrate.

Apparently not his rust, which won't even wire-brush off.

I actually was wondering that myself also. If it is solid, and would give the primer a lot of surface texture to grab onto. I just remember like when retouching up a car cancer. if you did not remove it all, the paint was soon to be bubbling and falling off. Diddn't want that happening.

But otherwise it's a nice like ohhh 120 grit like surface.

I may wet sand it some, then make a fire to ensure it's dried out fully, then prime and paint.

No primer!!!

Get a few spray cans of spray paint that is specifically made for high temp applications...........................stove paint. Apply a couple of thin coats, and you're done.

A rust converter is fine, but you don't want to prime under stove paint.

Why no primer?

Just curious, they make the high temp primer, What would be wrong with using it?

Just curious want to make this nice and do it once ya know?

Joe

They may make high temp primer for automotive applications........exhaust pipes, etc.

I heat my house with a wood stove. Sometimes it gets hot enough to glow. I brush it down and repaint it every couple of years, and I've never seen any stove paint that called for primer. Don't go with high temp paint from the automotive store.........it won't work.

Of course, this is assuming that you're going to be using the stove. If it's decorative, that's a different story. Look for something like this. If you're going to be using the stove to burn in, you'll be doing this more than once.

I painted mine last year. Here's what it looks like after a winter of burning. Another thing on my to-do list. The rust is from keeping a big baking pan of water on top to humidify the house.

GA for you.

Very cool on this suggestion,

And the paint I have used before on other fireplaces. It is designed for it. It is rated to be just fine at `1200 degrees.

Joe

Yep,

Rustoleum Rust Reformer is the product. goes on blue turns the rust black and creates a hard shell primer for painting.

10 bucks a gallon.

I have been involved in the conservation of marine exposed artifacts so have had a lot to do with rust :-) For your rust I would use a product that sequesters the rust. There are a lot of products out there for this. Look for the expected result on the label where the rust is turned black, and that the rust killer leaves the surface primed ready for painting. One coat should do it, or two thin coats. Don't give it a chance to rerust before painting it. Mat black stove paint works very well and can be touched up occasionally.

If you insist on painting it, have it sand blasted first.

If it's not too late, I'd leave it rusty, build a few fires in it and then decide what to do, if anything.

_{bravo88, you should still be sitting on your hands.}

I would also do that myself.

Already did fire it up and it's an oldy but major heater!

It's small. It's a semi ugly metal box with legs. the actual heating area is like a 24" cube.

With 12" tall legs under it. but it's double wall. Even it is this small, it weighs close to 300 pounds. It is built like a tank!

And the double wall construction is because the whole inner firebox is surrounded by an outer layer of metal. About a 2" airgap.

And between the legs is a LARGE squirrel cage blower that blows air through this passageway. and out the top via a 10" diameter aur duct flange so you can duct the heat elsewhere.

It's awesome.

So in actuallity the painted surfaces will stay cooler that a regular fireplace will get, Because of the double layer and blower setup.

Like I said I'd leave it. it's got charater now, but the wife wants to paint it Fire Engine Red. why I don't know but well you know.....

Joe

Sounds nice. Worth some effort on your part.

And, unless you just got married yesterday, I predict a bright red stove in your immediate future. While you're at it, get it pin stripped. She'd like that extra touch.

Not a bad idea, If the thing wasn't so damm ugly! I'll get a picture of it soon. and post it.

Joe

Here she is,

And

And from the back side,

After seeing your pics, I think a good solid sandblasting down to gray metal is initially needed, followed by an application of rust remover.

That's a ton of rust to zap! LOL

Or, don't do anything to it and call it patina.

See thats actually whats weird,

It is a rust like i have never ever seen before. Maybe heat treated rust he he he.

Because as nasty rusty as that seems. you can take a white chloth and rub on it, and it stays white nothing of this rust comes off. it is the strangest rust i have ever seen.

Very rusty looking, but totally locked onto the surface.

After sandblasting down to gray metal, is there still rust to remove with a rust remover? What is the nature and purpose of this rust remover please? Or does the stove need to be put aside to collect rust again, before application?

At least you've got some nice flat surfaces. I would just take either a vibrating or orbital sander, some 100 grit sandpaper, and sand until smooth. Wipe clean with some acetone or alcohol, and you're ready to paint.

If you need any installation tips, or where to get your stovepipe, let me know.

Edit: I just remembered. I don't know how averse you are to really nasty work, but a stiff cup brush on an angle grinder would clean that thing up in a couple of hours. Wear a particle mask, hearing and eye protection.

I heated with wood for 20+ years, then moved into a place without the capability, but now am back again so nothing new here as far as heating with wood.

I'm looking forward to turning off the AC and going back to my $45 a month electric bills. Very few people heat with wood around here. I can usually find plenty of oak for free. Sometimes I can get the tree guys to just dump it in my yard in logs.

That blower is butt ugly. I'd hang a pre-rusted skirt on the bottom on three sides.

Or, red, if you paint it.

I told you it was ugly, My other stove was like the other one in this set of threads. and while it worked, MAN-O-Man does this thing kick out the heat! and a LOT of it. I don't know how many CFM that blower is but it moves a TON of air. and the air is soo hot you cant keep your hand in the stream more than a few seconds, and this wasn't even much of a fire just some kindling and a few sticks of a inch or so in diameter. thats it Like WOW can't imagine when i get a nice bed of embers going in there.

And probably noisy too......and not to mention the little kids fingers safety.

He's going to replace it with a bolier, maybe.

Use a Rustoleum product called "Rust Reformer", I have used it on cooling towers and boilers. It chemically turns the rust into a black primer that you then paint over.

Works quite well for years to come.

http://www.rustoleum.com/zinsserhp.asp

That is the ugliest stove I've ever seen... You can put lipstick on a pig, but it's still a pig. Just paint it and keep an eye out for something to replace it.

Hi lyn,

I see you have a fetish at sniping at people's rear end.

Then quit exposing it.

Problem is, it need not be exposed!

Then all the more reason not to expose it.

If you are exposing it, how to do "all the more not to expose it" ?

You are in hot trivial pursuit again ?

I meant...

If you are not exposing it, how to do "all the more not to expose it" ?

That's an awfully big "If", but not big enough to cover the situation.

How does it become an awfully big "IF" ?

Good grief, can't you figure out anything?

That was irony; I was not surprised at all. Just one more thing you couldn't figure out correctly.

You should quit your habit of trivial pursuit ! neither should I be sucked into one.

Cheers !

Your response was, "Use WD40."

I will be happy to issue you an apology for sniping if you can share with us what benefit the application of WD 40 would have on a rusted wood stove.

Cheers.

I am not an expert in rust control, but isn't WD40 able to dissolve rust? It may not be the best method, it is one method. Whether I am right or wrong , you need not issue an apology. I am only interested to learn from people and sometime to share some of the little knowledge I happen to have.

Dissolve, no...not even close. Not even a "method" at all. Please don't share that little bit of knowledge you have...please, no.

It makes a great fire on the outside where it can do some good!

Try using 'EvapoRust' to remove that corrosion. I have been using it around the house for several years now; in my metal working shop and the garage, to wipe out corrosion on everything around here from structural steel, the cars, guns, and especially hand tools of all types. You won't believe how well it works after you have soaked a rusty part in it overnight....plus it protects the metal from further corrosion. Just use a wire brush to clean off the part after treatment. The US Military and NASA have adopted it's use in treating corrosion...all services that is. I don't know how the protective coating will hold up on an old cast iron wood stove that's being used all winter, but it's

You can buy it directly from the manufacturer, or find it at Tractor Supply Co., for around $22 a gallon.

Try phosphoric acid after first removing loose rust.

This will convert the rust to iron-phosphate and thus protect from further corrosion!

RHABE

I forgot about that one. One problem might be, from an aesthetic point of view, whatever the texture of the surface is, it will telegraph through whatever paint is applied. If it's rough and uneven, it will look that way painted too.

Hi NSS

If it is not too heavy and can be lifted onto a truck drive it to a ship yard and have them sandblast it in no time at all. Hope you don't live in the desert

Should have read through the whole thread, sorry.

NAVAL JELLY is manufactured by Permatex. Product no. 18756. Readily available in the big box stores in the paint department, usually with the strippers, solvents, graffiti removers, etc.

I got mine several months ago in a Home Depot.

Good Luck, Old Salt

I have been fighting rust and working at removing it for years now.

As I recall Naval Jelly is good at preventing rust more than removing it. My guess is the rust you are seeing is from the heat oxidiation. My reccommendation would be to leave the surface finish alone and find a really old time answer, "Stove Black". I have seen it sold at Tractor Supply recently.

Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid mixed with a gelling agent. Any dilute acid will remove rust. The most easily obtained is muriatic acid (weak hydrochloric acid) that can be purchased at most hardware stores. If you use it, be sure to wear eye protection, rubber gloves, long sleeves and a mask (don't breath the fumes). After the acid removes the rust you will need to neutralize the surface within an alkaline solution (baking soda in water will work) and then flush with running water. The cleaned steel will begin to rust almost immediately if you don't dry it and paint it. One quick method to dry it is a heat gun or a propane torch. High temperature engine paint may work if you have to use red.

I had an old stove like that many years ago. I wiped it down with standard gasoline outside. After a whikle the gas vapors went away and it remained black and shiny till I sold it years later.

It might be the same one.....

A few guys got it right, mostly from the marine department. With the gel, you can safely convert the rust (oxide) into phosphate. Then paint it with stove black. It is all inorganic, does not release anything volatile into the air.

An (organic at the beginning) surefire solution from grannny. Leaky stovepipe sealant is plum preserve. It has plenty of fibers, and burns into a tough leather like substance, safely sealing the pipe for all foreseable future.

Phosphoric acid. Use it at 100% if badly rusted, or dilute if mildly rusted.

Maybe it's weathering steel, which is alloyed to form a hard, rusty-looking surface upon exposure to moisture. If it is, painting it may make it more susceptible to corrosion.

Hi NSS, I think you are looking for phosphoric acid (active ingredient)

sold under many trade names. "Kurust" etc. Marvelous stuff. (be careful)

It will turn the rust (oxide) into a usable base coat for painting.

Important: wear goggles and gloves, if can be nasty stuff. (take no chances)

jt.

Do you think masochists deserve a fair crack of the whip?

Guys, I have used a product called Jenolite which is, I believe, another version of Phosperic Acid - works a treat,

Could well be UK only - had never brought abroad, I was in SA earlier in the year and found a source of Jenolite in a tiny store on the South Coast.

Happy Hunting

Sleepy

After seeing the picture I would get some stainless steel sheet and cut a few panels to make a cover. Screw the cover to the stove with stainless screws and back the plate with ceramic stand-offs from the Ham radio guy's supply. Then, if the wife wants Red paint the panels Red! You can then use High-temp automotive paint and the stand-offs will keep the outer painted surface cooler. PLUS you can cover up that ugly blower! And if the blower draws from below the box, then the panels you make can be a screen down below with a filter if you want.
If you got kids, then this is probably the best thing you could do with that thing considering the heat and the belts and motor and fan.

You may also want to check out Eastwood's "Gel Rust Dissolver" at:

www.eastwood.com

The beauty of the gel-type rust dissolver is that you don't have to submerge the steel or iron. Instead, you paint on the gel and and cover it with plastic wrap and wait until the rust is "eaten-up" and in suspension. It works great on vertical surfaces as well because it just clings to the surface like thick molasses!

The car restoring guys buy this stuff and it works wonders. I even use it myself, but I caution you that it's not inexpensive at $49.99 per US Gallon.

They still make naval jelly, but I'd think you would need quite a bit. Just Google navy jelly

Sandblast it... Done.

Yeah and then replace the electric blower with a steam engine that could be used for other purposes as well.

Ya know, in all honesty i actually like that idea.

It serves several purposes.

1- it can make the blower spin,

2- it adds humidity to the air.

hmmmm.Interesting idea. and it would be like a automatic thermostat too once the stove gets hot it spins and once cooled off it stops. plus if there is a power fail;ure, it keep blowing I LIKE now any suggestions on how to do it?

Joe

It's a shame I have not much time on my hands. I would love to come and give you a hand and see it it full swing. Waste not want not. Good luck with it, Ky.

Maybe post it as a question in CR4?

You'll get more advice than you could ever wish for. Like I said, I don't have the time at the moment and it would require a hands on approach as well.

When I was 14, I was too young to upgrade my little toy steam engine, I suggested this to my mother. We were heating a stove with everything we could get our hands on. She refused because she had seen what happened when I was making my own fire crackers.

'Some mothers do have 'em' sort of stuff.

Go for it, maybe contact a steam engine club in your area? These guys usually go out of their way to help and possibly have something standing around not being used.

Good luck, Ky.

muriatic acid

I'll post a few pictures for you all to see when I'm done.

But this is coming out very nice looking. I used the Muratic Acid with a coarse grit sanding sponge for the initial rust removal attempt. This did make a big difference.

I then just plain wet sanded it with the same sponge.

And then used the Rustoleum Reformer product. Let it dry for a day. Then wet sanded it with 400 grit paper, and then painted it with a cool looking metallic red.

I left the access door and ash tray the reformer black. And then coated everything with a high gloss clear coat. It's making the wife very happy, and I'm actually quite pleased with how it's turning out. But one thing of caution.

The Rustoleum Reformer spray rattle can product. I'm not sure what the active chemical is in it. That makes it different than any other primer. (maybe I'll read the can sometime) But it does have something NASTY in it!

I noticed before I was to apply that gloss clear topcoat that a nicked the access door near the hinge. Too small of an area to re spray without getting it where it isn't wanted. and I'm too lazy to re tape everything. It was just an edge of the doow a scratch like 1/8 " wide and a inch or so long. On the edge corner of the door. so I just sprayed some of the reformer on my finger and dabbed it to cover the scratch.

You'd never know it was there,

BUT!

Today the finger tip I sprayed is now all numb! And Like hard to the touch. Doesn't hurt or anything like that. it's just like numb, and the whole area is like tougher harder less pliable.

So what happened who knows. Just a heads up to anyone else that may want to use this stuff he he he.

Pictures to come shortly.

Joe

OK, 90% done with this thing.

looking for an Idea for what to cover up that UGLY blower area.

I was originally thinking of using a decorative metal sheet. Like this,

Which would look great! BUT! it would cost almost 100 bucks to do it.

so anyone got an Idea what to use to hide the underneath yet be able to breathe still?

Joe

Got some pipe?

Even 50mm PVC pipe would do. Just some short bits. Nice laminar air flow .

Ok as I promised, you all seen what she looked like at the start. what ya think now?

Joe

Nicely Done!

looks like it was all worth it

That really did come out well; congratulations on a neat project.

it appears that your stove was originally galanized. the zince has been burned off from high temperatures. i've used "The Works" toilet cleaner to remove rust with good results. maybe muratic acid also. i don't think either one will harm the zinc coating if you apply it in the right strengh. there might be a zinc spray-on product you could use to refinish it.

Sand-blasting?

Laser rust removal?