Golf Cart Battery Problem

I don't know how it broke. There was a buildup of acid corrosion on that terminal (negative). I never ran the batteries down; always kept a charge on them. Do you think I could drill a 1/4" hole in the post (the part in the case), not too deep for a piece of copper rod, carefully melt some solder around the copper; drill a hole in the other part of the post; press it on the copper rod; more solder. Is it possible a high current flowing through that post could have gotten hot enough to melt the post?

You have nothing to lose by trying the drill hole/copper rod fix.

High current? I don't know. Maybe.

Was there corrosion on any other terminals?

Can you send a picture?

Lyn, Here is a picture of the bad battery. It is the + terminal that broke. It didn't break at the post after all, but at the extension that comes off the post. The drill/tap solution may work. I wonder how far the post extends into the case? There is corrosion on some of the other terminals also.

From this it looks like an inch or so, at least.<img class="size-full wp-image-8370" title="Cross Section Of A Car Battery" src="http://pictures.picpedia.com/2012/11/Cross-Section-Of-A-Car-Battery.jpg" alt="Cross Section Of A Car Battery" width="555" height="310" />

Thanks Lyn, I knew I came to the right place for the right answers.

Ronseto: From your photo it is clear to me that there was a short taking place between positive post and "ground", especially if you look at the carbony appearing track from the post to the nearest bracket. To avoid this in the future, you need to keep dust from collecting on the top of the batteries, that one combined with any acidic residues will make a very conductive path. Good luck with the repair attempt, hoping that you do not break the sealed battery compartment. The sort of corrosion you are seeing is a long term corrosion where two different metals are in contact, and sets up a galvanic cell, typically iron is the anode. Always coat the metals at the battery posts with anti-corrosive for batteries, and use a felt washer when available.

From the look of that set up I assume that you have 3 or 4 batteries in parallel and the red positive line shown is what was attached to the missing terminal. I do not know the purpose of the parallel bars shown connected to one negative terminal and a negative(black) lead other than to be a connection manifold of sorts even though it looks more like steel than copper.

It looks awfully close to the positive post and was there sign of arcing on the manifold? Could the corrosion deposit have built up enough to bridge the gap and cause a high amperage short as suggested? The blackened area definitely would suggest so.

You might look into getting some of those plastic protector caps to cover the connections. The suggested felts often help a lot and as suggested Vaseline was an old remedy which I found effective. Got lazy lately and have just resorted to either WD-40 or a white grease spray.

Sounds good to me.

You'd be screwing it into lead threads in a side terminal battery, so why not?

I would drill and tap both pieces and then use a piece of threaded rod to screw them back together. If you want to use copper you could make Your own threded rod out of a piece of copper rod.

oilcan13

There is an adapter for converting a side term battery into a top term battery. It's just a lead post with a threaded stud. Drill and tap your battery to match one of those and install it. Will work on most batteries, def on yours unless the damage goes deep! I have used conducive Loctite, or other conducive adhesive when I did this. I suggest you do too. Lots of physical stress there. I would also look for where the lid to the compartment may be what caused this. These compartments are often under the seat, and if pressure is put on the post from above this is what happens. LOTS of electric vehicle experience here!

Obviously, you missed this: #4

Actually I didn't. My post was one of the first made to this op. Either the posts were all made within seconds, or, there is a conspiracy to post old timers before newer members. I prefer the conspiracy theory! When I made my post it should have been at least in the #4 position..... The only post here at that time was the OP! Something is fishy here....like the fact that I have made quite a few quality answers, and made them first, only to see someone else post essentially the same answer after mine and get several votes. While my post got none!

This happens to everyone. You see a post, have a flash of brilliance and start typing. Problem is , you have no monopoly on intelligence, experience or knowledge and other people may already be typing away and get in line before you.

There is no conspiracy here! There is no preferential treatment of any kind here.

Quit whining and get in line with the rest of us.

You realize,of course, that each point awarded has a value of .000001 Tiyin, in Uzbekistan currency?(Subject to exchange rates)

I do not blame you for becoming upset and suspecting a conspiracy!

Every penny counts, nowadays!

We use to repair these all the time years ago. 1st thing I would do is drill the remaining area out for a 1/4-20 thread. Insert a piece of 1/4" threaded copper bar stock and mold the outer area to pour lead in. New terminal. Make sure you are molding inside the plastic case area of terminal. Other wise you can melt the case a bit.

Finding lead maybe the hardest thing to do these days.

Found a how to fix for just that problem....

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/battery-terminal-repair.php

...also I would recommend conductive paste and sealant spray to complete the job...

Thanks all. It looks like all is not lost.

Good battery suppliers can fuse a new terminal on as well.

Most of the engineers have come up with the correct solution to your problem. One other avenue for help is a parts store where you can buy a new terminal for batteries that have a double mount. Buick park ave from 1996 to 2005 has that type of terminal. Next, if it is possible, try to increase the circulation around the Battery so the Battery stays cooler. Also make sure that you check the water often. The battery will get hot when it is being charged. Usually Golf Car batteries stay hooked up to the charger too long. If you don't use it very often, then you should disconnect the negative side of the battery when it is in storage for longer periods of time. Rinse the terminals at a couple of month intervals with a mixture of baking soda and water then re rinse with plain water to remove the baking soda. One of the guys put up a picture of a product to protect the terminals. Use that too.

Good luck and keep your weight on the inside of your right foot during your back swing.

Actually I don't play golf. I use it to get around my 8 acre property.

All good answers but you must try to find out what caused the problem or it will happen again. I have never seen a post break off like that.

Some pointers on lead burning;

1 Absolutely clean surfaces are essential. Lead is soft and easily cleaned with a scraper or file. If the battery has electrolyte in it, the surface to be burned should first be wiped with ammonia to nuetralize the acid and allowed to dry before scraping.

2 In order to avoid the possibility of explosion when using a flame near a battery place the filling plugs in the battery and cover the entire battery with wet cloth, pressing it down on the vents of the cells, except on the part to be burned. Compressed air should also be used to blow out the gases from the cells.

3 Lead melts at approx 600 degrees, so many torches will provide sufficient heat but it is also necessary that the torch provides a small and concentrated needle point flame for successful battery work. Heat alone is not sufficient for battery work, the required heat must be combined with a needle point flame.

4 I cannot stress enough to have eye protection and adequate ventilation.

Try this to restore a post like new.

Make your own mold, using a sheet metal strap and a post as a mold.join with screws to a flat bar handle.Use aluminum strap, so lead will not stick to it.

Get some old wheel weights and melt them down for lead.

Use a fan to keep the fumes from accumulating while you work,directing fan across top of battery and away from work area.

Premelt the lead and pour into the mold and wait for it to cool.It is important to thread the base to give the new lead some "bite" and more surface area to bond to.

This advice, as well as the following link is "Use at your own risk!" and safety is in your own hands and responsibility.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-repair-optima-yellow-top-3577.html

I have been making a good battery terminal protectant for 60 years I now use on my 8D starting battery, six L-16 (2 volt cells) house battery in my boat, two cars and a RV.

I get a small jar of Vaseline, melt the Vaseline in the jar in a pan of hot water, remove a couple of tablespoons of the liquified Vaseline and replace with baking soda, mix thoroughly, use paint brush to apply liquid mix to battery terminals and associated hardware.

Repeat as needed.

A major factor in battery life is regular maintenance. Clean is important - battery tops (to minimize across-the-top terminal-to-terminal leakage) and mating metal parts (to reduce current loss and heating).

Number one cause of premature failure is under charging, number two is over charging (from Home Power magazine).

bandership

I've never seen it done but.....

check this link and see if it's an option.

http://www.evdl.org/pages/battpost.html

Although it appears to have overheated, you must ask yourself why? I would guess that maybe the problem was caused during installation when too much torque was applied, damaging the post.

This could mean that some more are going to fail, assuming the same person installed them.

Battery posts should never be subject to a lot of force, why? Simply because a combination of lead and plastic simply cannot handle it.

Run each car for a few minutes and then feel each connection for heat, any ones that are warming up need attention right now!!!! This test can also be made to cars and motorbikes by switching on lights etc., no engine running....

I like the idea of drilling/tapping and using a side post terminal, however there is one thing I believe will be very important. Since you're drilling a hole in the lead, you will weaken the strength of the terminal. If the cable is moved or pulled (even vibrations) may cause the terminal to crack, which could be a big problem and mess. I would make a device to hold the cable to the battery. This would allow the cable to move with the battery, hence reducing any strain on the weakened terminal.

I hope this helps.

The small and almost unavoidable acid leak will corrode most metals, copper included. If a thread is made into a hole in the battery post, I recommend to get a corrosion resistant bolt, such as Carpenter 20, Hastelloy B or C, etc. Expensive and hard to get, but extremely effective. If the extension of the post is threaded, it can be installed like a nut on the bolt or threaded rod screwed into the threaded hole in the terminal.

The bolt cross section area should be equivalent to the cross section area of the cables to avoid overheating and power loss.

If a metal other than acid resistant alloys is used, it shall be covered with molten lead to protect it and the corrossion inhibiting suggestions must be applied.

With thirty four answers, most of them good and some absolutely correct, likethe ones from Solar eagle and Lyn. Enough already.

I drilled and tapped the terminal and threaded in a side post adapter. Worked great. At closer examination, I found the wire insulation was burned and it looked like the post extension had melted, not broken off. I'm now in the process of cleaning up the corrosion and installing new wires.