Car Won't Start 2006 Pontiac G6

Did you program the new key?

Look online for instructions.

Yes. The new key has been programmed and the old key actually gets a good read on it still

Won't start means to many things, won't turn over, won't crank, won't fire, won't continue running, etc. Each one involves a different system and relies on the previous one(s), so be a little more specific, more details yields better answers.

Well, when I attempt to start it it make a single click and does do anything else. No noises or anything. Sometimes it'll start after I keep trying. Today my starter was replaced and it wouldn't start so the mechanic got under the car and hit it with a screwdriver and it started. Sometimes it starts sometimes it doesn't

"... so the mechanic got under the car and hit it with a screwdriver and it started."

And this is acceptable to the mechanic? Do you feel good about giving him a check?

Sounds like a bad ground connection... this is CLEARLY part of the deal with your mechanic to trace and fix this, no matter what the trouble is.

Or a defective starter solenoid.

Well my next step was to take it to the GMC dealership so that they can do a test on it. She stated that this test would cost 92.50 and would tell them if its a computer issue or what is malfunctioning

$92.50 sounds cheaper than just throwing new parts into it and hoping.

if he has more money than time....... but it is his call.

Are you sure the mechanic actually replaced the starter? Or that he replaced the old one with a new one? Your comment that the car started after he hit the starter with a screw driver sends up red flags that he ripped you off.

Sounds like you still have a defective starter. Or there is a bad connection to it.

yes he did, a check for $500.00

Mechanic is a family friend so no check was given

Bad starter, get another one. Next

Got another one today

And?

I would consider calling a mechanic. A trained mechanic will be able to quickly discern your failure to start as either a failure to crank or a failure to run. In the failure to crank category the root cause could be anything from a faulty ignition switch, to your new key not having the correct RFI code, to a bad transmission interlock switch, to the dreaded seized engine and a few dozen other possibilities in between. For an engine that will crank but not run, a mechanic will start by finding out if fuel or spark is not getting into the engine. Once they know which is missing they will work to find out why it is missing.

Call a mechanic.

I did read through all of the responses, but check all the connections and condition of the connections. A lot of possibilities exist.

A good start is the battery connection...... even though your cable may feel tight. Udo it and look at the thread on the bolt...... there are times where the thread is worn down/cross threaded and is barely caught.

If this is it, replace the bolt on the cable.

Readily available at any auto parts store.

Ridiculous! Before throwing more good money after bad, try the easy "stuff". Is the battery dead/charged, do the lights dim when you try to start, are all the connections to the battery tight or loose, are there any loose grounds, is there any visible corrosion, etc. Any one of these things will cause a no-start condition, give everything you see a good wiggle, no tools required except for your hands and eyes.

When all else fails go to a mechanic who specializes in electrical work, not your general purpose parts swapper.

Sounds like a corroded or loose connection.....try the starter connections first....take off the wires, clean the connections with sandpaper or wire brush and electrical cleaner, and reconnect.....then go to battery connections.....and if that hasn't cured the problem work your way through the starting circuit cleaning the connections as you go....

http://www.g6ownersclub.com/

http://www.justanswer.com/pontiac/6wm3t-05-grand-prix-won-t-start-when-key-turned-start-lights.html

Solenoid defective? Bad ground to frame &/or body? Corrosion on any one of several terminals / connections? It could be a lot of things. Who ever did the diagnostics isn't much of a mechanic if you are replacing multiple parts. There are a host of ways to find any problem with or without an electronic evaluation. Find a new mechanic...

Have you tried "wiring" it? i.e. just taking a lead from the battery to the starter?
(e.g. ask the local car thief if he can start it? - Some "professionals" charge for this "help".)

Before throwing more money at it, write a check list and then prove each point in turn.
(or get a book of auto "check lists" from the local library.)

The CR4 members have covered most (all) of the points. If it only "clicks" then it points
to the starter motor "dog" is either broken, jammed, over greased or, for some reason,
e.g. flywheel teeth missing, is not engaging to turn over the engine. (IMO)

Which is why I suggested shorting out all the switches etc, with a jumper lead.
If you bypass all the ignition switch / computer, etc... and, with a lead to the starter
it still does not rotate the engine, then it has to be the starter / dog, or flywheel teeth.
Elimination is what you need.
This is assuming you have checked the return earth wire is good, from the engine block back
to the battery to make the circuit. - I have seen mechanics leave this loose, so it only works some of the time!
This can make the circuit go HR (high resistance) and prevent it working the starter motor intermittently.
(most frustrating)

All before we get to the rest, fuel, ignition, etc. does the engine rotate as it should?

Hope this helps. jt.

I was at my bank today; there was a short line. Just one lady in front of me,
an Asian lady who was trying to exchange yen for dollars. It was obvious
she was a little irritated. . . . .
She asked the teller, 'Why it change? Yesterday, I get two hunat dolla fo yen.
Today I only get hunat eighty? Why it change ?'

The teller shrugged his shoulders and said, 'Fluctuations.'

The Asian lady says, 'Fluc you white people too!''

ps... assuming the correct (new) starter is fitted for that model car.
Also the current carrying face plates (which make the connection) may be greased pitted or dirty. Elimination, elimination.

jt.

A man books into a sleazy hotel, the desk clerk tells him that it's £20 a night or £15 if he makes his own bed.
I reckon I can do that; says the man

Here's the key replies the desk clerk. Pick up your timber and nails at the top of the stairs.

GO to Sears, Harbor Freight, buy an code reader, It will cost less than 92.50 and you can be a hero to your neighbor when he has something wrong.

The code reader will come in handy whenever your Che k engine light comes on.

Even cheaper, go to Advance or Auto-zone. They'll read the codes for you for free.

Hitting the starter with a screw driver or hammer and having it start usually means either worn or sticking brushes that aren't making good contact with the rotor. Get a new starter. And yes, I've seen them come out of the factory and/or rebuilders that way.

The code reader will not be able to diagnose any starter related issues. Batt volts is it No readings from starter, solenoid, neut safety switch.

Try this first; Hold the key in the start position, have someone wiggle the cable going to the positive side of the battery. If the car starts, there is your bad connection.

I tried and still nothing. It clicks once, my radio and lights work. It just won't start.

Do the lights dim? When hitting the starter allows it to start........ This means the brushes are worn or the commutator is burned. Striking it moves it slightly and allowing a fresh clean spot to make contact. If the lights don't dim, it means you are not drawing any current. Is there another relay in the circuit? There should be two wires to the starter a heavy red wire that connects to the battery, a smaller one that connects to the solenoid. The heavy red wire should have 12 volts at all times, the small only when in start mode. Try measuring these and get back to us. There is a possibility the neutral safety switch is bad, maybe that got disturbed and allowed it to start, try starting in neutral and moving the shift lever, do the reverse lights work?

I doubt a code reader will identify this. Unless you bought a new starter, you may have gotten another turkey.

There was a marine rebuilder in southwestern Suffolk county NY in the 90's. When he got a starter in as a core replacement, he would clean, place a file mark on it and put it on the out shelf. If it came back 3 times he would then rebuild it. Ever change a starboard starter on a boat only to have it fail or not work? In todays market you don't know what you are getting, sad but true.

The lights do dim

But no "clicks" correct?

It clicks once.

Now check the voltages as posted earlier.That means the neutral safety switch is good, and you have some voltage getting to the starter. Now we are looking to see if you have sufficient current. No chance of an overheat with a resulting seized bearing?

Do you think the anti theft system may be an issue? Is there a possibility that the computer has locked me out?

Certainly possible, but if the lights dim (significantly) and you hear a click, I don't think so.

Ok. I'll definitely have the volts checked. Just weighing all my options

2 things to remember, 1) it will be the last thing we check, it will be something we have overlooked.

Wires checked... Good..... charged battery ... Car started and ran. Turned car off for about 30 minutes and it wouldn't start up. Battery is will under warranty so I'll be getting a new one tomorrow.

That is a statement that some women use, "it was in the LAST place I looked!"

Who works on further once a problem is found and fixed?

No, it's not the anti-theft devcie.

Pretty effective anti-theft device if you ask me.

This appears to be the same anti-theft device used in Cavaliers.

On ones I have worked on, the engine cranks, sometimes even starts and then stops when the key is bad or similar.

I have an old key, wrong programming, that I keep around just to open and close the doors......the engine will run maybe 5 seconds with it!!!

PM sent

Either a loose connection onto the battery, or a dud battery.

Had battery tested at 2 different places today. Good battery.... I dont know what else to do besides take it to get put on diagnostic machine

i forgot to add that the battery was charged on yesterday and put back into my car and it started. I drove it for a while. When i got home i parked it for about 45 minutes went out to start it and it wouldn't start.

Same symptoms? One click, lights dim etc.

Regards,

Jim W

Yes

Did you take voltage measurements at the starter? What were/are they?

It will take two people, one to read the meter, and the other to turn the key.

I doubt you will get a diagnostic code, as the car doesn't start. So far nothing is pointing to anything other than an electrical issue(s).

Regards,

Jim

My dad claims he did. Neither of us are mechanics though

If you can tell us what the voltages are, we may be able to assist further. Key in run position and then key in start on both the small solenoid and the heavy red starter lead we may be able to help. However, I think it is time to bring someone in rather than spend more time going back and forth. Once we discover the problem, you are going to have to purchase any parts and then install them. Are you comfortable doing electrical work? If in fact, the problem is as others have stated, a current draw discharging the battery, you are going to have to take it to an automotive electrical specialist anyway.

That of course doesn't explain the first mechanic striking the starter to allow it to start. The car is 7/8 yrs old and it is possible to have several problems.

I've got a list of "honey do" things, (expecting HER family for dinner). I'll try and get back around 1900 UTC.

Well If the battery is running down I would check the charging circuit....check the alternator by checking battery voltage while engine is running, it should be about 14 volts.....If it's reading 12v, it's not charging.....pull it out take it to the parts place(advance) and have them check it....

Generally slightly over 14 volts and less than 15 volts, 14.5 - 14.7 is what I expect (once the battery is recharged after starting of course.....!)

But its a small point.

Bad connection or bad battery or solenoid/starter with internal bad connection/contacts.

What voltage does the battery drop too when trying to start?

Bad solenoid and/or bad starter and/or bad cable and/or bad cable connection.

Its not battery as lights don't dim and radio works.

Some cars have "thick" Battery cables that are also fusible links, they look good, but are simply open circuit....check with an Ohmmeter.

...or the ground wire from chassis to engine. Engine usually needs to be well grounded for the starter to work correctly....

A friend had this same problem and found that he had forgotten to replace it after changing out an engine!! Took him a week to find!!!

A voltmeter across the solenoid will show 12 volts when NOT starting, but should show 0 volts when the solenoid is activated AND the contacts are in a good condition.

It is most likely to be a connection with a thick cable.....sometimes a bad connection simply gets hot, very hot!!

take it to a diagnostic. At a car center it'll may be free.

Please read my No 19. Please?

Check the earthing lead: "....This is assuming you have checked the return earth wire is good, from the engine block back to the battery to make the circuit...." If it's loose this is what you would get - clicks and go-no go.

If you take a lead from the battery and touch it on the starter terminal - it should turn the engine over. (make sure it is out of gear!) If it doesn't - its inside the starter.

i.e. If the leads are in good contact - and you have checked the solenoid face plates, it is likely the starter dog (cog) has missing teeth, is jamming, or just not connecting with the flywheel teeth, where a few teeth also may be missing.

It's not rocket science - a reasonable mechanic should find the fault in minutes!

(and for only a low price!)

Hope this helps jt.

I read that a cafe in London is now selling coffee at £8 a cup.
Inside the cup you'll find hints of apricot, pineapple, kiwi, and lime.

Outside the cup you'll find a daft bugger who spends eight quid on coffee....

n.b. CR4 Still broken. Very difficult to upload.

Reading through the last 2 messages, i.e. you charged the battery and the car started.

It may be you have a slow drain on the battery, so that after a short while it becomes to run down to work the starter motor. To prove this charge the battery, start the car, stop the car and disconnect the battery. Return and reconnect the battery and if the car starts as normal, then a part of the electrical circuit of the car is draining the battery.

This could be almost anything, which you can eliminate by removing the fuses for each circuit in turn, and seeing which one, when restored, flatens the battery again.

It could be e.g. a short in the cigarette lighter, a bulb failure short, an interior light staying on, even a boot light staying on (check!) etc.. but by removing and replacing the fuses you will find which circuit is causing the problem.

I feel for you, because I have suffered the same fate myself! When you find it... yipppee!!

jt.

In a recent Australian general election the main concern was about the number of illegal immigrants there are. Government sources suggest it could be around 60,000.

Aboriginal sources say it's more like twenty two and a half million.

If there was a drain on the battery, there would be light and/or heat and/or smoke coming from that spot.

Not necessarily but likely. Some can not be seen: e.g. the boot (trunk) lights. jt

Third attempt.

Second attempt to post this.

Stop guessing, and lets find out your problem. First invest in a 12 volt test light.

On the starter is a solenoid. the solenoid has three posts on it. Two larger posts, and a smaller one. The one large post has the positive battery cable on it. Take the clamp from your test light, and attach it to a bare metal part of the engine. Next take the probe end of the test light, and touch the post of the solenoid with the battery cable on it. Now have an assistant try to start the car. Was the light on all the time while starting, or did the light go out when trying? Try both the stud of the post, and the metal end of the battery cable attached to it. If the light went out when testing, you have a bad connection at either the battery cable connections, or the ground cable connection on the engine.

If the light stayed on for the test, next try the same test by probing the other large post, and the wire attached to it. If the light came on, pull the starter and solenoid, and have them repaired or replaced. If the light did not go on, test the smaller post on the solenoid. If the light comes on now when trying to start, again, remove the starter and solenoid fro repair or replacement.

If the small post did not light up, there is a brake in the connections between the ignition switch, and the small post on the solenoid. The 12 volt signal for the starter solenoid (small post) is from ignition switch to the clutch safety switch, or the neutral safety switch, then through the firewall, and then it MAY go to a relay, and then to the small post on the solenoid. Here is where it would be helpful to have a wiring diagram, although I am reasonably sure that this wire on the smaller post is going to be purple, or purple with a white or black tracer on it.

Good luck.

Its fixed...... It was the relay switch

Commonly called a solenoid I believe.....

After everyone has knocked themselves out to help... e,g, my No 45... (and other members.)
".... If the leads are in good contact - and you have checked the solenoid face plates,.."
Where are we now? At peace.

jt.

I went to the doctor for a full medical. he said go to the window and put out your tongue.
I did so, and then asked him what doing that checked? He replied, nothing,
I just don't like that man across the street.

we have a G6 & they are known for their electrical problems. the same non start issue Had our mechanic replace the battery ground worked for a while now not starting every couple of days again. Our friend told us to ground the battery to the engine block real good with one lead of the jumper cable only & see if it starts & it does. Now I find Out there are several ground wires that could be causing the problem but I don't know where they are.

Every electrical item on your car needs a ground to work. In your starter circuit there is a ground from battery to the engine block. Without this, the engine will turn over, but slowly, and cause other wires and metallic things to carry the current from the starter, and get very hot.

Your car also has a ground from the battery to the front fenders or radiator support. This is necessary for the headlights to get to full brightness.

You also have a ground to the body, or the firewall area. This is important for all of the electronic components and HVAC fan to work. This is also the grounding point for the computer. There may also be a separate ground wire from the computer to another ground point under the hood, but never sure till you seethe diagram.

The car also has a ground from the dashboard to the firewall. There will also be a ground from the steering column to the dashboard, or the firewall. If the car also has a console, there will be a ground from the console to the dashboard or firewall.

All of the ground wires on your car will be black in color. The only exception would be bare braided wire. These will not be buried in a harness. These might be used from fender to engine or from fender to hood. Good luck.

Hi, did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have a 2006 G6 pontiac and replaced it w a new starter n my key will not start the car only makes that click noise w dashboard lights on but cannot start it, so this is very similiar to what u went thru. hope to hear back from u. I am planning on going to the mechanic this week and want to explain the situation better for him so he can figure out what is going on. thanks chrissy

Weigh it in. It's knackered and it's time to replace it.

One would hope that any tinkerer would fix or scrap a broken vehicle after eleven and a half years. The trees might get in the way by now.