Useful Repurposed Items

You've sold me on the idea - a Dremel is now on my wish list.

As you mention, I just have this feeling that once I get one to play with I'll be wondering why on earth I never got one before.

Any handyman needs one and there are plenty of REALLY cheap "look-a-likes" to sort of "test-the-water" so to say......

A further good point of a cheap one is that once you have the real thing - the Dremel - you can lend out the cheapo to those "borrowers", never the good one!!!

Been there, done that, still doing it......

They are an addition to an almost complete toolkit, there are plenty of tools you should have first. A Dremel is really the icing on the cake!!!!

By the way, I occasionally buy defective tools (only welknown quality makes with a repair center in Germany) on ebay for almost just the postage, then send them in for repair and usually get a new one back.....for far less than they cost in the shops, because all the extras are not bought/exchanged!!!

Sometimes I can repair them myself too....though I never rely on that, I find out what the repair center wants to repair/replace, even before I buy......you usually get the latest version as well......

It wasn't on BBC, but I too remember from my teenage years ('50s) a headline or title equivalent to "The LASER; the solution in search of a problem". At the time I couldn't possibly dream that some day I'd have several in my desk and toolbox.

Similarly, I can't remember not having a Dremel. For a long time I had a single speed unit that I used with a Variac to adjust the speed.

Here in the US we also have the Rotozip, which is essentially a high powered Dremel. I use both regularly.

Lehman57-

Agree with you 100% GA. See #156. If you haven't seen it yet, download their accessories catalog. Loaded with about everything you could want and then some.

Love my 50 year old Foredom!

Good Luck, Old Salt

Kudos on keeping a loved (and presumably much used) tool going. I'm slightly scared to ask about the hose clamp, but in a 'disposable age', I've huge respect for anyone who keeps a bit of life in something that is still useful. Age and looks don't matter, it's all about whether it can do the required job.

Thanks, old salt. I need to persuade the financial director before I embark on what may become an obsession. Right now I have no specific tasks or projects in mind, it's just that the tool gives me that 'buzz' feeling that it would be a lot of fun and I'd very quickly find uses for it. Many thanks for the additional info

I'm pondering telling her (the Financial Director) that she could use it for some sort of craft/hobby (like those eggs I posted earlier), but I just hate sharing tools. As (I think) Andy mentioned earlier, if you lend good kit out it tends not to come back to daddy very quick. There's also some sound logic to not lending precision tools. Professional chefs never let anybody else use their knives because everyone has a slightly different 'angle of attack', and letting somebody else use your fave knives can seriously mangle the edge on them.

Myself and the other half both have birthdays in Summer, so maybe we can buy for each other. It's highly possible that I will be dead by August (her birthday is before mine) if I try that tactic, but I'm tempted to risk it. With precision kit, it seems even more true that paying for good quality stuff is worth it.

All those who wish to save me: Paypal is OK, but I prefer a Transferable Letter of Credit. It may take me some time to thank you all for the donations, but I'll work my way thru the list as fast as I can .

Kris-

Completely aware of what your "financial director dilemma" is. Some advice an old sage, my father, told his sons: "Pick the tool that you want, then pick a project that requires that tool". He also said that in picking a project, if it was for the benefit of the financial director it was a much easier sell.

Hardest sell job I ever had was for a used Bridgeport milling machine! Still don't know how she let me get it.

Good Luck, Old Salt

rofl ! You're onto whole new (and very funny) waters with that one - terrible excuses/reasoning people have gotten away with. A sort of 'the cat ate my homwork' thing, but with an engineering slant.

This thread has already gone a bit adrift from the original question, so it hardly matters if anyone has a funny confession to make. Off the top of my head I can't think of any I've done. That's a bit strange because I'm sure that over the years I've told more than a few 'porkies' to extricate myself from bad situations. If people like to go in that direction, I've got plenty of stories about friends who have told some great big whoppers at work .

Good answer. GA

Being a person who needs glasses, I forget that many others don't have this protection on every day......

Its needed for all power tools, but many forget.....

Eye protection is also very important when using the wire wheels. It isn't to unusual to have those fine wires separate at high speed and become lodged end-first into anything soft. That's fie if it is a leather glove. It can be a little annoying if it is your skin. It one sticks in your eye, it is a completely different level of concern.

Good tip. You're quite correct on the vision, and I'm a bit of a nightmare for taking the 'obvious' safety precautions . Thanks for reminding me on that point - in my excitement (if I get one) it's exactly the kind of thing I would forget.

Not sure why, but in a workplace my mindset automatically thinks safety first, but if playing at home all that goes out the window. Some of the Health & Safety regs in a workplace can be OTT, so it's a sort of knee-jerk recklessness (aka stupidity) that takes me over when working in my own home. I'll bet that I'm not alone in being remiss about such things. Anyway that's a good, and to the topic, reminder about being careful when using unfamiliar stuff.

Worthy of a GA, because using stuff for purposes other than intended can be risky. Not just that, but for people like me it's a useful kick up the pants to think about safety when HSE aren't looking over your shoulder.

Eye protection is also a must when using wire wheels--they shed and tiny wires go flying and stick in skin and clothing. I do a lot with old rusty junque, so a wire wheel gets lots of use. Try to keep your face out of the trajectory of the flying wires.

RE: Gun screws. One solution is to use a high quality Swiss Army Knife. The screwdriver blades are sized to fit the slots on old style screw heads. I use mine on old gun screws all the time unless they are frozen in place. Make sure you have a good quality knife however, something like a Victorinox, not a cheap knockoff.

Then I suppose Andy's "torx" are * head screws.

But to me they're all ******** screws.

I thought that was another name for Prison Warders!!!

The problem is too many types of plus, and short arms that don't allow eyes to focus to determine 1,2,3 Phillips, Reed Prince, Posidrive, et cet....I've found that the origional purpose of a bright light and magnifying glass are the most useful.

This is a graph showing why Robertson (Square Drive) Screws work better than Phillips or Slotted screws at not camming out of the driver.

This is what that the Robertson driver heads look like.

This is a comparison of the screw heads. The second one from the left is a Robertson, the last is a combination of Robertson and Phillips, sold as Deck screws by home depot. They come with the driver insert in every box.

Hope this clarifies why and what these are.

Dan

the graphic makes no mention of slot head screws.

If you really like the flat (minus) type, Milwaukee (and probably others) has this impact driver bit which works great for screws with the combination flat/square (Robertson):

And the handheld version:

Rick.

I've seen professionals swearing that philips bits grab better on pozidriv screws and because of that, last longer than dedicated pozidriv bits. And wouldn't argue about it either. (lol) S.M.

Yeah, but they are still swearing. They might be having a better day using slot heads.

I would, that was a problem I had to include in Trainings that I gave on different equipments because doing it several times to the same screw, ruined the head.....its called "point contact", where "flank contact" was required.....

It actually does not matter which screw, simply using the wrong driver would damage it....million do it every day and haven't a clue what they are doing wrong!!

Doing it once only to a screw may allow you to get by......but good engineering it is not!

You can see the differences between the bits easily in the pictures I posted.

You don't have to agree with me, but be sure you are wrong if you don't!!

Dan A-

I can appreciate your detest for the Phillips head screws. It appears that their popularity has risen with the high usage of the battery operated pistol drill with the adjustable clutch. It is a great advancement over the screw driver and brace and bit for installing multiple screws in ordinary/common wood. For example, screws make a much better sheet rock wall than the nails that would eventually pop out and have to be re-nailed and spackled.

A couple of things I continue to use, although some people might not know what they are, include the brace and bit and the profile style wood screw pilot. The brace and bit, since I haven't found anything that gives me the sensitive feel of the torque, and the progress of the screw. I find the old slotted screws best for this. Once tried to find bits for sq sockets screws but no luck. Slotted are also easier to get trowel cement and bedding compounds out of, especially socket heads (sq or hex) and Phillips head.

Around the house and for utility I pretty much have settled on Phillips head sheet metal screw. The reasons are: relatively inexpensive; ease in installation vs. wood screws; and they are readily available. If it is something that the screw will be seen I always use the proper and if possible the most aesthetic screw.

I tend to use the old and proven methods for wooden boat hull restorations because I haven't found anything better than them and there are few newer style fasteners available that will work as accurately and with as few problems as the old style. Also sometimes it "feels good" to go back to the old methods.

The most important thing though is to get the task done. This is especially true if it is something for the wife.

Good Luck, Old Salt

Hi Old Salt.

Not sure where you are located, but if there is a Home Depot near you, they have been carrying Robertson (Square drive drywall screws and Deck screws) for at least ten years.

The Deck screws come with a driver bits in each box.

I have never. in the last 10 years of using these screws, ever had a driver Cam out of the screw, even a 3 1/2 long Deck screw in a hard wood post.

The driver bits are compatible with all clutched drills.

Please give them a try and let me know what you think.

Dan

Thanks for the info.

I have used the deck screws, the older ones with the combination square/Phillips and the square drive ones. Used at least several thousand of them when I replaced the builders galv. nails which he used on the deck. Have had no need for the sheet rock's yet but I will use them when the time comes.

On the deck I have had a few that the driver broke in and messed up the recess in the screw. Fortunately all but one were high enough to use a vise grip on. The one I got out with a left-hand drill bit and an easy out. That is the only way I take bolts or screw out that are not high enough for the vice grips. Instead of tightening the fastener, if the drill bit catches it runs is up and towards out instead of a right hand bit driving it in further.

Next time I work with dry wall I will use the recessed squares.

Thanks for the info,

Hi Old Salt,

Great idea using the easy out to remove the deck screws.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Dan

Dan A-

Thanks for the opportunity to help out. The key to the success of the easy-out or any other screw extractor is the use of the left-hand drill bit. Besides other sides. I think I have almost all I need for #10 up through 1/2" and have never regretted obtaining them. Not a full set, just they ones I needed. Loss has been minimal due to breakage. Much higher though from borrowers who like them so much they simply don't return them.

Good Luck, Old Salt

Dan A-

Thanks for the opportunity to help out. The key to the success of the easy-out or any other screw extractor is the use of the left-hand drill bit. Besides other sizes, I think I have almost all I need for #10 up through 1/2" and have never regretted obtaining them. Not a full set, just the ones I needed. Loss has been minimal due to breakage. Much higher though from borrowers who like them so much they simply don't return them.

Good Luck, Old Salt

I've used green nail polish to tack down kynar wires when I mod pc boardc. Green nail polish is great on green boards. Hides the mods; makes them look neater.

Just don't use the nail polishes with glitter in them. The glitter is metal particles. Not something you want near a PCB or breaker panel. I had a tech bring some with glitter in it for use on pc boards. Had to tell him to try again.

The wire brushes they sell (or used to) for tarting up suede shoes are pretty small and handy.

Yup, when the dentist gives me a new toothbrush, my old one goes out to the workshop.

The scanner on my printer started making noise I opened it to find rust on the slide rods. I cleaned them with a fine wire brush and then use margarine and it has worked fine for over 5 years now.

If your engine is misfiring take a spray bottle of water and spray a fine mist over the spark plug wires while the engine is running to see if the power is breaking thru the insulation on the wires. it works really good if it's dark enough under the hood. then use a small piece of tape to cover the breaks in the wires. I have not bought a set of plug wires in many years.

Great. And putting a thumb between the screwdriver handle and your ear pads the ear somewhat.

Randall-

I use a piece of 5/16" x 3' rod welded onto the head of a 3/4" pipe plug for this. The rod is a "dull" pointed so that it doesn't puncture plastic pipe but can still be pushed into the soil. The plug is easier on the ear than a piece of rod. I guess it could be called a long stemmed small handled pointless Phillips screw drive to fit the screw driver/stethoscope category. It originated as a homemade sprinkler push-in base. I use it mostly in the spring to find leaks in the sprinkler pipes or as a locater when I want to make modifications to the system. Not bad for a home made 40 year old tool.

Good Luck, Old Salt

OK, this is not for the faint of heart, weak stomached, socially underdeveloped or sissified. It is rated PG, children must be accompanied by a parent. While in one of the hottest and humid parts of Alabama my employer gave me the task of being the company engineer overseeing the installation of several reactors and many storage tanks. To top it off the a/c in my part of the office seldom worked if the outside temp was more than 80oF. One of the big burley laborers saw how much I was sweating while out on the job with it stinging my eyes and took pity on me. He said for a 6-pack he would take the sweat out of my eyes. This was also a hard hat area so I went for it. Next day I brought 2 6-packs in a cooler and told him to get the sweat out of my eyes.

He pulled out a box of the good old style women's sanitary napkins and a bandana. I thought it was a joke but the others only chuckled at me. He wrapped the napkin in the bandana end-to-end and tied that to my head with the pad over my forehead. He then put the hard hat back on me. One hour later I was shaking his hand and turned over the six-packs. He won and I was glad for it. The pad absorbed the sweat and made my face much cooler.

One difficult thing about it was explaining to my wife why I was packing my luggage with sanitary napkins for the next trip.

I have now also used the napkins tied to the forehead while making Haz Mat entries in Level "A", the most difficult to work in, suits. The inside of the outer window often fogs up and you can clean it by simply pulling your forehead up and down on it. It does not interfere with the SCBA mask. It is certainly easier and safer than pulling you arm out of the sleeve, wiping and having to put your arm back into the sleeve.

Good Luck, Old Salt

The Master:

Do you seriously think they lasted any more than a few days ? The tin has pride of place on my kitchen shelf .

Not sure where, but I saw some TV show where they illustrated some 101 electronic circuit design. Plain old pencil, thickened lines for resistors etc. Like making batteries out of lemons, it was a hugely fun way of introducing youngsters to the 'magic' of electrickery.

Forgive my bad reading, but you just reminded me of a funny....

Yes to the pencil eraser! Even better is the harder and coarser eraser utilized for pens. They are generally white or off-white colored.

Good Luck, Old Salt

Crochet needles to fish individual wires from within wiring harnesses/bundles/'rats-nests or to pull wires out through small holes, etc.

Sail makers needles, the semicircular 3 sided ones, are also good for fishing individuals wires. They are especially good for going around bends in harness bundles. They are good for going through a group of wires wrapped with heavy thread or light whipping string. Dull the point first for these uses.

For sewing they are much easier for the infrequent user to use.

They look like a regular large needle but are semicircular and are sometimes 3-sided.

http://www.sailrite.com/4-Assorted-Curved-Hand-Sewing-Needles#.UuKFzmAo45s

Good Luck, Old Salt

Nail polish, to keep small nuts & screws from working loose. Also to lock trimpots in analog circuits (there are such beasts, even today).

Better yet, a cuppa before posting. Nail polish already mentioned.

Nail polish, to keep small nuts & screws from working loose.

I have used anaerobic gasket goo (aka blue stuff) to do this when no other thread locker is on hand--which seems to be most of the time.

Same here - when I have gasket goo. Ever wonder if it's the same stuff - only a different color and at 1/10 the price? Given what they typically charge for their thread-lock compound, you'd think Loctite makes theirs from platinum.

Blobs of clear nail varnish can be handy for keeping rust/tranishing at bay (especially on cheapish fixings). If need be you can bust thru it to retract a screw or whatever.

Carrying nail varnish might raise a few eyebrows (if you're a bloke), but that just makes it all the more fun.

Having thought about all this, I think I need to ask if I can inspect my wifes handbag. I suspect it contains many useful things (not least of which will be several of my cigarette lighters which seem to just vannish if I leave them about the house).

In days long gone by, even my none smoking friend carried cig's. In a dire emergeny you can use the silvered lining paper to short a blown fuse on a bike. Terrible practice to do so (override a fuse), but it beats being stuck in the middle of nowhere for want of a fuse. Usual disclaimers apply on that one.

Nonsense! Forget cigs. they take up too much room. Real men carry a couple of these to replace blown fuses. Just be sure the lead end points away from the genital area when in "service".

.22 caliber bullet↓

Yep, you tell that to Mrs K when she comes whip your hide. Is the queue long ? Bad boy iws gonna get whipped

You all know that screwdrivers are intended for screwing and should not be used for other things. So, I have a screwdriver that is reserved only for all those other things: chisel, pry bar, etc, etc. It's getting pretty mangled after years of getting beat on!

Sailor standing on a deck yells up to buddy on deck above.

"Hey, throw me down a big wrench."

Buddy, "What size?"

Sailor, "Don't matter, I'm gonna use it to hammer with anyway."

My uncle was a WW II Seabee. He told me that joke. And some pretty interesting stories.

Heard a variant of that from someone whom I believe was also a Seabee:

....

Suddenly a 300 pound prostitute (he used a different word) slams onto the deck next to the guy asking for the tool. He looks up.

"I said WRENCH, dammit!"

:)

Well, all I know is that President Clinton repurposed a cigar. I dunno, maybe he flunked shop class.

He also repurposed the word "is".

True, true. Repurposed one of his aides into "The President's Humidor" he did. Clever, he was.

Is.

(what does that word mean these days, anyway? It's [notice judicious placement of an apostrophe in foregoing contraction to neatly sidestep the issue] all so confusing. :))

OK, this is rated G so you don't have to send the kids away.

What are "SEX BOLTS"?

Describe the shape and function.

What are some other names for them?

I knew them by another name but this is the "official name" for them.

Do you know without googling it?

Good Luck, Old Salt

I used them to hold my thesis together.

Sex Bolts are also known as barrel bolts or Chicago bolts. Picture is self descriptive.

dkwarner, #155, stated that they can also be used to hold a thesis together.

Good Luck, Old Salt

To me, what you show is only the female half. I don't think I'd ever seen one with a tamper-resistant head like that.

If you search for Sex Bolt in McMaster Carr, It brings up a number of styles, but they label them as Binding Screws.

dkwarner-

This is the accompanying listing from the Bolt Depot,

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Printable-Tools/Fastener-Basics.pdf

Wikipedia:

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A sex bolt, also known as a barrel nut,^[1] barrel bolt, Chicago screw or post and screw,^[2][3] is a type of fastener (nut) which has a barrel-shaped flange and protruding boss that is internally threaded. The boss sits within the components being fastened, and the flange provides the bearing surface. The sex bolt and accompanying machine screw sit flush on either side of the surfaces being fastened. It is normally chosen because of its low profile compared to other nuts. The sex bolt often has a built-in feature, such as a slot, to aid in tightening the fastener. Some sex bolts, more commonly known as architectural bolts, have knurled barrels to allow one-sided assembly. Binding posts are similar to architectural bolts in that they are designed to be assembled from one side, but they have teeth on the flanged surface to keep them fixed. They were originally designed for the printing industry to bind large catalogs together.^[2]

There doesn't to seem much consistence between vendors such as; MSC, Bolt Depot, McMaster, Grainger; Fastenal; Modern Tool Supply, Screws for You; Fasteners Clearing House, etc. The only consistency is that all screws of this type are derived from the "Sex Bolt" being the overall group name of all the rest.

Personally I have never held McMaster Carr in high regard as to their nomenclature of the products they sell. This has been verified in telephone calls with them discussing this. Their nomenclature is mostly derived from marketing type personnel and not from technically experienced personnel. They readily admitted this to me and others. I now contact the actual producers of the fasteners if there is any question about the nomenclature. Much better results that way.

Good Luck, Old Salt

How about a chemical sensor made out of pencil and paper...

http://www.foxnews.com/tech/2014/01/30/ordinary-back-to-school-supplies-become-threat-detectors/?intcmp=obnetwork

Lots of good ideas for MythBusters here!