I Have No Blinkers

oh it's an 1988 chevy s10

Slow down... I think you've had enough Mountain Dew for today.

First things first: 2014 minus 1988 = 26 year old vehicle. I have known a few guys who had one of these, and I believe they were satisfied with them. So, not a bad pickup, but old and a secondhand (or third, or fourth) vehicle. Old cars have troubles like this all of the time, better get used to these little issues.

Lets start here: The blinkers don't work... what does that mean.. They never light up... light up but don't blink... All four corners?

Oh... quit buying and replacing the wrong stuff. DIAGNOSE (we might be able to help), then fix/replace the broken stuff.

ok right now all four blinkers work while driving intil I push the brake then it shorts out and blows the fuse to the blinkers

Okay, we may be able to figure this out. Slow down a little bit more.... It'll be okay. Please make your responses as complete as you are able.

Have any of the bulbs been replaced recently?
So, pops the fuse. Is the replacement fuse sized correctly? Are you sure?
Did everything work before? If yes, what was changed?

As an aside: When you have a minute, you should say 'Thank-you' to whoever sold you this vehicle instead of a Chevy Cavalier.

I've replace all the bulbs and the fuse is the right size it's a 15 a I've tried a 30 and still blows I've replace the turn switch mechmisce how ever u spell that lol what gets me is that my brake light works even when I push on the brake the fuse do sent blow it's only the turn signal and my dad gave me this truck lol but any ways my blinkers use to work but they just up and stop on me

You may have a "floating" high resistance ground in one or more of the taillight/brakelight assemblies.

In many of the older vehicles the turn signal light bulb element is the same as the brake signal bulb element.

If you have a high resistance ground connection or no ground connection, the lamps/bulbs will backfeed and you will experience some very strange issues including random fuse loss.

Also: You may have a lamp/bulb that has been installed incorrectly or the wrong type has been installed in one or more of the sockets (easy to do) and this also will cause the symptoms you are experiencing.

Try google "1988 chevy s10 blinker problem"

Lots of hits and related problems with the brake lights.

Found this and more

I've tried Google its not my break like to have a problem with Mike winters what Google pulls up is totally different it's very frustrating trying to find when I get on the internet so I thought of opening a discussion work on this website see what others can help me with

Did you change out the fog light relay?

well of funny thing is after my fuse blows if I push on my break while driving down the road and I use my turn signals only when I'm pushing on the break the blinker will work but won't blink so I have to push the handle up and down to make the blinker work to proceed my turn but only after the fuse blows and I push my break and hold my break I Can do that explain that one

I'm sticking with the idea that movement of the brake pedal is causing new paths for current....until such a time as you say you have completed a thorough check and report no such loose wires.

I di sconnected the back half of my truck and test the blinkers and they still blow the fuse then I reconnected the back Half because now I know its not on the back half so I pop the hood and I checked all possible wires against the firewall leading towards the blinkers the blinker still blow a fuse so now I know it's in the cab underneath the dashboard then I realize it has something to do with the break I've checked all possible wires and there are no loose wires no corrosion I've tried using a jumper to help lead to the short and still have nothing I replace the flashers and that didn't do it so again I'm stuck

I haven't checked for a schematic of the pickup:

This troublesome fuse... is it ONLY protecting the turn signal wiring? Is not the cigarette lighter/dome light/backup light on the same circuit?

Don't know, just a thought.

When you say "...disconnected the back half...", just what does that mean?

As previously stated, old cars, old wiring, rusty old body parts, old corroded lamp sockets...

I'm with truth - the brake petal has pinched or rubbed a bare spot on a wire under the dash, causing a short. Get under there and find it, then tape it up and move it where it doesn't get rubbed or pinched by the brake petal. Yes, I've seen it happen.

Brake "petal"? Is that some kind of flower power technology?

I'm a child of the '60's.

Two things.

It's brake, not break.

Your brake wiring is shorted to the turn signal wiring somewhere, not the pedal. There's no electrical power in the brake pedal.

Applying the brakes supplies power to the turn signal wiring downstream of the blinker/flasher, so it goes on and off with the brake lights. The turn signal stalk/switch completes the circuit.

My thought exactly. Look at the brake pedal metal itself and see if there are/is a cable/s behind the pedal lever that get/s squashed when you push the pedal. Because you blow a 30A fuse it is more likely than anything else.

FYI a bad earth connection at the lamp housing ( older vehicles only ) will give all sorts of strange stuff but not blow 30A fuse. New vehicles have an earth ( -ve ) wire and don't rely on the chassis/body for a return path, which was where all the cr4p happened.

Forget about using your blinkers.

Just get a bumper sticker that says 'My Other Car Is A BMW' and the other folks on the road will understand.

The solution here is clear.

Don't use the brakes.

Or, conversely, don't use the blinkers, just use hand signals.

try this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmko2_7xceo

Once had an early 90's S10. They are very prone to wires wearing away at the firewall Good Luck, Old Salt

Just keep replacing parts until it works the way you want!

The firewall interface is a good place to check. But since these signal wires go to the rear of the car, it might not go through the firewall. It depends on where your fuse box is located (inside the passenger space or under the hood).

Another place where short circuits occur is in the metal cover at the threshold of the driver or passenger doors. On an older car, this could be quite worn and a little movement of that cover would chafe the wires.

okay I checked under the hood by the firewall in all choirs by the brake pedal and everything seems good

Look extremely well! They are very hard to find. In moving them in order to see, you may disturb them so you can't see the broken insulation.

I had to use an ohm meter and used insulation piercing leads, one inside the cab and one outside, to trace my problem on by S-10. That way the circuit that the wire belongs to will seldom affect the reading on the meter. Just don't touch either of the leads to ground. If you can find one, a helper at least half intelligent helps when you do this.

Good Luck, Old Salt

While you're checking things, check the grounds. Battery to frame, starter to frame, and anyplace else. Checking means to take the connections apart and clean them up. A bad ground can cause mysterious things to happen.

My mom has a 2000 Impala and the blinkers intermittantly work. The Dx was easy with the Internet. In this case, it's the 4-way flasher switch. It will take about 3 hours+ to repair.

Depressing the flasher switch slightly did restore the turn signals on a number of occaisions. very temperature dependent.

What happens when you try to use the 4-way flashers?

Are the bulbs the round type with two elements in each bulb?If so,look closely at the locking pins on the bulbs:One will be set higher up on the base than the other.Then look at the hole it came out of.Two locking notches will be seen, one lower into the base than the other.Make sure that the bulb is inserted poperly.If you get it in wrong, it will blow a fuse sometimes,and it will be very hard to lock in when installing the bulb.Do you recall replacing a bulb that was very hard to insert?If so, this is probably your trouble.

Worth a check.

Good luck.

Good luck.

I admit to have only skimmed the previous responses so if I duplicate a previous response, I apologize. but This sounds like a wiring problem, the old GM bulb sockets and wiring were notorious for having wiring issues. check the wiring from all four of the bulb sockets back to the fusebox. you've got a bad connection somewhere along the way and the bulb is finding it's ground through the brake light circuit. don't forget the flat wiring harness under the floormat and any wiring going to the trailer lighting connection.

Troubleshoot electrical problems in the dark, the sparks are easier to see. Take out the interior lights. Position yourself under the dash in front of the drivers seat and have a buddy watch under the hood where the wiring passes through the firewall. Press the brake pedal with your hand. If there is a short, (which this sounds like) the spark(s) will show you where the problem is.