Adjusting the Arbor Size on a Wet Saw

You mean the thingy in the center? I'd try an outfit like Harbor Freight.

Thanks... They have a wetsaw very similar to the one I got, but it has a 5/8 arbor... Maybe I should just return it and try to get one from them instead...

There are blade shims available for saw blades to accomodate different sized shafts, and they are sometimes supplied with saw blades and may be diamond-shaped or square (with one already installed), but you may have problems with thickness and thread length on the shaft of your tile saw. You may also find thicker washers/flanges for the 7/8" shaft that will clamp your thinner saw blade. As long as the torque on the saw blade is not so high that a round shaft shim will allow the blade to slip, everything should work OK.

Cheaper than a new saw . . .

Great, that's the term I needed: "blade shims". Excellent point about the thicker washers or flanges for the thinner blades - I hadn't even thought about it.

I'll talk to the saw supplier and to the blade suppliers and see what they have to say about shims and flanges.

Thank you Bill.

You will find this very interesting

Hi artsmith,

Try these links. You should be able to get an arbour that fits the blade and your machine. Like other Circular Saws they are usually sold in certain sizes, ½" ~12 mm, ¾" ~18, and 1" ≡ 25.4 mm.

diamond-saw-blade

Try this above first.

1. Hot Pressed Super Thin Diamond Turbo Saw Blade for Marble - China ...China Hot Pressed Super Thin Diamond Turbo Saw Blade for Marble and China diamond tools,diamond blade,diamond saw blade,wet blade,granite blade,saw blade ...
   www.made-in-china.com/.../China-Hot-Pressed-Super-Thin-Diamond-Turbo-Saw-Blade-for-Marble.html - Cached - Similar
2. Shopping results for thin diamond 'wet' saw blade

   115mm Porcelain & Ceramic Extra Thin Diamond Cut Blade £25.35 new - eBayFEIN 63502116014 SUPERCUT THIN DIAMOND COATED SAW BLADE £91.94 new - Direct Brand Tools115mm Porcelain & Ceramic Thin Turbo Diamond Cut Blade £11.50 new - eBay

I know exactly what you mean but it has been about ten years since I last used a diamond saw, so I am going on memory. I had a spindle which I bought when I got the blade and also some 'locking' arbors which held the blade tight to the spindle, which was driven on a very small motor away from any water.

The saw will probably be pretty slow and the mass moving will be nothing like that of a circular saw for wood.

Try these. And keep in touch.

Are these DTL06HPA too coarse.

Thanks guys. I see there are a few blades available with the right arbor size. But the prices are on the high side and/or they don't provide complete specifications: how thin is it really? How smooth a cut can it provide? It would have to be very long lasting to be worth twice the price of the saw itself.. I realize, blades are not immortal and are the big cost associated with this kind of work...

The blade that came with the machine, available from the supplier at about $24 a pop, is a bit thicker than 1/16, but looks a bit rough - I don't expect a smooth cut. It should be fine for a first cut on rough, but I'd like to have a thinner blade for finer work, and I'm not even setting up the machine until I'm certain that I will have the option of using a different blade.

These people here at ukam have a great site with a lot of information about blades for different purposes, and they list all the specifications as well as the prices. I just dropped them an email to ask about shims or other solutions to this problem. We'll see what they have to say...

I did the same thing with a wet saw.

The washers on my machine actually stepped up from a 5/8 to 7/8, the actual shaft on the saw was 5/8.

So, the problem was to get some washers that didn't have the step. I found them at a local hardware store for "DIY" saw arbours. The final problem was now the nut wouldn't tighten far enough. I just added a few plane washers and now it clamps the blade fine.

If you do need to step up, just take a set of 7/8 saw washers, bore them out to 1". Then use a short "pipe" with OD 1" and ID 7/8" and slide the works over the shaft.

It really helps to have a lathe.

If you use a thin lapidary blade you may want larger diameter "washers" to support the blade closer to the table for added stiffness.

Hi artsmith,

Thank you for your reply post.

If I have missed it I apologise, but can you tell me what Diameter Saw you can use on your machine, and the size of the shaft.

Do you have any Books or other knowledge of stone cutting?

You say the cost of some saws is expensive. You should not compare the Blade price with the machine you use it in, but compare it to the money earned, or the joy on the face of friends and Relatives as you give them something which is one-of-a-kind, and is something very special?

If you have not used a 'Wet 'Diamond' Saw', you should realise the saws 'shelf-life' is down pretty much to how hard and big the stone being cut is.............. Of course.

It also helps to prolong life if the saw is dried after use, and if not on the Saw it should be cleaned and very lightly wiped with Vaseline and, stored somewhere that keep it flat and away from Sun and water like rain. This may seem a ridiculous way to treat it when it is used wet anyway, but it will mean it will last longer and the next time you use it the cut will be as thin as possible and as smooth as possible.

You note I mention "Diamond Saw"? I say this because these are the Saws which last the longest, though it is not critical if you use it for trimming and or infrequently. However, the 'cutting' medium embedded in the saw, and the basic metal the saw is made from, will effect its life and cut width and smoothness.

I was cutting to split stone into slices which were then polished so I used a Saw which 'Diamonds' were around the edge only. The Saw was perhaps 1 mm thick, but the 'diamonds' were about 2 mm. Bear in mind that the saw has not much 'intrinsic' strength and, on the type I used, the slightly thicker edge allowed about .5 mm clearance from the saw body. I have not used a contiguously face-coated Diamond Saw, so have no experience of them, though of course I can find info' on them.

Please get back to me as soon as possible and I can help you find a saw, once I know which size and type, you need.

Good luck and take care

Some of the blades we use for gemstones are just a few thousands thick! They are actually rather flexible, but when you measure a stone in carrots, you don't want to waste anything!

Hi GW,

I thank you for your reply post.

Some of the blades we use for gemstones are just a few thousands thick! They are actually rather flexible, but when you measure a stone in carats, you don't want to waste anything!

I can understand not wanting to use a valuable Gem by cutting half away! But, as I say in my previous post, it is how the Saw is used as much as the cost or specification? Obviously with extremely thin blades, you will need maybe three or four differing grades plus the initial slabbing Saw, and it is the speed to a degree, that gives these Saws the strength. But of course the way they are used with a gentle pressure and solid hold on the stone to be cut, is as vital?

The other thought which should be kept in mind, is, even if several basic types and or grades of Saws are bought, that cost is minimal when compared to other 'Hobbies' costs. And there is nothing like that special joy on a face when the item made is a gift. It is the only one in the world like it?

Take care.

babybear, these are the specs of the machine:

the arbor (or shaft) is 7/8 inch. it takes a diamond blade minimum diameter 6 inches and maximum 7 inches. (It came with a 7 inch blade).

the brand name of the saw is "Power Fist" sold at Princess Auto. It's a table mount type saw with water reservoir below, basically for tile cutting, identical in design to a lapidary trim saw. It has one speed only that is no load speed of 3600 RPM.

I've never used one of these before: I've seen video on you tube (lapidary demos).

I totally agree that it is worth the cost to make something unique from stone you cut and polished yourself. Just bearing in mind that if the cost is too high, my use of it will be limited. Thank you for the tip on blade maintenance.

Hi artsmith,

Thanks for the reply post.

I had a 6" ~ 150 mm, which sounds a good size but the actual cut depth is about 1" ≡ 25.4 mm. I had no surround on my Saw and could increase the Saw size to fit my pocket? I had all kinds of plans but never used a larger Saw.

I suggest you use a similar site to the one you put the link of in your post to me, to 'learn' more but also take what you read with a huge pinch of salt, OK?

Thin blades are much more fragile, and if you need to use a very this one you will also need a trimming Saw as well.

Take care.

Hey Artsmith, you are in Canada!

Send me a picture, a sketch of what you want, and I will see if I can make the washers for you one evening.

My wife is an avid collector, faceter. (I am patient.)

Hey GW. I'm on the Rock. Which seems like a good place for lapidary, but there's not much of it going on afaik.

I work as a silversmith, making jewelry, and it is my great desire to use some of the material that I have collected locally. There's a beach near where I live, with some beautiful jaspers, green chert, chalcedony, quartz crystals, carnelian in blue or black matrix, sardonyx, and some pink and grey and purplish feldspars. I am a hopeless rockhound. I can't go to the beach without coming back with a bag full of rocks. Don't know if your wife is interested in such humble things, but they are lovely to me. Could send you some rocks for your washers.

Also since I work with imported () stone, inevitably I end up with some badly cut or polished stuff which could be put to use if properly cut and finished. Labradorite is the worst - it's beyond me how anyone would cut the stone so that the chatoyance is only showing on the edge instead of facing forward. I assume they just fed the stone into a machine without thinking. Happens all the time. I would want to use a really thin blade, like you mentioned above for gemstones, to slice this stuff the right way.

(Then, of course, I'll need to get polishing and cabbing equipment ..)

I'm waiting to hear from the blade people at ukam, still not sure whether I should keep this saw and go to the trouble of adapting it, or send it back and get something with the more usual arbor size, made especially for lapidary work....

Hi artsmith,

Thanks for the details of the machine. It it a pretty basic one, and you will find the centre hole on a Saw is usually linked to some way match the size and hence use of the saw. You should be able to find any Saw size (up to 7" ~175 mm) and type to fit any size of shaft. You will find the thinner blades will be easier to use and less fragile when used with a larger Arbor.

I just read your last post which mentions you are a real beachcomber rock-hound, sound just like me! Many people do not appreciate the beauty around them though?

I get a real buzz when cracking open a flint to find crystals inside, and I am the first to have ever seen them. The 'dull' boring look on some of these stones hide a Aladdin's cave of gorgeous gems. I ended up with a couple of out-buildings of 'finds' and also recall the effort, if that is the correct word, perhaps 'enjoyment' would be closer to what I feel when I realise just how special a find is, you know?

I would imaging the bad stones you have are ground as 'piece-work' so there will rarely be a decent stone under such conditions?

Take care.

Attach a picture of the machine and the spindle and arbor.

Measure (mike) the shaft and threads.

What is the max OD for the arbor?

I'm in Surrey, BC.

Be extra sure to stabilize your piece if you use an ultra thin blade. Even though the thin blade is not sharp and has no teeth, it still cuts you pretty quick when it is spinning. Just think of some thin shim stock and how it can cut.

All Rock hounds are hopeless.

And what does your estate do with that multi thousand dollar collection when you die? To the Dump?

I am repeatedly told it is an appreciating asset.

I think people only look at it and appreciate the appearance.

I'll check all those details, get pix and back to you in a day or so.

"And what does your estate do with that multi thousand dollar collection when you die?"

humph. Well since it's probably all I'm leaving, they might build a cairn out of it Or a small but useful outbuilding...

Admit it, getting a wetsaw going is a step in the right direction.. from rocks to usable materials - which I otherwise have to buy for my business. The faceting that your wife is doing is adding value to raw materials. Her assets are, in fact, appreciating, because of her work on them if nothing else.

If I can finish the stone I have collected, I will be making something with it, and I will make money on it, I guarantee it.

You see, when I was four years old I found some chalcedony pebbles. I asked what kind of stone it was, and was told it was quartz. I asked if it was worth something. And mother said, yes, she supposed it was worth something. So I asked how much it was worth and she kept saying she didn't know, she didn't know. So finally I asked is it worth five cents, and she said yes, she supposed it was worth five cents... With that triumphantly in mind I went straight to the corner store and attempted to buy candy with my pebbles. So you see, I have an instinct for this kind of thing.. only now I know you have to (cut polish set and) sell em first.

Got it ozzb. Exactly what is needed, and only a couple of bucks. Bravo, thanks.

Hi ozzb,

GA to you for your find.

Take care.

Hello artsmith,

The ref' you make to " UKAM ". ....................

Firstly, let me say it is a good sight but, do not get carried away by the 'SPIN' and head-lines and headings of the sight.

They are 'SELLING' saw blades, and if they can put more "info'" on the sight, which may or may not be of use to you, including all and any of the Math, they will do so!

Remember, the way you use, and how long the blade lasts, .................. IS ENTIRELY down to the way you use it. You can spend a whole lot of money, but if the saw is used for little less than an 'axe', any fancy composite saw could and does break and or get damaged.

What you need to do is actually 'touch' the blade or blade types you want and you will get a much better idea of the possibilities. You could also do as I did and take a short length of the shaft you are using when you are looking for a Saw, and you can then see how the Saw and Arbor's 'fit' together.

One thing which will make your Saw last longer is to fix the stone to be cut solidly. This will also be the safest way to work.

Just advice, OK?

Take care.

You may find precision bushings can be dipped into hot water then slipped onto the arbor to adapt it to the blade ID.

GW can make you some

Checkout stone cutting tools on globalspec

http://www.inlanddiamond.com/TurboBlades.htm

Thanks bwire. I am pretty much staggered by the variety of blades available. I guess I will learn something more about them over time.

The ukam blades actually weren't available in the 6 or 7 inch size with a 1 inch arbor hole. But one of my regular suppliers carries some lapidary equipment, and has a suitably thin, right diameter blade in the 1". I'll check with the people at ozzb's link to make sure the bushing adaptor is good for blades of this thickness, then... aaway to go!

Our major sales event is early in November this year, so I'm on the production schedule from hell at the moment, but that gives me time to order the adaptor and the thinner blade to arrive in the meantime... expect a post back late november, with pix of my cuttins!

Hi Kilowatt0,

Thanks for posting the site diamond pacific. I wish there had been a site like it when I was cutting stones, there wasn't though.

I am sure this and other sites mentioned on this thread will be really handy and useful to others with the same interests, and the machines are not that expensive.

GA to you Sir.

Thanks babybear. My wife is the rockbrain, I'm her rockmule! But I always know what to get her for special occasions!

Sounds familiar.

Except it is now hard to find specimens that match the quality of her collection.

However, if it is a hard form of carbon, mounted in a ring or pendant, and as long as it has good clarity, colour, and cut, I get no hastle. And size matters.

(It takes about 30 seconds before it goes under the microscope!)

Hi Kilowatt0,

I appreciate your return reply my friend. No problems you earned the GA!

It is unusual for a woman to be the rock-hound?

Good luck and great 'finds'!

Take care

KIlowatt0, that catalogue is amazing. There is a very good overview of safety issues for blades of different size and thickness on pages 49 - 50, which any new wetsaw user should read.

According to this, I should get some experience with the wetsaw before trying a very thin blade. The dremel is a good option for smaller stuff. Thanks.