Repairing Hairline Cracks in Ceramic Glaze

Don't show it to Del.

Look for local ceramics shop. Have them look at it. It could be re-glazed sealing up the cracks.

I'll see if I can find someone nearby to ask.

I think a big problem is going to be that there must by now be quite a lot of water under the glaze, & it would have to be dried out (to the same state as the result of biscuit firing) before the glaze could be re-flowed, or I'd end up with mug-crumbs.

Reglazing and firing is not an option. The printing would never survive. Something that would not pose a health issue would be needed to seal the glaze but not ruin the taste of the coffee. Unless you make it real strong and can't tell the difference. I'll look around and see what I can come up with.

Isn't there a replacement in the KrisDel^TM catalogue? Unbelieveable!

If all else fails try here!!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260509617894&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=WXI6&GUID=65bdc7b01260a0aad4a0d070ff4811b9&itemid=260509617894&ff4=263602_263622

Thanks, but unfortunately the ones on eBay are only available from the US, and would cost about $25 carriage (plus cost of mug). I'm not that mad about it! (Anyway, it was a gift & it wouldn't "feel right" getting another copy).

I have checked the washing machine...there is no Fud in there.
Del

Funny, I was thinking about your mug just this morning as I was cleaning my Roswell NM Alien mug. Back in my high school days, my best friends father made a tile countertop for their house. I asked him what would keep water from the sink from getting through the tiles. His solution was a silicon product that soaked into the grout and any cracks in the tile. The silicone seeped into the crack and sealed it but wiped off the glazed tile. This might be the stuff, I dont think it could hurt to try.

You should dry the mug thoroughly first, either put it in the oven on a low heat or you could risk microwaving it empty a few times then let it sit on your hot water heater for a day or so. I wouldn't seal the bottom though, because if any moisture should get in again you want to leave it an exit.

Drew

That's the sort of fix I was thinking of - don't know how well it would soak into such tiny cracks though, unless it was pretty thin to start with. I'll look around for a UK outlet/equivalent.

Also wondering about products like Radweld & Kalimex K-seal.

I like the GA on BBT, got a vacuum chamber handy? It was correct to try to dissolve the stains out first, or at least bleach them.

I keep forgetting you are across the pond (I loose track sometimes!). Go to local DIY and ask about tile sealant keep looking till you find the one that is a think liquid silicone. The stuff we used was about the consistency of thin milk. It should still seep in cracks.

Drew

For the edification of others, this is a link to the post to which Drew was referring.

Just put a 1/8" of potting compound in the bottom of the mug! haha Jk although a food grade epoxy might do the trick.

I think this may be slightly more pertinent to some of us "gifted" types here on CR4

-T

"Just put a 1/8" of potting compound in the bottom of the mug ..."

Don't think I haven't considered it! Trouble is, the coating would have to go most of the way up the sides as well - 4 or 5 of the cracks go up to within about 20mm of the rim.

yeah but you could colour the potting compound brown and just pretend you always had a full cuppa...

Could be fun if I stuck a spoon in it .

Have you thought about shrink/vacuum packing it in a heat resistant material?

Or coating it with carbon fibre - or just the resin - on the inside?

I still think whortleberries are the best answer.

Maybe lie cup on side*. Put car jack on lower inner face, use a suitable bit of timber to bridge the gap between jack and upper inner face of bath. Jack like crazy..wait for bang.

*Lieing bath on side is a serious safety point as it ensures a) You have no water in the cup . b) You have remembered to get out first.

If using a sledge hammer should you hit long side or short side? Should you break it in or out????

(When I nod my head, you hit it)

*Lieing bath on side is a serious safety point

I see you preserved the spelling mistake and original text at this point....

If the coffee was proper strength, it wouldn't leak out.

From: Tim Hawley Master Mech.

I like Garth's response its very technical and funny.

Looks like it got to hot in the microwave!

Anyway, If you use chemicals to fix it you may not want to you it afterwords.

So install a plastic sandwich bag inside and fill it with candy.

Regards,

Tim

Here's a link to a discussion of an alternate method of repair

Garthh:

See also here

I like the vacuum chamber idea. I have used it with different products. A good jeweler in the area woould have one the cup would fit into. It would help pull whatever sealant you choose into the cracks

Hi Rustyh2o,

No contest to your numbers but please, you can multiply by at least two your advanced 1.1 billion. I was in China, and they are over 1.3 billion alone. Add India and Africa, and we are already half of the Earth population. Good morning tap water!!!

The coffee cup story was already made by me about 20 years ago. The coffee cup was good for year. I just laugh about. The cup costs at the moment less than 50 cents, and I passed 2 days to achieve what I wanted.

It was done and I am still alive but the cup is probably get into dust, Gil.

Yes you are probably right in your numbers. I am just going by the "Informed" groups estimate. The average American doesnt know what a billion is anyway.

Hi Rustyh2o,

Please, don't accuse the Americans to misunderstand numbers. We have to tell to reporters and TV announcers to not repeat faulty informations. For them rapidity to copy someone else words or sentences is the most important and not the information.

To confirm that, listen and only once to Jon Stewart's Daily Show, late the evening.

Now, because the pollution of Oceans, we get less and less fish, we will add another half or a complete billion to my previous numbers. It's hilarious the way we use our natural resources, isn't it? I hope someone start a blog about food, quantity of food, availability for who? You understand what I want to explain. I wish to tickle the brain of more brainy people than me, and we talk about something more important.

Have a good day or the best if you want, Gil.

Why is it that NO ONE ever talks about the real problem (over population of the Earth)?

I suspect it is to avoid stepping on religious toes of many colors...

Yeah

you have to take a test to drive

any pair of yahoos with the appropriate body parts can churn out a dozen replicates, with nary a thought as to how to turn the little darling into fully functioning humans.

This is in Ceramic industry is called mud cracking syndrome. This is typical of some one tried to heat at higher rate than evaluation of water vapor out of clay causing surface to form skin and then vapor below the skin cracked the skin like dry mud in summer.

This happened when some one either started with wrong ratio of water to clay or tried to make few pennies more by drying faster and making this to form hire line crack and let that go to furnace in hope it will heal off during the firing.

I have seen this type of cracks during my graduate work and also see some time when operator on line make a mistake in drying or paste formulation.

Best thing to do is discard and buy new one if no sentimental value is attached to this. If there is sentimental value attached then take to the pottery shop and ask then to put first thinned ink to penetrate in these crack and dry it followed by less diluted coating both side and dry and fire it. Ask the guy not to go more than 2 to 5 C /minute drying temperature to 75C and dry for at least 12 hr followed by high temperature firing in normal cycle and things will be okay

Here's a possible replacement:

Alternatives can be found here and following.

Bizarre. When I tested that link yesterday, it took you straight here, in the discussion...

Well, Grasshopper, your link in #27 was:

http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/13355?frmtrk=cr4sd&Pg=101#comment514971,

referring to a comment on page 101. Your new link is:

http://cr4.globalspec.com/comment/514971/Cuppa-scrounging-Technique.

The target comment has moved to page 102, so the first link opens page 101, then can't find the comment.

K?

Master Po, I thank you for your wise and insightful comments

<bows low in supplication>

Hello JohnDG,

To eliminate what you don't want to see, follow the instruction. First, ask a distributor to get 250 or 500 grams of Sulfamic acid. Please, don,t drink it and keep in safe place away from children. Also, buy a small 2-pack epoxy Crazy-Glue at building centre. When you get the acid, put the your coffee cup in water in heat the water to boil, maintain 5 minutes, and let water cool down with cup in. Dissolve around 100 grams of acid in half litre of room temperature water. Immerse completely your coffee cup in the acidic water, and keep it in for 15 to 20 minutes. Take of the cup and rinse with clear water at least three times, and let air-dry. The coffee coloured cup is looks like brand new. If you see some brownish marques, repeat immersion in acid solution once more or twice if needed. When you are satisfied, take the 2-pack epoxy and put a little quantity, around 1 or 2 grams on a hard plastic, and with a quewtip apply a very thin coat on the crack and be sure you cover with the epoxy. Let cure overnight at room temperature. The next day, put in the oven and heat just a little bit, around 50 to 75*C for at least 15 to 30 minutes. Let cool down. Check with your finger nail if you can scratch the excess of the epoxy around and on the top of the cracks. If you judge soft, heat again to the temperature of around 100 to 125*C for 2 hours, and let cool down. You can sand the excess of epoxy if you find non agreable the glossy areas over the cracks. The work is delicate but if you want to use your coffee cup as you want, do the suggestion or buy a new and don't use it.

The cleaned cooffee cup will look like new and you can drink from it again. Please, try to drink espresso at place of coffee. It's twice better! First as taste is stronger, and second less water in the cup. Let me know! However, if you want to continue to only drink cooffee, please all pleasures are yours, Gil.

Hi Gil, thanks for the advice. Tell the truth, I'm not too worried about what the inside looks like, and the outside (as you'll see from the pics) is in a pretty good state anyway.

As for sealing the cracks, I'd have to cover a large proportion of the inside bottom of the mug to get them all, using the approach you suggest of applying epoxy over each crack individually. What I'd like is something like an epoxy, thin enough to seep into the cracks - then rinse-off-able before curing at, say, 100 - 120ºC (i.e. in a domestic oven at a low setting). I'll keep your solution in mind in case larger cracks appear.

I agree about the espresso - unfortunately we don't have a machine at work - sadly, not even a filter machine, percolator or even cafetière () - we're stuck with instant ().

John, do we have to solve ALL your problems for you?

Why don't you take in your own cafetière? It's not like it needs PAT approval .

A bag of freshly ground, small pot of cream, sugar if you do, and...Bob's your uncle !

Hmmm... guess that's a possible. We've got a PAT tester, so I could certify myself anyway. Problem would be making sure it didn't get hijacked. As it is I sometimes have to rifle through colleague's drawers to locate my cutlery (where they've dumped it, unwashed, and left it to fester).

[BTW, I do sugar, I don't cream.]

[Woman went into a bar and asked for a double entendre ...]

I don't coffee, so why am I giving you advice about how to make it?

Why are listening....

But I do coco....

take the cup to a ceramic shop and have them fire off the glaze and reglaze the piece. They can reglaze and fire but this is just a bandaid resolution. Totally reglazing after the old glaze is fired off is the answer.

Hello!

You don't like that mess? Buy a new one and stop to complain! Ah, you need money? A bank is all the time around the corner!

If you want to make money, expose the pictures in many areas and collect money from visitors.

The epoxy system works, try it, and don't complain that we not helping you!!! Gil.

Clearly you need some of this.

Hi GM1964,

No thanks! I can make my epoxies myself but I suggest a nice and brand new coffee mug for you or everyone around you. Good shopping during the weekend, and let me know your findings, Gil.

Hey - sounds like the right kind of stuff!

Funny - I spend half the day fighting the crap RS website (<rant>bring back the old one - was a time (when the catalogue was on CD & the website was more-or-less the same) when you could do proper searches which actually found what you were looking for</rant>), but didn't think to look (prob'ly because of the aforementioned shortcomings).

Only thing I need to check out a bit more is the datasheet section of physical properties:

APPEARANCE Viscous Liquid

COLOUR Colourless

MELTING POINT (°C) <0 RELATIVE DENSITY 1.01 @ 20 °c

VISCOSITY mPas @ 25 °c FLASH POINT (°C) >160 Not noted.

Be nice to know how many mPas there were - I already guessed that those were the units. (<rant>Friggin' RS website.</rant>)

I use the black stuff for potting cables used under potable water. Just don't burn it!!

Hi GM1964,

I already told that I can make most of epoxy compositions, hardeners and resin combinations. Watch your iniutial. Today, it's relating difficult time and probably the end of an era in the manufacturing of 4 wheeled and engine loaded vehicle. However, if youlike to be pointed or fingered out by many passing people, it's OK for me. Think for the chagement, and if you need help, we all are here to respond to your alarming question, Gil.

Could we have that in English please?

Just read a small article in this months Popular Science about using thermo cure epoxy to repair potable water lines. The epoxy is applied, and cured using hot water or steam. This sounds like the ticket.

only if you drink

iced coffee

Hi Kramarat,

Stop to read "Popular Science"! Stop to use "Epoxies"! Stop to talk about "potable water lines, and mainly, never suggest something to solve any problem to someone you don't know personally! Do you undrstand!? Some people like to make a joke, which creates laughing time but suggestions, never! Explain to Garhtt that it's not your fault. He will be happy, I am convinced about it, Gil.

I saw a different article in PS

If you can afford to try on some waste ceramic cracked or broken alternate item, say a broken porcelain cup, the following try can get you closer guidance. Later you can try it on your favourite mug.

Take about 100 parts of calcium silicate, add bit of china clay and plaster of paris- make a past allow it to cold set. Check for leakage.

If curing in needed, then try oven furnace or micro oven heating.

The other way is to get a fresh silica or molten glass coat from a local glass foundry unit.

The other way out is to get it done through ceramic painting artists, a new painted coat- the artists will be having recipe for the durable paint formula. You can seal the cracks possibly.

Best of luck.

Hi S,

Wait a minute! We talking about a mug. It's value is limited to around $1, US or Canadian, and I don't know in rupies. We don't want to mobilize the whole porcelain industry. Buttger, in around 1710, already did what we talking about. He was the expert and still it!

In the second wue, thanks for your gentle and educative explanations. We stay with you and support you for your wants and needs to correct the failure of the manufacturer but we don't know what will happen to the famous coffee cup in question. We have to wait for the answer from the mug owner, Gil.

Del the cat

says

he looked in the dryer & there was no food whatsoever contained within

The OP already indicated that the mug was a valued gift - sentimental value.

I seem to get most of my mugs free, but the last one I bought was US$5, and I thought that was a reasonable price. It was a fundraiser, but your $1 limit is way too low, at least in California.

Hello DKWarner,

We are deviating to human psychology or something similar. "Sentimental value has value and can lose it drastically. For example, you are married with a beautiful girl who loves you like crazy from the moment you put the ring on the finger in fron of your best friends and others. The life is beautiful for the next six months and you drink coffee from the mug offert by your dulcinee=lady-love. I love the French word! Now, it happens something that will cut your desire to use the coffee mug, which was, I don't say "is", a sentimental and valued gift. You lovely half cheats on you! You discover the inconfort and you de-value the coffee mug to the last item you want to see on this funny Earth. I understand your reaction - chemical, physic, psychologic, and very human. So, my "$1" value was a very exact estimation, and in the near and long-term future, please, don't tell me or any other freshly married men that a gift is sentimental and valued to the extremes.

Now, we all are on the same level of knowledge about the price of an ordinary coffee cup, sorry for the mug, we can return to our real subject.

$1 is equal to 100 cents, I talking about our beloved currency. This is already in the "Metric System", the best, the easiest to understand and calculate subdivisions and other multiplications. Water we drink is the best example. It is obedient to change form at 0*C from solid to liquid, again at 100*C from liquid to gas or vapour, and stay inodour and uncoloured. It is following the same Metric System. Don't tell me that ice is blue and snow is white, it's only your impression. The sole or unique problem I can see that is not allow to Americans to switch because the names. One is Celsius very Roman like Cesar, and they don't know history before 1492, and the other is Fahrenheit. But the second looks like German at place of English?! OK, I got it! This was the moment of important German immigration to the USA, and influence is a very important and decisive attitude. So, we clarified that too, I ask something else from you to suggest why the Americans did not jumped to the "Universal System"?

I forgot to mention that the first paragraph's story started in California and now, it's like pollution. Check TMZ for imformation about the mentionned situation, Gil.

Regarding cost/benefit analysis of replacement, please see #8

In the UK a mug like that would cost £5 - £15 ($8 - $24) or 367 - 1103 Indian Rupees.

Try here for conversions.

And that's jus tthe monetary value. JDG has already explained it was a gift and therefore has sentimental value.

Hello English Rose,

I already told that I drink exclusively espressos and never coffees. So! I need for my espresso a smaller cup and the price is smaller too because I am not a rich person like someone else who has the tendency to keep her/his pounds, dollars, and rupees for more important things in life. I don't care about of the money for a cup, which will give me boundless pleasures buy drinking my favoured drink after boiled water with or without a "green tea" bag.

Sorry for the large expenses for the Indian friends (ratio: expenses versus revenue) but they don't drink too much coffee if my knowledge about people's habits is accurate.

Cheeze, I have to stop because my language become as politicians use, Gil.

John Prescott?

Gil Becker,

Nice meeting you in CR4. Whenever some problems are put forth, some how I feel like putting in all my ideas which is of a relevant understanding to me[Half baked Chemist ?].

The thing is, I step into the stand of the O.P and analyse to solve as if it is my own.

The other remedy ,I could add is the application of silicon resin or silicon emulsion along with say white cement by brush to fill the cracks and being transparent, it should not be looking odd. Dry curing is necessary.

One more option is to cut round and paste ceramic surface stickers over the cracked surface.

Since the mug is valuable to the O.P, he can try the same on waste broken cups or ceramic pieces and proceed further.

Here ya go JD:

The coffee cup you can work in.

And here's our Telemarketing Department!

Or, if you want to cross-pollinate.......

I don't get it.

Thanks to everyone so far for their helpful suggestions.

Still haven't hit on an approach I'm 100% with, so keep 'em coming.

Sodium silicate will penetrate into the cracks.

Heated to 550C, cures into an inert glass.

Can heat the cup (slowly) with a blow torch.

I have made a refractory cement by loading sodium silicate solution with alumina and then curing as above. That one was good to about 1500C operating temp but cured at about 600C.

The sodium silicate must have the water driven out slowly, otherwise it foams. (That is the basis for quite a good insulator actually).

Hello Sceptic in the South side of the Ball,

I am in progress to tell: Buy another mug for your habit of drinking coffee. Why? Less expensive! I have to buy an oven and a furnace for better results? There will be too high price for a mug.

Also, you talk about silicates, sodium silicates, but you never mentinned the ratio between Ca(OH)2 and SiO2. What's happening here? You want to create difficulties for people trying to be obedient to you? It's not very nice! Soooo, the next time we want complete standard operation procedures with all clear and precise formulations because people in this blog want to learn better way than in a school. From kindergarden to university, I am talking! This is the school for us, so teach the way supposed to be, Gil.

I'm wondering whether sodium chlorate mixed with sucrose and a bit of silicon dioxide would do the trick - I could fill the mug & heat gently with a propane torch, so that when the energy from the first two was released, the SiO₂ would fill and seal the cracks. What do you think?

Any time you have tongue in cheek, you need to make the bulge VERY obvious! Yes - there are plenty among us, not to mention those just passing through, who know enough chemistry to try what you suggest, but who don't know that part of chemistry indicating that what you suggest is dangerous! I've actually worked professionally as a chemist (wine), but either didn't know or didn't remember that this is a dangerously explosive mixture...

Hi DK,

I don't need any knowkedge specific to undertstand most of the use of chlorates. You really think it was a "tongue in cheek" to tell that JohnDG's suggestion is dangerous. Try it yourself and before the experimentation tell someone else to make a complete report of you and the area close to you. Yes, someone else because you will be not able to report us of the enjoyable and colourful event. Also, don't forget to use a "propane torch" as mentionned by the smart attention.

I am not a guard or an expert on "endangering" people, and also I don't promote hate and violence. It's the moment to tell to collaborators of any blog to do as nicely and friendly as possible their comments, Gil.

This may be a reach, but do you have access to a vacuum chamber perhaps? Possibly a vacuum dessicator (for film, that sort of thing).

I got one surplus (company's asset sale) and used it to seal a cracked ceramic seal using polymer-based grout sealer. I submerged the part (flat in this case) in a shallow tray and put it in the vacuum chamber, then pumped it down until the sealer just started to bubble at slightly above 20 mm Hg (vapour pressure of water at STP). The part outgassed as well and I watched it until the little streams of bubbles more or less stopped, then I quickly vented the chamber. The return to atmospheric pressure forced the polymer deep into the cracks and pores which had previously been occupied by air. I let the part sit there in the sealer for awhile, then removed it and let it dry, then wiped it and set it aside for a day.

The ceramic part was a high-vacuum high-voltage feed-thru for a vacuum chamber and very expensive. The bluddy thing didn't leak at all after my treatment. I'm thinking you could do the same thing to your mug if you didn't want to risk shattering it by heating it too much. With the vacuum chamber I was able to carefully regulate how fast the piece outgassed. Too fast and there's no advantage because the thing would blow apart just as if I'd heated it with a torch.

I have no idea where you work nor if they'd have something like a vacuum chamber available for your use. Possibly a local college or uni would let you use theirs?

Some others have suggested similar approaches - you've encapsulated it nicely.

I've now relegated the mug to a window-sill. I picked it up once - full of hot coffee - and I felt, rather than heard, the "click" (for want of a better name) of a crack propagating down (or up) the side of the mug. Fortunately, it didn't fall asunder, and I put it down safely before the coffee leaked out too much.

I now have to consider whether it's practical to repair it such that it won't fall apart when filled with hot coffee and held over my lap.

Do you think that using your technique (with a jubilee clip or simillar around the mug) would yield a safe mug - as far as it's possible to construct such a thing?

If you're going to drink hot coffee in that mug, you'd best do it here.

Jubilee clip, eh? I've used those for years and, over here, I've always known them simply as 'hose clamps.' You learn a new thing every day!

I'm not sure whether that would work or not although it would certainly have an interesting impact on the cup's aesthetics (imparting a sort of a grunge/industrial motif methinks). If that's acceptable then give it a try.

Now, if that were my treasured cup, I'd take it to a ceramic repair shop and have them re-fire the cup at low temperature using a gold or silver filler. That would make it look really awesome, IMHO.

Hello Sceptic,

Sorry, I made an error! You need to tell us the mole ratio of the SiO2/Na2O of your Silicate. I am getting old!

I suggest to use a solution of Sodium Silicate at mole ratio of 3.23 (29.5 of SiO2 and 9.1 of Na2O) with a density of 1.41, pH of 11.3, and viscosity of around 400 cps. In Canada, we have The PQ Corporation supplying all Silicates, and the mentionned is a Sodium Silicate "O". Visit the Internet. For good penetration you have to dilute to around 10% solids with water (1 Silicate with 4 water by weight) and apply as penetrating sealer for concrete and other cement based products, which contain lime to form a hard, insoluble gel within the pores and cracks, thus closing the small voids. For the fun, check the NASA's US Patent 3,620,784 and 4,162,169. Interesting! Also, treating with penetrating sealer at lower solids, we don't need heating at all, Gil.

It was years ago when I made the ceramic glue.

I used the sodium silicate I could get hold of and didn't know the molar ratio. It doesn't seem to be critical, provided you have a low viscosity. The water must be taken out as slowly as possible.

It will need to be cured otherwise you are relying on acids in the coffee to make it insoluble. I'd prefer not to take that risk.

Curing can be done with a blow torch.

Slowly heat the cup by putting the blow torch steadily closer until it is poking inside. Sounds rough but it works with care.

After the cup seems hot enough, let it cool slowly (keep draughts away or the cup may crack).

Should then be OK to use.

The advantage of using sodium silicate is that the treatment should be permanent. I've always found that epoxies tend to come adrift after a while. Maybe I haven't been using them correctly.

I think I read those 2 NASA patents thoroughly when I worked at James Hardie R&D department. Tried to make it work for months with no success. I think NASA left a crucial step out so they could patent the idea, but anyone wanting to use it would have to come to them, even for experimental use.

Of course you could also use a food grade epoxy with a good deal less uncertainty. Degrease the cup and dry thoroughly before use otherwise the epoxy won't penetrate deep enough into the cracks.

Helps if you preheat the cup so the epoxy briefly thins and penetrates better, however this also speeds up the setting and if you're not careful it can go off prematurely.

Good luck

Hi Sceptic,

I like your experimentation and real success concerning the mug repairing process. However, you relate to us, who could to succeed the same way like you did but you tell us that you don't remember the type of Silicate you used. This is an important to be successful again. You don't write down what you do? It's important for the prosterity! For example, I wrote and write down all my daily actions. One thing for you and probably for other too, I never shown to my wifes or girl friends, that could create a havoc! I remember, one day one of my bosses asked: What you did with this yesterday at 4:10 pm? I went to consult my book and gave him the answer. First, I made on him a huge impression with my answer and at that moment he undestood why I expend the same amount of money every two months at Staples.

Please, tell us the temperature reached the mug and how long rested at that weather? Also, how you get cooled down, and I want temperature degradation in *C and the time in minutes if it's not more than 8 working hours.

I understand that you want I use the repaired mug with my penetrating sealer without heating and be sure if I survive, you can use the mug for your coffee. Don't forget, I use the mug for espresso. It's different!

In science and we talking serious chemistry here, "should be" doesn't work. We can eventually use "must be".

Torch is dangerous! Watch your suggestions! Permanency doesn't exist like perfection. 12 and half billion years or light years ago the Univers was little bit different than is today, isn't it? So, another word we cannot use with confidence!

Concerning the NASA patent you are right. It probably came out from the town was invaded by extra-terrostrials and they wanted to tell us to imitate them without telling the whole truth. These extras, they are something! We talk about them, make movies with or as them, and try to become like them for the "big travel" without paying the ticket. Consult The PQ Corp., they are knowledgeable.

Now you are talking my way, Epoxies! The yellowish, amine or amide smelling liquid with extraordinary capacities. You agree with on that? Thanks!! I already suggested but no one wants to understand that epoxies are the solution for "practically" everything. Use low viscosity resin like Resorcinol Diglycidyl Ether CAS# 101-90-6. Use it and you will se how well penetrate cracks. Don't heat epoxies without exellent protection against vapours from amines and the resin itself! I want to talk to you after the trial with specific Silicate and epoxy.

Thanks, I am lucky because I have you to push me to do things and my books to remember what I did already. I became selective! All the best, Gil.

I agree epoxy is probably the safest bet.

Silicate will give a repair most like the original cup, but it would be best to experiment on another item of less (sentimental) value first. Chalk up the work done there to experience.

Silicate ratio doesn't seem to be critical as long as it is properly cured.

Heating. If a dead match leaves a mark when drawn across you have over about 200C (used to use that to see if aluminium was hot enough to bend). If it starts to glow, you have plenty. I'm not sure of the temp. On steel it's about 600C for a straw color, but I don't think that would show with ceramic.

Must get an old cup or plate and experiment.

Personally, I would go for epoxy unless you have some old ceramics on which you can experiment (and the inclination), in which case I would go for the silicate.

Hello Sceptic,

Yes for everything you mention but I think we arrive to the end because no one suggest something good or reasonable. We two, you and me, stay on the podium and explain what is not very interesting for anyone.

I never could suggest to someone known or unknown to use chlorate and glucose or its family by blending together. John, you are funny but I hope no one takes you seriously!

Sceptic, see you at another blog, Gil.

" ... but I hope no one takes you seriously!"

So do I! Do you think anyone could?

Cheers, John.

John, I sincerely wish that everyone takes my words seriously! You suggest to people who do not understand chemistry, follow your dangerous recommendation to use chlorate with sugar. They can very seriously be injured! Stop to be a baby and be a man, and maintain good and safe relationship with people. We want to respect you, so do the same, Gil.

Do you really think there are people visiting this site & randomly trying the suggestions From various posts?

Actually, I was gonna try all of them as soon as I was done designing my C₁₇H₂₁NO₄ ventilaton/distribution system for HVAC application.

You there

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