Barber Chair Hydraulics Restoration - Antique 1920s Emil J. Paidar

Some of these require special tools. I have some of them. a better picture or preferably a photo and I could maybe even send you the right one or the designs to make one.

I will have to take some pictures. Unfortunately I can not take pictures of some of what I have to deal with because it hidden from sight inside the hydraulic columns. I will do what I can though.

~ Mike

I would suspect the plate at the bottom of the outer cylinder is threaded unto the cylinder. Is that a hex socket on the bottom? If so, it may be how you would unscrew the plate from the cylinder. After 90 years, it may be on there pretty solid.

It is a hex and does appear to be threaded into the column. However I can not get the piece to unscrew. It all moves as one unless I can break whatever seal exists.

~ Mike

there are times when hydraulic cylinders on farm machinery will only come apart with a lot of heat applied to the end cap. We usually use an acetylene torch and a rosebud tip. Sometimes it takes a lot of time and patience.

How about using an impact wrench? BTW, that chair in working condition is worth big bucks. I've seen them in the 6 to 8000$ range, so be careful you don't damage it.

This is a link to the patent that I believe describes the construction of the chair. I know it isn't 100% faithful, but I believe the hydraulics are accurate.

http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=sRVLAAAAEBAJ&dq=patent:1347264

~ Mike

Judging from the patent info. there are some springs inside that could result in serious stored energy. PLEASE BE EXTREMELY CAUTIOUS when this thing comes apart it could spring outward and cause serious injury.

I can't seem to pull up the patent drawing, but looking at your sketch it would seem that the "inner cylinder" is the piston and the "outer cylinder" is the, well, cylinder.

Before you drained the oil, did the hydraulics work?

If not, maybe the piston is seized. It seems like it should pull straight out of the cylinder.

If true, there may still be oil in the bottom of the outer cylinder - between the piston and the cylinder. Something to think about before you haul out the rosebud.

Well something I did solved the main problem for me. I was working on removing the pump handle and something moved and I was able to pull the inner column all the way out. This allowed me to disassemble it enough to make it manageable to move up a few flights of stairs piece by piece.

This is the way it started today.

This has been dismantled into several parts. The issues that remain for me are related to the pump handle, the pump rod, and the piston.

The pump handle seems to be held on with two pins. I was successfully able to punch out one pin but do not seem to have any luck punching out the other pin.

The pump rod goes through the base and appears to be capped off on the other side. The "comma" looking piece below is what caps it off. It had a pin holding it in place as well, which I successfully punched out. However I have not discovered how to remove that cap from the pump rod.

Lastly I am left with removing the piston and all its inner workings from the inner column. The screw below does not seem to turn no matter what I do to try and turn it.

Any suggestions or expertise with dismantling these parts?

~ Mike

An update:

I was able to dismantle the whole chair. It took using extreme heat (propane torch), an impact wrench, a dremel, drill, and a whole bunch of blood sweat and tears. Oh an maybe one or two swear words . I am trying to document as much as I can with photos as I am disassembling.

There is one anomaly that I did come across. When I removed the seat it had markings for a Theo A Kochs chair on the bottom of the seat cushion. I also discovered the seat had been reupholstered with rubber/vinyl. This makes me think that a Theo A Kochs seat bottom was retro-fitted into this Paidar chair. If anyone has a Paidar chair of the 20's - early 30s vintage and can has some pictures (or is willing to take some) of the seat cushion I would really appreciate it.

Thanks.

~ Mike

Michael, I have an Emil Padir chair, i think from the 1920s, maybe 1930s. My basement just got flooded, and now I think I need to do some work to keep the chair alive. It was in pretty good shape before the flood. I will send you pics of any part of it I can get access to, including the seat cushion. Sad thing is, I can only figure out how to recline the chair. Since it came into my possession, I have not figured out how to raise/lower the chair. It was my grandfather's, and I can't ask him or my dad as they have passed. I think the seat will need to be reupholstered, but maybe the rest just needs oil/hydraulic fluid. I am no mechanic or engineer. If you or anyone else can help I'd appreciate it. Thanks, Frank

Hi Mike,

I realize your posts are a couple years old, but I have been working on a Paidar chair that has a base that looks like yours. Finally got it apart after much effort. The base with the pump has been restored and works good.

Now trying to restore the seat, back and leg rest. Attached are pics. The leather has been redone many years ago. From your research, can you help with any pics of an original chair that will show how the upholstery should look? Also can you help date it?

Any help that you or anyone else can provide will be appreciated.

I hope you are still out there. I have an old paidar chair with a base like yours. What did you do to get the 'nut' off the bottom? Thanks John

Hello! I'm a barber on the northside of Chicago and was wondering the results of your barberchair repair. I would definately like to talk with you if possible. I have a couple chairs that I'd like to repair but have run into a few snags. Thanks for any help you can give.

Hi Michael

I'm located in Fort Langley BC Canada. A friend(Barber) has a 1922 paidar which a (used to friend) pulled bacl on the chair lever with a huge amount of force and locked up the

inner cylinder brake system. We are struggling with a method to release the brake.

We have the chair in pieces( well big chunks anyways) , base is now upside down on

12x12 wood blocks. Obviously we can't unscrew the bottom cylinder cover.

Looking into the oil filled inner cylinder from the top(now minus oil) the round disc which is attached to the rod must be pressed down in the normal direction to release the brakes. We have tried a 2x4 and a 10lb lead weight on the rod end at the top.

It's like pounding on concrete.

Michael have you or anyone else any suggestions for a fix.

Sure don't want to break any parts.

Maybe a machine shop could press it dow with a hydraulic press machine????

Gord

& Clipper Jack

hi. i have the same problem, were you able to solve this issue?

It has been awhile since we struggled with brake stuck problem.

So my memory has lost a lot of detail, basically it takes a length of 2x3 hardwood or a

metal bar and a large hammer to drive the break downwards.

Of course the upper part of chair comes off so you can see into the base, it has oil resavoir so no tipping or you have a big mess.

If you pound on the break handle /lever it could break as it probably is cast metal.

Gord

well that did the trick. thanks alot. i used the end of my weight curling bar to bang on the top of the connector ride. it loosened with the first knock. after that i turned the base upside down and a bunch of dried up oil chunks fell loose.

I just bought a Paidar Barber's chair and I seem to have the same issue. The chair will recline and lock properly by pulling the handle straight out from the chair. I can not get the handle to move forward to pump the chair up and the chair also won't swivel which makes me think the brake is stuck. I removed the seat and cover to the oil reservoir and tried hammering straight down on the cam/rod up top that attach to the operating handle and also lower down where the rod goes down to no avail. I just wonder if you have more specific directions to where I have to hit to disengage the brake since I feel I'm not hitting in the right spot.

I have run into a few problems, any help and information would be greatly appreciated. Anyone know around what year??


1.) I can't find a footrest that will fit the model I have...Ive never even seen the same model chair I have online period. Rather than the footrest being attached to the other embossed foot rest, it is UNDER IT. Pictures will show where I am talking about.


2.) The chrome metal base is missing on my chair. So I need a new one BUT the base is not bolted onto the porcelain, it was welded to the bottom on it. So I have no idea how I am going to get a new one.

3.) Are there any tricks to getting the handle off? I have tried everything and I'm going towards drilling the screw out but if I do that will I be able to still get it out? Is the rod laced with the handle?

4.) How do you paint the porcelain?

Try researching for a bobbing chair. Not barber chair... You have a bobbing chair. Never sold well and yours is one of the better ones...the koken that every dink that stumbles onto says it predates hydraulics and it has 4 legs and no spin feature was/is the other end...those are trash

IF you push the handle all the down and hold it ..you can then pull the piston out of the base

hello mike, im having the same issue with the brake being stuck and the chair handle lever is in the upright position, the chair wont move and the handle wont budge. i've tried putting all my weight on it, even kicking it. i even bange on the inner base mechanisms with a hammer. nothing

I just purchased two identical mid-1950's Emil J Paider Barber Chairs for my barber shop. I have a slightly later model barber chairs that are perfectly working and being used at my shop. We are expanding and want to add the chairs just purchased but they need work, I've done some research and there are four Barber Chair refurbishes near me in the central New Jersey area. Yet the cost of restoring theses chairs are cost prohibitive one restorer is very expensive specializing in custom work, the others have slightly better pricing but one reupholsters sends out the metal parts for refinishing (chroming), the other does the metal refinishing and sends out for reupholsters, finally the last guy has done some barber chairs but specializes is antique restoration.

The average cost of restoration is around $1700 for chrome refinishing and repair, and $300 for reupholstering for a total of $2000 per chair, not including what I paid for the chair. I'm a small barber Shop with $12 haircuts for me to get a return on these chairs will take 10 years. Can anyone suggest a cheaper Barber Chair refinisher/upholster/repairer that may have better pricing, because after I restore the older chairs I want to send out my current chairs for restoration. Any takers or referrals?

My average restoration charge is under $500 without chrome plating. Plating is crazy high now. I do full breakdowns on the chair and include new foam and vinyl. Parts extra. I replace any wrong screws even...I am very picky and precise and have done work for several museums and also a master wood worker. I can carve any thing.

Located near Houston TX

Ashworthbarberchairs9362328697

I have a model 504 Paidar chair in great shape but it will not pump up. When I push the handle forward the seat rises but immediately falls. Seems like it’s not able to maintain pressure either due to worn seals or a release valve stick open. Any ideas on how to fix? It has plenty of oil. A quart and a half of 5W-30 oil was recently added.

It is my hope you can provide assistance or guidance to a problem I have with an old Emil J. Paidar barber chair. It should be about 100 years old. We just had some workmen attempt to move the chair by lifting it from the seat. Surprisingly, the base lifted with the chair and after a few seconds descended back to the floor. Now when I use the pump handle to raise the seat it no longer works. It makes a sound that Ive heard before when the oil is low but I see no indication of oil having spilled. Can you share your thoughts or suggest someone who might be able to fix the chair here in Maryland. Many thanks!

Eric Bergerson

Find a Spectra chrome guy...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itHzjYN_L3M

I just purchased a 1961 Emil J. Padair barber chair to use in my shop. Seems to have a leak, and will not stay pumped up. What type of hydraulic oil should be used?

Do not use hydrAulic fluid. I have been restoring chairs since 1989 and you should only use motor oil...engine oil.5w-30 is my go to and if you aren't fixing the slow shrink on your chair usr a thicker oil and careful usiny the brake too hard...it can get stuck and is a head ache if you don't know what you are doing

I have a broken linkage inside the inner column. Does anyone know how I can get the piston linkage out of the column? I was able to get the lever shaft off but can not get the linkage inside out.

I have an old Paidar chair that will recline, but won't rotate or elevate. Does anyone have any manuals/diagrams of the internal works? I am in the western suburbs of Chicago. Thanks in advance,

Dan

I don’t have any plans but it sounds like the brake is set and the valves may be missing or shot. You’ll need to pull the chair base off of the chair and look to see what is going on inside. Did you try to release the brake?

I found that I need to find and replace a broken piece inside the inner shaft. It runs between a bracket attached to the horizontal pump shaft and goes down and attaches to somewhere down lower. It is a cast piece and may need to be reproduced. Looking at a picture from a previous post, it looks like it is part of the pump mechanism. The top connector in the picture below is missing. Looks like it broke some time in the past. I have had this chair for over 25 years and just used it as someplace to sit in my shop. I thought about taking a pair of vise grips and grabbing the end and try moving it up or down as the horizontal shaft is not attached to it. I also probably need to get the inner shaft out. It is locked up and doesn't move. Any ideas on how to loosen it up would be greatly appreciated.