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DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

Posted July 01, 2009 11:15 AM by frankd20

I discussed the problem with wiring trailer hitch lights in my last post. The main issue being my car has separate bulbs for the brake and the blinker, where the trailer uses the same bulb.

The solution requires first thinking about the logic of how the lights work. When the brake is on both lights are on, but when you turn the blinker on you need to detect that the light is now in blinker mode so it will turn off a light that is already on. In addition to this you then need to realize when the blinker is off so that it returns it to brake mode. While this could be done with logic circuits or a micontroller that is way too complicated, and I didn't even explore it.

The first thing you need to realize is that the easiest way to make the lights blink when the brake is on is that you need to reverse the blinker function when the brake is on. That is if the brake is on and the blinker is on, the blinker light on the trailer will be opposite what the car is. The reason for this is simple, it's easy to detect when the blinker light is on and shut off a light so it blinks, then it is to actually change functions.

Once you realize the logic of the lights you will see what you are looking for is the function of an XOR logic gate. That is if the brake is on the trailer light is on, if the blinker is on the light is on, if the blinker and brake light are on the light is off, and if both are off the light is off. Which brings me to the first solution which uses an xor logic chip and output transistors which someone has a patent on, although it can get a lot simpler than that.

The goal now is to make an XOR logic gate with transistor logic and a decent power transistor in the final stage. This leads us to our second design which I am sure we can find many which all basically do the same thing.

The above solutions work and aren't all that costly but there is a reduction in part count and cost that can be made if you realize a little trick about how the car is wired

If by some miracle the car wiring put voltage when it was on and connected to ground when off, then the circuit would include no parts. We could simply connect the trailer bulb between the two positive sides of the brake and blinker light and it would work. The problem is most cars I know of don't pull the high side to ground when off, but they do pull to ground sort of. The high side isn't really pulled to ground when off but it is connected to ground through a resistance, and that resistance is the bulb in the car. If you were to connect a light between the high sides of the brake and blinker, you would get the desired function from the trailer light, but it would also light the car blinker light when you put the brakes on and visa versa, which is no good at all. While this isn't good, it does provide us with something useful, and that is it pulls to ground, just that we can't put much current through that or we will light a bulb we don't want lit.

So now we come to the final solutions, the first of which uses a relay and some resistors in between both bulbs. These solutions may not work with a car that has LED bulbs, but a little resistance in the circuit could fix that. To me using a relay isn't desirable, they aren't that cheap, and I don't like having moving parts when I don't need them, but it works and is used.

The last solutions I have both use PNP transistors or in practice a PNP Darlington transistor. In a PNP transistor if the base is lower than the emitter voltage then voltage will flow from the emitter to the collector. If the base is equal to or above the emitter voltage, then nothing will flow between the emitter and collector.

This is useful because we can use the ground through the bulb at the base and the positive voltage output at the emitter to form a voltage difference. When the bulb is on however it is at the same voltage and the output is off. Based on this I have a couple circuit designs, which I think are fairly simple.

I guess you have to deicide what you think the best design is, for me I prefer either of the PNP transistor solution, this is based on the price of components and the simplicity of the design.

Some of the images (the ones with numbers) come from patents so I am refrenceing them here if you want more info 5701116, 3970860, 5030938, 4751431, 6177865 B1 The other images are from coworkers and myself.

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#1

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch wiring solutions (part 2)

07/01/2009 11:26 AM

...or one could add supplementary turn lamps to the trailer, two additional wires, and "robert is your mother's brother".

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#2
In reply to #1

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch wiring solutions (part 2)

07/01/2009 11:38 AM

While one could run extra wires and lights, it would only work if you were only towing your own trailer and never planned to tow anyone else's.

The 4 wire system and the connector is a standard in the USA. Almost all boat and utility trailers here use it.

So if you want your vehicle to be able to link up to any other trailer other than your own modified one, your going to need one of these circuits.

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#3
In reply to #2

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch wiring solutions (part 2)

07/01/2009 12:12 PM

fyi, it's 'brake'. just sayin.

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#4
In reply to #3

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch wiring solutions (part 2)

07/01/2009 12:22 PM

Thanks for catching that, I fixed them. Also thanks for the schematic/mental contribution.

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#5

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

07/01/2009 11:00 PM

even easier, change the trailer lights to a 2 bulb setup.....

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#6

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

07/02/2009 12:29 AM

In the U.S. the turn signals are controlled by a blinker unit that is basically a bi-metallic spring and a contact that is cut into the brake circuit with the turn signal selector switch. The current draw of the brake light heats the bi-metallic spring causing it to deflect and break the circuit. It then cools off and closes the circuit - repeat cycle until the turn signal switch is turned off. The signal blinker is usually a small aluminum or plastic cylinder with two external blades for insertion into the fuse block. Cost at an auto parts store is usually less than $10 US. Should be easier and less expensive than building an electronic circuit to control the blinking.

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#11
In reply to #6

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

07/02/2009 9:47 AM

I am not sure how the bi-metallic relay is going to help you with this issue. The problem is not how to get a signal that blinks, its how to combine the function of lights. If you have a circuit design in mind please post it.

Your say the relay is $10, the cost to build one of the last two circuits is less than $2 and wouldn't be any more difficult to wire.

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#7

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

07/02/2009 3:19 AM

You need snubbing (Flyback?) diodes across each transistor, or you will be forever replacing transistors...

They should be reversed to the direction of normal current flow, some FETs have them already installed.......

There is a likelihood of spikes in most cars and this needs to be fully catered for.

For this reason alone, I would personally never use logic chips or transistors in a car environment unless there was no other way. Then I would make sure that the electronics are fully shielded from any "nasty" signals or spikes......

This is basically why my method did not use any of these components....

Car relays are actually very cheap and very robust and if price is an issue, I would strip out a relay box from a scrapped car, with relay sockets, so that if one relay proved defective, i could unplug it and replace it with another in a few seconds on the road at day, night fog or rain........replacing transistors or chips is quite another deal.....

But each to his own poison!!!

Have a great day and thanks for taking the time and troble to post such an interesting subject.

Sadly, I appear to have been the only one (other than your good self of course) who was at all interested in designing something, very poor showing.......

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#12
In reply to #7

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

07/02/2009 3:42 PM

I appreciate your work, as this was more a mental challenge, you were the only one to post any design, and yours was not a bad one at all.

I am not so sure that the back EMF from the car wires would be so much that it would cause a transistor to blow. Your right that it is internal in many Darlington and FET devices so it wouldn't be an issue anyhow.

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#13
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Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

07/03/2009 3:15 AM

Its not an issue with certain FETs and Darlingtons provided the fet is used correctly to allow the reversed diode to work correctly, otherwise an external diode will be needed...

Put another way, the internal diode needs to have correct external circuitry designed for it to be able to work as required.

It is possible to use the FET correctly and to design the circuit so that the internal diode cannot "shield" the FET from spikes - Be warned!......

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#14
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Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

07/19/2009 6:53 PM

Hey now, I was here to get edjumacated and I was.

I appreciated both your efforts, especially comments about keeping the trailer isolated from my truck's wiring.

I'm headed to the garage as soon as I unpack!

I'd long ago decided between trips that I needed a remote *tap* for these purposes both isolating the truck as well as providing multiple outputs and fusing.

Now I know how to go about it.

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#8

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

07/02/2009 6:38 AM

You could do it the right way...

Most vehicle manufacturers do not recommend direct wiring your trailer lights directly to the vehicle. They recommend an interface module available at all parts stores and Wal-Mart. Just do it right and purchase the interface designed for your vehicle / trailer arrangement.

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#9
In reply to #8

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

07/02/2009 8:21 AM

You have a good point as quite often trailers have faulty wiring, so there should be a way (extra fuses would do it with audible blown fuse warning) to save the car's wiring from being damaged as even changing fuses at night can be fraught!!!!

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#10
In reply to #9

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

07/02/2009 9:41 AM

While I agree in doing it the right way, we have become so afraid to do things the wrong way, we don't even try anymore.

I will bet you money, that if you buy the circuit adapter in walmart today, and were to take it apart, you will not find fuses.

What you will find are some PNP Darlington transistors and a few other components, in an arrangement strikingly similar to one of the ones I presented above.

Anyone want to prove me wrong?

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#15
In reply to #10

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/15/2009 11:32 PM

I try not to shop at wallmart... too many slaves already.

I think and therefore I am.

juliusz_22(at)hotmail.com

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#16
In reply to #15

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/16/2009 12:51 AM

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=8674391&l=09ce8a468d&id=590975323

that is a facebook link to my schematic as I can't paste a drawing here.

juliusz_22(at)hotmail.com

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#17
In reply to #16

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/16/2009 3:00 PM

Hi Juliusz,

I have posted your drawing for you, however it will not work! The brake signal will simply disconnect both brake lights. The number plate light will be in series with both stop lamps in parallel. Try again!

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#18
In reply to #17

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/16/2009 10:27 PM

ok I fixed it... and simplyfied.

even better!

oh and no camera icon to paste the jpg.

re-did the facebook pic.

cheers

Juliusz

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=308616&id=590975323&saved

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#20
In reply to #18

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/05/2010 1:54 AM

sorry for the post on an old thread, but the image from facebook will still not work, the turn will provide power when cutting it from the brake. You need relay on the turn with the turn wired nc. wire the brake to switch the relay and run the no contact to a relay on the brake line (after the turn relay). The brake relay should be wired nc. A diode between the brake and turn to separate circuits, and you have a circuit separating and reverse function controller. Add a relay at the end and you can run the source direct from battery, isolating the trailer wires, which is what the 60 dollar brake power converters do. And no, you will not find a fuse if you open them up, because they are in molded plastic, good luck opening it. When you do, however, you will find diodes and transistors. Trust me, I am here because I blew one out. They don't need fuses because they are battery direct, shorting a diode causes a loss of lights, but adds resistance so no fire. These transistor methods are the way to go, I am using mosfets so I will need to change the design with the resistors but it's what I was looking for.

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#19

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

03/17/2010 9:55 PM

This explains why there are so many threads on the IH8Mud forums asking how JDM/Oz/NZ imported vehicles have their tow hitches wired.

In Oz the minimum standard is 6 pin connections although currently its a toss up between 7 pin round (Large & Small diameter Utilux)and 7 pin Flat Brylite. The pinouts and the wiring colours (colors) are the same though, by federal Oz Government legislation.

Irrespective of what trailer it is the pinouts are 1 (Yellow) Left indicator, 2 (Black) Reverse Lights, 3 (White) Earth, 4 (Green) Right indicator, 5 (Blue) Electric Brakes, 6 (Red) Stop Light, 7 (Brown) Tail & clearance lights.

I worked at a bus hire company that ran a combination of vehicles with both 12Volt and 24 Volt systems and they shared the luggage trailers, always a headache with the bus drivers having to swap bulbs on the trailers, till I convinced Management to put 24/12V trailer converters on the 24 volt busses. No drama after that. All plug and go.

All my trailers (even my boat trailer) have the reversing lights hooked up makes a big difference manoeuvring in the dark..

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#21

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

08/31/2011 11:10 AM

this is the answer that works, period! diodes #2 and 3 cause the turn pulsing signal to a constant on until the signal is shut off. this allows the brake light not to turn on while the signal light is blinking on that side, but allows the other brake light to work properly. the capacitor holds the relay closed for the duration of the blink. the capacitor value is around 800 mfd. it needs to hold your relay closed for the entire blink (light on and light off) this valve will vary on the relay coil you select. I forgot to draw a diode in the wire feeding the #2 and 3 relay to stop the capacitor from backfeeding and draining the capacitor out. my 2006 jeep cherokee needs a isolated circuit from the tail lights of the jeep. the parking lights (not shown) uses a relay also. hope this helps someone out.

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#22
In reply to #21

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/01/2011 6:49 AM

Hi welder,

yes your system will work but it is unneccesarily complex. you only need 3 relays, one of which needs to be 2 pole (or four single pole relays)

this scheme uses the same principle as a stairway light, if it's on, it turns off and if it is off it turns on. The common point of the diodes could be supplied by a permanent 12V, for instance fron the boot (trunk) light supply instead of using diodes.

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#23
In reply to #22

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/02/2011 7:50 PM

sorry , i do not see how this circuit could work when all the signals are combined after the diodes. it is probably the lack of my understanding of your diagram. thanks Mike

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#24
In reply to #23

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/05/2011 4:21 AM

Hi Mike,

just delete the diodes, they were there to give 12V to the common point. A permanent 12V from the battery is easier to understand (I've drawn that in red as the alternative).

Now with 12V on the red wire you can see that no light is lit. If the brakes are applied then the relay coil RB is energised and the two contacts move to the n.o. position. the brake lights now operate over the two n.c. contacts of relays RL and RR. If now a turn signal is operated then the corresponding relay flashes in sync, thus flashing the light on that side.

If the turn signal is on without the brakes then the light on that side flashes over the n.c. contacts of the relay RB.

regards,

Chas

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#25
In reply to #24

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/06/2011 10:16 AM

hi, i still see the same problem. when the brake is held on ,and the signal light is blinking on and off. when the blink is off ,the light will get power from the brake turning it on when the light should be off for the blink. in other words, the light will be on when braking,off for a split second,on for a second, off for a split ect... it may not even look like it blinks at all. there is nothing to let the brake stop lighting when the signal light is working. the signal light should blink on one second and off one second ect... i hope this makes sense

best regards,

mike

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#26
In reply to #25

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/06/2011 12:46 PM

OK Mike,

look at this, perhaps it's a little clearer. Just taking the L turn signal.

If the brakes are NOT applied then link "a" has 12 V on it and as the RL flashes in time with the car lamp so the trailer lamp will flash in sync.

If the brakes are applied then link "b" will have 12V. Again if the trailer lamp will flash at the same rate as the car tail light but actually in anti-phase (car on, trailer off). I didn't notice that before....maybe doesn't comply with the rules there in the US.

If the brakes are applied without any turn signal then the 12V passes through link "b" and RL contact n.c.

regards

Chas

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#27
In reply to #26

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/06/2011 6:01 PM

yes, now i get it! much better diagram. i did not get the reverse phase part. good job Chas!!!

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#28
In reply to #27

Re: DIY Trailer Hitch Wiring Solutions (Part 2)

09/06/2011 6:24 PM

Hi Mike,

when the brakes are on and the car turn indicator light comes on then the trailer light will be of when the car light is on and visa versa.

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