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Shower tile

12/26/2007 10:09 AM

My lovely and gracious wife, Mrs. S, has determined that my holiday time off would be best used in redoing the ceramic tile in both baths in our house. I have not done any ceramic tile work in a long time. As I prepare to jump into it:

Any important tips?

Any preferred materials? (adhesives etc?)

What tools are absolutly essential to make it go smoothly and easily?

How best to deal with walls that are not exactly square?

Thanks!!

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#1

Re: Shower tile

12/26/2007 10:37 AM

Having just done our half-bath, my top piece of advice would be to pay special attention to the angle of the trowel when you are putting down the thin-set. Make sure you keep it at the same angle - relative to the wall or floor - since this sets the depth of the thin-set, and so, the level of the tile. I think 45 degrees is good. Also, get a trowel that has teeth specific to the size of the tile you want to put down. They're labeled at Home Depot. Use those little plastic spacers. And if you're doing smallish tile, be sure you buy the kind that comes bonded to a mesh - so you can lay a whole pre-spaced section at once. Make sure the wall / floor is perfectly dry, and leak free, before you start. It also wouldn't hurt to spend a few days in the gym before hand - because tiling is hard hard work, especially on your arms. Wear knee pads.

As for the unsquareness - I would pick one of the long sides and make that my good side, then just move off from there using the spacers as guides. Don't try to compensate for the lack of squareness in your tile work - you will be doomed. Doomed, I say!

And lay out a line of tile in both directions to see how much you will need. If you find that you need, say 41 1/4 tiles, don't lay that as 41 full tiles and one 1/4 tile strip - lay 40 full tiles and 2 5/8 tile strips, so you won't have an odd skinny strip.

Tile saws are cheap - mine was $79 - and they are a breeze to use. Don't try to tile without one. You can also rent one. If you need to cut a circular type curve in a tile, just cut straight lines from the edge of the tile to the curve, spaced about 3.8 inch apart - so that it looks like a comb, then break off the teeth of the comb with some pliers and smooth out the curve using the tile saw dragging the saw teeth sideways across the tile. I found this hint by googling "how to tile a bathroom".

Good luck. Remember - your marriage is riding on this!

I posted some details and pics of my own bathroom renovation in a blog, at:

http://community.livejournal.com/saucydwellings/1319394.html

if you're interested.

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#3
In reply to #1

Re: Shower tile

12/26/2007 11:10 AM

Bhankiii,

Nice bit of work, I live in Friendswood, not far from you, how bout coming over and taking care of this for me... (just kidding Mrs S is expecting me to do it.) BTW where did you buy your tile? I am looking at the tile store on Almeda and the Gulf Freeway.

I really expected that the first bit of advice I would get would be to hire a pro...

I am just doing the showers, and I am planning biggish tile.

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#4
In reply to #3

Re: Shower tile

12/26/2007 11:19 AM

We bought it at The Tile Store - I think that's the name. On 45 just south of 59, on the downtown side of the freeway. Just a little hole in the wall. They had to order the tile and it took a month to get the little tiles in. I'd live to come and help, but there are 751,283 people in line ahead of you.

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#6
In reply to #4

Re: Shower tile

12/26/2007 11:49 AM

And you're welcome to borrow my saw if you'd like.

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#5
In reply to #3

Re: Shower tile

12/26/2007 11:35 AM

"I really expected that the first bit of advice I would get would be to hire a pro..."

Nah! Tile work is pretty easy and can be fun. My best advice is to take what ever is your estimate in cost and time and multipy it by 4.

Borrow a tile wet saw if you can or buy one if you can afford it. They are orders of magnitude better than any other tool.

Just follow directions on the products you buy and check the local libray for books on techniques and ideas.

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#44
In reply to #1

Re: Shower tile

01/10/2008 11:04 PM

The only thing I would add is, a good quality 4" angle grinder with a good quality "turbo grooved" diamond saw blade is great for cutting curves that the table saw won't. I've picked up some good tips for the next time from other posters too.

I've done some large and some awkward areas but bathroom and kitchen still to come, I'll refer back to this thread.

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#2

Re: Shower tile

12/26/2007 10:41 AM

You have my sympathy...

Good tip,

Nail a horizontal batten to the wall and work upwards from that.
Place the first tile somewhere near the middle to check the spacing, adjust it such that when you get to the each end you will be cutting 1/2 to 1/3 tiles. Common mistake is to start at one end and find you have to cut a thin sliver at the other end. Same applies to the spacing top and bottom.

Use a good quality waterproof (& mold resitant) tile adhesive, buy a decent sized spreader, don't rely on the little plastic one in the adhesive tub.

Use plastic tile spacers, and wipe of the surplus before it goes too hard.

Best tip is let Mrs S do it...Mrs Cat does a fine job and just leaves me to do the cut tiles around the edges .

Think of the 'brownie points' you'll earn.

Have fun (sound of laughing off left)

Del

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#7

Re: Shower tile

12/26/2007 12:38 PM

The tips I have picked up over the last 15 years or so of remodelling bathrooms in my house (under my wife's supervision, of course):

  • Waterproof underlayment and good backer-board are a must (the Hardie product is good, but $$$). Makes the job last until the tile has gone out of style.
  • Center your pattern on the area and work out from there. May result in more cuts at the edges, but really makes it look like a pro job.
  • Be sure to match your adhesive to the tile! Especially porous, light colors will wick dark adhesives to the surface, resulting in a blotchy appearance after a short time. Use a light-colored adhesive with light tile colors.
  • Match your trowel notch size to the adhesive! Manufacturer's recommendations will be on the package.
  • Out-of-square areas can be given the illusion of squareness by slightly adjusting your grout lines as you move from course to course. Much easier to accomplish if you center your pattern on the area, but still takes some practice.
  • When you place a tile, lay it right up next to the previously-placed tile and then push it away to set your grout line. Placing a tile and then sliding it toward previous tiles will cause adhesive to bunch up in the grout line.
  • Aside from your trowel, a straight edge and a rubber mallet are your best friends. Concentrate on making your tiles true, rather than necessarily flat. Keeping the edges of each tile true to the adjacent tile will cover many other sins and compensate for imperfections in the backer.
  • Grouting will make you feel like you have Popeye arms before the end of the day! (By far the least fun part of the job!)
  • The supervisor is always right! Always ask how she wants it to look and follow faithfully. That way she'll always get what she asked for.

Good luck and post some pictures when you're done!

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#8

Re: Shower tile

12/26/2007 6:46 PM

Any important tips? Yes 10.

Honestly based on my personal experience - avoid doing it yourself.

1 . You will break your back. After 2 hours of working you cannot straighten up.

2 . They will never be on a straight line and Mrs.S will not like it.

3 . If 1 & 2 fails, try getting tiles from Home Depot with sticker to peel off & stick.

4 . You will still break your back . This is common factor on all type of tiles.

5 . Avoid doing it yourself.

6 . If 5 fails don't sleep on soft bed because you need to sleep on a hard board for it takes over 6 months for the back to heal and the tinging pain to go.

7 . Please read this out to Mrs.S. This is my personal experience.

8 . Jump from the highest diving board to convince Mrs.S that you love her.

9 . If you do 8. then don't splat on the water on your back.

10 . If you do then go to 5.

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#12
In reply to #8

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 4:12 AM

Flowers are safer than #8

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#9

Re: Shower tile

12/26/2007 11:14 PM

I agree with all previous comments regarding a wet saw - if you don't own one - borrow or rent one; all the difference in the world.

Use spacers; I liked the rubber ones vs. the plastic ones (I tiled a wall and found the plastic ones were more difficult to keep in place, the rubber ones had some "adhesion" to them).

Whatever time estimate you have in your head - double it. Give yourself plenty of time - gotta do it right the first time.

Grout - ugh..never fun. I used an epoxy grout from Lowe's on my project (Spectralock) - I chose it so I didn't have to worry about sealing the tile; it was a great grout with lots of color-options but tough to work with. If you are doing a small area (I wasn't) - I recommend it though. If you go this route - buy 2x of grout than you think you might need - I ran out 3/4 the way through and epoxy grout has time sensitivity to it - not fun when you have to speed to the store for more... If you don't use what you buy- you can always bring it back.

Sponges...can never have too many. Especially on finishing work - I had a few extra buckets of just clean water and sponges; ended up using them all.

Trowel, I ended up using a small one; despite some areas of large tile - I just found it easier to work with smaller amounts of mastic and grout.

Outlets...if you have any; plan in advance how you are going to tile around them... I learned the hard way...

Enjoy! I had never tiled anything before and did my whole kitchen; came out awesome with plenty of kudos from neighbors and spouse (except for the outlet thing..which I fixed later...). I've since sold that house and was told by realtor that the kitchen was the primary selling point...(sold in 24 hours...man, those were the days...)

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#10

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 12:41 AM

Recently my mother asked me to do hers. She picked out some lovely tile, about 1"sq on a mesh backer. She wanted to do some pretty simple decorative back splash stuff. So I went to the hardware store and got grout and the above listed goods, including saw.

I snapped a quick photo of the bathroom to be remodeled and then went to 51st street. There I asked a couple of nice looking and very polite Hispanic men if they new how to lay interior tile. After a little discussion about the photo in hand, we agreed on an estimate.

$275 worth of labor 5hrs later Mom had the bathroom she wanted.

No stiff boards or aching knees required.

cr3

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#11

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 3:41 AM

Having been involved in thousands of square metres of tile laying, I commend you, Steve S, for self-laying your own.

Give us a few photos when the Works are complete...

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#19
In reply to #11

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 10:14 AM

Sparkstation - I salute you. I did 2 bathrooms & 1 kitchen . Been 2 years the back still hurts.

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#13

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 5:55 AM

When you say shower; is this a walk-in or a tub?

If it's a walk-in; be very careful removing old tile, as not to mess up your pan. If you have green-board drywall on the walls, you should replace it w/cement backer-board. Cut the old drywall out about 4" shy of finished tile edges, assuming you're using 2" edging tiles. Now my little trick I use: When I replace the DW w/backerbd, I lay the floor tile first, grout and all. I then install the backerbd on the walls leaving about a 1/4 inch gap at the bottom; in-which I caulk in. When I do the wall tile, I fasten a strip (level) across the bottom about 1/4" shy of a full tile above the lowest point on the perimeter of the floor or tub. I do the back wall first center to out-wards not worrying about them corner cuts because they will be hidden by the tiles coming from the other direction anyway. Start from outside edge of tub, allowing for edge tile and work tile back into corner and scribe cut last cuts. Remove strips and cut in bottom tiles and set border and let it set at least 12 hours(24 is better). When grouting, try to get as much as you can get into them joints as possible and as much spread as possible without it getting out of control. When floating the grout, I go at a 45 degree angle and get as much as I can off as to a film will appear. Do a light sponge over to remove film. Sponge another time and just when it's about dry, I use cheesecloth to achieve a sheen on the grout and it removes anything you missed with the sponge. I sure hope you have two bathrooms; cause re-doing a shower raises allot of havoc.

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#14

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 6:40 AM

Laying tiles in bathroom is not a easy job. You need proper experince and skill to do the proper job.I will suggest please dont try to save few hundred $ but assign job to professional man. Otherwise you may break your back, cut tiles wrong, may not provide proper slope for drainage and regret latter on for money you saved.

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#15

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 7:57 AM

All have given great answers and condolences. My only addition would be to seal the grout well. This keeps mildew or stains from entering the grout. Makes cleanup afterwards much easier. My first attempt, about 35 years ago, I missed a couple small lines and over time the water and cleansers weakened the gout and it started to crumble and fall out as powder. The new grout didn't match as well so I had to remove it and do it all over. Still looks good after many years and no tile discoloration from moisture.

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#16

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 8:47 AM

Been doing tile work for some time. best suggestion that seems no one has given You.

get a roto zip tool for cuting around openings (pipes, faucet ect.) with this tool You can cut a hole in the middle of a tile. Only good for wall tile. floor tiles are to hard.

oilcan13

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#17

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 9:15 AM

Well wasn't that nice of your wife to find you something to do on your time off.

As the saying goes idle hands are the devils workshop. Or something like that.

Ok now on to your question. Are we talking floors or walls?

If walls, I've found its easier to tear down to the studs and start from scratch. The make a new sheet rock that is more mold resistant than even the old green board or the concrete stuff. Other than that not much has changed in materials or techniques.

Floors are another matter. You have more choices in materials these days. They even make a Pergo type floor that is designed for wetter areas like baths. And with this you don't have to do all the grout work. I would also suggest looking into the under floor heating systems that can be used. Nothing like stepping onto a cold tile floor to wake you up in the morning. The best advice I can give you is to visit a store that specializes in flooring to find out all your options. Then you both can decide what materials and options you want.

And by the time you get all the research done you'll be done with your vacation and won't have to do the job.

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#18

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 9:55 AM

First let me say thankyou to all! I have recieved some pretty darn excellent advice (with the exception maybe of diving off a tall diving board to show my love to Mrs S.)

Today is the day to start demolition on the first bath, so I may be out of pocket for a while..

The first project is the tile around a bath tub/shower combo in the kids bathroom so it should be fairly simple. Right now there is no tile, but rather a sort of ugly plastic liner (not attached to the tub). The house is thirty years old, and this is original equipment. If it goes well I will carry on with the next, if not I will find professionals.

Thanks again!!

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#20
In reply to #18

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 10:34 AM

Today is the day to start demolition on the first bath.

Arrrgggghh no ..shhhhhh. Don't mention the demolition of the 'B' you'll set Kris off again.

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#21

Re: Shower tile

12/27/2007 6:10 PM

They make a wall sealer to put on before you adhere the tiles. It a rubberized seal coating on the wall. If you use mortar to set the tiles to the wall and floor look to acrylic additives reduces drying time and gives better adhesion . Specially on large tiles where the edge is far from the center takes a while to dry. There is all so epoxy base grout that will not mildew.

Over the holidays visited a good friend that is putting in another bath in his home. He has been tiling a large walk in shower stall. He all ready has a bad back. So he sure was paying for that DIY pride.

So have fun.

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#22

Re: Shower tile

12/28/2007 7:21 PM

Well, it has taken about three times my original time estimate, but Mrs. S has engaged in scope creep as she often does. Now I am doing the front porch as well. My daughter is putting together a blog for me, so when she has it going I'll post a link. My back definately hurts.... Well back to tileing....

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#23
In reply to #22

Re: Shower tile

12/28/2007 7:54 PM

Hello Steve S,

"My back definately hurts.."

Your wife is worried about you, and she has advised that you may be turning into

The best way to get over that, is to stop moaning about the soreness of your back.

Just get back down on your knees, and get on with the job,and stop thinking of yourself.

When the Works are completed, you will be able to sit and enjoy watching your fine achievement, as you sit

.........

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#24

Re: Shower tile

12/29/2007 2:14 AM

I am always weary when it comes to stuff like this (not tht I have done any of this myself) . I have worked in enough different locations that have had their tile floors pulled up and ended up calling an abatement crew in because of the asbestos fillers in the old tile/grout-glue. Usually; though, it was in a commercial environment and the tile in question was the generic sheet tile. Be careful and wear something to cover your mouth. Also, be up on your tetnus(?) shot as you can never be TOO sure can you?

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#25
In reply to #24

Re: Shower tile

12/29/2007 6:56 PM

Nice blog...the blood could have been more theatrical .

Looks like a lot of work...

Del

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#26
In reply to #24

Re: Shower tile

12/29/2007 11:42 PM

Nice work, Steve,

There must be some photos I missed, though.

If your new work is Slate then remember to use 2 coats of non-yellowing 2 pot resin seal, or solvent based Slate-Seal, before the slates are exposed to soap or you walk on the slates.

Remember if you use either of the above, to use an organic molecule filter cartridge breather, chemical grade gloves too, (ordinary rubber ones dissolve in the fumes), and ventilate well.

If you use the Solvent type Slate Seal, keep all ignition sources well away, until the Slate Seal Solvent has fully dispersed, and the seal coating has fully set.

Ignition sources include: Static charge build-up from nylon stockings worn with synthetic soled shoes, (most are synthetic soled these days), smoking, motor-mowers, cars, electric switching or heaters etc.

We don't want to read about a house and contents 40,000 feet in the air, along with you and your loved ones, in many pieces.

Kind Regards....

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#27
In reply to #26

Re: Shower tile

12/30/2007 9:51 AM

In that case it is a good job you are on the other side of the planet. With a name like sparky.....

I was going to work on sealing the slate today your advice is timely..

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#28
In reply to #27

Re: Shower tile

12/30/2007 12:33 PM

Hmmm, the research I have done, the consensus is to grout the slate, and then wait 30 days to seal it, I guess I will grout today...

I had thought I needed to seal it first to keep the slate from soaking the moisture out of the grout.

Then about half of the internet sources say don't seal it at all...

Any other opinions?

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#29
In reply to #28

Re: Shower tile

12/30/2007 11:35 PM

Hello again Steve S,

Slate is a sedimentary rock, and is quite strong while en masse = still in the hill from where it is later quarried.

After the rock is removed from the hill, it expands slightly, and once in position on a surface, still expands and contracts with climatic temperature changes.

So, in essence a single slate of the variety from India, which looks like the source of the source of the Slate you used, will gradually spall off or shed surface layers, eventually becoming thinner and thinner.

Thus you need a penetrating adhesive one side, with a penetrating Sealer from the surface you see and/or walk on, then you have a strong 'sandwich" to walk on, and admire for years.

Use special soft rubber kneepads, or things will be "difficult" in later life.

For Slate Fixing:

A penetrating adhesive is required, one which had modifiers added to give slight flexibility after it sets.

This a may be a water miscible latex, either added in the correct proportions to a "Normal" tile adhesive while mixing with the water, or an adhesive specially designed for Slate fixing, which has that "flexing agent" already added into the dry powder.

Slates of the size you used, require a square notched trowel with 12mm x 12mm notches, and carefully levelled off with a metal straight-edge - normally a 50mm x 25mm aluminium bar laid 25mm face to slate surface, with a spirit level on top of the straight-edge, then tamped carefully down across several Slates with a rubber hammer of the type sold to tyre fitters.

First Slate-Seal Coating:

Slates are very porous, (see above), and to save excess absorption and subsequent onerous cleaning, it is regarded as faster and better to give the Slates the first Slate-Seal Coat before Grouting.

We used to allow 2 days after fixing, then do the first coat Seal, then grout the day after that.

Slate Grout:

Your gaps should be approximately 8mm - 10mm wide, for the size of Slates you laid, and a Natural Grey Grout suitable for that grout gap applied, along with a small amount of water miscible latex added to the mixing water.

Allow Grout to set for 2 weeks, keeping all dry, allowing any moisture in the slate/adhesive/grout combination to evaporate.

Dehumidifiers or Air-Conditioners may speed the process.

After that 2 weeks is up, place a clear plastic sheet over an area approximately a metre/yard square, and hold down the edges, (do NOT tape to the Slate), leave it overnight.

Check there is no "cloudiness" or water film/droplets on the underside of that clear plastic, which ensures that your earlier work is properly dry:

This is very important:

Before the Second Slate-Seal Coat is applied, once a full Coating covers the Works, if any moisture is present below, it will rise to the underside of any Slate-Seal coat, leaving it permanently with a milky film look.

Second and any subsequent Slate-Seal Coatings:

Dust off any loose debris from the grouted Slates, and apply your Slate-Seal.

Best to apply with a 15inch wide special brush, working upwind as to minimise fume exposure.

Note the earlier warning re ignition sources, also the glove and filter requirements.

The "Commercial only" rated, Solvent-based Slate-Seal used here, used Xylene as the Solvent, and a buildup of that is toxic plus flammable, so precautions need to be taken.

Water-based Slate-Seal:

This is generally a diluted version of common Woodmaker's glue, PVA based, looks milky when painted on, dries clear.

Intended for non-Industrial and non-Commercial Slate Installations, it does not last as well as the Industrial Slate-Seal of course, but is much simpler for use in the home.

Trust you are now able to make your choice, as to whether you seal your Slates.

We always Sealed Slates, because of the porosity, tendency to spalling, and to bring out the natural beauty so much better.

Kind Regards....

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#30
In reply to #29

Re: Shower tile

12/31/2007 9:12 AM

Thanks again Sparky, still have not grouted, so now I know... I'll seal it today, and grout tomarrow.

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#32
In reply to #24

Re: Shower tile

01/02/2008 10:52 AM

I think you did a great job. Your wife totally owes you a new 48 inch plasma screen.

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#34
In reply to #32

Re: Shower tile

01/02/2008 12:49 PM

I am not even going there.... besides I am working on a new gutar amp...

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#35
In reply to #34

Re: Shower tile

01/02/2008 3:17 PM

How 'bout a pic?

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#38
In reply to #35

Re: Shower tile

01/03/2008 10:47 AM

Saw it on the Blog.

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#36
In reply to #34

Re: Shower tile

01/02/2008 9:51 PM

Tube? I love the sound of a good tube amp all warmed up, add a lil' reverb and a bunch of overdrive, crank the bass and the mids... I use to own a Carvin X-100b 100 watt full stack (had to get rid of ot 11 yrs ago in order to pay rent), now I have my trusty stand by, my Dean Markley.

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#39
In reply to #36

Re: Shower tile

01/03/2008 12:45 PM

I am angling for a Mesa Lone Star 2X12 with switchable power 15, 30, 100 watts...

http://www.mesaboogie.com/Product_Info/Lonestar/Lonestar.htm

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#40
In reply to #39

Re: Shower tile

01/04/2008 2:35 AM

I know that mesa boogie is a killer brand name-I haven't had the opportunity to play one though. What kind of music do you play, have any schooling?

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#41
In reply to #40

Re: Shower tile

01/04/2008 10:18 AM

70's style rock, a little bit of country, love the blues, and I play at church, so contemporary Christian...

I have taken lessons on and off since I was 12. No university type schooling. My current teacher is an incredible jazz player. Made his living in the New Orleans French Quarter for years..

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#42
In reply to #41

Re: Shower tile

01/04/2008 12:38 PM

Made his living in the New Orleans French Quarter for years..

I once new a woman who had done the same, though not a musician per se.

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#43
In reply to #41

Re: Shower tile

01/05/2008 8:52 PM

I had 6 years of lessons and 2 years in jr college (of theory), I really enjoyed learning about how all of that structure ties together. I was going to (starting in 89-90) go to UCSD, out here in San Diego, and get my degree in either classical guitar, didn't matter if it was in instruction or performance. That is what I was planning,oh and with a stop over in Hollywood at the musicians institute thrown inbetween my junior and senior years. What happened? I started to listen to others and their views that I needed to find a "real" career to get into. I still play on occasions, mainly because my hands and fingers start going numb after a little time (approx 10-15minutes) of playing; especially, when I am playing chords. Being in the trade that I am in doesn't help either. Whether I am carrying bundles of conduit on my shoulder or tightening wirenuts onto wire my hands start going numb. Jazz is a really cool form of music. I really only paid attention to classical when I was taking lessons - it is stricter in the theory. Jazz has a lot of rules that I did not want to deal with at the time (like the melodic minor scale and how it changes tonality ascending versus descending - from a natural minor to a minor with a raised 6th or something like that... just thinking of it makes my head swim hahahahaaa). Good luck with your lessons. Playing music is a lot like life: You never learn everything there is too learn.

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#31

Re: Shower tile

01/02/2008 10:14 AM

Aaaaaargh! Hazard warning!

The two home development skills that require practice to get right, and look b.awful and expensive if they go wrong, are plain-wall plastering and tiling! Both are skills that can only really be learned by practice and experience, and that means getting it wrong a few times along the way.

Which means that risk assessment is the top priority. Consider this:

  • If it's just a few tiles for a basin splashback, then go ahead DIY and learn from the experience; build on the experience for increasing the confidence for larger projects. "Oh well, never mind. You tried, but I do want it sorted out. You can re-do it on Saturday instead of going to the ball game." (Temporary problem).
  • However, if the final finish is mission-critical, perhaps with a view to it adding significantly to the perceived resale value of the home by tiling a large area to a very high standard, then seriously consider contracting-out this task to someone with the appropriate skills on-board, for the cash expenditure will return eventually via the selling process on the property. "You plonker! You made a total mess of the bathroom. It's ruined! Why didn't you just pay someone to do it? I'm moving out until you sort it all out!!" (Longer-term, serious problem.)

Remember it is the alpha-female that determines the suitability of the home, as periodic 're-nesting' is on the top of her agenda. The present individual, and the as-yet unknown future prospective purchaser, in this category is the one that needs to be suitably impressed with the final finish.

So think very carefully on this matter before proceeding!

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#33
In reply to #31

Re: Shower tile

01/02/2008 12:48 PM

Too late PW, it is done, and it came out decently.

There are a few places where you can tell that a professional did not do it. The grout lines in the little design were not always exactly straight and true, but Mrs. S is happy with it, as are the teenagers who shower there each day.

As for the front poarch, that is really beautiful. Although I still have not grouted it, so I have plenty of opportunity to mess it up still...

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#37
In reply to #33

Re: Shower tile

01/03/2008 7:07 AM

I've been away for a while and haven't checked in but looks like you did a wonderful job. And if that tiny little nick on your finger on your daughters blog is the only blood you drew then I congratulate you. I get worst nicks than that just unloading the materials from my truck. And I REALLY like the porch. Want to come over and do my porch and walk that way? Its been on my to do list since we moved in 3 years ago.

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#45
In reply to #33

Re: Shower tile

01/10/2008 11:39 PM

A good amateur job is better than a bad "professional" job. The many non core skills I've learned have been to fix up after the "professional" job, jobs that I hate like fixing bloody motor vehicles.

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