Cyanoacrylate Glues for Joining Wood

You could try Liquid Nails:

http://www.liquidnails.com/

THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY. The product will work, but I'm looking for something that has a faster grab.

Why? Can't the job be left overnight to dry out, as with a fast-bonding PVA woodwork adhesive?

Guest,

I do not know what your application may be, and whether you are looking for a one-time home repair, or are looking into modifying a manufacturing process where you need to bond wood, but "Krazy Glue" makes a cyanoacrylate product specifically for wood and leather:

I've used this product, and it works pretty well.

===============================================================

Just my $0.02...

I've tried this product before, but wasn't happy with it. My application is of a limited nature, but I need it to give me reliable results. My application is not for any manufacturing purpose, other than for myself. You might say, I'm trying to find better ways to do things through the use of the latest technologies (that are reasonably available to me).

ronseto,

IF you are not "married" to the cyanoacrylate family of glues, and can accept a three to five minute "cure time" (as opposed to about one minute for cyanoacrylate), you will likely have much better results with a fast curing epoxy...

Something like Cyberpoxy 5000:

http://www.cyberbond1.com/pdfs/5000_TDS.pdf

It isn't inexpensive, but IT WORKS...

===============================================================

Just my $0.02...

I'm open to all suggestions. Thanks again. When I hit upon the right product, I'll reveal what I'm doing. Just can't say right now.

I'd agree with that...go with epoxy.
Mind it would help if we knew the actual application.
I've used some good polyurathane wood adhesives recently which expand slightly and start to go off in about 10mins...not much grab though.

Del

How about Gorilla Super Glue?

http://www.gorillaglue.com/glues/superglue/index.aspx

It is a modified cyanoacrylate.

as far as i know, Gorrilla Glue is a polyurethane glue, which is moisture activated---use it a lot for joiner applications, where looks don't count---it foams up (polyurethane foam), and it has creep characteristics---get it hot, and put a load on it, it will move---quick and dirty though---C-Mac

Yes and no - the standard Gorilla glue is a polyurethane.

However, the Gorilla Super Glue is a cyanoacrylate.

Just check the MSDS's:

http://www.gorillaglue.com/Portals/0/pdfs/msds/MSDS%20Super%20Glue%201-08.pdf

http://www.gorillaglue.com/Portals/0/pdfs/msds/MSDS%20Stronger%20Faster%20English.pdf

Hello "Guest",

If you need the fast adhesion of Cyanoacrylate adhesives on porous substances such as wood, there used to be a "primer" in an aerosol can which was sprayed across the surface, you waited a couple of seconds, applied the cyanoacrylate adhesive and pressed both parts together.

From: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/categories/adhesives/glues-and-cements/adhesive-primers-and-activators

Try that, or similar anaerobic Primer compound.

Kind Regards....

If you have access to "wood turning " sites, those that show how to turn bowls, etc, out of exotic wood, that contain many blemishes, such as knots, etc, they will direct you to such glues---as far as catalogue, try----The Japan Woodworker (google),, Fine Woodworking, (magazine )---you will find ads for exactly what you need---there is a company in Chatsworth, California, called Hot Stuff, that supplies what you are looking for---sorry, no link---on your own---hope this helps--from an old boat builder--c-mac

what a dumbass I am---i forgot to ask---" what is it, exactly, that you are trying to do"?--thaanks, c-mac

You don't give enough info to really answer this since a lot depends on the strength of the bond you need. But, all that said, if you want only to do the equivalent of tack welding, try photo mount adhesive - it goes tacky in about 2 minutes and can then be pressed on to stay. Likewise, if you have good surfaces, you can try ordinary contact cement.

Any bond where you need the same strength as wood requires several hours minimum - it has to pentrate the fibers. By the way, I'm not impressed with the PVAs for joints under heavy stress. When I need that, I go with Gorilla Glue (or one of it's competitors) or my favorite, hide glue (talk about a long set time!).

If there is plenty of surface, EvoStik Impact adhesive (usual disclaimer) is one of the five adhesives that are handy to have around the home. The other four are:

• Fast-setting epoxy 2-part adhesive
• UHU (usual disclaimer)
• PVA exterior woodworking adhesive
• one of the general-purpose cyanoacrylate "super glue" adhesives.

There's little that that lot won't fix.

Hi,

I use these products: http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr6001.html , for balsa wood (I am an aeromodeller), the balsa wood is so porous.

Regards

Ernesto

I built model airplanes for years with CA glues. That was when they were built from balsa wood, plywood and some hardwoods for high stress areas. (Men were iron and ships were wood etc.) I always used Hot Stuff or Jet with good results. They even have a "thick" formulation which will fill gaps and does not soak into the wood grain so fast. Try a model shop. You should even be able to find them in 2 or 3 oz bottles instead of 4 or 5 drop tubes.

How about a hot glue gun.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glue_gun

I agree with 'Jet' glue for model planes, I have used it for repair of several hardwood items in the past.

Wow! What a turnout to my question. I know I have come to the right place for info. I guess now is the time to expose my plan.

I have had a love affair with railroads, both real and model all my life. Now that I am retired from the shipbuilding field, I build models of locomotives at 1 1/2" to the foot scale. They are powered and are made from various materials, mostly wood, both hard and softwoods. Due to the small size of some of the components, I need a glue that grabs quickly, as they are too small to clamp. Also I have to make many small parts all the same. An example is gluing the end of a strip of wood, 7/16" x 3/32" into a groove (dado)that measures 1/16" deep x 3/32" wide. I require 64 of these strips to be glued at both ends (128 joints). The finished item will be a set of louvers for the side of an electric engine. I hope My description is clear. Thanks for all the replies.

Sounds cool...post some pics so we can see There are plenty of train enthusiasts here.

Del

I second Del's motion! I would love to see some pics of your projects!

DITTO!

I would love to see pix too.

I once built a model ship using wood. The planking was made of thin strips of mahogany, fastened with a gel-type isocyanate glue. It worked very well and held the wood against the curve of the hull with no problems.

A few weeks ago I saw these guys at a country fair:

http://www.pioneervalleylivesteamers.org/picture.html

many of these guys are retired machinists from Pratt and Whitney and GE. What a retirement project!

Yep! That's the same scale I'm building in. I used to build live steam engines, but it got too expensive. Now I'm trying to do the same in wood and instead of steam, I'm using electric motors, one of the reasons why I'm building models of electric engines as opposed to steam engines.

Welcome. There must be a good number of live steam enthusiasts in the Fort Lauderdale area. The group of them convinced the county to give them some unused land in a corner of a park. (Trade winds Park, Broward County) They have a long track layout permanently set up, and give train rides on weekends to children. They even managed to sink an old garage lift (single post) into the ground. They have set track on it and use it as a turntable, and are able to load and unload these heavy engines directly into the back of pick up trucks, or trailers. They use water from a garden hose to raise it.

One fellow employee was trying to get an APU (auxiliary power unit) from a plane to make a bullet train. APUs are small high speed turbines that generate electricity for larger airplanes when main engines are not running. He had some legal problems, and has not been in contact with us though.

My train collection went on temporary vacation to the attic after the first of my daughters was able to reach them. She is 32, the trains (HO) are still up there. I still grab what I can at garage sales though.

Hi Bob, Fort Lauderdale is a little out of the way for me. That's about a 9 hour drive and gas prices being what they are, I don't stray far from home these days. I don't think live steamers would welcome a wood locomotive that runs on an electric motor and batteries. It was a thought though to show them what can be accomplished with a little ingenuity and a very tight budget. I may still do that one day.

I would bet you to be wrong. When I went more often, there were people with out of town plates on their trucks that would come to run their train on the park track. They always appeared to be a very friendly group. Many of the trains were no better looking than your partially completed train is now. There were steam powered, gasoline engine powered, and battery - electric powered types. The only problem I would see is your scale is smaller than used here. If I remember correctly the rails are about 12 " apart.

I will look online to try to find their website for you and any other interested people.

Bob, Most live steam operations run on 7 1/2" gauge track. Most also run dual gauge, that is 5" and 3 3/4" gauge. My engines are designed for 7 1/2" gauge. 12" and 15" gauges are not so common. They are usually used by ammusement park operators in a commercial setting.

I looked into the group. Just like I said 7.5" track.

So rub my nose in it OK? there web site is http://www.livesteamers.org/

Other than the track size, most of what I remembered is correct it seems.

Now the question I have is will that wooden wonder fit in the carry on luggage rack?

I'm posting a photo of the engine currently under construction. The first photo is the prototype engine, a Swedish engine that was built with a wood body. The next photo is of the model.

In the top photo, you can see the louvered openings, one set on either side of the center window, two sets per side.

Nice work...

I WOULD SAY-

"Great dedication to perfection for self-assigned duties....."

mm

Have You thought about contact cement?

oilcan13

Yes, but it takes time for the cement to dry before the parts can be joined and then you must be careful to get it in the right place before it grabs.

Hi Ron and welcome

I know it is the opposite of what you are doing but what about making yourselves a small CNC router and machine the louvres and other parts out of solid wood or wood look alike plastics.

One way of doing a 2 1/2 axis machine is to get an old manual engraving machine (one with a scale adjustable pantograph) and one or two of these over designed old plotters. Both items can be obtained for free or next to nothing. My (3rd) garage looks like a plot shop with all the plotters waiting for projects planned when I retire.

I tried some Gorilla super glue and it seems to work ok. At least I know it will stay together as long as it doesn't receive any rough handling. I learned that the smoother and harder the wood is, the better the glue works. This has been a learning curve on CA glues for me. I now know a lot more about CA than I did before thanks to all who responded to my call.

Did you know how well it works when squirted into the key hole of a lock?

Hi Ronseto--

I have built a lot of furniture commercially and hands down the best(and only glue I will use) is Titebond--A jointed surface(for a table) only takes a half hour to set up enough to remove the clamps.--Smaller pieces could be a shorter time even and I have done some craft projects and have let it go after a few minutes(The softer the wood and dryer, the better). After an hour of set time I have tried to break the joint and always find it to split with the grain and not the joint. I test this from time to time by laminating a panel and breaking what is trimmed off. It is great stuff. It is not waterproof, but Titebond II is--I hate using it unless I have to--The dried excess that doesn't get wiped off gums up abrasives way worse than the regular. I haven't tried Titebond III, and won't unless they stop making the original and II(they work so well, I don't need anything more).

http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=ProductCategoryTB.asp?prodcat=1

Not sure if this will help, but when wood working the craftsmanship is way to valuable comparative to the material--I don't take chances with untried products.

"I have built a lot of furniture commercially and hands down the best(and only glue I will use) is Titebond."

I use Titebond II and III for my larger projects, but for crafts, I look for speed of set. I finished 4 sets of louvers that measure 4" x 5 7/8". I used Loctite CA and it worked great. I tried the Gorilla CA, but the Loctite was much faster setting. I've now reached a milestone in progress, and can now see the light at the end of the tunnel. It's the small details that take much of the time. This project is an exercise in micro engineering.