Wood Screws for Attaching Brackets to Oak Door

This is a design of my own making, so instructions are made up along the way. There will be a guide track routed into the bottom of the door, with a guide pin mounted onto the floor, to keep the door from swaying side to side.

Thanks for the heads up about spacing them as far apart as possible. I had completely overlooked the rocking effect possibility.

I'd use 2 screws for each bracket, size 10 x 2" or 12 x 2", stainless, 'phillips' panhead. I don't see any reason to offset them as your 2nd bracket dwg shows; I'd have all 4 screws in the same line. I'd make matching holes in the farside of the bracket so the screwdriver is in line with the screw when I attach the bracket. (I'd use a screwdriver bit in my drill, and I'd set the torque to an intermediate setting initially using just enough torque to install the screw and avoid stripping the thread.)

As long as your door is structurally sound, you can pendant the door just fine. It is done that way often.

Have you devised some custom track system? I have not seen brackets as illustrated used for sliding doors.

Most manufacturers of sliding hardware suggest the hangers and trucks be mounted about 6" from each edge. This can vary with the track configuration, so be careful.

Screw size for attachmant? You have not given us a whole lot to go on... screws provided by manufacturers of sliding door hardware are #10 or #12 wood screws, about 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" long. Most decidely 2 screws at each hanger minimum.

Consider the torque on the bracket caused by friction against the sides of the roller. You need to at least extend the bracket along a section of the top of the door to hold the roller rigid/parallel to the runner.

#12x2" SS oval head Phillips 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" from edge of door to edge of bracket, centered, screw holes pre-drilled with a 1/8" bit.

what I would suggest is a paid of load spreading plates, with 6-8 one inch screws into the end grain. These will be about .1 inch thick. The suspension brackets can then be attached to this plate with welds or countersunk screws from the other side.

This will give a robust suspension. An 80 pound door swinging can create a lot of force and the 2 screws into the wood might be torn out after a while.

After all that you might want to ad a stained glass (lead light) window. Just sayin', Ky.

Never had a chance to consider the chameleon - the rice paper window film had already won out with a single vote cast by the wife.

Yeah, they do that. Looks like it will be up and running soon. Send us a pic, Ky.

First thing I would do, is to take a regular # 12 WOODSCREW, with shoulder, et al, and try it first into the end grain of the stile- Use a proper sized screw diameter, with a proper shoulder diameter-Bash it about a bit- Move it around--See how easy it seats, or if it is too easy to sink---If there are concerns, what we do , is to drill a 3/4 inch hole into the end grain, insert a 3/4 inch DOWEL, down 1 1/2 inch, using epoxy glue, saturate the wood around it with epoxy, and let it set for 24 hours. Then re-drill/countersink the proper size and set the screws--Old doors often have the end grain being the most vunerable over their lives, having been under sealed, and over exposed to the conditions and therefore, the least able to hold a proper fastening, in present time. This has worked well on double swinging kitchen /pantry doors , and entry doors ,up to 4 feet in width , and weighing at over a hundred and twenty pounds a piece--Make sure you stabilize the end grain before putting a lot of time and effort into it--Good luck, and let us hear on how it came out..

I have used the dowel method with much success BUT I drilled the holes for the dowel into the side edges of the door 6"deep and 3/4" down from top of door. That way the bracket screws are biting into the side grain of the dowels.

I agree, use standard pocket door hardware and you should have no problems. The system is made to do just what you want.

GA from me.

Johnson Hardware is the cats meow. (I use them often) They went through the testing phase a long time ago and have gotten it right.

You may have missed that this is not a pocket door. As I described in the original post it is a barn door type track so the door hangs external of the wall.

Oak Door.. You should not have a problem with end grain mounting.. The wood will be well seasoned by now but look at the end grain to make sure you have it the right way up The top will be a different colour and give yourself 1/2 of the rail from the edge before you drill. Also only use brass screws..looking at your drawing I would say no less than 2 1/2" or more. Mark a centerline and then pre drill 1/2 the width of the top shank of the screw the whole depth of the screw .. To avoid splitting do not use twin-fast or screws that have a thread all the way up rub some candle wax or grease (animal ) on the screwthread to assist the screw on the way in and remember when fitting the bracket you may have to use a ratchet set because there is no hole in the top of the bracket for screwdriver access use the correct screwdriver bit for the job and countersink the bracket..Hope this helps you..

Why brass over stainless steel as other posters have suggested?

Brass was suggested in lieu of carbon (plain) steel screws. Iron will react with the tannin in oak, and turn the wood blue.

Unless your door is very custom, it is in fact an oak veneer over a parent wood. The caution about fasteners is not applicable if located in the parent wood of the rail.

It is solid oak (no veneer) so brass is the best choice then?

Brass, stainless steel, or unobtanium screws are indicated.

I'm not an engineer, but I am an interior designer, and I can tell you that pocket doors that get a lot of use can end up being a problem child over the long run. First, you must make sure that you have sufficient clearance behind the wall so that the wood can expand with moisture (especially in a bathroom) or it will rub against anything back there (i.e.: nails in the studs). Also, just a thought, but have you considered a recessed track in the floor? I am not a fan of suspended anything (nor of cantilevers).

I'm in a hurry so have not read all comments. I've hung many doors in the situation you are describing. Use #10 or # 12 pan head sheet metal screws 2" or more (they have thread all the way for better holding strength). Size your bit carefully, best of luck.

Consider the following link for fastener design.

http://artikel-software.com/file/Wood%20As%20An%20Engineering%20Material%20-%202.pdf

If you are screwing into end grain, you want to avoid splitting the wood. Use a fairly long screw. Pilot drill a full diameter hole about an inch deep. Drill a further pilot hole equal to the root diameter of the screw to the full length of the screw. Sharp threads are best; they will cut into the wood rather than "trying" to spread it. Number 10 or 12 screws about 2.5" long should be good. Tighten the screws snugly, but do not "reef" on them. I would use at least two screws per hanger.

I have seen data on the holding power of screws in either end or side grain, but alas I forget where.

Most of the posts have referred to pocket doors. From your diagrams it would seem you are hanging the door from a track and in your OP you say there is no corresponding track at the bottom. So what stops the door swinging in from the bottom? Consider how an 80lb oak door would be conventionally hung; 3 x 4" hinges with 4 x 1 1/4" screws = 15" of screw thread. The hinges are installed in rebates so the screws carry less weight. And a lot of the weight is applied as a shear (i.e. across the screw). Now you are hanging the door suspended only by the screws with the force applied axially (along the screw length), in end grain. You will find that the door will operate OK for a while, but in time the screws will tend to pull through the end grain. The consequences of screw failure could be significant, if a glazed door were to fall on someone for example. I would: - use as long a screw as you can find (3-4") - use at least 2 per bracket - screw them at a slight angle ("on the tosh" as joiners say), so some of the force is resisted as shear - use stainless steel (steel will corrode in oak, brass is not as strong) - consider lag screws (large screws with bolt heads) Just my ha'pen worth.