Requirements for Repairing Extension Cords

Your insurance carrier would very likely have an opinion.

My opinion is that if they are used in the workplace, don't do it.

Extension Cord Conundrum - Online Safety Community

Agree with lyn: if in a shop, you're just asking for problems.

The cords are UL listed when both molded ends are intact, no splices, etc. If the cord is modified (other than as originally manufactured), the UL tag is invalid. I'm interpreting the link provided by SolarEagle as supporting this position.

I feel for ya: I ran steel fab shops and dropcords are simply an expensive consumable. You can take them home and use 'em (an observation, not a suggestion), but don't take repaired cords to a jobsite or use them in your shop.

GA. By the way, the connectors, and plugs shown, are listed as "armored", and have been less durable than the premium quality Pass and Seymour, and Hubble ends.

Does your place of work require UL listing? _^Probably not.

Does your insurance carrier require UL listing? _^Probably not.

Whenever one of mine gets hacked, chopped stretched, lawn-mowered (mauled?), I buy a plug and a receptacle end from Home Despot and make two new ones.

These, however, are for home use.

At work, we make our own...period. Same parts on the ends, and bologna cord in the middle.

So, the energy hits your building (a place of business, on which the livelihood of several families rely) at the transformer (UL listed device). From the transformer, the energy flows to a UL listed distribution panel, through UL listed breakers into UL listed cabling run in UL listed wirepipes. The cable terminates at a point-of-use receptacle in the wall (receptacle and enclosure UL listed), ready for a plug. All of these components are installed by trained and certified, licensed and insured electricians, and inspected by trained and certified inspectors.

An electrical device is used: hotsaw, portable drill press, radio... whatever it may be (UL listed without a doubt). Between the receptacle and the device is a cord made from unlisted components by an unlicensed uninsured tinkerer.

Where is the weak link in this chain? In the event of an unscheduled undesired thermal event, where do you suppose initial suspicion of ignition source will fall?

This false economy seems quite foolish to me.

"Never argue with a fool, onlookers may not be able to tell the difference."

― Mark Twain

"BTW contrary to popular belief technically UL ratings are not a mandatory requirements."

That's sort of, kind of, true but not really true at all.

The money grubbers and weasels have the upper hand.

If you want to do business in the USA (or anywhere else)and are manufacture anything with an electrical cord you will have to have that device tested by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory. Period, end of story.

Been there, done that in 1991, and it ain't cheap. UL is the oldest and most widely recognized laboratory.

Then there's the CE Mark. That's another story.

You also will not get any reputable insurance company to insure your business or pay a claim if you are found to be using non-compliant equipment that causes a loss.

You can do whatever you want to on the farm, but if you have a business you'd better have compliant electrical equipment.

Well, you are sort of, kind of, not wrong...but really wrong.

No period, not the end of story. Due to the supremacy clause a lot more goes on that you appear to not be informed on.

=================

Are you a bell-boy working with the Door Man?

Oh, yeah, I forgot...Lyn-Door Industries...

"We Kiss Each Other's Ass So You Don't Have To!"

Nuthin' but love!

Cheers!

Are you an unqualified "Door Man"?

"Are you an unqualified "Door Man"?"

No, I'm a licensed and insured Door Man who provides UL listed door assemblies made from UL listed components. I'm a Door Man who runs a Door Shop and doesn't want to explain to the boss about the handful of OSHA citations he has just been served, justifying the repaired dropcords I made (the subject of the citations) with weak arguements like "Jeez, why do they sell the cord ends at Home Depot if I can't use 'em?"

I don't assemble or make permanent repair to electrical extension cords.

I am not going to agree that your position on this is correct, so you may as well stop trying to sweet-talk me into believing that it is.

I won't argue the do's and don'ts of OSHA rules. I will say that a good UL listed replacement plug that will handle the abuse of a work environment will cost almost as much as a new cord UL listed extension coed. Add your time and labor. It will usually be more cost effective to replace it. Another thing is that the abuse the cord gets there is usually no telling what shape the conductors are in though out the length. They get ran over, things dropped on them and pulled on.

If you are replacing a molded plug then it does not meet OSHA rules to replace the plug unless your replacement plug is molded on also. Has to be return to the same state it was sold under.

ozzb,

I thought that was a stretch until I found this nugget from OSHA:

"...Flexible cord not less than No. 12 American Wire Gauge (AWG) may be repaired by splicing the conductors with a suitable vulcanized or molded splice. Please note that removing a damaged section of a flexible cord on an appliance and installing an attachment plug and a cord connection on the two ends would not be allowed. Such a repair would result in an extension cord between the flexible cord of the appliance and the installed building receptacle. Under paragraph 1910.305(a)(2)(i), this extension cord would be considered temporary wiring which is not permitted for workplace use..."

So it's ok to use a molded splice as long as it's from a NRTL, but not a molded plug and socket combo approved by the same NRTL!!

Alan

OSHA's rules are always open to interpretation. Even the compliance officers may have their own interpretation when doing an inspection. I've had to deal with it since 2006 as we are in the SHARPS program. And every time they change a consultant there is change of some view on how they would like things to be.

Rules on electrical equipment and devices is repairs to as tested. Extension cords usually have molded plugs. A replacement is not molded on. So it not as tested.

I did find this on field made cord sets

www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=INTERPRETATIONS&p_id=20709

Even with that detailed inspection procedure following a connector replacement, there is still no way to determine if any of the metallic wires have broken strands from repeated bending, or from being pulled on.

RICHARDMICHAEL-

Extension cords can be used if they have been repaired to their original (new) state.

https://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=INTERPRETATIONS&p_id=27353

Repairs of extension cords are therefore permitted under §1926.404(b)(1)(iii)(C). However, in order to remain compliant with §1926.403(a), the repairs must return the equipment to the state in which it was initially approved.

The repair of cords and cord sets is permitted under 1926.404(b)(1)(iii)(C): This is in the construction section and not the general industry 29 CRF 1910

Each cord set, attachment cap, plug and receptacle of cord sets, and any equipment connected by cord and plug, except cord sets and receptacles which are fixed and not exposed to damage, shall be visually inspected before each day's use for external defects, such as deformed or missing pins or insulation damage, and for indications for possible internal damage. Equipment found damaged or defective shall not be used until repaired. (Emphasis added.)

Also, extension cords cannot be used in the place of hard wiring. The only way you can get away with this is if it is short term temporary while you are installing the hard wire.

Extension cords are always on the hit list for an OSHA inspection. Haven't checked recently but extension cords, grinding wheel clearance from the rest and compressed gas cylinders always made the top 10 list of citations

Of important note: Extension cords as they come from the supplier are usually in poor condition as compared to repaired ones if quality fittings are used. Those made by Hubbell and other various manufacturers that produce good products are much better than the molded plugs and sockets. Molded ones usually only have a loose twist in the wire to make the connection between the wire and the plug/connector joint. Screw terminal connections are much, much better. They use compression to keep the wire and fitting in contact. Another no no is to use an extension cord that the conductors are too small for the load. If you're pulling 15 amps it has to be at least #14 and not the convenient one that is #18. Also if the cord has 15 amp plug/ connector but wire size is enough for more than the plug/connector configuration (such as #12m 20amp or #10, 30 amp) you cannot exceed the 15amp of the plug/connection.

Extension cords were one of the most costly nationwide sections of the original OSHA law passed in the early 1979's.

Good Luck, Old Salt

The debate over OSHA has many arguments, but if it comes to a court of law, If you chose not to use the prevailing rules for safety, you will have to shoulder the responsibility for problems. There are some cases where firefighting is exempt from OSHA regs. But because that is the prevailing standard for many things, that is how procedures are done in the service.

We have overhead 120 volt cord reels that provide power to on-board air compressors, battery chargers, engine pre-heaters and some times refrigeration/ air conditioning systems. The plug is supposed to eject automatically when the starter is activated. Molded plug connectors will not usually work because of the design that would block the ground pin if the cord were to try to be forced into an inverted connector. Add to that, is the issue of weather the cord is properly grounded day after day, or is the truck going to give me a shock when I plug in the cord. Another consideration is weather the cord is still live. The solution I have found to work is from Ericsson. http://products.ericson.com/viewitems/ectors-plugs-connectors-wiring-devices-receptacles/perma-watch-ground-and-continuity-monitors

They have two small LEDs in side them It will glow blue if all connectors are wired correctly. Glow red if reversed neutral and power, or ground. And will not glow at all if the power is missing, or both neutral and ground are missing.

They make an excellent product, and comparable to the high quality products from Pass and Seymour.

Does it violate OSHA regulations? Probably so, but I feel I have done more than is required by OSHA. I have provided continuously monitored, and visible proof of ground. BTW, the reels have GFI breakers on each of them.

bob c-

Unless a state has its own state OSHA program the federal govt. has jurisdiction, example- Florida. If a state has its own plan it must meet or exceed the requirements of the comparable section of the federal law, example- California. Some states have a plan that is limited to public employees only and not private employees, example- New Jersey. ("Occupational Safety and Health Act of 1970."). Most states that have their own plans simply adopt parts of the federal law for their standards.

The same sort of thing happens between ANSI, NFPA, state OSHA's and the federal OSHA. NFPA is not a law making organization just as ANSI is not. The NFPA is a standard (guide) developing organization; they do the research, write the standard and publish it as a standard and not a law. These become law when the state, federal or other agencies adopt the standard as law for their OSHA programs. Therefore there is no conflict between the NFPA and OSHA because NFPA standards are not laws. The NFPA standard (guide) can become the law if it is adopted by the state/federal OSHA and made a law for that jurisdiction.

As you cited there is a tremendous amount of confusion within firefighting concerning the NFPA standards and the OSHA law. Perhaps the most frequently questioned is the issue of helmets. Some are labeled as NFPA (standard) approved, others are labeled as OSHA (law) (adopted) approved and some are labeled as both NFPA and OSHA approved/adopted. An excellent example of where OSHA has adopted some of the NFPA standards by "national consensus" is 29CFR1910.156 where OSHA has accepted the NFPA standard no. 1972, Structural Fire Fighter's Helmets, as the federal law, OSHA 29CFR1910.156. There are also some laws where the federal OSHA has adopted ANSI standards or ANSI/NFPA standards as their law. An excellent list of these is at:

https://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=STANDARDS&p_id=10125

Although it may seem like some firefighting things are exempt from OSHA it is because the NFPA standard or a portion of it have been adopted by consensus by the appropriate state/local agency. This then makes them identical. Some confusion can occur when an ANSI standard is adopted by consensus by OSHA and not adopted from a NFPA standard for the same type unit, ANSI Z88.5 American National Standard, Practice for Respirator Protection for the Fire ServiceàOSHA 1910.156.

This can be confusing for a lot of firefighting issues. I don't worry about it often. I just worry that my helmet strap is tight enough when I need to wear the helmet.

Good Luck, Old Salt

Thank you for the details. It is one of the rumors that keeps surfacing. From my point of view, (as the one repairing things) I have always tried to keep safety foremost. I have every seat equipped with seat belts. But I can not force people too wear them. All air-pack seats, and air pack brackets have collision restraint straps installed, but again I can not force people to use them. All I can do is bitch at the group for not using the safety equipment. Thanks again. Bob.

All good advice. How about storing the cords till a power outage and then putting all available hands to stripping copper. You might at least recover some costs.

You cannot and will not know if a cord is ok by simply looking at it.

Australian requirements are for "testing and tagging" every twelve months or two years depending on the installation. A visual inspection is just that visual. Get a sparky to check and test them and change the plugs for you. Cheaper than the compensation for someone dieing because throwing it out was expensive.

You can not know weather the wires will conduct their full rated capacity without a load test. But all other concerns can be verified if using an Ericsson connector.

So if there is no external physical damage to the cable, how could the quality of the internal conductors possibly be different from the day it was manufactured?

Internal physical damage that cannot be seen from the outside? It does happen. Which is why testing at intervals is important. It will catch most problems.

So does that mean you're bringing into question the quality/manufacturer of the cable? Because anything that is going to damage a multistranded copper cable, will leave visible evidence on the external insulation. It all depends on how experienced that person who's doing the inspection is and, how indepth that inspection is carried out.

Quite.

What if I replaced the plug on the actual appliance and not the extension cord? Is this also "temporary wiring". Would I have to throw out my tool because a prong on the plug became damaged?

This would be a lot more expensive than just a cord, but it is exactly the same problem. I don't think any of us would throw out a drill press because the ground prong came out.

Replace the cord on the tool.

That's why you save the plug ends of dropcords... to use as replacement tool cords.

You should use proper replacement parts.

OMG!

You can't replace the plug!!!

That would be unsafe!!! That's modified equipment and a violation of the NEC!!! You're insurance won't pay!!!

NOOOOOOOOOO!!!

I'm calling the UL!!!

...not...

Cheers!

What would I use for a replacement cord? I would probably take an extension cord, cut one end off and connect to the tool. That connection will not be as good as a UL approved plug to replace the original damaged plug.

Any decent quality tool will have spare parts available; this assortment of parts will include a factory correct power cord. This is the correct way to bring a tool with a bad cord back online.

If you reread my comment, other options are available. I have done this as a field expedient patch. If you reread some of the stuff here by tinkerer, there are yet other options available. Neither of these, despite opinions expressed to the contrary, are correct fixes.

You or anyone may perform any sort of repair that you wish. Convert your drill motor to run on 220VAC for all I care. If I saw any of my shop guys fix a tool in this manner, the tool would be pulled from service and wait for parts. I am responsible to my boss to run a safe and legal shop... this position is contrary to the opinions of other members, so take whatever free advice you want.

We make extension cords in our plant for outlets of 240V, 460V and 575V. These are all made with Hubble connectors on the end. I do not know of anyone selling off the shelf UL approved extension cords in these voltages. The same rule would have to apply regardless of voltage or amperage.

The OSHA rule makes no sense and was probably lobbied for by a cord manufacturer.

They have an OSHA in Canada?

While I do agree with you, in principal, that common sense has taken a back seat to safety and practicality, I also know that unless you are in your own home, or out in the boonies, the government regulations we have to live with won't go away just because they are unfair.

Also, insurance companies have a staff of lawyers whose job it is to point out all the things we do wrong when a claim is filed.

Although some here seem to believe that they can ignore those regulations at their whim, reality may eventually slap them on the backside, as their parents should have done years ago.

As to your rhetorical connector question, there's no reason I can see, that a properly constructed connector, properly installed won't be fine. But, I don't make the rules.

"As to your rhetorical connector question, there's no reason I can see, that a properly constructed connector, properly installed won't be fine."

That is the problem. properly installed is not something that can be inspected. Are the screws tight? Are neutral and ground crossed? Is the insulation stripped back too far leaving bare wires capable of touching another metallic conductor?Is the cord clamp tight enough to hold tight when the cord is yanked? These are the things that can not be determined. And that is why the molded ones are desirable. Because the job is only as good as the person doing it.

GA

As per the area office of closest to me, they stated that portable tool cords can be replaced as long as they are replaced "in kind". Plugs must be of the same quality or better, strain reliefs must be installed and at least as effective as the original if supplied that way, wire size must be the same or with a bigger size (lower number), if the connection to the tool terminals were with crimp connectors it must be that way in the repaired tool, etc.

The section applicable is 26CRF1926.302 (a). This section references the requirements for double-insulated tools (two prong plugs) which is a stricter requirement than for grounded tools (three prong, one wire hot, one wire neutral and one wire ground). Therefore the standard is also applicable for grounded tools.

Why not ask OSHA what the requirements are to build your own extensions ? Using UL cord and UL connectors rated for your environment ? Then when a cord is damaged you can return it to as-built condition, albeit possibly a little shorter. Retest might be required, but usually its a matter of verifying the resistance values of the conductors ( especially Ground ). Ask your manager / insurer if shop built cords can be accepted. A cord assembled by a journeyman electrician using accepted UL components should meet requirements, but be sure to get written confirmation of this from your insurance / inspector. The initial cost of building your own will be offset by the savings of repair and reuse, if any. More work for you, but you seem ok with that. Some environments forbid the use of extensions entirely, so you might find out you have been outside the rules anyway. Check your insurer to be certain. After all they are the ones who could legally refuse to cover any loss incurred where the cords come into question. Be aware that depending on the conditions of service you might have to implement an annual PPM schedule and record results to show continued compliance. Does in-shop repair still look attractive to you ? Caveat Emptor.

To all those controlled freaks who have no responsibility or skill and love to be controlled by insurance companies who rip you off and make millions from your idiocities.

A good electrician, with some pride, and knowledge would simply test the cable before further use. he would check the outer sheath for damage. He would ensure that his workmanship is to a high standard and he would know how to replace a simple plug or socket. And do it well and properly and safely and ensure it was safe for use.

So to all those arse creepers who treat H&S folks like gods with super powers and fear, get real. Half the time they have no idea at all about common sense. The remainder they don't care about your costs. Only the consumer cares.

Start taken control of your learning skill and be responsible rather than coping out to fools. HSE are not the only folks with Common Sense. My advice, change the stupid *** plug and test the lead to ensure it is safe for use, and if it is too short, cut it longer.

My rant is done.

IQ-

I agree with you, but I must also disagree on some of the situations you have cited. Example #1: I never had an OSHA inspector come in, take a tour and then cite the electrician. I was the one he always went to after the inspection and I was the one who he handed the citation to. If I didn't want to get any more of them I made sure I knew what had to be done and that it got done right; #2 Not all electricians are good and take pride in their work. If they get past the probationary period there are situations where it is almost impossible to get rid of them; #3, aligned with #2, the good electricians can't do everything, i.e. their job and the less than good one's jobs: #4 Not all EH&S folks are arse creepers or arse kissers! Some of them, and I regard myself as one who is knowledgeable enough not to be included in, are intelligent, motivated, knowledgeable, human considerate, professional and have much experience with the tools in our own hands whether it be vocational or avocational. We also get fired if enough goes wrong, even with extension cords.

Consumers aren't the only ones who care about costs. "A penny saved today is a dollar spent in the future". Therefore I agree with you in the manner in which cords should be checked and repaired if necessary and possible, but who checks the work of the electrician? We are not all stupid. One of the best things is being able to work other persons with good common sense such as most of us have.

Also, what is your method for "testing" extension cords?

Good Luck, Old Salt

My, my.

You seem to be quite testy and overhyped over this issue.

You also have an attitude which won't win you many friends here.

And finally, you add nothing to the discussion except your opinion, for what that's worth, which isn't much.

Take a deep breath, count to 10, and hit the shut-down button.

Have a great day.

I sure am Lyn. So if you wont mind, I shall look forward to your poison quips and attitude on a very important question, which I shall raise later this week. It will be good to get a world wide opinion on a serious question of ideals and morals. I certainly will look forward to all quips, answers and opinions.

NB: My friends are in my computer, and that's OK with me. My attitude is polished daily and kept sharp. And sometimes Lyn, I take things seriously and I should not.

If one needs to debate a changing of a plug on an extension cable, there is serious problems with the world as we know it.I think the question should be, is it safe to use? would you use it? and why does it have to be a molded plug to make it safe?

As stated, this was some F'Wit who wrote a spec to suit his wire manufacturing business and made a lot of money from doing so. The thing with bribery and corruption is.....It works!

It's easy to be sensitive to the unqualified rhetoric that one comes across on CR4. Some people just attack from the first post.

Trolls abound, from the mountains to the desert.

Osha rules are all about insurance and liability and apply only to the workplace. For a home shop, one must use common sense as to whether a cord used in the work place can safely be used. Plugs and receptacles are easy to replace. There are many cords coming from China that are questionable, even when new. Use name and price as your guide and the UL seal.

There are plenty of inferior products that somehow garner a UL listing, and plenty of well assembled cord sets that do not have such a listing. Molded cord ends are no great shakes. Somebody is evaluating things on fictitious criteria, as is no surprise in bureaucrazies.

"There are plenty of inferior products that somehow garner a UL listing,"

I worked for a short time at a local sign company that had a somehow managed to get certified to UL mark their stuff some 30 years ago.

Everything we made was crap and a half quality wise and none of the wiring let alone anything else was to code either but by gosh we never failed to put those damn UL listing stickers on everything that went out the door.