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60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 11:12 AM

How do I use my 60Hz, 220-240 V treadmill here in the US?

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#1

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/16/2015 11:17 AM

If you have a dryer outlet that would be 220V. use that, you may have to get a plug.

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#27
In reply to #1

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 4:24 AM

Hi phoenix911,

you appear (when reading from the top down) to be the first one with the right answer (Post #1!!) and (I haven't read completely through all answers yet!) the only one with the right answer up to now!

Thats when I gave up reading further down!!!

GA Buddy.

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#38
In reply to #27

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 9:24 AM

Thanks, when a comment was made of that people should stop with the jokes and keep their day jobs..... I don't have the heart to tell him .... "This is my day job"... He seems to really enjoyed it. Seriously, I'm an vacation, and right now, I'm in Austin Strubel airport going to D.C..... Wa hoo.

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#2

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/16/2015 11:20 AM

If it's like my 60 hz, 120 vac treadmill, you wipe off the accumulated dust and sell it for less than half of what you paid for it.

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#3

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/16/2015 11:30 AM

Well it should have different voltage settings, so I would check for those first....If all else fails, then check wattage requirements and possibly get a step up/down transformer in the proper wattage range.....If you give us the brand name, model number and electrical info off the label, we might be able be able to provide more info....

http://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC200W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MW83OG/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

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#4
In reply to #3

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/16/2015 11:50 AM

Excellent. Let me get that for you.

Thanks!

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#6
In reply to #3

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/16/2015 11:58 AM

Horizon Fitness , USA

Model Horizon Series Ti22

Air Cell Technology

Input 220-240 Vac

Current 7A

50 Hz

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#16
In reply to #6

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/16/2015 4:21 PM

The link for the transformer SolarEagle posted is for 200 watt, your power is a bit more then that. You need about 10X more (7 amps at 240 is 1680 watts).

For reference, my Horizon Fitness treadmill has blown 3 servo amps, and is now sitting to be cannibalized for the DC motor.

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#17
In reply to #16

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/16/2015 8:41 PM

The manual for this one says it needs a dedicated 20A 240V circuit. That would mean a 40A 120V circuit! You are not going to be able to use this thing in your house here in the USA unless you can make an adaptor plug to plug it into an electric dryer outlet, and of course not at the same time as your drier!

Why oh why do people not think about this sort of thing when moving appliances from over seas?

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#19
In reply to #17

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/16/2015 10:30 PM

It has a manual?????????????????

Musta gotten lost in transit.

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#21
In reply to #17

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/16/2015 11:11 PM

The manual for this one says it needs a dedicated 20A 240V circuit. That would mean a 40A 120V circuit!

Circuit breaker sizing is NOT in the manual I have in front of me? 20A 120V should be fine (or whatever the next standard size is in the US). Come on now, common sense. Its a treadmill not a......electric furnace.

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#23
In reply to #21

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 1:27 AM

It's a 240V motor, continuous output is 2.45HP. That's going to be about 22A running current if it were 120V, x1.25 = 27.5MCA, so ok, it might fit behind a 30A CB, assuming there is a drive on it that limits the starting current to what a 30A CB can handle. Still not going to work on a 20A breaker, and it is not designed for 120V anyway. Even though the company is American, this is a version not sold here, designed for 240V 50Hz for use other than North America.

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#49
In reply to #23

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 3:00 PM

I am still a little confused, the information and manual I could find on this particular model indicated a 2HP motor and using a dedicated 20A circuit and 220-240V 20A outlet.

Perhaps we are talking about a different model variant? Frequency was not mentioned but the photos definitely showed American plugs and sockets.

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#22
In reply to #17

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 12:23 AM

I guess I've missed something here... Isn't a home treadmill a device intended to give the user some exercise? In that case, it ought to be generating electricity, not using large amounts of it!

I can't imagine a home treadmill requiring 4kW of power... But then I don't have one; I get my exercise gardening, cutting and hauling firewood, etc...

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#30
In reply to #22

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 5:00 AM

My thoughts also, not being familiar with these things. How does an input of ~ 1.68kW arise? A man can only produce about 0.1 kW, and not for long at that. How many people are on this thing at a time?

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#31
In reply to #30

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 5:08 AM

The usual reason to need such a high current supply are to handle motor starting current (and fatties!)!

Running (pun intended!) current is usually much lower for most types of motor that I know of......

Its obviously of a poor design with no attempt at reduced current starting and running.

Was probably very cheap or should have been!!

In a modern world, wasting electricity just to go running, is really quite appalling.

But with the crime rate and lack of good gun control in many cities around the world, I expect its needed.

(Not that I have seen runners with a billfold, usually a couple of bills for an ice cream and a coffee, to replace the calories lost!! Another good reason not to go outside maybe due to tempting ice cream parlours and coffee shops?)

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#32
In reply to #31

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 6:49 AM

OK I get it a bit more now. Perhaps it would be better to slope the thing uphill, then there'd be a chance of extracting power from it.

I recently read a book Breakfast with Socrates, about philosophical aspects of everyday activities, with a chapter Going to the gym. This pointed out the irony of driving there, when if he'd walked/jogged/biked then turned round and gone home the same way he'd get the exercise without the cost of petrol and gym fees, and done the planet a favour as well!

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#42
In reply to #32

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 12:08 PM

Well put!!!

Funny too as well as being true!!

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#67
In reply to #32

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/18/2015 12:47 PM

If anyone has any free time and stuck waiting (for whoever) in a parking lot try to post up close to the front of gym and watch how many people will circle around looking a parking slot as close to the front doors as they can get. What I have noticed is, it's mostly women in high end luxury Lexus, Jaguars, Porsches wearing their form fitting spandex leggings!

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#39
In reply to #31

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 9:26 AM

Maybe it's needed to run the tv? Or the blender, or something.:-/

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#36
In reply to #22

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 9:20 AM

Maybe he should run down to the mail box and back instead. ;-)

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#43
In reply to #36

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 12:10 PM

LOL!!

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#35
In reply to #6

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/17/2015 8:55 AM

I see an issue no-one else has notuiced. This post is in conflict with the original parameters we were given. I see 50Hz here and 60Hz is what we were told. A 220V system at 50Hz sounds more plausible than one at 60Hz, unless you have come from Brazil. (???)

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#63
In reply to #35

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/18/2015 11:57 AM

I Point that out in my post #25, and asked the OP why he's all pissy ......?

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#64
In reply to #63

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/18/2015 12:11 PM

Yes - I see you did - but did you or anyone else note the issues this causes with the motor? Everyone is worried about the voltage, but what about the frequency that is incorrect? - BIG issue.

That's okay, I've got even more problems for them. The first answer with 5 votes creates another serious problem. A 220V US circuit will have both lines hot. (120V) The original had a hot line (220V) and a neutral line. Now if the manufacturer has internal protection, it will be on only one line. The neutral line will be unprotected internally. So now the OP is dependent on his protection for the receptacle to cover the former neutral line, and that, on a dryer circuit, could be a big larger than anything the manufacturer provided. He has to be very careful how he protects his 220V receptacle.

I convert European built panels for use here regularly and there are issues such as this to watch for.

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#65
In reply to #64

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/18/2015 12:26 PM

Hi Lee Jourdan,

do you think the big motor in a treadmill will be driven directly with 60 or 50 Hz?

Variable speed is needed. So the motor will be fed by a VFD.

brgds

Snel

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#66
In reply to #64

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/18/2015 12:29 PM

All true but it seems to me that any answer but "plug it in here if you want to sweat, big boy" will be quickly rebuked by this OP. The OP clearly has no understanding of electricity. If they did they'd realized that virtually all appliances should remain in the region that matches the power distribution that it can handle.

This also means that any circuitry inquiry we ask will not be properly answered. I suspect this 2 hp motor is driven by a three phase VFD that operates off of DC power and not directly connected to the grid. Getting the OP to understanding these acronyms let alone properly identifying them in this treadmill is not worth it.

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#69
In reply to #66

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/18/2015 1:31 PM

Exactly! Perfect answer! The first thing to do in this situation, if you absolutely have to run this on "foreign" voltage, is open the equipment and see how it is wired. This OP apparently shouldn't be trying that. Get a new treadmill, please.

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#70
In reply to #69

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/18/2015 4:53 PM

But shipping is free.... :-/

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#71
In reply to #64

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/18/2015 8:18 PM

The biggest problem will only be that the on off switch may only be single pole, then he should change it for a double pole.

Items built to use UK style mains plugs and sockets, are allowed to have a single pole switch in the phase only.

Units like this normally do not have earth leakage equipment as it is not a requirement and only pushes the price up....

It is not allowed to have a neutral earth link inside such a unit.

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#73
In reply to #71

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/19/2015 8:12 AM

Okay - without a neutral earth link that's one large area of concern removed.

The switch definitely has to go.

Redfred and I are of the opinion that this person should probably not try such things.

I work on control panels - not consumer products, so I'm not real familiar here. Any chance of an automatically resetting circuit breaker in there? Having not seen it, I also was considering that there could be a fuse accessible from the exterior, and that would be on one line only.

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#74
In reply to #73

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/19/2015 8:47 AM

Any chance of an automatically resetting circuit breaker...

That has to be one of the most dangerous phrases I've ever seen in this Electrical Engineering forum.

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#75
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Re: Lee Jourdan

03/19/2015 9:09 AM

Your right - absolutely right - brains not working today. There are thermal overloads that are auto reset, but the breaker stays tripped. That's what I was thinking of. But, they wouldn't try that in consumer products since they don't want you opening it.

In low voltage the term does apply, but that's not pertinent here.

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#76
In reply to #73

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/19/2015 2:08 PM

I feel that safety is important, therefore only US code should be followed. There are people here with better US code knowledge than I....

Another point only partly relevant to this blog.

It struck me that it may be quite difficult to install ELCBs and the like, in the US for 120VAC devices. Can anyone here show me how its done?

Two pin circuits must normally be only for double insulated equipment I guess....with three pin, it must be easier to protect the user.....I think!!!

I know the system here and in the UK and how it works....but I am not able to fully relate the USA system to that knowledge.....a weblink that explains it correctly will be enough.

I am sure its easier than my take.

Thanks in advance,

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#77
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Re: Lee Jourdan

03/19/2015 2:17 PM

No immediate link comes to mind - try Googling "GFCI" for the USA - we call it a different name than you. (I'm at work now - try to get to this later)

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#78
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Re: Lee Jourdan

03/19/2015 5:02 PM

For Andy - GFCI = Ground Fault Circuit Interrupte.

We also have GFIs, which protect a single device, while a GFCI can protect a circuit with more than one load.

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#79
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Re: Lee Jourdan

03/19/2015 5:23 PM

Yeah - I forget that I am one dimensional - I design/build machinery control panels, not general purpose lighting/receptacle panels, or residential wiring. Any breaker I pick for my type of use is going always called GFCI, even though I only control/protect one device with it. Actually my use is solely as an isolation circuit device for non-UL listed equipment per Appendix B. I never see 120VAC outlets to protect or such things.

I think the term is actually interchangeable, but maybe not correctly. (??) Is this a "Mike Holt" question???

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#80
In reply to #79

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/19/2015 5:54 PM

Oops - I see I left the last "r" off of "interrupter".

We so often assume things... I may well be mistaken, having assumed a difference based on the name.

I think (assume) that A GFI is a single 2-socket 120V outlet with a built-in GFI device, with no provision to protect other outlets. It has only a single screw to connect to the high side of the power source. A GFCI looks identical on the front, but has a second high side screw to provide power to additional outlets, and comes with a few sticker labels to place on those other outlets to indicate that they are protected by the original GFCI. I may well be talking about something that was legal at the time I installed it 5 or 10 years ago.

My 50+ year old house would not have any GFI-type devices if I had not installed them myself... At the time it was built, only those outlets near water sources (kitchen, baths, utility room) were required to have grounded (3-prong) outlets; Wherever I could easily get a real ground connection, I have replaced many of those other (2-prong) outlets with grounded ones.

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#81
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Re: Lee Jourdan

03/20/2015 8:03 AM

Okay - that is not my field. You're into receptacles. As far as breakers go, I believe they are all GFCI. I assumed that is what Andy Germany wanted information on. So, it could be we are both correct here, just considering different devices.

Andy, you reading this? GFCI and Siemens on Google gets you your answer.

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#82
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Re: Lee Jourdan

03/20/2015 10:08 AM

Most breakers are not GFCI breakers. For a GFCI breaker the circuit return path must also flow through the breaker.

It is possible this wayward treadmill could be powered by the split phase US power provides to a dryer, or electric range outlet. This will mean that the treadmill then must be placed in either the laundry room or kitchen and that laundry or cooking cannot be performed at the same time as exercise. A completely new circuit could be run from the breaker panel if the panel has room. This can easily cost more than a replacement treadmill.

Sometimes "free" is the most expensive price to pay for something.

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#83
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Re: Lee Jourdan

03/20/2015 10:17 AM

No, no, no - I'm not implying all breakers are GFCI - you jumped into the end of a discussion - the discussion was on GFI versus GFCI, and the assumption was that the GFI was for a single device only and receptacles were brought into the fray. I still believe all breakers that are for interrupting faults are labeled GFCI - not GFI. If it ain't got that funny white pigtail - it's not GFCI.

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#84
In reply to #83

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/20/2015 10:39 AM

AFAIK There is no difference or standard convention for when the C should be included in the description. In other words a GFI and a GFCI are the exact same thing. A particular manufacturer may make a difference in their catalog. Probably to differentiate outlets and integral extension cord interrupters from panel breakers.

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#85
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Re: Lee Jourdan

03/20/2015 10:46 AM

Hey - that's what I thought, but I didn't want to start a fight, so I allowed that this may be a discussable terminology, as I didn't work with receptacles and the like.

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#86
In reply to #85

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/20/2015 11:20 AM

No fight involved!

The only place I have seen GFI or GFCI used is in kitchen/bath outlets, and around swimming pools. I've heard of whole-house units, but have never seen one.

I also have never seen a panel breaker with GFI, either home or industrial. Of course just because I have not seen them, does not mean they don't exist...

From Wikipedia:

In the United States and Canada, a residual-current device is most commonly known as a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI), Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) or an Appliance Leakage Current Interrupter (ALCI). In the United Kingdom, a residual-current devices is known as an RCD, and a combined RCD+MCB is known as an RCBO (Residual-current Circuit Breaker with Overcurrent protection). In Australia, they are sometimes known as Safety Switches or an RCD. An earth leakage circuit breaker (ELCB) may be a residual-current device, although an older type of voltage-operated earth leakage circuit breaker also exists.

A search for GFI turned up mostly unrelated stuff, so it appears that the acronym GFCI has replaced GFI.

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#87
In reply to #86

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/20/2015 11:37 AM

They are common in Europe and need to be installed in the breaker box.

30 Years ago 2 obligatory circuits:

A: 30 mA for the whole house

B: 3-5 mA for bath room and other sensitive areas.

They also exist in the US, I saw these under application A as main breaker/switch.

For the tread mill, however, no CFGI is needed when the metal accessible parts are properly grounded.

In gyms you often find rubber (or synthetic) floors, that also contribute to a double isolation situation.

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#90
In reply to #81

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/21/2015 3:27 PM

Thanks.

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#88
In reply to #80

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/20/2015 12:17 PM

Guess we're all human, huh?

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#89
In reply to #88

Re: Lee Jourdan

03/20/2015 3:19 PM

Well, at least most of us... I certainly am!

Like one CR4 poster (sorry, I don't remember who) wisely has as his tag line: "If you haven't made a mistake, you haven't made anything." I've made lots of both (mistakes and things).

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#5

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 11:54 AM

And now a message from our Treadmill Safety Poster Boy,......

Be Very Careful..... Treadmills Kills

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#7

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 12:00 PM

If not illiterate, as suspected, then opening the manual and reading it would be an excellent first step.

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#8
In reply to #7

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 12:11 PM

Wow, Slack! Did you come up with that brilliant advice all on your own?

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#24
In reply to #8

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 2:38 AM

JRaef gave you the answer at #17. There were other similar solutions.

So, some folk make light of your situation. So what?

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#25
In reply to #8

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 3:26 AM

How is it that you originally asked, "How do I use my 60Hz, 220-240 V treadmill here in the US?" and then turn around and post the data plate information later, that states 50Hz and then get pi$$y because you didn't list the actual data plate information in the beginning? Like a computer- results are only as good as the information put in. In which case your seeing the results of it.

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#46
In reply to #25

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 12:45 PM

Please don't take this personally. Ive seen the same error at least three times from at least three different people in this thread alone.

Doesn't anyone know the difference between your (something belongs to you or is associated with you) and you're (contraction of you are)?

I'm not an English teacher, but it really bugs me! "In which case your seeing the results of it." simply is NOT a complete sentence; there is no verb.

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#47
In reply to #46

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 2:48 PM

I'm guilty of that all the time.... I can say I blame autocorrect about 65% of the time and hast about 30%

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#48
In reply to #47

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 2:54 PM

What about a math check?

Or is it that 5% of the time you just don't care?????

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#55
In reply to #48

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 8:03 PM

5% is all mine

Reason..... There are many.... Pick one

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#59
In reply to #47

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/18/2015 1:24 AM

What's hast?

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#60
In reply to #59

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/18/2015 5:11 AM

I'll put that in my 5%..... Haste.....

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#53
In reply to #46

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 5:41 PM

Hate to say this, but few US citizens ever get it right!!!

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#28
In reply to #8

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 4:52 AM

You joined CR4 yesterday, and with your unfriendly and stupid manner, you have pissed off most of the people here already!!

WITHOUT EVEN REALLY TRYING IT WOULD SEEM!!!

With just 5 posts!!!

Your mistakes up front, not anyone else's.

Here we call a "Spade" a "F*****G SHOVEL!" Or Tell it how it is.

Call a Spade a Spade!!

It took me years to get that good at pissing off people on CR4!!!

You are now the NEW Master of "P.O." I have lost my Crown!

I think that if you continue as you have, you will NOT find this a very friendly place over a long period, time will tell.....

"Well , here's another nice mess you've gotten me into Stan !"

Confucius he say:- "you be long gone before twelve moons pass!"

I hope sincerely for you, that in situations where you are face to face with real "see-able" people, your "people skills" are many times better than you have demonstrated here in the first 24 hours or so of your membership!!

BTW:- PWSlack is a well informed, clever, well liked and very useful colleague here.

You are not!!

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#40
In reply to #28

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 9:43 AM

Unless you get a name you are not either!

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#41
In reply to #40

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 10:02 AM

He already admitted to that..... A spade calling a spade a spade

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#45
In reply to #41

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 12:21 PM

LOL - AGAIN?

You are in top form today.

Is the PO sorry, OP still around?

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#52
In reply to #28

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 3:49 PM

This seems QUITE unnecessary in this particular case, both the content and posting it anonymously.

Come on now, own up to who you are.

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#9

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 12:14 PM
  • It might actually help were its compatibility with the power supply that is available to be established beyond reasonable doubt. It might even say exactly how to ensure compatibility in a chapter in the user manual that was supplied with it - just a thought.
  • There is also reportedly an excellent telephone service in the US that can be used to contact the equipment manufacturer in the absence of a manual.

Other readers might have other suggestions.

<unsubscribes>

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#10

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 12:28 PM

You shipped a treadmill to the US.

The shipping costs were probably more than the price to just buy a new manual treadmill. The point of a tread mill is to exercise the body. What could your treadmill possibly do with that kilowatt of power but raise your electric bill while heating the room.

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#11
In reply to #10

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 12:36 PM

I lived in Asia. Purchased many things, one of which was a treadmill. My household goods were shipped back to the US for me. It cost me nothing to bring the treadmill back as well. I'm actually in contact with someone from this board that gave me a professional response, and is answering my question. The rest of you, who think you are witty, need to keep you day jobs.

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#12
In reply to #11

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 12:38 PM

Strung that tight, you will go far....

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#13

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 12:41 PM

Never mind.

I had something, but the now snotty attitude prompts me to pull it.

Good luck Lee.

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#14

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 1:15 PM

Technically, most mains switching power supplies, are inherently dual voltage switchable, but sometimes, certain electric products purposed for certain markets, have that capability deliberately disabled, for not very clear reasons. All it takes is restoring that functionality by a competent electronics repairman. No need to elaborate, but in most cases all that is needed is a switch and some short wiring to enable the so-called "doubling rectification". If your specific treadmill power supply is not of switching type, chances are, the main transformer is also switchable between 110 and 220V, but in all cases, if you don't already know what to look for, forget it, let some professional do it. S.M.

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#15

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 2:36 PM

You mean tread mills are electric?

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#18
In reply to #15

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 10:18 PM

Time to upgrade??

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#20

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/16/2015 10:30 PM

Most treadmills have a DC motor in it.

Just connect to L1 and L2

And the ground

Then step, go, run, step, stop

No smoke? You're good

(will work for 50 and/or 60 Hz as you mention in a later answer)

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#26
In reply to #20

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 3:37 AM

So put it on sale after the smoke came out?

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#33
In reply to #26

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 7:10 AM

Here in a resort that I supervise are more than 10 treadmills connected this way.

How do I know ?

Because I service these. And there are many different makes and models. Please look for a tread mill for fitness.

Not one for donkeys.

PS. Some electronics and/or programs make you control the training device. There is no way that the DC motor gets AC, unless something goes really bad, like burnt down

power supplies or (older models) transformers and speed controllers. Thanks for the OT.

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#34
In reply to #33

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 8:07 AM

was not me

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#51
In reply to #34

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 3:37 PM

Sorry, my mistaken guess.

I do apologize

D.

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#57
In reply to #51

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/18/2015 12:02 AM

Not necessary but taken!

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#29
In reply to #20

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 4:57 AM

Did you not mean a "Universal" motor? (Surely not a genuine DC motor?)

Uses AC or DC and has brushes?

Like most mains powered drills, kitchen mixing machines and many other machines around the house?

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#50
In reply to #29

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 3:29 PM

Hi Andy

A DC motor, and most of the time the type with permanent magnets (DC as in Direct Current)

A lot of people use these motors also to make wind generators.

There is a substantial difference between brush AC and brush DC motors in iron and commutator layout.

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#54
In reply to #50

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 5:47 PM

True, but most ignore that completely, for the sake of simplicity, I did not want to stress you......

As you were simply very unclear for me with regard to the DC motor comment of yours, which prompted my question....

Permanent magnet DC motors don't like AC much!!

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#37

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 9:23 AM

In addition to using the dryer outlet you could use a cooking range outlet as they are normally good for 50-60 amps.

If you have access to the power distribution panel a quick look would reveal what breakers are available and their ratings.

If the panel is not overloaded, you can purchase and install a new outlet & breaker specifically for supplying the treadmill.

Be sure to check on and follow all local code requirements/restrictions and get permission from the landlord if you are renting.

If you are not knowledgeable in installing an electrical circuit be sure to hire a competent, trustworthy, licensed electrical contractor or electrician.

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#44
In reply to #37

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 12:12 PM

So no cooking/Baking while walking?

What a Bummer!!!

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#62
In reply to #44

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/18/2015 9:48 AM

Yep, in addition to exercise, dieting is also recommended by the "experts".

Funny when I was younger I could eat anything in whatever amounts I wanted then I would just run and exercise it off.

Since I cannot run or exercise like I used to, I now have to be careful of what and how much I eat otherwise my getting into shape quickly approaches "round".

I really love to eat and dieting is something I detest so I am not at all being graceful with all this.

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#68
In reply to #37

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/18/2015 12:59 PM

First he needs to over come the 50/60 Hz thingy

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#72
In reply to #68

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/18/2015 8:21 PM

Why? that does not play a role, this device will be variable speed......Probably a VFD.

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#56

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/17/2015 8:32 PM

Nordictrack T 12.2 User manual netl28120-nordictrackt12.2treadmillICONHealth&Fitness manuals, Dutch,French,German,Italian,portugese,Spanish,UK. I did not know that UK was a language.

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#58
In reply to #56

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/18/2015 12:06 AM

Well, now you know!

I did not know that the portugese are lower in class either.

But then wait until you see USA, New Zealand, Australia.

Canada might be a nice addition too!

Have fun!

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#61

Re: 60Hz, 220-240 V Treadmill

03/18/2015 7:57 AM

Run 1/2 as fast.

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