Sounds like he's got a boat payment due. That can't be right.

For further information concerning regulations related to stratospheric ozone protection, please call the Stratospheric Ozone Information Hotline: 1-800-296-1996. Lists of certified equipment may be obtained by contacting The Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI) at 703-524-8800 and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) at 708-272-8800 ext. 42371.

This may, or may not help.

Good luck.

GA Double-L.....

"Sounds like he's got a boat payment due. That can't be right."

Naw, he's already bought the big 'ol boat - he needs this to pay for the fuel

Please, please get some more quotes/estimates....so that you can call his hand!

CEKM;

Thank you for your very detailed reply to my AC query. The leak shows up as an oil stain on the copper line and on the black wrapping tape. It appears to be on the larger of the two lines, so it must be the low pressure side. I will test the temperature of the two lines after a cycle is over. The AC still works, but perhaps not at full efficiency. It would be great if a wrench could fix this! Maybe it can, but I don't want to do it myself, since I have no training for AC units.

There is some kind of "reclaiming" requirement. On an EPA site I found a reference to contractors who do this for the EPA. No specific fees were mentioned, however.

Dan Woodward

Woodward DL,

See if you can locate exactly where the leak is, the oil stain is a good indicator of a leak, as the oil circulates with the refrigerant, and leaks out with the refrigerant.

Since you state that the tube is wrapped with tape, I assume the tape is gummy and soft, not a rubber foam insulation, this is s positive indication that the tube in question is the suction line, (Relatively) low pressure, and the cold vapor return to the compressor, if a significant quantity of the charge has escaped, the suction line may not feel very cool when operating.

The other smaller tube on the compressor is the discharge to the condenser, and not insulated, it gets hot when the compressor is operating (Providing sufficient refrigerant remains in the system).

Look for a large nut shaped coupling at the compressor body where the suction tube connects to the compressor, this coupling does experience thermal cycling, and may develop a leak, easily corrected by tightening slightly, perhaps an eighth to a quarter turn, the gasket/ seal in the coupling is usually Teflon, and can tolerate compression. if the suction tube is soldered to the compressor, disregard above information.

Also commonly a leak is found at the access fitting, look for a 1/4" flare tube fitting on the suction line tube or valve with a seal cap, can be a plastic or metal cap, often the seal cap leaks, and can be simply tightened. Under this cap (If fitted) is a scharader valve, fitting is used for attaching service pressure gauge, often schrader valve does not seat properly, and refrigerant leaks out through cap. Plastic cap should have "O" ring inside to seal fitting, sometimes the "O" ring is lost when the seal cap is removed.

Also a common leak occurs at the service valve (If fitted) seal cap, and is also remedied easily by simply tightening, if plastic or aluminum check for an "O" ring seal.

Do the leak check as described below.

Since the system is still cooling, the leak is not a serious leak, however capillary tube systems suffer a rapid degradation in performance as the charge leaks out.

You can do some leak checking yourself. With the compressor stopped, and time allowed for the pressures to equalize, about ten minutes, or best done when the compressor is cool. Mix a solution of common household liquid soap, about evenly mix with water, use a small paint brush, apply the solution to the exposed joints, use the brush to drip, or flow the solution on the joints being careful to minimize forming bubbles or foam by brushing on or agitating the solution when applying. Look for bubbles to grow at the joints, small leaks will take time to become apparent .Carefully peel back the lagging (Insulation on the copper line) if necessary.

If the leak is located in a soldered joint, then the refrigerant recovery, repair, evacuation, leak check, and recharge procedure is necessary.

The system likely does need some additional refrigerant, this needs to be done by a properly trained Refrigeration Mechanic, as the procedure for properly recharging a capillary tube system requires measurement and calculation of suction vapor superheat.

Replacement of the entire condensing unit is not likely to cure the problem if the leak is in the connecting tubing, IE a solder joint or connector.

Send me a photo of the suspect area if you can, send me a private message via this site, I will email you my email address.

Regards CEKM

he could purchase a new outdoor unit for $600.

Have him show you the leak with soap bubbles.