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Editor's Note: How do you weather the winter in Harlow, England?
Well, you build a bow or two, of course! In Part 1 of this two-part series,
CR4's own Del
the Cat shares some excerpts from his Bowyer's Diary.

Getting
Started
During December, I gathered some Maple and Birch logs from
fallen trees in the woodland near the helicopter pad. I sawed two logs and
split them into various staves and billets.
Before building a maple flat-section bow (bow #1), I made a
12" scale model first (see image below). It performed adequately with measurements of 1 lbs., 2
oz. at 4.75". But it broke when I sat on it! So I tested the remaining limb a
bit harder, and it took a lot of curve without excessive set.

For the full-sized bow, I went a bit wild with the axe and
then did the same with the disc sander. I blame this mainly on impatience and
cabin fever. There was quite a lot of string follow.
Next, I shortened it by a couple of inches to about 60" and
put a nice steam re-curve on each tip. The original plan was to start long and
maybe shorten it to come in past the knots.
Note that fifteen minutes of steaming is enough. Take care
not to put a twist onto the limb. And check the jig! I've re-steamed one
re-curve to remove some twist.
I was aiming for a 40 to 50-lb. finish, but it's more
likely to be 25 – 30 lbs. If the bow is promising enough, I may sinew-back it.
It's really a try-out for the timber.
Also, I found a nice
article on the Web about the limb taper of flat limbs, with a graphical method
of calculation. It's by Clarence N. Hickman, the father of Scientific Archery.
Unfortunately, though, the article is on one of these strange sites where you
can look at the article, but neither copy it nor link to it properly. So, I
can't share it here.
January
10
Today, I made a proper string. It draws 25 lbs. at 28" and
feels nice and smooth. The string follow is no worse. In fact, it probably
wouldn't have been much worse at 40 lbs. if I'd worked it more slowly and let
the wood dry more. It was V asymmetric when I first put on the string. This
seemed odd; really, there's no explanation. The stave was always slightly
asymmetric. The re-curves are fairly static.
Now I can't decide whether it's worth backing with PVA and
glass. I don't think it's worth sinew backing.
At least this has given me a feel for the timber. In the
end, I decided to back it with glass and PVA. It was a quick job. Now I'm
drying it on a radiator that doesn't get too hot (38 C).
It will be interesting to see how far it shoots an arrow.
143 yards! The backing hasn't really increased the draw weight, maybe a couple
of pounds. I may give it a second layer sometime.
Editor's Note: The
second of this two-part series will run next week. In the meantime, check out this video of Del's Chinese repeating crossbow. It was taken with the camera that
Mrs. Cat and Del
gave each another for Christmas.
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