Mini Forge for Medieval-Style Arrowheads

Good luck, Del!

Show us the gloves you'll be wearing...

Del,

This might be more effort than you wanted for your arrows, but I researched something similar a little while ago. I have always wanted to be able to cast aluminum and brass. I found a great book on building a compact electric shop furnace at http://www.lindsaybks.com (same web site as #58). This book was "Li'l Bertha, A Compact Electric Resistance Shop Furnace" by David J. Gingery. It is simple and basic, but the furnace looks very useful and very easy to build to whatever size is desired.

Dave used galvanized sheet metal from a roofing supply store and castable refractory cement for the furnace body. He used heating element wire and an electric stove control to set the temperature. With nichrome wire the furnace is good up to 1800F (cast aluminum). With Kanthal wire the furnace is good up to 2300F (cast brass). You will tend to have better control than with a fuel that you burn, and on the days you don't use it the furnace is 100% safe (no gas to leak).

If I recall correctly Omega in both the US and England had thermocouples good for at least melting aluminum, I'm not sure about brass. You would need a better control than a stove control to use a thermocouple, but temperature control and temperature display would be very nice.

Heating elements from an old stove are pretty easy to find. I was looking at http://www.resistancewire.com to wind my own and install them in a pocket in the furnace wall.

Bruce

Just be careful of the zinc fumes,...Dave used galvanized sheet metal..., it is still killing my dad.

Very good warning. I was about to say "not a problem with these plans", but after double checking I'll just say "maybe not a problem with these plans.

All of the galvanized steel is on the outside only. The inner surfaces are refractory cement several inches thick. Page 31 of the book states that even after running for 10 hours a piece of dry paper will not char or catch fire if placed on the outside of the furnace. But, it does state that the outside will be over 200F. I don't know if 200F (plus a little) puts us in the zinc fumes danger range. My guess is "not".

You can't see the pictures in the book, but the furnace base, circular body and top are separate parts. If a tall furnace is desired the sides can be made in two stackable parts. If there are any leaks or offset furnace parts then there could be hot spots. I guess I'll ride the fence on this one. If everything goes OK then there is probably not a problem. But, if I use another material then I won't have to worry about it.

Thanks for the warning.

Was on a ship that was being scrapped and was driven to deck by fumes from cutting torch to galvanized pipe. A crawl through a heavily populated cow pasture would be pleasant in comparison.

Hey Del, you need a simple gas forge. I have built many of these over the years for farriers and for other blacksmiths to use on the road. They are very easily made. Start with a small burner like the ones that come on propane fish fryers or the turkey fryers that are sold in all the Lowe's, Home Depots type stores in the USA. You can also build a burner from 1/2" pipe as long as you make a venturi/air damper to pull in and control the air mix with the gas. Next build a light frame from angle iron to make a small 12" x 12" x 12" box with stacked 2600 degree fire brick or ceramic wool and leave the front side open. Make a hole in the bottom to mount your burner to. Be sure to leave a little gap between the burner and the bottom of the box to prevent over heating the burner. If you want to you can also fabricate a door of fire brick but if you do you will need a vent hole if the door seals off to tight. The trick to these small forges is not as much the burner output but how well you hold the heat that it puts out in one place.

I had a play...still wearing my decent shirt and trousers of course...no gloves.
Just stacked the bricks up in various configurations, with the MAPP torch going into it, it got hot enough to forge the end of a 1/4" rod...
I could see the problem, if you close it up to retain the heat, the gas flame chokes, if you open it up too much the heat escapes... an extra burst with a second (propane) torch gave it a nice boost, bright yellow-not-quite-white heat along about an inch.
Certainly good enough for hardening/tempering, I think I'd like a tad more heat for forgeing (an anvil would help too).
I can buy an 11.5kg anvil for £40... hmmm does that sound heavy enough and cheap enough?
I'll play some more tomorrow...
Mrs Cat told me to stop banging as my Son was giving a guitar lesson!
Del

PW, Hay Budden, Trenton, Lakeside (HB sold under a different name), Fisher Norris, MouseHole

http://www.anvilbrand.com/

or a piece of R/R rail about the length of your forearm

Northern Tools do a 25kg anvil for £63 or a 7kg one for £26, both plus delivery.

Oooh cheers,
That 7kg one looks nice...better shape that the machine mart one which doesn't have a very pointy bick, good price too.
How heavy do you guys think I need? (obviously heavier is better, what is a reasonable minimum? What would Willie Coyotte use to drop on Roadrunner?)
Del

Del, I have made many small anvils from a piece of used large gage railroad track. I am not sure if you have access to used RR track put you can layout an anvil shape and cut it out with an oxy acetylene torch pretty easy. I would make the point on one end and then grind or mill the back side flat enough to forge on. if you are careful you can make a very nice looking and useful anvil this way. I have 2, 150 lb. anvils in my shop and a coal forge to heat with. Lately I have been using my glassblowing glory hole furnace to heat with because it gets hot so quick and when I am done I simply turn off the propane. My glory hole furnace is basically a 12" ID x 18" deep hole made from fire brick and ceramic wool. The trick to its heat is a 4" ceramic burner and a Ransome venturi along with several inches of insulation. If you want to invest in a furnace like this please see http://www.joppaglass.com/ Dudley Giberson invented and patented these burners Giberson Ceramic Burner Head and they work quite well.

Response #96 is on the right track. Get a copy of Wayne Goddard's book, "The Fifty Dollar Knife Shop", published by Krause Publications. He has a section showing how to use soft fire bricks and a Bernzomatic propane torch (about $30 USD) to build a small portable forge suitable for forging knife blades. Should work fine for arrowheads too. Basically you wire four bricks together and drill a hole in the side for the torch flame to enter and then drill out an oval cavity in the long dimension to accept the blade.

Broken cast iron baths are quite useful for making all sorts of things, Del.

This was my firebrick arrangement, easy enough to aim a second torch in there, and a 'cunningly designed' _{<cough splutter>} regulator gap at the rear.

I've ordered an 24 lb anvil...Lets hope the postman doesn't hand it to Mrs Cat.

Del

I've ordered an 24 lb anvil ...Lets hope the postman doesn't hand it to Mrs Cat.

Well, here's one she should be able to handle:

... I've just been for a walk over to a car repair works and blagged myself a brake drum...nice big one of a Taxi Cab.(or Sherbet if you are a Cocney.... sherbet dab,= cab)

I know I've got a bag of coke somewhere at home.
So I can play at building a longer term mini forge, whilst playing with the gas in the mean time.
Must look out for an old cooker hood fan now.
Del

<....Must look out for an old cooker hood fan now.....>

How soon is it needed? There's one coming out from the bothy to the local amenity site (a.k.a. "dump") in the next 2 months. Any use? Could be posted, perhaps?

Well, I finally looked up what the heck a "bothy" is.

Two countries, separated by a common language.

milo

Ooooh cheers.
If the fan still works I'll certainly have it off you (if I havn't found one by then) I could probably get UPS to pick it up (maybe not if the boss is about) or you could post it and I could send you a cheque to cover the postage.
Tip us the wink when it's coming out .
How soon is it needed?
Now there's a question, I have n+1 projects on the go, so it's fairly flexible...there's no real urgency other than my natural catly impatience to do things now..wow...wrow...mwroooowooow
I've got a few sacks of junk to go to the tip, so maybe I'll spot one there, if I can avoid the fascist guards attendants.
Del

I bought a small squirrel cage Dayton brand blower for my coal forge with a speed control for about 50-70 bucks. You will need the speed control if you plan on using coal or any other fuel forced air furnace. When I first started fooling with coke and coal it didn't take me long to realize that it needs to be metallurgical coal to be of much use. The first coal I tried was some I picked up from a boiler coal pile and it burned to quick and gave off tons of nasty smoke and just didn't seem to get hot enough. I next got my hands on some coke that is used in fire barrels to keep piping from freezing in the winter and it did only a little bit better. I finally bought 150 lbs. of real metallurgical coal from a blacksmith supplier and it was amazing how well it worked. One of the reasons I like gas forges so well is that you don't have to fool with the air blower and it gets hot quick and when I am done I just turn the gas off. Most of my smithing projects are small and I can be finished with the gas forge in less time than it takes me to get a proper fire built on my coal forge.

I'm in dither mode now....
I've used household coke before and it was ok (we are in a smokeless zone so can't burn coal domestically, but open fires are fairly rare now... when we first moved to Harlow there was a coal merchant just down the road...)

I'll attack the forge from both gas and coal fronts and see what wins in the end

GA pipewelder. Helpful comments about coal and coke from someone who has real credibility born of experience.

BTW I got the following reply to a recent inquiry from a source in the USA:

From: Ed Avolio, owner, GrayStar® Products, makers of "L Brand"® ForgeCoke®, 1155 Settles Pointe, Suwanee, GA 30024-4270. 678-360-3521. *Trademark Our minimum order is 10-50 LB bags,

Thanks for your interest in "L Brand"®. For more information , visit our website at www.Blacksmithcoke.com.

By copy of this e-mail, James Cox, Texas Farrier Supply, 603 S New Hope Rd, Kennedale, TX, 76060 817-478-6105, Theanvilman@sbcglobal.net will quote you on 2-50 LB bags.

I still don't agree that you need a motor speed control. Besides, unless the speed control is a pretty high quality piece with feedback control it can change speed by itself especially at low speeds after you've set it. IMHO it's better to control the air flow directly rather than the motor speed. Somewhere back in this thread I commented on ways to do that.

Ed, thanks for the comment and the GA nomination and the very informative posts. I guess you don't have to have a speed control as long as you can use some sort of a damper valve to regulate the air flow. I make a good many small parts on my forge. For example instead of buying a pair of hot glass shears for 125.00 I made mine from an old coil spring. The coil spring had plenty of carbon so I could harden the blade edges pretty good. I did not need a large volume of air so it was nice to be able to adjust the speed way down to give a very slow heat of the piece. Now on the other hand if I was going to forge sharpen a large blade or work any other large piece I would usually crank the motor speed way up to give as much air and fast heat as I could.

Del, you should probably check you local junk yard for a coil or leaf spring to make your points from. These are usually made from very tough steel that will heat treat well. The coil spring I use is 3/4" OD bar and is coiled up on about a 4" overall OD with probably 9 layers. I have made several small blades and other items from it and I am just getting into the second coil. By the time I cut and straighten it, and hammer it down to say 1/4" thickness I have allot of material to work with. You may want to get a smaller bar OD spring so a smaller forge could handle it but I am sure most junk yards have plenty of these to choose from. I would think for an arrowhead you would only want to harden the edge of the blade and keep the rest fairly soft so it would not break easily when it strikes something. Another source of material would be an old file, these will make excellent knife blades but unless you do a good heat treat and anneal a file may be to brittle for your arrowheads. I have heard also that railroad spikes have enough carbon to get a decent harden but I do not know this for a fact. The best way is to get your forge going and experiment with different materials by heating a small sample to about 1400 F and quenching in water, then use a punch or a file to check and see if it is any harder than the original. One thing I should warn you about though is that beating on hot iron is very addicting and if you are not careful you end up with a sore elbow and a nasty scrap pile. Have fun.

Cheers, This thread is just full of good info and ideas.
I've already got sore elbows from golf and archery
The little anvil arrived today, I reckon it should be ok for small stuff...I'm on the look out for a nice piece of tree stump to stand it on.
I've nearly finished refurbishing the crossbow, so I'm keen to press on with making some heads.
Mind the faschia and guttering at the front of the house needs replacing and then there's the...
Nah, that can all wait...I'll play a few holes of golf and then see if I can get some bar hot enough to whack..
Must put some beer in the fridge first... gotta get the priorities right.
Del

Del, I think the small anvil will work great for what you are doing. I have in the past hammered out designer curtain rod sets with a heating tip on an oxy acetylene torch as a forge and a chunk of heavy plate steel as an anvil. I have also tried the bar-b Que pit forge as well but found it be a very slow way to do things. You are defiantly on the right track with the fire brick to help keep the heat in one place. I have been remodeling a master bed and bath for close to four years now. I will get going on it and then have to stop for some other "important task" at my shop. The honey-do list just keeps on growing but I tend to do the important(fun) things first (anything to do with glass blowing, scuba diving and of course beating on hot iron) You may find working hot iron allot harder than it seems at first. Smithing is like all other acquired skills in that they all take one main ingredient: tons of practice to learn. Good luck and keep us informed of your progress.

Did you say you were remodeling your

Bath?

Do we have the thread for you:

http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/13355#comment396871

A nice shutter across the intake of the blower does quite nicely to control the air, you could even hook it up to a foot pedal for no handed operation...

Hi Ed, I agree controlling the air is better than using a rheostat to try to control the flow. I found my blower motor didn't like being restricted and over heated. So I vented it like a waste gate on a turbo an it was very controllable. Now I use a hand crank blower of my grandfathers.

As for blacksmith coal vs propane or natural gas, the last part I made was 1¼ inch (not quite 3cm for the metrics) on the smallest dimension. Annealing it, hardening and then deep tempering would have taken way to much propane. (I could have done it in my electric furnace but not near as fun) I set it on a piece of 1/8 inch steel and slowly heated it to a straw temper just turning purple. Close to 40 minutes. So far the vibration of the one inch pneumatic hammer has yet to show any use. The MIG welded Tee handle on the grade 5 bolt threaded into my part had to be redesigned after it snapped the weld a part.

Brad

Reply #96 is on the right track. If you can get a copy of Wayne Goddard's book, "The $50 Knife Shop", published by Krause Publications, you can see a design for a small low-cost propane forge suitable for forging knife blades. It uses one soft fire brick with one hole (about 1 inch dia.)in the large side for a Bernzomatic propane torch and and oval-shaped hole (about 1.5 inch by 0.5 inch) the length of the brick. You can wrap the bick with wire or cover it in sheetmetal to make it more durable. The back of the long hole is blocked with a piece of hard firebrick. Another soft fire brick with an oval hole can be added for longer pieces of steel for forging. The book is a good general reference for knife making.

I've already forged some new improved nails for fixing a piece onto my crossbow stock, vast improvement on the old ones...nice and chunky (technical term)...blog due shortly .
I think I'll need plenty of practice before I'm upto arrowheads tho'
Del

Del,

Once you get the forge sorted, you might want to consider making a spring-swage to get your blanks 80-90% to how you want to finish them up.

This will help with your consistancy for finishing.

Regards,
Sapper

Ah...if only I knew what a spring-swage was ... .
I've made a reasonable start on an arrow head, I got some nice square bar and made a pathetic first attempt, then I found avideo of a guy forging stuff on YouTube... excellent, I could immediately see I needed a bigger hammer.
I got a nice 40 oz ball pein one for a tenner. I've worked a nice flat end onto the bar which will wrap around to form the socket for the shaft.
It'll be a dy or so before I get a chance to finish it... I need to make a mandrel to wrap it around too.
It's getting through a lot of gas, but if I can just make one arrow head for now I'll be a happy cat, I can then make a coal forge at my leisure.
Del

A swage is essentially like a 2 part steel mold.

The parts are held together by a spring and you pull them apart using the handles.

In use, the hot steel is put into the swage and you hammer the swage, effectively forging close to, or to, your finished shape. It is then a quick job to finish off, heat treat etc.

Used when you have a lot of repetitive work.

Sorry, I have no idea how to make one easily.

I think I know how this might work. But some blacksmith with a real experience doing this please comment here.

You take two flat blocks and hinge them together so their faces are in contact. You also make an arrowhead to the rough oversize shape you think is right and mount it on a handle. You are going to heat the two blocks to forging heat and lay them open on the anvil. Place the cold arrow head form on one block, close the hinge over the top and hammer the two blocks around the arrow form. You may need some coating on the arrow form to keep it from sticking. It may take more than one step.

Does this sound practical?

Ed Weldon

I see...I think I'd need the bigger forge, bigger anvil upgrade.
Jeez this could get worse than microsoft.. although I'm already finding I have far superior reliability, and I think even a coke forge will boot up quicker than MS whatever...
Del

You are going in the right direction.

A coke forge, as used by many blacksmiths, even today, is better for the following reasons (there could be more!):-

1) Little to no smoke

2) Hotter and the heat is over a larger area that can be "formed" to fit the job....

3) Cheaper to run than a gas version

4) when the air is stopped between jobs, coke consumption is minimal

The blacksmiths are not stupid!!! They know what is needed.....

This is a spring swage for putting a groove down the center of square stock. The flat stock extends to the right in a long U shape that makes the handle. Some have a tapered square post on the back of the bottom mold to mount it in the hardy hole in the anvil. This allows one person to heat and form complex shapes repeatedly. This one is like a sliding die, others form leaves, flowers, geometric shapes etc.

Like any new skill it takes practice to get good. Start simple and progress.

Brad

What are the blocks made out of?

Garthh,

Blocks are usually made of a tough steel, medium carbon. Rail head makes good long lasting swages.

For Hand forging (Up to a sledge hammer) almost any steel will do.

Under a power hammer (air, spring etc) you need to take a little more care with selection as mechanical hammers are a lot harder on the swages.

Regards,
Sapper.

I started back blowing glass Christmas ornaments and small paper weights to get stocked up for a craft show last night. As I was standing there in front of my glory hole furnace re-heating a piece I couldn't help to think of Del's little furnace thing. The reheat furnace is probably the best little forge I ever built and It wasn't meant for heating iron at all. I built it from scrap fire brick, Kao wool, and a box of ram 90 plastic refractory. I have about 350.00 in the ceramic propane burner but the rest was mainly stuff from around my shop. The furnace is 12" OD 16" deep and has two " "doughnut" shaped doors with different size holes in each so that I can save heat escaping when I am making smaller pieces but if needed open both doors for bigger pieces. I use high pressure propane (5-30 PSI) with a air gas mixing venturi and a needle valve for control but all this could be made very easily from a pipe tee and a few fittings and nipples. I measured the heat of the inside of this furnace with a pyrometer last night after 45 minutes of warm up it was up tp 1900 degrees F. I was thinking that you could build a smaller version of this furnace really easy. I would use a large paint or coffee can as a mold and line it with about 1" of Kao wool or castable refractory. Put a propane torch up to a hole on the side of it and fashion a one inch or so lip door on the front of it for a heat retaining ring and it should work very well. I have a propane torch with a heating head and a handle that when pressed it makes a fairly large aggressive (1 1/2") OD flame. This torch uses propane only but puts out a ton of heat. A torch of this fashion should be plenty to power a small forge and be fairly efficient as well. I forget the name of the torch but it is made by one of the big welding supply companies.

Cheers...If only I didn't have to go to work, I'd play at making up stuff like that all day...It sounds like it's the biz.

Glass blowing sound interesting too...oh don't get me excited...
Too many projects, not enough time.
BTW The crossbow refurb blog is out tomorrow.
I did forge some nails for it, and I've started on an arrow head.
Del

Well I've made one...(You proper blacksmiths guys may wish to look away, now) I had a bit of help from Mr Anglegrinder and a file too.
I learned a good bit and considering I have virtually no smithing tools I'm fairly happy with the result.
It used a whole gas cylinder, so, at £10 a go it's not a long term solution.

It looks about right for the crossbow, I'll make a nice chunky bolt and video it being cocked and shot.
I was a bit surprized it only weights about 1½oz I was expecting nearer 2...
Del

You go, Dell!

Damned handsome to my eye!

Ta,
I've put it on a nice fat shaft, it's lookin' good.
I might find a way of fabricating quick easy ones for shooting (that means loosing), maybe weld a bit of rod into a short piece of tube, and I'll save this one for looking at or special demo's.

Del

Very nice Del! You are doing very well IMHO. I am sure most modern black smiths know Mr. angle grinder. I like to do things the old fashioned way in some cases when I have the time but I am not against using the "modern" tools in my shop when it speeds things up or to make a really difficult job allot easier. I would like to think that most of the old time blacksmiths would have loved to had a drill press, band saw or angle grinder to help them through jobs. I have read through some old blacksmith journals from around the 1890's era and they did not get paid very well for their trouble and had to beat allot of iron just to put food on the table in most cases. I had a customer once that brought in these huge bush hog blades ( 3/4" thick x 6" wide x 24" long) and want me to forge sharpen instead of grinding them. He was insistent about how much longer the blades would last if the edges were hammered out. Of course just because of the fact that hammering does not remove material it would be better if he could find someone (or be willing to pay someone) to beat on those blades that long. I finally agreed to do it for him and we settled on a price. It probably took me about 3 times as long as I had figured to get a decent edge on those things and I really lost my tail on that job. The old man was so happy when he came back to pick up the blades I just didn't have the heart to charge him extra although I did tell him that those were my last set of forge sharpened bush hog blades.

Nice story I'll bet he loved those blades tho'.
I reckon when we go that extra mile the karma comes back sometime.
One day St Peter will probably get you helping out with the hinges on those Pearly Gates.
Del

Nice one, Del! It has a very authentic look I think.. very medieval. Spot on. Have you given it a name yet?

Sooooo!

When one of us hears from Del, "Did you get my point?".

DUCK GUYS AS QUICK AS YOU CAN!!!!!

Del,

Nice job...Even old style blacksmiths used Mr Grinder....ever noticed the sandstone wheels around the smithy??

If you have an older file or are willing to sacrifice one to the smithy...try filing the job while it is hot (Dull Cherry Red) you'll be suprised by the results.

Rather than wrapping the steel for the shaft, find a piece of steel rod, grind it until it is the shape of the end of an arrow shaft...Heat until cherry red and quench in water..

For your next arrow head, before you start on the bodkin, drive the punch into the end of the hot steel, this will give you a perfect fit to the shaft. Try to limit the heated area to just the section you want to shape.

Now start shaping the bodkin, holding the neck, cool the punched section and then work on the business end...

I think you will like the results..

Regards,
Sapper.

Cheers, some nice tips to try. (Once I get a little coke forge going)
Del

Heck, If I were closer to you I would just build you a forge and send it on. I have a ton of brick and refractory laying around my shop that will probably go bad before I use it all. That Ram 90 refractory is so tough that once you get something built it usually lasts forever. The problem is that it has a shelf life of about 2 years and after that it gets to where it takes forever to harden and dry out. I get it free as leftovers from the boiler repairs on our yearly outage at the paper mill so I don't mind sharing with anyone who needs it. The soft fire brick on the other hand is not so durable but a very good insulator and I try to use it behind the ram 90. How do you plan on attaching your points to the shaft? I would assume by wrapping some sort of material like leather around the two tangs you forged on the bottom of the point and then maybe a glue of some sort?

The pics don't show it clearly, that's not 2 tangs, it's one flattened piece which is wrapped around to form a socket, I've fitted it onto a shaft already.
I whittled the shaft to a rough point, heated the arrow head up and pushe d the shaft in to burn it to the right shape, then took it out cleaned it upo and refitted it with a few sharp taps from a hammer.
It feels pretty solid, looks good too, I'll post some pics on the bow blog.
Del

Hi Del,

the most primitive - but good working - forge I saw (in southern Maroc near Essauira)

was a 1" by 10" trench scraped into natural ground of dry clay 1" deep and heated with 2 or 3 pieces of charcoal and a hand-driven blower.

This was used to heat old car's scrap (axles and more) up to the diameter that would fit into the trench, then to forge into any shape of household items and agricultural tools.

With your delicate arrowheads it would be most important to first work the thicker parts and then thin out the sleeve of the arrow-head to shaft transition.

You should prepare some tooling - not only hammer and anvil!?

RHABE

You should prepare some tooling - not only hammer and anvil!?.
Indeed, but it was more of an exercise to see if I could do it. I've sort of moved onto other projects...
The forge will be there on the back burner (tee hee)...so many projects, so little time. _{(dunno when fate will snatch us away from this playground)}
Del

Del,

There is a marvellous book from the US called "Modern Blacksmithing" by a chap called Weygers it is actually 3 books in one. I borrowed a copy from the library and the book is available online for about $24 delivered ex US.

Barbeque fuel (compressed charcoal) is a great fuel.

I hope that this is not considered Off Topic by anyone, I apologize if anyone does but watching the TV a few days ago, they were showing a blacksmith (here in Germany) who makes beautiful Damascus sheath knives for Hunters and the like. A cheap one was over €1000......

What I personally found very interesting was that he bought the Damascus steel by the meter. That is, he did not make it himself!!!!! The price was high, I don't remember exactly what he paid, but he could make 4 to 6 knives from one piece........

Shall I research further for anyone, or am I making a fuss about something that you are all already aware of?

This appears to be a company that deals in such steel called Manfred Sachse. Here is the address, postcode and the name of the product in German also:-

Andy,

Many knife makers, custom or batch run, buy in the steel rather than all the messing around with the forging of the blades, and this historically has been the case most of the time.

A Blacksmith will make the billets to order and the Knifesmith will finish the blank, as he\she may not have the skills of a blacksmith, focusing on the actual finish and hardware of the knife.

To this day, the Japanese Swordsmiths will forge the blade and get other specialists to polish the blade, make the hilt and scabbard.

Good catch though.

Regards,
Sapper.

HI A.G.

http://www.damaszenerschmiede.de/

Denig did reintroduce this beautiful artwork.

I am not sure if he is still producing, but he will know nearly everybody in this art.

There is a regular festivity in September every year where skilled smiths meet and discuss and wonderful pieces are exhibited.

RHABE