Caption This for 3/4/16

I get paid by the hour....frontwards backwards, I don't care if it takes a day a week or a month.... @#$ idiots

They said it is possible, but only time will tell.

I guess it could be worse: it's only flat at the bottom.

Doing good. Already have the top half inflated.

I can hear him singing, I think he's singing the song "High Hopes."

"Just what makes that ant think he'll move a rubber tree plant...."

(hey - where is the symbol for musical notes???)

♪ ♫

Alt + (numeric pad)13

Alt + (numeric pad)14

Thanks - that is news to me. Never tried to do notes before.

At age 45, Lyn saw this as a fine project leading into retirement.

The overtime pay should just about cover the chiropractic bill.

...3726....3727....3728....

That was good, Rich

they had to fire Stone. Just another bridge stone will have to cross.

Punny. I like it.

Whatta ya mean Linda Lovelace is better at this?

Tom Brady practices for another, BIGGER playoff game.

Vee ahr going to pomp him op!"

When I get done with this, I'll be re-tired.

1 more week to go and then I retire.

You guys go on ahead, I'm going to be.....a little while here......

Learn from me to avoid Global Warming to reduce green house gases.

DHAYANANDHAN.S

Let's see, overtime, supper money...I wonder if I'll get meal money to cover breakfast?

If it was good enough for my father and his father before him, it'll do me.

Worlds smallest man considers a change of career

I was going to say, "it's all downhill from here".

The boss warned me not to over pressure the Tyre, dangerous for my eardrums.....

Optimism.

A visual representation!

I wonder what Union he belongs to?

As usual, the Foreman and the other Laborers are sitting in the pickup drinking coffee and smoking Jays.

...phew!....I'm tired already.....

An engineer first Time and Motion Study in progress...

It really sucks being the new guy on the team...

And I thought it would blow.

In either case, it's an ill wind...

CAUTION! DO NOT OVERINFLATE!

Give me just a minute..... I've got this!

Here you see a card holding tire inflator union worker local 337 working hard. Next you'll see the card carrying tire pressure inspector local 984 checking the pressure

Did they file an EPA report about the Carbon Footprint from all that exhaled air polluting the world? And the impact upon the global warming effects from the heat of the pump? What about the recycling plans for the tire? Will they make chips for playgrounds around the world to compensate for the cutting and harvesting of the rubber sap for the tires? Were any child labor laws violated in the process? Were the profits from the sale of tires kept off-shore to avoid corporate taxes? Did they provide proper toilet facilities on site for the guy pumping up the tires? Did he get an OSHA approved break and paternity leave when his children were born or family members were sick? Is the effort applied on the pump within the limits of OSHA labor laws, and was he wearing and using ergonomically appropriate tools and safety equipment? Has he been background-checked for proper citizenship and worker certification for using an air pump? Was the construction equipment properly marked and were safety cones placed at proper intervals around the stranded machine? Were ther proper and UP_TO_DATE posters on the walls of the break room and are the owners licensed to operate within the municipalities involved? Inquiring minds want to know!

Just a sec..... Let me give you some advice my granpa told me... He said, "Come over here and pull my finger."

Tom: "Why are you doing that, Phil?"

Phil: " I misunderstood my boss, I thought he asked me if I was tired, and I said yes"

Reminds me of every time I change tires for Summer or Winter. The tires always lose a few pounds and I just top them off. It seems like a lot of work at the time but it's faster than trying to find an air station anymore. And who couldn't use a little more exercise?

And I'm always topping of the tires on my road bike. The skinny tires seem to lose air quickly. My fat tire Schwinn only needs air every six months.

That's because you are not changing to summer air and then winter air. You need to ecacuate all of the summer air out before filling with the winter air.

LOL!!!

Obvious when you think about it, like summer and winter diesel!!

When I'm changing tires I'm using either Spring air or Fall air. The trick is to get them to last through Summer or Winter.

I've also wondered how much air pressure I lose when I take my bike out of a warm basement into a cold Winter day.

One time on a hot Summer day we jumped into a cold river with fully inflated air mattresses. They deflated by about half.

That's right, the plastic softens and stretches easily when it gets hot (like in direct sunlight). Hot air expands as well and the air bed swells up a lot

The air bed shrinks back when it cools in the cold water.

....but everyone knows this...

Your bike tyre poses an interesting question. Not so much about how much pressure you lose in the cold, but what is the increase in pressure in the tyre when you sit on the bike.

Assuming a soft tyre with enough pressure not to sit on the rim, the pressure on the area of the 'flat' bit must equal the total weight. The 'flat' bit increases in area when you sit on it, but also reduces the volume, thus to increase the pressure to help accommodate the weight

Does that mean the increase in pressure is the same as if starting with a harder tyre with a smaller area that doesn't flatten as much.

I can't answer this myself because I don't know much much about tyres...

.....except to say the chap in the OP pic got the sack! He reported to the boss that there was something wrong with his pump, it was making a funny noise. "It goes phisssst, phissst, phissst as I pump"

"How often?" asks the boss. "About 25 times a minute"

"You're fired" "Why?" "It should be going phist, phist, phist, 50 times a minute"

As an aside, although I cannot believe it would happen on a pushbike of any sort, driving cars/trucks and the like with too little pressure in a tyre(s) or too much load, brings an interesting problem with it, that many people "experience" daily around the world.....

That is with low pressure or too high a load for the pressure, the tyre has a large flat area where it meets the road causing flexing. This flexing of the tread and sidewall, causes the tyre to seriously heat up. The air still inside also gets very hot and expands quite dramatically, eventually bursting the tyre....the rubber being at that point, probably halfway to being a liquid again.

Many people believe that only over pressure can explode a tyre and tend to have too low a pressure, causing the very problems they want to avoid!!

Which is why my car runs with the maximum loaded tyre pressure. It seriously reduces tyre heating ALL the time, my tyres, even with high speed driving (there are roads with NO limits here!), they only get to about 35°C.....it also saves me going to get them topped up before a heavy load is taken onboard.

Also tyre wear is seriously reduced, giving a far longer than average tyre life!!

This brings up some questions I've had for a while about tires and their pressure.

Say my car tires say max pressure of 35 lbs at whatever load they have on the sidewall. What pressure is actually recommended for everyday driving. My tire dealer says I should keep around 25 lbs in the tire because thats what the door sticker that was put on the door when it was built says for best handling and performance. But these aren't original tires. They are the same size but different brand.
Is the load on the sidewall what the average car would weigh with the average amount of stuff people carry everyday or is that max load the car could hold. I've always assumed it was the average everyday weight.
Should I be putting more pressure in the tires since they say max 35. Should I put about 30-32 in them for pressure leeway or 35 and assume their is leeway built into that max pressure. Or do I follow my dealers advice and leave at 25 because thats what the car maker recommends and only add the higher pressure what hauling a heavier than average load.
This also goes for my truck tires. They have max of 80 lbs but they told me to keep them at 65 unless hauling a load.

The question that I left open is of course comfort. With running the tyres at the maximum load pressures (mine are different front to back), does make the "springing" harder. But after a week or so, it becomes normal.....

(Let me say that my back will not allow me to race a go kart anymore, too many injuries and one operation tell a tale! But no problems with the higher pressures.....)

You have to make your own decisions in such matters.

I have been using the max pressure for so many years, probably since the 60's, I don't remember exactly when....

In all the cars I have owned and or driven, other that mentioned above about comfort, I have noticed nothing negative...

I have never had wear in the middle of the tyre tread as all "good" car books show!!

My impression is that it improves mileage slightly and tyre life.

I also "feel" that steering "response" is improved, and when I had no power steering years ago, it reduces the load of the steering into your arms by huge amounts.

I also believe that braking performance is also better and directionality of the vehicle under heavy braking....but those are all my impressions only.....no facts.....

As with anything, overdoing it is NOT a good idea.....so I stay within the limits set by the car manufacturer. Also, if the tyre is allowed for my car, then it has to fit in with that data as well.....

Of course, if you fit different types and or sizes, you are on your own, I don't!!

I think you are right, I tend to run at max recommended pressure or a little over. Then check for increased wear in he middle.

Tyre pressures for a fully-laden car, are usually higher than for an empty car, but for practical reasons, I know of nobody who let tyres down when they unload the car - or pump them up when loading.

It's my logic, but if tyres are 'safe' at higher pressure when loaded, it must also be safe when empty.

Soft tyres increase drag, (try pushing a car with flat tyres!), like slightly going up hill, or through soft sand, and uses more fuel. It heats the tyre walls as you say.

I did hear of an incidence when a car with 'soft' tyres lost control when cornering violently when the front tyres rolled off their rims.

There is not a lot to be said for under-inflated tyres.

Unless others know better!

I have to fully agree with you on all points!!

"Tyre pressures for a fully-laden car, are usually higher than for an empty car, but for practical reasons, I know of nobody who let tyres down when they unload the car - or pump them up when loading."

As long as you're within the 'operating range' of tire pressure for the vehicle, the main effect in over/under inflating the tires for the load is a drop in handling and MPG (or K/l, for you metric types), and the difference between the top of the range and the bottom is usually minimal, especially if you're of a decent road surface, such as pavement.

If you're going to be driving on the dandy dunes, a lower pressure will help the tires to grip the sand instead of just digging a hole where they sit, but for the most part, 'driving on pavement' pressure should be good enough for typical commuting and cargo hauling. Now if you're doing something atypical, such as a Gran Prix, you might want your pit crew to adjust the tire pressure at every pit stop for Absolute Best Handling.

Not only that, but you will use nitrogen inflation instead of air, as this apparently helps the tires run cooler. Helium might be best, but then the pit crew would sound like Donald Duck, and it is also pretty dog gone expensive.

Do you realize that "air" is already 80% Nitrogen and "nitrogen air" is only about 90% Nitrogen? You will pay for another 10% Nitrogen in a tire with a rubber barrier inside? Why not get "organic" Nitrogen and pay even more? Better yet, get "Gluten free" Nitrogen or "fat free"??

Wayne: No. You are full of bull. Nitrogen in racing tires makes a huge difference in heat build up. Now take your lesson and move on.

Airgas Part #:NI 80 Gas Component 1 Type
% NITROGEN
Gas Component 1 Amount
100.0000000
Gas Grade 1
INDUSTRIAL

How many people who pay extra for nitrogen are driving at 200 MPH on the highways? I was not referring to racing use. That is a different category of driving dynamics.

You obviously haven't driven on the German Autobahns lately!!

Nitrogen makes a difference in racing car tire pressure change due to the lack of oxygen and water (vapor and liquid) inside the tire. The idea is two fold. First, prevent flame-less internal combustion making more gaseous compounds in the tire which raises the pressure. Second prevent moisture phase stage changes as temperature changes with pressure and temperature. This seems a plausible idea, particularly since many low profile racing tires have such a small volume of gas. However,

Call me silly, but I'm confused on a few things:

How do you get 'flameless internal combustion' inside a tire?

How does 'flameless internal combustion' produce more gases than already exist within the sealed tire environment?

How does water vapor go into a phase state change as the temperature rises? it is already a gas, what state can it change into inside a tire? Does it get hot enough in there for water vapor to become a plasma? And wouldn't the tire go through a phase state change before that, turning into a liquid, or combusting from the heat?

FIC results when morons people use starter fluid ether and a cigarette lighter to simultaneously bead and inflate a tire on their personal redneck transport, except that is not flameless, nor is it entirely internal. Perhaps FIC refers to slow oxidation of rubber and/or compressor oil mist within the inflated tire?

I remember patching a tire tube then inserting it into the tire and overinflating it to seal the bead. The excess patching gunk caught fire inside the tire (we had used the "flame" method with lighter fluid to quick vulcanize the patch) and the entire wheel shot staight up into the air between us and landed on the top of the garage roof. After we changed our underwear we realized if we had done that inside the garage we still would be paying the owner damages for years. Watch This! was our motto.

I forgot to mention we used gear lube to lubricate the bead before installing the tire and tube into the wheel. That may have contributed to the explosion. We never found the tube, it seems to have been obliterated by the explosion!

Do you prefer the term "smoldering"? How does one get all of that expanding gas to appear behind a bullet? The bullet example is grossly inaccurate because that uses a solid oxidizer but any internal self heating from burning any powders inside the tire will contribute. Not having any oxidizer means no combustion.

"any internal self heating from burning any powders inside the tire will contribute."

This is information you had not supplied before, reducing the oxygen content makes sense in that case.

Some racing wheels also have 2 valves, one to fill & 1 to extract so that they can completely purge all of the ambient air out when filling with dry nitrogen.

Shhh, not so loud, you'll upset the snake oil salesmen. They're busy trying to separate the gullible from their hard-earned money.

Thanks for that! It's nice to know I'm more-or-less on the right track. Thanks.

I disagree.

I tow a heavy caravan several times a year, with the car relatively full as well....plus occasionally cars on a trailer weighing up to around 2.5 tons (metric). You have to have your wits about you!!

I usually drive about 20 Kms, then stop and check the tyre temperatures all round with the back of my hand. If one is a bit low on pressure, or more loaded, it is obviously warmer than the others.

My personal limit (well within the constraints of a modern tyre I believe) is that no tyre should run warmer than me!!

So not over 39°C (98.4°F)....if it is, I put some air in.....

I will check it again when we stop for a coffee say 2 hours later, it only takes about 30 seconds to check all 8 tyres.

Furthermore, I could pick up a nail or similar while driving!! That could let air out slowly.....

I will agree that my temps are probably erring on the safe side.....but is that not what a careful driver does.....?

I was completely unable to find a website that could give a maximum working temperature for ANY tyres, let alone for normal cars. So its really just guesswork at best!

I know F1 tyres run hot, but they get changed every 50 Kms or so, so not much of a yardstick for private cars!!!

When you say 'check' does that mean visual looking for a 'flat, or more accurate with a tyre gauge? - and with a pump if necessary.

If I set off on a long journey, holiday etc, occasionally, then I check pressures and pump up tyres correctly. And check for temperature by touch, when we stop. The latter touch test might also warn of brakes binding.

But day-to-day locally, only the odd 'kick' looking for a flat'. We don't go out much nowadays.

How is your hearing these days? Truckers will tap the tires with a wood stick and listen for the same sound or ring from the tire to detect a low one. I would bet on the side of higher pressure because heat build-up destroys more tires than overinflation in my experience. Has anyone out there ever heard of a tire popping off the rim from too much pressure? Only when not properly matched to the wheel do tires pop off. It is really hard to get tires on and off properly matched wheels.

The only "visual check" I do when driving (I do a more intensive one BEFORE hitting the road!) is "where are the tyres basically?"

I simply use the back of my hand to check tyre temperature, it should not feel warmer than my hand. Its that simple. my opinion only.

As I mentioned yesterday, I was unable to find a chart with maximum allowed temperatures for car tyres, which is moot anyway, as I don't have a thermometer in the car either.

But if the tyre feels hot to touch, my thoughts are "WARNING!!!"...... It seldom happens to me if its my own trailer, but it can (has!) happen with ones from other people or companies....

If a tyre has too little pressure for the load it is carrying, its a fairly well known fact that it will dramatically increase its temperature. Possibly to a dangerous level.....

In fact, I could not think of a problem with a tyre (assuming tread is not worn) that does not involve air loss and increased temperature!

I am sure there are some, but the nearest I could think of was a screw or a nail, lodged in the tread, that has formed a good seal, so no air loss. But when driving at high speed, the offending object gets thrown out, allowing air to be lost.

I have had nails and screws in tyres over the years (not that many, maybe 4 or 5), but have noticed them and I have simply got the tyre repaired or even replaced if the wear left was not enough to warrant the repair costs.....but with me, it was generally a good tyre with little wear.

I have also had to replace two tyres where damage has occurred on the "shoulder". Such shoulder/sidewall damage is illegal to repair here.....both were fairly new at the time! GRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!

But not both at the same time I hasten to add, not even on the same car!!

Its up to everyone to look after their tyres, how they do it is their own business, I have simply outlined my method, in use over many years. I am happy with it, others may not be!!

I am hoping that some here can offer some better sensible ideas that one can easily use on a journey....

In 1999, I bought a secondhand caravan, with four good tyres (I thought just looking at them! Good tread and a good appearance, no nails!). I checked the pressures and found them to be low (my opinion only, I like trailers to have their maximum "loaded" pressures). I pumped them up.

It was a really cold day and we were going to Cologne to meet up with the German side of the family and visit the "Fashing" street parades (Mardi Gras). It was sunny, but bitterly cold, day temps of between -15 to -20°C. February I believe.....

Just before our exit, the front left trailer tyre exploded, as if there was a small bomb in it. The tyre was completely shredded. I have never seen anything like it. I was lucky it did not damage the 'van!! Of course I had a spare, brand new, it was a fiddle to fit and of course it was the side where the lorries were passing close to my back, really not funny.

The tyre company I used to get 4 new tyres the following week, having looked at the wheel/carcase, told me that the previous owner, having either run too heavily loaded, or too low pressures of even both. This had over several journeys, as far as they could tell, progressively "cooked" the tyres, drying them out (the words of the mechanic!), and they simply disintegrated.

The rubber left was rock hard and did not flex properly....it simply broke into powder!! Not that there was much rubber left!! I had pictures, but cannot find them today.....

The "accident" could have been worse, if for example, the caravan had been a single axle version I feel, but the second tyre on the same side kept the 'van really stable.

I just saw this "cloud" of rubber dust in the rear view mirror as the 'van settled a few inches lower on the offside.

With hind sight, I should have driven the extra mile and got off the autobahn before changing the wheel, driving slowly of course.....you live and learn.....with hindsight we are all really clever!!!

I hope that I have answered you well, but if not, let me know.....

One time, I was driving along taking a water sample across town for testing we did not have capability for in my lab. I was driving adjacent to a large field owned by the local cotton oil mill, and the nearest people/equipment were about 1/3 mile away. Abruptly, I heard a loud bang, thought I was shot (I always think that), and realized it was a tire "blow-out". I pulled over, got out, and found the back passenger side (nearest the oil mill) was flat. On further inspection, there was a roundish hole, with a three inch gash cut right through it, more or less parallel with the radius of the tire (on the side wall).

It did have the appearance of a bullet entrance. Years later, traveling south in I-27 here in Lubbock, another bang, this time my driver side window shattered and fell out. I looked around after I stopped, call the police (sure I had been fired upon), then started looking around, and saw a trucker on the northbound side of the interstate, working load tarpaulins, and "bungee cords", he apparently was "flapping out a tarp" when a bungee cord snagged, and slingshot its way to my window. I think it was only the "S" hook, not the entire cord.

When the airport fire trucks used more "normal" tires than they use now, there were grader tires and other off road tires in the same size. (23.5 R 25 I think) there was a maximum speed they were rated for. Most earth moving equipment would never see 35 MPH. Airport fire trucks had to be able to maintain a prolonged speed of 65 MPH. Choice of tire design was critical. But Michelin's guide had it all listed. Goodyear also had max speed figures in it' specialty tire guides.

Good to know, but not helpful for me as a car and caravan owner really......but thanks for posting. It still adds to our general knowledge here.

Now if you could find a document that proposes maximum temperatures for car tyres, I may even consider buying a cheap IR thermometer for tyre checking....it will help me to keep my hands clean on the road!!

I found nothing useful on the web about max allowed temperatures......

But in the end, it really cannot make a big difference as I don't want to run anywhere near the max temperature allowed anyway!!!

I would guess that nobody does.....

Conversely, I agree with anyone who says that a really cold tyre may not grip as well as one with some temperature in it, though I have no facts and figures to prove that either way.

Possibly a lower pressure for winter tyres may be beneficial?

Summer tyres here are often not as good with grip, even on dry roads, when the air temperature goes under +4°C.....Bridgestone for example in my limited experience....though they make good summer tyres, for warmer days....

Andy, it's me again. Thanks for the feedback.

Re your comment about cold tyres having less grip. I can't give any figures either, but as a TV observer of Formula 1 racing, it is well known that hot tyres are better, and very important, considering the lengths they go in the pits with pre-heaters.

Whist on about car racing - "what's the difference between a Formula 1 tyre and 12 months of wine, women and song".

None!

They're both Goodyears! Boom! boom!

LOL!!

Thanks for the comments!

I know there are speed limit ratings, but I haven't given it much thought before. I buy tyres 'approved' and 'recommended' by the manufactures and garage.

What has the speed to do with use? Is it a centrifugal issue (will the rubber de-laminate from the tread?) or a burst issue (crashing at 30 mph is less serious than crashing at 90 mph) - a braking issue - that sort of thing - or what? -just curious.

You surprise me with your low-tech solution (although it works just fine for you, and many others). A cheap laser pointer infrared thermometer might remove any subjectivity on days that are near your body temperature. That is all I have to say about that.

You misunderstand the gravity here. What's right for Andy is right for every human being in every climate from now until eternity.

Here comes that sarcastic rectal orifice AP#1 again trying to get me to bite. Sharks bite
! I smell blood in the water.

Does AP stand for "Anal Poster" maybe?

He knows who he is, and he knows what he is, a cowardly, spineless w@nker!!!

No The 'p' stands for 'probe'.

LOL!!

Really good, thanks.

Yes, all I need today is another A.P.! I think I need to go to that tattoo parlor and get the one on my lower back stating: "EXIT ONLY"

Just to be sure!!!!!

LOL!!!

I understand what you mean exactly.

My method is not exact, but it sort of adapts itself to different loads, pressures and temperatures rather well, and well inside any possible safety limits....also it has helped me over very many years.

I can honestly say that I have never lost a tyre from overheating that I have bought new and had installed, only that one from a 2nd hand caravan, that I had bought a few weeks previously to the tyre failing.....

I scrapped the other three on the caravan as soon as I got back home the following week. Too dangerous to risk....

Ah, you are using the Engineer 'monitor the system and make adjustments as needed throughout the trip' style of tire inflation. And with the loads you're pulling around, that level of detail makes perfect sense.

People who ask "What pressure should I use for my tires? The Tire says one thing, the sticker inside the door frame says another." are using the 'fill and forget' method, as in 'fill up the tires, and then forget that they require monitoring.' Those people are asking for, need, and can only understand a 'general use number.' They're not chasing 'optimal' or 'best,' they're happy with 'eh, good enough.' They want to check their tires at the start of a road trip or vacation and not think about them again until they get back home.

To paraphrase an old saying, "You can lead a man to answers, but you can't make him think."

I try and remember to stop for 10 minutes or so every 2-3 hours.

The check takes only seconds.....night or day.....

The peace of mind it brings is well worth it, though I never buy cheap or 2nd quality tyres anyway.

It keeps me busy!!

You have sort of summed me up - 'fit-and-forget' - that would be nice. Good enough suits me.

I nit pick at detail during the decision logic stage to reach an answer - but at some point I have to accept that - and trust to luck that everything remains the 'same' throughout the journey.

No one has mentioned yet the importance of 'equai' pressures in tyres. I know front and rear differ but pairs of tyres should be equal.

And what about accuracy of gauges at filling stations. I use a pocket gauge to check - but even that is no more correct than a 'best guess' reading between marks on a crude scale.

The precision of all this logic is fine in theory but we usually have to settle for 'near enough' - and hope for the best - such is life.